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devolution modchip installation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????/

Discussion in 'Sony PSP - Mod and firmware discussion' started by epekbrick, Jun 7, 2007.

  1. epekbrick

    epekbrick Regular member

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    hey! whats up i wanted to know if the modchip devolution works to unbrick my psp? does it work? and if any anybody knows how to install it? hit me up anybody!
    the problem is i dont know anybody that knows how to do it im from chicago so it's going to b pretty hard u know can someone help but ill lokk around to! so HELP!
     
  2. CKhaleel

    CKhaleel Regular member

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  3. djmazz

    djmazz Regular member

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    there'll be a guide on the net somewhere. theres one for the U.D. on the modchip site. there not as hard as there made out to be, just fiddly.
    n i dont no if the new chip unbricks or not.
     
  4. epekbrick

    epekbrick Regular member

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    CKhaleel! u said yes to? u know how to install them ? where u from ?
     
  5. CKhaleel

    CKhaleel Regular member

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    How to install:


    Soldering the FLEX PCB

    It may look complicated but it is not.

    DO NOT use the hot air method to solder it! Hot air will burn the FLEX PCB because it is too hot, FLEX PCB is too thin and fragile and not suitable for this particular purpose.

    You will need for this operation:

    1. Basic repair tools, knifes…
    2. Sandpaper extra fine grade 600 to 800,
    3. 10 minute epoxy - transparent, non conductive,
    4. Zoom microscope with magnification 3x to at least 30x,
    5. Liquid SMD flux,
    6. Soldering station with adjustable temperature,
    7. Any fluid to clean PCB after soldering
    8. Compressed air in a spray bottle

    To find out what are “10 minute epoxy”, “zoom microscope”, “stereo zoom microscope”, “SMD flux” and others please search for them using ebay or google.



    Locate the red marked areas on your mainboard. They are the same for all mainboards. Only point "A" diferent between TA79-TA81 and TA82-TA86 as you can see here.




    1. Use sand paper to remove the solder mask. Do it gently. You must not scratch the ground i.e. do not remove the solder mask from the ground plane’s edges which are in the close proximity to the traces of the area we will solder to.



    The both areas need to be exposed from soldermask completely as shown below:




    2. Presolder the exposed copper traces with a normal soldering iron and soldering wire. Use a big ball of a fresh solder, move the ball over traces and take it off from the traces again. The pretinned traces must look like this. (Same for the other area of exposed traces)



    Here is a small video showing the procedure of presoldering:

    This video presents a good presoldering practice. At the first moment
    the operator bridges 3 exposed traces and then he removes these
    shorts gently. As you take a closer look the operator does not use
    anything else then a tin wire with the rosin core. He operates the
    tin wire in order to have the rosin constantly fresh. This operation
    is very safe for the PCB and traces. Try to lower the temperature if
    your rosin evaporates too fast. In general don't use too hot tip.
    After this operation clean the remaining rosin by a chemical agent of
    your choice.

    3. Clean the PCB with pcb cleaner and compressed air.

    4. Solder the "B" wire. Locate this area and compare with your PSP. The small cap is either horizontal or vertical (latter only seen in TA86 yet). Solder the wire to the one side of the cap as indicated in the following pictures. You can make a short connection to the point next to it as marked in the pictures for better connection quality.




    5. Put some epoxy dots on the PCB - here you can see the "B" wire which must be isolated using epoxy. We wil solder this wire to the flex pcb later.



    ... and put the FLEX PCB on it. Push the FLEX PCB to the bottom but you must not glue both contact ends as they must remain unglued.







    6. Now use a big magnification to make the final alignment of both contacts. You have 5 to 10 minutes for this operation until the epoxy glue becomes cured. This step is one of the most important and most sensitive as the allignment must be 100% straight on both trace areas.



    Mix two component fast curing transparent epoxy. Put it on the
    motherboard as you see on the movie. Be careful not to put any glue on
    the contact parts of the flexible PCB. At the beginning try to
    position the flex PCB without magnification and then you need to use
    a stereo microscope or a very strong magnification glass. Both
    methods will work. You have at least 5 minutes to position each end
    to the underlining traces on the PCB. Initial alignment without
    magnification is important because after this part of the operation
    you will only align each contact pole of the flex PCB at a time
    moving the whole flex PCB. After some iterations you will align both
    PCB contacts. This second operation is not shown on this movie
    because the motherboard was taken under the stereo scope. After every
    minute the movement of the flex PCB will become harder because of the
    curing epoxy. It is very good factor which helps in the whole
    alignment process.
    If you don't align it at this point the soldering will not be
    possible. It must be the PIN-POINT alignment. Play without the epoxy
    first.

