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what type cdr media should i use with burning audio cds ??

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eek Inactive
can anyone help .. ?
what type of cdr media should i use when burning audio cds ??? thanks
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Normal CD-R discs, but prefer high quality labels. Browse the other threads for tips.

The old school is back. All hail the new !
I hate to disagree, but this is purely from pesonal experience, not research or anything scienctific.

I've found that the newer, CD writers playing any ANY blank CDs do not have problems. I myself would never over pay for a "name brand". I have used Fuji, Office Depot "brandless", Verbatin DataLifePlus or whatever is least expensive and have found no difference.

I have heard dome arguments about some companies being better for reasons of "quality" or something in the chemicals, but I have never seen evidence of the bottom line which is reliability ir life. I myself cannot understand anyone paying more than .50 per blank CD-R.

I could be wrong, but this is from my experience and from experience of others that I personally know.

I'm certainly open on this.

There still exits bad media.Imation media (CMC Magnetics) is an example of low quality even nowadays.Verbatim DataLife Plus should be very high quality and I think that very likely your Fujis are ok too. Dont know about office depot. Also some CD-R writers are better than others.

But the main point for using quality media is the fact that many audio players are less than perfect. Portable players, car jukeboxes, older home players...some of these may require high quality media for good results.

The old school is back. All hail the new !
Thanks for yur comment !!

I tend to thing the the blank CDs that are made for, and have a Office Depot or CompUsa label, etc will tend to be good quality clones of a top brand.

I totally agree with you many audio players are less than perfect. IMHO the newer better quality CD players and burners appear to be less sensitive to brands or types of CDs than when I first used CDs.

Therefore IMHO I feel it is more mportant to take the time to check out the Cd reader and or writer rather than the media.

Sending CDs out for distribution might call for other thoughts, but it seems to be the music companies, etc use cheaper, lower quality media, but probably very expensive euipment to burn. Don't know this, but a thought.

Thanks for your thoughts,

fantasy Suspended due non-functional email address
I also hear (not proof) that silver layer discs are better in audio -- they say it can "reflect" teh laser better, and they say this is why most company made cds are look silver, even other disc s may be cheaper than them.

From my pass experience, I have burnt some pioneer audio discs. They work okay at first, but then the track jumps and something white sticks on the bottom layer. It's terrible and I don't know if it is related to my cd player. (data discs do not have this problem)

Moreover, are there any cd-rws that can be played in cd players? I have tried "LGs" but it don't work.

Since the price differences in between different medias are fairly low, I think it's very wise to use quality media. This could/should result to better longevity too. And how do you know all the players you're going to use disc with - take it to your friend, party, etc.?

This forum is a good place to find suggestions for good media manufacturers and then you can seek the best offers in local stores. For example old 8x Taiyo Yuden made Sonys are available in finnish City Markets for a very nice 5.90EUR/10pcs price.


I personally don't thinks that the dye color of the CD is that significant. Gold/silver phtacaloine discs should have longer lifespan than cyanine disc (bluish). Discs with good and bad playback performace can be found in both genres.

In order to play CD-RWs you need a CD-RW compatible player. On some cases lowering the write speed may help if your player is "on the edge".

The old school is back. All hail the new !
Well I've had a so-so experience with unbrand CD-R's. For instance the unbrand ones that come from Quill (an online office store) typically have 10% of the batch that fails with a buffer underrun, or failure to close the disc using any cd writing software including Nero. When I use quality brand name CD-R's I rarely if ever have any problems.

Your point is excellent. Also, with branded and unbranded or "store brands" unless researched you can't tell whjo made it.

Also, I realize that when I have purchased CDs in the past, usually in spindles of 100 or 50, whatever is on sale, they are usually "store brands" or named brands which are considered good quality by many on this forum.

I did take your last point to heart, in looking for 40X CDs locally, I found the pricing too expensive and 40x was sold in small lots.
So I looked online amd purchase 100 Taiyo Yuden Silver Lacquer 700MB CDR Media , 80 Min. on Spindle, 40X for $30.00. The price difference between the Taiyo Yuden and a less valued brand was .01 per CD.


They say pthalocyanine CDRs last 100 years, gold pthalocyanine 200 years, and cyanine 20 years.

But so far we've found both Cyanine/Pthalocyanine (and maybe Formazan, if Kodak coloured CDRs were made of it), gold and silver CDRs dead after 5 years.

So I wouldn't rely on any of those characteristics for longevity.
Join Halcyon's test for CDR longevity if you're interested :

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