I have a chipped Xbox - Xecuter DUO X2 blue chip (that was) running Slayers Evox, I have a upgraded HDD 40gb - that is not lockable (and I don't really mind as I never need to turn off the modchip for XBL as I don't play it) I have been using my xbox fine ever since it was modded for the past year, I FTP'd a movie and a few XBMC scripts using Flash FXP earlier tonight all was well, just now I turned my xbox on and I get a green screen full of foreign language with a big error code 05, I looked up this error code and it means your HDD is not locked (it never has been as it is not lockable) I also notice when booting up the Microsoft Xbox screen is GREEN not BLUE as if it were chipped, its as if modchip has deleted it's BIOS or something and is not working, I checked for the red light of my modchip on the side and yes it flashes red, can you guys help me out =( I can't boot my xbox nor will it boot Slayers auto disc.

You chip wiring needs looking at. The D0 point is the one to pay attention to.

Cheers man, will do today, is my XBOX chip nailed, like do I need to put a new one in? or just re-solder?

It's only the one point.. The one that is in the middle of the group of pads on the underside of the board that (standard xecuter wires) the grey wire goes to.. If you want the chip enabled all the time you can even ground D0 to the nearby screw ;) D0 voltages :: +5v = M$ bios --- 0v (grounded) = chip bios enabled

I have a version 1.4, AHH the points tiny the size of a needle, is there a alternative D0 point thats not the size of a needle, my solder would solder all the points together and here where I live fine tip solders are not even close to that.. =(

Believe it or not.. That is the larger of the pair. Either via on the end of the track can be used and there is another via on the top of the board, but they are about 1/4 the size of that pad.

Flip, really? =O Errr. lol

for quite a long time I used a needlepoint tip over the existing tip on a large 30 watt iron. Eventually (because the work I was doing became smaller and smaller) I bought one of these. http://www.antex.co.uk/product.asp?strPa...ID=180&P_ID=965

My iron is very similar. Don't for an instant think that bigger is better with soldering irons (even if you have to pay more for a lower powered one), at least when sensitive components are involved.

Seeing as it has been soldered before, you shouldn't have much grief at all with repairing. Just don't yank the wire off the board before resoldering, heat it up to remove it even if mostly loose, clean up the area with solder wick, and trim the old wire back so you have something fresh to work with. If necessary, flux may help with preventing bridging, but generally isn't needed.

Its been a while, but I've always just done the top D0 personally, but then I guess the Xenium chips pretty much force you to. With a fine screwdriver you can VERY gently scratch away the lacquer, and then just pre-tin the point and the wire. At least the top point is fairly isolated so not much chance of bridging, but a lot of people somehow manage to remove the pad or damage the PCB track...

Hi Mick.. the top D0 point is actually a via.. goes through the board to the via at the rear end of the track where the normally used D0 pad is on the underside ;) the via on the other end of the same track is blocked above by a chip. I would always chose a pad rather than a via for connections, not just for the reason there is more to get a bite into.

31 years with a soldering iron.. suppose that makes me time served. These modern points are small.