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Another failed magic V install (black screen)

Discussion in 'PS2' started by sector16, Jan 28, 2004.

  1. sector16

    sector16 Member

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    Just tried to put a magic V into a friends ps2 and guess what? Another failed install so I thought I would come here for help.

    First off, it's a V7 board, the correct chip (regular V), and I have successfully installed a magic 3.1 into my ps2. Install went alright, the scex pad came off the very top so it’s now soldered to the side of the capacitor (same contact point though, can this be soldered to the adjacent black resistor?). Also, T copper pad came off so now it’s soldered directly to the bios ( like MNOP points, I followed the pad to correct pin). I have checked all points with an ohm-meter, none are bridged (some bios points beside each other have a very low resistance, but not zero. Most points (except bios) have electrical tape over/beside them so there is no grounding with metal cover/adjacent metal contacts.

    When I turn the console on, the screen flickers once but stays black, no intro movie/whatever the blue sequence is. I took it apart, checked with a magnifying glass and ohm-meter again, no shorts. I then took the 3.3V off and tried the console again, no luck, still black screen. (Now I was worried). So I then soldered the 3.3 V back on the chip and then something funny happened. The Blue into screen came on but it was shifted down/clipped, it looked like it was a wide-screen movie but clipped. I tried to boot a backup but I got the red ‘insert a valid disc’. Then I tried to put the chip into sleep mode and now the screen always stays black like before, even if I power down and back up again. Because it did start booting that one time, I’m assuming that by assembling/taking the console apart the contact causing the problem was temporarily put in place but that doesn’t explain why it stopped working again after I put the chip in sleep mode.

    Any ideas?
    Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated as it took a lot of reassurance to get him to let me do it (I just wanted the practice as it’s what I’m taking in school (elec. Eng)
     
  2. Supreme

    Supreme Member

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    The problem is that T pad you desoldered. Those pads cant be damaged. The complete a circuit and if you break it your screwed. You should totally uninstall the chip, clean off ALL the solder from the bios points and the power it back up. If you lucky the bios will perform correctly minus the chips imput. If not you may have to buy your boy a new ps2.
     
  3. sector16

    sector16 Member

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    Are you sure because I was under the impression (I was really just reasoning with my self that I didn't destroy the ps2) that those were just test pads they use to take readings or something. If you follow the circuit, it goes from the bios, through the little circle, throught the pad and then stops at another circle.

    Just some thoughts, I'm probably wrong
     
  4. sector16

    sector16 Member

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    Also, what if I used a fiberglass pen or something to stip the board down a bit and expose the circuit and then use a wire to complete the circuit.
     
  5. sector16

    sector16 Member

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    Okay so I resoldered a few points and did the correct R wire setup and now I have a different problem. When I tap reset to start the machine, it does one of three things. It either 1) goes on for a second and then the red light comes back on and it turns off, 2) the red and green lights keep flashing on and off (usually does this) or 3) the red and green lights stay on but nothing happens. In all cases the screen stays black. Usually if the red light comes back on, I just play with the reset cable a bit and then it starts doing the green and blue flashing lights thing. But here’s the funny part, if I put the chip into sleep mode it behaves like a normal ps2 and boots original games and movies every time. I think this is telling me that the bios connections are fine (no brides) and the power/ground/reset wires are all fine as well.

    Any ideas as to which connection it might be. Could the SCEX connection be causing this? (the very top of the pad came off so it’s soldered to the side of the capacitor, same metal contact though)

    Thanks again
     

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