    7. Leave it for additional 20-30minutes to let the epoxy cure completely.

    This video was taken after around 30 minutes when the epoxy is solid
    and after we made two ground connections. Do it only if you made the
    proper flex PCB alignment. Remove the solder mask by a sharp knife or
    screwdriver. Solder both GND points as shown here. These two GND
    points have very important additional purpose. They mechanically
    protect the flex PCB after bending when the programmer is connected
    and mounted on the proper place.

    8. Expose the ground copper on the motherboard and solder both ground points of the FLEX PCB to the motherboard. This operation must be done first prior to the final soldering of the main contacts because both ground joints will prevent any mechanical damages and will keep the FLEX PCB on the right angle with a big strength. It must be done like that for mechanical reasons to prevent a mess up.

    9. Inspect the alignment of the FLEX PCB and traces on the motherboard. If OK go to the next point.

    10. Put a lot of flux between the FLEX PCB and the board. “A lot of” means that it must be immersed in the flux. More flux is better.

    11. Solder all pins together with a big ball of solder for 3 to 6 seconds. Don’t touch the FLEX PCB by the soldering tip but only by a ball of melted solder. During this process apply a little pressure to the end of the pcb with a cold tool. If you replace QFP packages then you understand how to do it. You can use a “micro wave” soldering tip.





    This is the main soldering procedure. Use a bigger ball of tin rather
    more than a smaller because the surface tension works better with a big
    ball. The ball of tin must be "wet". This video was taken from the
    microscope and a built in ocular camera. At the beginning you can see
    somebody's hand with a small bottle of the liquid SMD FLUX. This
    moment is not sharp because the magnification is big and the focus
    depth is very small but right after this moment you can see the
    liquid flux spilling around the motherboard and below the flex PCB.
    Solder immediately after this, Do not let it evaporate. The next
    operation in the movie is the main soldering technique. It may look
    strange but the physics and the surface tension are on our side. The big
    ball of tin will not allow to bridge even the closest and the
    smallest traces. There is only one condition - you must have a lot of
    flux and you must help the process by a rosin core inside of the tin wire.
    Use only Sn/Pb tin wire. The process is similar to the pre soldering.
    Don't touch the flex PCB with the tip, apply small pressure from the
    top as you see using a soldering wire in this example. Don't press it
    in one place because the rosin will glue the tin wire to the flex
    PCB. The idea of this operation is based on the fact that you push the
    heat from the front, using a big and "wet" ball of tin and the
    "surface tension" helps you in this process. Don't use too hot
    soldering iron because you will burn your traces and the flex PCB. If
    you fail at the first attempt you can do the procedure again. Clean
    the area first, put some flux and solder again. If you keep the
    temperature quite low and if you don't scratch the surfaces then you
    can repeat the operation even 3-4 times until you get the proper NAND
    silicon ID from the software. Clean the area after the process.
    Remember: not too hot, a lot of flux, Sn/Pb tin wire with rosin.


    12. Clean the area again using pcb cleaner and compressed air.

    This is after the main soldering operation. The PCB was cleaned. This
    video presents the soldering point from some different angles with a
    moving light for better visibility. This video was taken by the
    microscope. If you can't read the proper NAND silicon ID then you
    need to inspect the soldering and you need to apply the soldering
    procedure again. Simply use more flux and solder again to make
    missing connections. Black areas between soldered traces and below
    the joint point, below the flex PCP is the remaining flux or cleaning
    fluid. It will evaporate within an hour but it will not interfere. It
    does not conduct electricity and will not harm the circuit. Ignore
    it.

    13. Now it is time to solder the wires "A", "B" and "C". We already had to solder wire "B" to the mainboard in an earlier step.

    14.a For TA79 - TA81 solder wire "A" to the left leg of the MH5. You can make a short connection to the left side of the component below as indicated in this picture for better connection quality.



