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PS3 YLOD

This discussion thread has 19 messages.

#1
Hi all, maybe someone around can help me. I am getting this ylod when I try to switch on my ps3, its been happening for quite some time now, then after a couple of tries it does boot, and then when the system boots it works with no problems. Sometimes I have to try like 10 times however, with the yellow light and then the blinking red led. I was going to try the reflow method, now what you guys think? is it best to do it now that the problem did not get that deep (my ps3 manages to switch on somehow), wait until system is completely dead? or even if the system manages to boot it is not a problem from the gpu/cpu lead connections? I thank you in advance for your advices. Thanks
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#2
The YLOD is caused by extreme heat on the GPU which eventually breaks its connection to the motherboard which results in the YLOD.

In your case, the system is pretty much on the verge of completely failing. Soon, it wont boot at all. The reason most users get YLOD is because the stock thermal paste Sony uses isnt the best when building the PS3s, it dries out after about 2 years leaving the GPU and CPU bone dry. Most people don't realize how fast this stuff dries off, so they keep playing PS3, leaving it on for hours, overnight, movies,etc. So the best way to PREVENT YLOD is to open the PS3 up down to the mobo, and clean off the old thermal paste, and apply new thermal paste. I am actually going to be doing this this weekend.

In your case, you would probably need to take a head gun, and gently heat the GPU back down to the board, once it cools back down, clean it off, and apply new thermal paste. This would be your only hope to save the console yourself without spending big bucks.

I recommend using Artic Silver 5. Since, I can't post links on here, I am going to message you a link to the AS5, and a link to a good video to follow to take apart and put back together the PS3
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 03 Jan 2013 @ 13:19
#3
arctic silver 5 is recommended on many websites its only let down is that it is electrically conductive so if some goes on the chip legs youve had it.
The thing abot the ylod that I am getting is that if system manages to boot it continue running for hours woithout problems so I was thinking maybe it is not the gpu after all. maybe power supply? My question is if it is better to tackle it now or wait until intervention is inevitable?maybe it stays this way?
#4
Originally posted by rod905:
arctic silver 5 is recommended on many websites its only let down is that it is electrically conductive so if some goes on the chip legs youve had it.
The thing abot the ylod that I am getting is that if system manages to boot it continue running for hours woithout problems so I was thinking maybe it is not the gpu after all. maybe power supply? My question is if it is better to tackle it now or wait until intervention is inevitable?maybe it stays this way?
It could be, but I don't think the PSU would throw a yellow light upon boot.If anything, it just wouldn't power the unit.
#5
Originally posted by NY11725:
Originally posted by rod905:
arctic silver 5 is recommended on many websites its only let down is that it is electrically conductive so if some goes on the chip legs youve had it.
The thing abot the ylod that I am getting is that if system manages to boot it continue running for hours woithout problems so I was thinking maybe it is not the gpu after all. maybe power supply? My question is if it is better to tackle it now or wait until intervention is inevitable?maybe it stays this way?
It could be, but I don't think the PSU would throw a yellow light upon boot.If anything, it just wouldn't power the unit.
I read somewhere that yellow light indicates a hardware failure. psu WOULD BE a hardware failure eh?
#6
Originally posted by rod905:
Originally posted by NY11725:
Originally posted by rod905:
arctic silver 5 is recommended on many websites its only let down is that it is electrically conductive so if some goes on the chip legs youve had it.
The thing abot the ylod that I am getting is that if system manages to boot it continue running for hours woithout problems so I was thinking maybe it is not the gpu after all. maybe power supply? My question is if it is better to tackle it now or wait until intervention is inevitable?maybe it stays this way?
It could be, but I don't think the PSU would throw a yellow light upon boot.If anything, it just wouldn't power the unit.
I read somewhere that yellow light indicates a hardware failure. psu WOULD BE a hardware failure eh?
Seems you don't really appreciate my input after I took the time to register just to be able to try to help you out. Take Care
#7
Originally posted by NY11725:
Originally posted by rod905:
Originally posted by NY11725:
Originally posted by rod905:
arctic silver 5 is recommended on many websites its only let down is that it is electrically conductive so if some goes on the chip legs youve had it.
The thing abot the ylod that I am getting is that if system manages to boot it continue running for hours woithout problems so I was thinking maybe it is not the gpu after all. maybe power supply? My question is if it is better to tackle it now or wait until intervention is inevitable?maybe it stays this way?
It could be, but I don't think the PSU would throw a yellow light upon boot.If anything, it just wouldn't power the unit.
I read somewhere that yellow light indicates a hardware failure. psu WOULD BE a hardware failure eh?
Seems you don't really appreciate my input after I took the time to register just to be able to try to help you out. Take Care
To the contrary I AM grateful for your input and thank you here publicly. I am aware that you have nothing to gain from giving me advice, and are doing this just out of your kindness.

