Soldering

Hey there.

Been looking at this stuff for a while. Was wondering if anyone can reccomend any quality tools, and any guides to have a look at? Would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

-Mike

 

There are several guides if you do a google search but I thought these 2 are pretty spot on http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm & http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm I'm not sure what you have planned so I can't tell you the wattage of the solder gun/iron that you need. So you may want to shed some light on that. Wear goggles, a mask and gloves if you can(not that I've ever followed my own advice). Gloves might be hard to wear if you're working with small components. I know the second link say "most irons run from the mains at 240V". In fact if you're only doing a little do-it-yourself project you can get a reasonably priced 110V solder iron. Gas ones are also available and also battery powered cold touch ones can be found for simple light work. Le'me know what your doing and I'll advice you about what to buy. I should let you know that my experience is only with the electrical and battery powered solder irons. Never used gas.

 

It's mainly for soldering in LEDs. And the electrical one's I think.

Thanks.

-Mike

 

Mask, goggles & gloves for soldering? Is the soldering iron powered by a nuclear reactor?!
I was a mech engineer for 17 odd yrs, I never used that stuff when I used oxy-acetylene for braising! Or for when I used the cutting torch or heating nozzle for heating steel! Boy, was the flame warm on my heating nozzle!, or Bessie the burner as I affectionately called her. That thing could empty a 5 foot tall Oxygen cylinder in a few hours!

 

I agree that it sounds like over kill and I've never done it in my over 20 years of doing this, but it is my obligation to dispense good information since the solder is often lead based and as a beginner to soldering the fumes can be irritating.

 

Quickly read this so you know what you’ll need to buy http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_solder.htm
Cold heat solder irons http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6151688 or http://www.starkelectronic.com/whl7670.htm are pretty handy but don’t do as good a job as their plug-in counter parts
Depending on your budget & desire for further use here are your options starting with the cheaper one http://www.tubedepot.com/tl-sp40l.html I’ve have one similar to this(ie 40W) for years. Usually lasts about 3-5 years with repeated mild use in my opinion. A more robust but expensive option is http://www.tubedepot.com/tl-wp35.html but this is 30W. Both will do what you are proposing. Anything between 25-40W, 110V should do it.
You are going to need a means of dissipating heat (ie heat sink). A pair of long nosed pliers or alligator clips will work just fine. All this does is to conduct heat from the solder iron & solder along the heat sink and away from the LED, etc that you’re installing. Once you become comfortable you'll do it fast enough so that you won't need to do this.
A desoldering pump & solder removal wire are not a must have if you’re on a budget but they're a very good investment especially while you’re learning how to solder.
As for the solder you will need a small roll about 0.03 – 0.05 dia and buy solder with activated rosin core eg http://www.wassco.com/was/b44rosfluxso.html This is only a guide and you can buy any cost effective brand.
You can get an all-in-one kit at http://www.prokits.com.tw/english/on_line_cat/vol16/11_kit/p_35.htm but the solder in these is usually of a poor quality and the solder irons are often times inferior especially in the whole package is really cheap.
And ofcourse these which I’ve never used http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1114.html . Benefit is that you can vary the temperature. With my 40W solder iron pencil I’m careful to regulate how long I keep it on the solder, so as not to conduct heat unneccessarily to the circuit board. Suggestion: after the solder iron is hot, uncoil a piece of solder and rest it against the solder iron tip and test how long it takes to melt the solder you have. You can wipe the tip in a piece of say damp sponge(not wet) or thick cloth to clean it off . Don’t go starting a fire Word of advice don’t hold the portion of the solder close to the solder tip with your fingers or you’ll get burned by the time the solder melts. Good Luck

 

Not to prolong the point Ddp but an extraction fan in areas where soldering is done is pretty standard. The whole purpose as you know is to remove the lead based fumes. While the small blow fan will succeed in directing it away from ones face so that it doesn't say burn your eyes, it doesn't extract the fumes from the room and only recirculates it. So one would still be inhaling it. Like I said my suggestion is over-kill but I was only trying to err on the side of caution. It's a judgement call by the user.

 

acid core solder........... yummy !
i do alot of electrical repairs on cars, and some of the soldering is crucial, if not, imperative that it is done correctly or it could be a disaster waiting to happen. i have never attempted to solder anything relating to air bags (restraint systems) or digital cluster, too much liability involved. i have a snap op solder gun, has every tip known to man in that case, cost me about 300 buckc, but that tool has made me $$$ time and time again. paid for itself in about 5 or 6 uses almost. then i have my trusty mini torch, thats a great too for those hard to reach areas and love it for heat shrink tubing, or when i am extremely bored or can't find my lighter, i use it to light my cigarette. hehe !

 

once you get the hang of it soldering is pretty easy...been doing it for years. go with Edsyn or Weller for good irons.

 

@Ddp
I agree that most of the fumes are caused by the rosin which forms the flux but a small percentage of lead and tin are also included in these fumes. Have a look at the following:
http://www.artglassassociation.com/mc/page.do?sitePageId=2379
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg248.pdf
I know that you have a great deal of experience but if you've had the misfortune of seeing the contact dermatitis resulting from soldering you'd be amazed. I presume that Asthma episodes occur more frequently but pretty much it can be triggered by fumes of almost any kind.

@Djscoop
I agree about the weller brand. Infact that's what I recommended to Mik3h.

 

I try not to risk it. Heavy metals in anyones body is not good.

 

Weller is the way to go... I have been soldering on PCB's and cables for close to 30+ years, and have a stereo zoom microscope for them tight spots on surface mount devices. I even used to repair stuff like 1 and 4MB SIMMs. Only way to solder a chip onto one of them was with a heat gun, using flow solder techniques, no place to get your iron tip into. Still have all my equipment, including a Hakko desoldering station, but it doesn't get used as much as it did when I had a repair business.

Raymond

 

whoa ddp! When did you get bumped up to a mod?! Congrats!!! Know those spammers don't stand a chance with your finger on the ban button!

 

the spammers worst nightmare has come true

 

and speaking of spammers... with the new 3 minute delay for newbies, i have not seen very many spammers lately... what a releif !