    14b. For TA82 - TA86 solder point "A" to the lower side of the small SMD capacitor. You can make a short connection to the point besides as indicated in this picture for better connection quality.



    15. Solder wire "C" to the pin of the power switch as shown here



    16. Plug the flat ribbon connector into the socket of the chip using the following direction.



    This is a view from the backside



    17. Apply a little bit of glue or double sided adhesive onto the Actel IC and bend the chip over like this:



    18. Now we see the 4 USB pins of the chip that need to be soldered to the PSP's USB Port. Connect them as indicated here:





    19. To be able to make use of the very own USB Port of the PSP we need to prepare a custom USB Cable. The only way we could get this fabulous feature working was by using a free connection of the PSP's USB Port.

    Get yourself any mini USB Cable and cut the end containing the mini USB jack. Buy a new mini USB jack from your local electronics store. (Must be MINI-B). Solder the wires of the USB cable to the mini USB jack as follows:

    red = 1
    white = 2
    green = 4
    black = 5

    After the final soldering you must test if all the previous
    operations were successful before you assemble the PSP back to the
    normal state. You must make a simple test if it is working or not.

    To test it you need he following:

    1. PSP motherboard with the DEVOLUTION-PROGRAMMER
    2. Power switch connected to the PSP’s motherboard
    3. PSP power supply socket inserted
    4. PSP power supply
    5. Self rebuilt USB cable.

    This is the minimum you need to test all electrical connections.





    Every Programmer is sold with the 5 pin mini B USB plug. Get a normal
    USB cable from the shop, cut the mini B plug from this cable and
    replace it with our plug with the only one difference. All USB
    signals in the normal cable are connected to pins 1,2,3,5 but you
    need to connect them to 1,2,4,5. It means that you need to re-solder
    only one cable from pin 3 to pin 4 and no other changes are made. If
    you are able open your retail cable you can only re-solder pin 3 to
    pin 4. If your cable is strongly melted use our plug and solder all
    wires.



    Use the following procedure:

    1. Connect the self rebuilt USB cable and do NOT connect anything
    else
    2. Run the programming software and wait for the communication
    3. Check if the WiFi switch on the PSP is in the “up” position
    4. The RED LED on the programmer should also go ON after some seconds
    5. Connect the power cable and press the power switch to see the
    green power LED
    6. Then press the “Read NAND Silicon ID” button on the main window.

    Step 6 should return:

    0xEC35A5BD for TA082/086
    0xEC75A5BD for TA079/081

    If you get another value then your soldering is bad!

    For example if you receive 0x00000000 or 0xFFFFFFFF then it can be a
    bad soldering and/or power supply problem from the side of the PSP
    motherboard. Look at flex cable and all around it.
    If the value is still different then expected (not zero and not FF)
    then your soldering is bad but all other factors are ok. Try to
    re-solder a flex cable only.
    If you get the proper silicon signature (ID) then you can be fully
    sure that you have done it right.

    If you mess up the edge contact of the flex PCB then you can replace
    the flex or shorten the contact using a microscope. You can simply
    shorten them by half or so. You can cut 0.1 to 0.3mm using a surgical
    knife and good magnification to cut the melted edge and then solder
    again..

    Remember!

    Always use a lot of SMD FLUX, look for short circuits and don’t kill
    the motherboard with the sand paper.

    Before assembling the PSP you should either cut a hole into the metal shielding or just leave it away as it is not required in any way.




     
  6. epekbrick

    epekbrick Regular member

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    wow!thanks
     
  7. CKhaleel

    CKhaleel Regular member

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    No prob.
     
  8. foxrider

    foxrider Guest

    hey epekbrick did u ever get it to work?
     
  9. epekbrick

    epekbrick Regular member

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    i tried but no luck i dont know if thats what u wanted to hear but yea i missed it up but my friend sold me his psp for 50 bucksit really hard
     
  10. foxrider

    foxrider Guest

    i bet it is but i was thinkin about doing it sojust in case
     
  11. jadenx

    jadenx Member

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    Hey any one knows where can i get me devolution install im in LA but i can't find anyone to install it i found a guy be hes in san francisco but he charges $125 just to install it but i have to pay for shipping both ways to so can anyone help me find an installer in LA that's also cheaper
     

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