Originally posted by Nick1981:

---

I was wondering, we all know a NTSC ps3 can't play pal content, but has anyone with a swap switch loaded a ntsc dvd and then swapped for a pal to see if it would play? I want my Iron Man region 2 cartoon dvd's to be upscaled, but I can't play pal content.

---

What you could do it rip it and re-encode it onto another disk using dvdshrink or something similar.

just a quick question:
If you ever wanted to undo this mod and return the ps3 to original functionality would you just unsolder the wires from the motor and plug in the blu-ray sensor? Or is there more work involved when returning the ps3 to factory state?

You would just follow the same steps in reverse.

Originally posted by canuckerz:

---

You would just follow the same steps in reverse.

---

If your original button didnt died like mine did (cause I didnt cut original wires that go to motor) then its easy to return to original.

Does anyone knows if Final Fantasy XI will work with this method? I know it'll work, I mean if it will connect to the servers [using US version on a Jap PS3]? Won't be there any DNAS or region problems? I wanted to get FFXI but I wanted to make sure first. And the Jap version won't do good cause I'm not that good in Japanese :P
Thanks in advance.

Hi,
is it possible to use this :




In red there are PNP transistor.
SW is the switch.
Thanks

Someone needs to make a video on how to install it.

A buddy of mine has a blu-ray burner in his laptop. I'll try to get him to make a copy of a blu-ray game. I'm not ready to crack open my PS3 yet but I'm willing to pay for the blu-ray disk and mail it to someone with this mod if they pay the shipping. I wouldn't imagine that it would be very much on a single disk. When I have a backup I'll come back and let you guys know.

Originally posted by MasterHan:

---

A buddy of mine has a blu-ray burner in his laptop. I'll try to get him to make a copy of a blu-ray game. I'm not ready to crack open my PS3 yet but I'm willing to pay for the blu-ray disk and mail it to someone with this mod if they pay the shipping. I wouldn't imagine that it would be very much on a single disk. When I have a backup I'll come back and let you guys know.

---

It would be interesting to test a blueray backup using the swap method.
I can make the test if you want (with your backup because I don't have a blueray burner).
I'm going to install the new swap system that I posted before (using only one switch and disabling the controller and the sensor at the same time).
If it works, i'll post a video.

ps: Sorry for my english, i'm french.

Ok Im getting ready to do the mod after waiting a while so more people input their experiences/knowledge, Ive read majority of the posts here (no easy task) and have a few questions if someone is willing to answer I would appreciate it.

First I would like to say I will be doing the 1 switch installation, so base all my questions off of that please.

1. The 2 wires originally connected to the drive, I am told you do not need to cut them, just cover the sensor, but then others that did not disconnect/cut them are having problems. Instead of cutting them, can I just de-solder them? Also what are they connected to? AKA what is supplying the original power to the drive? Couldnt you just keep those wires connected and disconnect them from the power source, and use the same wires already connected to the drive to connect it to your own power source?

Also about that, If you cut them, should you just leave them in place? or do you need to cover them with something so that you dont just have loose power floating around in the PS3. Nobody has really touched on this. Also what would be a good way to cover/conceal them safely.


2. I will be using an AC to DC power source to connect to the drive. The one I have is the same as the original poster 3-12 volts selectable, but it is 1A (1000mA), and I saw somewhere that you do not want to go over 300 mA. Is it not safe for me to use the one I have? Also would a smaller amperage work just as well as a 300 mA? What I mean by that is, could I use a 100mA set at 3V and still get the same response for the drive?

3. Ok so you disconnect the wires from the drive, and then solder your own wires to the drive and connect them to pin 4 and 1, but which wire from which pin goes to which slot on the drive? What I am meaning is, you know how the drive has a black wire, and a red wire originally, Im assuming red = Positive black = negative, does it matter if I connect Pin 1 to red, or pin 1 to black etc? If it does, which pin should be connected to which wire? I am assuming it doesnt matter, it would just have a reverse effect on your pins if you swapped them, like instead of UP on the switch sucking it in, it would spit it out.

4. Ok, also I read a few things about some switch that needs to be out if no disc is in, and in if there is a disc in, and to ensure that is in the right position after raising the thing with 3 screws that you run your wire underneath, can somoene please get me a picture of this and circle it with an explination of this? It confuses me slightly.

5. Looking at a drawing of the switch > motor connection it had pin 5 to positive of the drive, pin 2 to negative on the drive, yet the person's switch was drawn incorrectly, what I mean by that is instead of it

LIKE THIS IT Was Like this
1 4 6 3
2 5 5 2
3 6 4 1

And he had the wires connected 5 positive 2 negative, I know its just flipped upside down, but if I am using the switch the other way, should it not be like my original? Someone please explain or try to thanks



Also, is there a ribbon you leave un-attached? Or do you re-connect it when closing up your ps2, that was never touched on by anyone. Thanks in advance everyone.

