I got this weird problem when I tried adjusting my GC laser pot. So far I've done everything step by step in the modthatcube pot adjusting guide and for some reason, my factory setting of my laser was at 0 ohms. I'm using the RX1KQ setting and have probed the proper points on each side of the adjustment screw. I'm using a RadioShack multimeter that is identical to that of the picture of the multimeter that's featured in the modthatcube guide. There are only 2 differences in the multimeter that I have and the one in the picture. 1. is there is no "Micronta" and 2. the red dial thats used to for leveling out the ohms to 0 is on the left side rather than right on the front of the instrument. MY backups are playing fine and i have only ran into a couple of read errors on 2 of my games, mostly im assuming because of a defect in the disk(s). I use Ritek G04 mini's and have been burning them at 4X. The chip I use is the XenoGC chip, not because it's a cheap alternative, but because I'm not into homebrew and emulators (I have an xbox for that ) I did the soldering job on the chip myself. I was curious just to see what my setting would be so If need be, I could adjust the pot to a recommended range for future DRE problems. I was shocked to see that the factory setting would read at a dead on 0. So I decided to turn it up at 10 ohm increments and it gained little by little. When I finally got to the 1 notch (100 Ohms)and tried to go higher, the needle went straight back to zero. So I gradually brought it back down to 0 like the way it was and put everything back together and it's working just like it did before. Games working, load times the same and still the DRE on the backup that I was having problems reading from before. I'm not sure If I really need to adjust the pot later on, I just wanted to see if anyone had a similar issue and if they had a fix for it. Thanks!
http://www.consoleworkshop.co.uk/Tutorials/GC laser tweak.php Seriously, use a digital multimeter. It helps alot. And I have to post every three mins because I'm a "newbie". Curse my not postingness.
Thanks alot for the post dude. I had no idea that there is a difference between the Digital and Analog multimeters. I tried to be as accurate as possible so that's why I bought the one with the needle. Ill definatly go buy a digital one and check the vaule again. Thanks again!
Any kind of modification to any game system voids the warranty. But there really isn't a way to tell with the gamecube. There werent any breakable sticker seal things on mine.
Indeed. Unlike the PS2 and Xbox, there aren't any warranty seals to indicate that the case has been opened. The only protection it has are those screws.
Just a quick follow up, I used a digital multimeter like TheMango suggested and it worked out great. Maybe the analog ones work fine with older gamecubes, but it didn't for me. I've had mine less than a year. I set it to 180 and it worked for a little while and the DRE's came back in about half an hour of playtime. I took the cube apart and rechecked the pot and it dropped from 180 to 172. So I reset it at 200 and it's been fine since. I'll recheck it again a month from now and see how far it's gone down since so many people suggest that you pretty much have to do it once a month to keep it working good.