Thanks again, and sorry if I might have offended you. Rest assured that it was not intentional
#8
Originally posted by NY11725:
The YLOD is caused by extreme heat on the GPU which eventually breaks its connection to the motherboard which results in the YLOD.

In your case, the system is pretty much on the verge of completely failing. Soon, it wont boot at all. The reason most users get YLOD is because the stock thermal paste Sony uses isnt the best when building the PS3s, it dries out after about 2 years leaving the GPU and CPU bone dry. Most people don't realize how fast this stuff dries off, so they keep playing PS3, leaving it on for hours, overnight, movies,etc. So the best way to PREVENT YLOD is to open the PS3 up down to the mobo, and clean off the old thermal paste, and apply new thermal paste. I am actually going to be doing this this weekend.


Actually, that is wrong. The YLOD is a general signal for hardware failure, but most YLODs are caused by the unleaded solder Sony used for the PS3 to meet some requirements by the European Union.
As we all know from physics lessons at school, most materials expand when getting warm and contract when getting cold. Same happens to the solder in the PS3. This causes microcracks in the connections, and when there are too many microcracks in these connections, they don't work anymore. With the reflow method you close down some of these microcracks, making the console work again. The problem with this method is that you dry out the solder, which makes it even more likely to crack, therefore some people apply flux before reflowing. Anyhow, normally this isn't a permanent fix.

Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
#9
Originally posted by Eisherz:
Originally posted by NY11725:
The YLOD is caused by extreme heat on the GPU which eventually breaks its connection to the motherboard which results in the YLOD.

In your case, the system is pretty much on the verge of completely failing. Soon, it wont boot at all. The reason most users get YLOD is because the stock thermal paste Sony uses isnt the best when building the PS3s, it dries out after about 2 years leaving the GPU and CPU bone dry. Most people don't realize how fast this stuff dries off, so they keep playing PS3, leaving it on for hours, overnight, movies,etc. So the best way to PREVENT YLOD is to open the PS3 up down to the mobo, and clean off the old thermal paste, and apply new thermal paste. I am actually going to be doing this this weekend.


Actually, that is wrong. The YLOD is a general signal for hardware failure, but most YLODs are caused by the unleaded solder Sony used for the PS3 to meet some requirements by the European Union.
As we all know from physics lessons at school, most materials expand when getting warm and contract when getting cold. Same happens to the solder in the PS3. This causes microcracks in the connections, and when there are too many microcracks in these connections, they don't work anymore. With the reflow method you close down some of these microcracks, making the console work again. The problem with this method is that you dry out the solder, which makes it even more likely to crack, therefore some people apply flux before reflowing. Anyhow, normally this isn't a permanent fix.
Yes, but none of that happens until the thermal paste on the chips get bone dry. Cleaning off the stock paste, and applying a better paste will prevent it from ever getting that dramatic.
#10
Originally posted by Eisherz:
Originally posted by NY11725:
The YLOD is caused by extreme heat on the GPU which eventually breaks its connection to the motherboard which results in the YLOD.

In your case, the system is pretty much on the verge of completely failing. Soon, it wont boot at all. The reason most users get YLOD is because the stock thermal paste Sony uses isnt the best when building the PS3s, it dries out after about 2 years leaving the GPU and CPU bone dry. Most people don't realize how fast this stuff dries off, so they keep playing PS3, leaving it on for hours, overnight, movies,etc. So the best way to PREVENT YLOD is to open the PS3 up down to the mobo, and clean off the old thermal paste, and apply new thermal paste. I am actually going to be doing this this weekend.


Actually, that is wrong. The YLOD is a general signal for hardware failure, but most YLODs are caused by the unleaded solder Sony used for the PS3 to meet some requirements by the European Union.
As we all know from physics lessons at school, most materials expand when getting warm and contract when getting cold. Same happens to the solder in the PS3. This causes microcracks in the connections, and when there are too many microcracks in these connections, they don't work anymore. With the reflow method you close down some of these microcracks, making the console work again. The problem with this method is that you dry out the solder, which makes it even more likely to crack, therefore some people apply flux before reflowing. Anyhow, normally this isn't a permanent fix.
Hi Eisherz,so what would you advice? reflow now, or wait till the system deteriorates further? please note that if the system manages to start it will continue running without problems (maybe because its winter). I was thinking along the lines of NY11725 to tell the truth, and thinking about maybe improving the cooling system. If you improve the cooling system and the sysem does never get hot again maybe the reflow work would hold.