Oh yeah almost forgot,

About the wire, is any wire ok? Do you need a certain gauged wire? I have 18 Gauge 300 Volt stranded wire. Not sure if that will make a difference.

Ok also, can someone link me to the thread explaining how to do the method where you just leave your PS3 opened/cut a hole in the top? I would like to look at this method too, The multi-switch install seems a little too complex for me, and the single switch is something I dont really like, as I would have to manually put in and take out anything i ever want to put in the ps3 ever ;/

Also it is Type: AWM 18 Guage stranded 1/64" PVC Rated 300 volts


Also does this work with most current firmware? 2.3

Originally posted by SpankyyJ:

---

Ok also, can someone link me to the thread explaining how to do the method where you just leave your PS3 opened/cut a hole in the top? I would like to look at this method too, The multi-switch install seems a little too complex for me, and the single switch is something I dont really like, as I would have to manually put in and take out anything i ever want to put in the ps3 ever ;/

Also it is Type: AWM 18 Guage stranded 1/64" PVC Rated 300 volts


Also does this work with most current firmware? 2.3

---

The wire voltage is about 3 Volts.

You don't need to put the disc manually with the single switch modd, your PS3 works like an original PS3 until you push the switch (up or down). (see my previous post)

Explanations:
- When you push the switch, the 3 PNP transistors are in Hi-Z state and the power is send to the motor.
- otherwise the 3 PNP transistors are in passing mode so that the PS3's like there was no modd (like an original ps3).

The resistor can be changed in order to reduce or increase the voltage.

I don't think that sony will patch the modd because it's using the ps2 security system (like any ps2).
Sony is no more interested about ps2 games for the ps3 (the 60Gb and 20gb are out of production).

Originally posted by mcoco:

---

You don't need to put the disc manually with the single switch modd, your PS3 works like an original PS3 until you push the switch (up or down). (see my previous post)

---

When you dont cut the original wires to the motor your ps3 can still suck in and out discs by just pressing eject button.
I dont recommend not to cut the wires. I didnt cut them and now my original eject and suck in function is broken. (happened to more people who didnt cut original wires). When you have cut the orig wires to motor you just have to press eject on ps3 and use your switch to eject.

2: It is best to use batteries, place 3 batteries is batterie holder and you dont have to put the adapter in the socket everytime you want to switch.

3: Doesnt matter where you put red and where black, cause what the switch actually does is switching between black-red and red-black (if + is on other side of motor the motor turns other way to eject instead of suck in).

Yes, the wire is cut (using the transistors) when you manually insert the disc (with the switch).
But when the switch isn't press the wire is uncut.

It takes the advantage of the two systems.

ok what about the guage of my wire or the amp rating? I dont want to use a battery thing, just dont like the idea of it, ive seen too many problems come from batteries doing things not normally intended for them to do.

Hey everyone, I followed this thread months ago. I was contemplating weather or not I was going to do this... mainly because my ps3 was under warranty still, and I didn't like the idea of messing with the original functionality, plus the unsightliness of wires and project boxes coming out of your ps3. Hell I don't even like the idea that I had to cut a hole in the bottom of my Wii for my modchip :P.

Basically, I like functionality, and I also like reversibility.

I've done the mod already, but what I did was make it very concealed, and hidden, and also allowed full original functionality. Its also done without any programmed chips, or special hardware.

I modified some usb mini ports from molex.com for this mod, they are able to have 6 points of connection (I will explain this later). I studied the mod before I did anything and found that you would need about 6 wires total in order to have your cake and eat it too (have both the mod and orig. funct.).

I know usb usually has only 4 points of connection, something I discovered was usb mini has 5, I also took in to count the ground, which is the metal area around the usb connector. This gave me 6 points of connection. The female connectors from molex are perfect, I had the most trouble with modifying a male connector. I took a usb large to usb mini cable (same kind used to charge the controllers) and stripped it down until I got myself access to the unused 5th wire connector. Once I got that, everything else was downhill.

I unsoldered the connections to the motor. and cut 1 wire for the sensor, doesn't matter which one. I then soldered 2 of my own wires to the motor and drew them out near the card solts. After that I soldered 2 more wires on the orig. wires that ran to the motor, drew them out near the card slots. After the motor was taken care of I soldered 1 lower gauge wire on one sensor wire, then another wire of the same gauge to the other sensor wire, I drew them both out to the other wires.

Now that all my wires have been ran, while putting the top back on my PS3, I slipped the wires through the small crack that the door for the card reader slots hinges on. I made sure the door could still close and that the wires weren't obstructing anything. once I got it all together, I had a ps3 with 6 wires coming out.

I soldered them to the female usb connector in this fashion

(The wires that originally ran to the motor)
PSr = PS3 orig motor wire red
PSb = PS3 orig motor wire black
(The wires that run to the motor now)
MWr = Motor wire red
MWb = Motor wire black
(The wires that run to the sensor)
SE1 = Sensor wire 1
SE2 = Sensor wire 2

..MWr...PSb...MWb
..\..o.....o.....o../
...\...PSr..SE1../---SE2
....\...o.....o.../
......---------

If you notice the wires in a usb cable are color coordinated:

Red = MWr
Black = MWb
Green = PSb
White = PSr
5th wire = SE1
Metal cover = SE2

Now, on the modified usb male connector, you connect the relative MWr point with the PSr point, the MWb point with the PSb point, and the SE1 point with the SE2 point. You can strip down the connector and house it using some shrinkwrap and some hot glue, I'm sure you can get creative, maybe use some quick hardening plastic compound.

What you're making is basically a dongle, which connects all the points necessary for orig. functionality.

I mentioned before the 5th wire might be hard to get to. I used a razor blade to cut the rubber down to the metal of the connector until I could get in enough to solder a wire to it.

the last step...

Modify another usb mini cable. Since the mod doesn't use the sensor or the orig wires that connect to the motor you dont need to worry about the SE1, SE2, PSr, and PSb wires, this should help since you dont need to dig for a hidden 5th wire. The Red wire should correspond to MWr and black to MWb. These you connect your power/switch box, battery assembly to.

When your done, you should have a system that has a mini usb plug hanging out of it. when in orig. funct. mode the dongle you made is plugged in, when in mod mode, the switch box is plugged in.

Thats it!

I hope I helped... instead of confused anybody. I'm open for input/questions/whatever. I found this way to be very easy, cutting open all the usb cables gave me the wire I needed to perform the mod, and was especially helpful because they were color coordinated by default.

I'm sure this mod could be done with firewire mini cables as well. I think there are more wires in that cable than usb mini.

Great so many people have so many ideas/suggestions tips.. but nobody answers QUESTIONS


What guage wire should you use!
Is anything over 300 ma TOO MUCH? is 1,000 Ma too much?!

Should you use a resister or something?

How do you connect the DC batteries in Parallel so not to double the amperage/voltage, instead of in series.

Sorry but i haven't install the mod yet (I'll get my ps3 in the next days).
My batteries are in serial 3 X 1.5 volts = 4.5 volt so that the negative potential to the transistors is higher as the motor voltage (~3V).
I don't understand the problem about wire because there is only a low voltage and low amperage, you can use small wire and I think it should work. (in doubt you can test the voltage and amperage of the original motor controller)

What exactly is the thing called to use batteries for powering the drive? like what do I go into radio shack and ask for? I want to use something with only 2 AA batteries, do they have pre-configured items where you can attach the wires to it? Or do you have to make it yourself?

Also, how do you know if you connected the batteries in series or paralle?

you want something like this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index....rentPage=family
+
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index....rentPage=family
(wires, this connects to the top of the 2AA battery holder)

I guess 2x AAA would also work OK.
Later,

TSR

2 AAA results as a 2.4 Volts voltage (1,2 Volts each).
Here is the link of an adaptater with 3 AA (at conrad electronics) :
[url=http://www.conrad.fr/adaptateur_3_piles_r6_p_19538_19562_51298][/url]
(it's in french but you can see the picture)
or a cheaper model :[url=http://www.conrad.fr/boitiers_supports_de_piles_p_19538_19562_486586][/url]
If you plan to use only 2.4 volts, you'll need to change the PNP transistors (to find a trigger with a lower voltage) and also the resistances (to allow more power to the motor).
You can sold the wire at the batterie adaptater (without the batteries when soldering, it could explode !).
Batteries are in series (to increase voltage and not amperage).

ps: I'm thinking of a NE555 timer in order to know when the disc is stopped in the drive (5 minutes wait).

Ok just got done doing the mod. PS3 booted fine, I used the 1 switch method, It let me suck it in... and it goes in and then nothing. And it will now not eject the game, it makes the sound like it is going to but it doesnt come out. PS3 does not read the game, it is an original PS3 game. I didnt miss any steps. Anyone got an idea?

weird, I took it apart, and then it sucked the game out... and now it works fine... weird, Im waiting the 10 minutes or whatever now to swap it for a backup to see if that part of it works.