Anyway, (1)being a problem only at startup (I know that more than 90% of cases is GPU)do you think that it might not be the motherboard? and (2)what would you do if you were me leave everything as it is? I need system to run at least until the ps4 comes out and preferably around 6months into its launch(supposed to be this year from what I heard) I am definitely not buying a new PS3 with a new one coming out.Thanks a lot

PS NY11725 I hope you are alright mate and we are still friends
#11
Originally posted by rod905:
Originally posted by Eisherz:
Originally posted by NY11725:
The YLOD is caused by extreme heat on the GPU which eventually breaks its connection to the motherboard which results in the YLOD.

In your case, the system is pretty much on the verge of completely failing. Soon, it wont boot at all. The reason most users get YLOD is because the stock thermal paste Sony uses isnt the best when building the PS3s, it dries out after about 2 years leaving the GPU and CPU bone dry. Most people don't realize how fast this stuff dries off, so they keep playing PS3, leaving it on for hours, overnight, movies,etc. So the best way to PREVENT YLOD is to open the PS3 up down to the mobo, and clean off the old thermal paste, and apply new thermal paste. I am actually going to be doing this this weekend.


Actually, that is wrong. The YLOD is a general signal for hardware failure, but most YLODs are caused by the unleaded solder Sony used for the PS3 to meet some requirements by the European Union.
As we all know from physics lessons at school, most materials expand when getting warm and contract when getting cold. Same happens to the solder in the PS3. This causes microcracks in the connections, and when there are too many microcracks in these connections, they don't work anymore. With the reflow method you close down some of these microcracks, making the console work again. The problem with this method is that you dry out the solder, which makes it even more likely to crack, therefore some people apply flux before reflowing. Anyhow, normally this isn't a permanent fix.
Hi Eisherz,so what would you advice? reflow now, or wait till the system deteriorates further? please note that if the system manages to start it will continue running without problems (maybe because its winter). I was thinking along the lines of NY11725 to tell the truth, and thinking about maybe improving the cooling system. If you improve the cooling system and the sysem does never get hot again maybe the reflow work would hold.

Anyway, (1)being a problem only at startup (I know that more than 90% of cases is GPU)do you think that it might not be the motherboard? and (2)what would you do if you were me leave everything as it is? I need system to run at least until the ps4 comes out and preferably around 6months into its launch(supposed to be this year from what I heard) I am definitely not buying a new PS3 with a new one coming out.Thanks a lot

PS NY11725 I hope you are alright mate and we are still friends
Of Course
#12
I personally wouldn't reflow it, instead I would put it in the oven.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S5MPjssRYs
If you do that, remove the CMOS battery, it can blow up (actually happened to me once). I had the experience that the fix lasted longer that way than by doing a reflow, atleast on my Xbox 360s. I still have my old 60 Gig former YLOD now reflowed PS3:
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-285...913152/#5561464
It's still working, even though I don't use it that much that often, because I have a slim. It's been one year and a half since I reflowed it, and by the way, I didn't exchange the thermal paste between the cpu/gpu and the metal plates covering them.

Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
#13
Originally posted by Eisherz:
I personally wouldn't reflow it, instead I would put it in the oven.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S5MPjssRYs
If you do that, remove the CMOS battery, it can blow up (actually happened to me once). I had the experience that the fix lasted longer that way than by doing a reflow, atleast on my Xbox 360s. I still have my old 60 Gig former YLOD now reflowed PS3:
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-285...913152/#5561464
It's still working, even though I don't use it that much that often, because I have a slim. It's been one year and a half since I reflowed it, and by the way, I didn't exchange the thermal paste between the cpu/gpu and the metal plates covering them.
If you had it opened to reflow it, it would of been a very wise idea to exchange the paste. You may want to go ahead and do that now. Reflowing won't last at all if the chips are still bone dry, and the heatsync isn't doing its job.
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 06 Jan 2013 @ 13:47
#14
I would neither reflow nor put it in an oven. I discovered that there are stencil kits to reball the processor. I will take off the proccessor and reball it with lead solder. cheers to all
#15
Originally posted by rod905:
I would neither reflow nor put it in an oven. I discovered that there are stencil kits to reball the processor. I will take off the proccessor and reball it with lead solder. cheers to all
If you are really able to do that, that is actually the best solution. Do you have a reballing station?

Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
#16
there are stencils, I will use a heatgun to fuse the solder. will make a stand to keep it still
#17
Even with a reball station you have a success rate of about 50%, so I am pretty sure your attempt won't work. Not sure you can get the solder hot enough with a heatgun to completely melt it without permanently damaging the CPU and the GPU either.

Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
#18
the heatgun has a temp of 300 deg. reflow methods suggest 350 degrees. solder melt at 180 degrees.why shouldn't it work?however my big question is why after my ps boots there are no problems? I formatted the drive today just in case. Will check toorrow
#19
You'll have a temperature of (less than) 300 degree on the surface of the chips, the solder is under them, so to melt them it means that under the chips you'd need to have 180 degree. Plus you are way too inacurate that way.

Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
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