I have so far managed to turn my movie into the ISO and got as close as possible to burning in Decrypter. Yet no matter what disc I put into the writer, it's not detected by Decrypter. I have tried Philips RW's, Maxell R's & even the most expensive Sony R's I could find. None were detected, meaning I cannot write I have done the DMA settings and am really at a loss as to what to do, any help would be greatly appreciated
What type of dvdr's are you using? + or -'s? Some burners are not dual formated and only accept one or the other, ---zen--->
u wouldnt by any chance have dvd43 and anydvd installed on your pc at the sametime?if so delete one of them.i had the same problem and deleted dvd43 and everything was fine.if you dont it could be the media.
I think I am using + ones. Although I am not very experienced and don't know how to tell the difference, although I'm pretty sure I've never seen any - disc's before I also have neither DVD43 or AnyDVD installed on my system. I am using a SAMSUNG CDRW/DVD SM-348B if thats any use. I am getting frustrated as I have tried different types, different brands, and still nothing is working.
If the ISO is larger than the disc, it won't show. What size is your ISO. What guide are you using ? Unless you are a genious who cannot learn anything from anyone here on Earth, you should use a guide so you can see where youir mistake is made. There are 2 guides in my sig. The first, Shrink/Decrypter if you are dealing with a DVD-9 OR Copy a DVD-5 for smaller jobs. NOTE: DMA controls the transfer of data (fast or slow). something like a non-working ASPI layer OR poor firmware can also make a difference as well as a drive which requires a Defrag. Here's some info on Fimware and ASPI: There are some things we should check as they have a direct influence over how our drive behaves - Physically, Your burner s/b set as "master" on your IDE cable and the IDE cable s/b an 80-pin cable not a 40-pin. Always double-check your burner's jumpers to make sure they are correctly set for master, not slave if you installed the burner yourself. 1. Let's check for up-to-date Firmware for your burner. "OK, so what is this "Firmware" garbage?" Fair question. Firmware is a "tutor" who's job it is to eliminate any "bugs" found in your drive and to "introduce" your burner to all the different kinds of media to your burner is likely to run into and to tell your burner a little bit about it. What type of media it is and at what speed to burn it. As new media is introduced OR, as the Mfgrs of your burner find new ways to use it, new firmware updates OR "Flash upgrades" come out to "school" your burner, keeping it up-to-date. It's good to keep your burner up-to-date as it "tweaks" your burner and keeps it operating at peak performance. Of major Importance – When dealing firmware, you must match your burner's exact model with the proper Firmware. Trying to "Flash" your burner with something "Close" won't do it. It must be the exact firmware for your drive. ("Flashing" is what the installation is referred to when you put the firmware into your drive.) Trying to "Flash" your drive with some other drive's firmware can ruin your drive. At the bottom of the page look for "What's my firmware? - Try this little tool I found," Download this tool and check out your Firmware's health (up-to-date wise). You can probably get a current upgrade there also – http://flashman.rpc-1.com/ Firmware page - http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_all.php Always check your burner's Mfgr's "Support" section to see if some newer Firmware is there - Firmware, You can't burn without it - Now we need to see if we have a working ASPI Layer. "Yea right, and ASPI stands for Another Stupid Piece of Insanity, right ?" No, not quite, it stands for "Advanced SCSI Programming Interface". "Well that tells me nothing, what's it do ?" That's a much easier question to answer. It is kind of a "translator" allowing your software to talk your hardware in a manner that your hardware will understand. Let's imagine an Earthman trying to talk to a rock. Now, think of a sledgehammer as being the interface. With the interface in play, the Earthman can tell the rock to disperse into gravel no matter what planet the rock is from, OK ? Good, let's see if we have a "working" sledgehammer ~ 2. Check your ASPI layer to ensure it's working. The operative word here is "working". ASPI Checker. Ascertains your ASPI layer's presence and operation status Check for your ASPI Layer. ASPI Checker - http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/su...oduct/EZ-SCSI_5.0&filekey=aspichk.exe&sess=no If one isn't present, we'll need to get one and reinstall it, then reboot our PC to allow it to "settle in". Force 1.8 ASPI Layer - http://forceaspi18.w.interia.pl/ Finally, we need to check your DMA. "Ooohh, no you're not ! Only my husband or my Doctor checks my "D", "M" . . whatever . . ." No, no, it's OK, DMA stands for "Direct Memory Access" transfer mode OR as we say in the computer field, it's a really, fast way to move stuff. Many PC's today are using UDMA or "Ultra Direct Memory Access transfer mode, or as we like to call it, a really super-duper fast way to move stuff as opposed to the PIO mode. The PIO or Programmed I/O mode, is a technique whereby the system CPU and support hardware directly control the transfer of data between the system and the hard disk since shortly after the beginning of PC's up until the mid-1990's. So we want DMA (fast) more than we PIO (slow). 3. Let's check your Drive's transfer mode. It should be DMA-4, not PIO. Windows XP downgrades the Ultra DMA transfer mode after receiving six CRC errors and drops it down to the much slower PIO mode. To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager 1. Go to "My Computer, ""System Tools," "View System Information," then System Properties, "Hardware," Then Open Device Manager 2. Double-click IDE ATA//ATAPI Controllers to display the list of controllers and channels. 3. Right-click the icon for the channel to which your burner is connected and select Properties. Now click the Advanced Settings tab. 4. In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if available if the current setting says, "PIO Only." If the drop-down box already says, "DMA if Available" but the current transfer mode is PIO, then the user must "toggle" the settings. That is, change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and click "OK". Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to "DMA if available". OPTION: Right-click the burner and select "Uninstall" and then "OK" all prompts until the PC reboots. Upon rebooting, the PC should "find" your burner and reinstall it setting it by "Default" to DMA. Lastly, when did you last defrag your Hard Drive (HD) ? If you have to stop and think about the last time you did it, then it's way, way overdue. Here we go, (Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, Disk Defragmenter. When it opens, choose your HD, analyses it to see where we stand then if you need it (you probably will) choose Defragment.). After you finish doing it now you might want to think about having "Scheduled Tasks" in your Control Panel do it for you on a daily basis. A fragmented HD not only drastically slows down your system but it can cause all number of things to happen inside your PC, a messed up burn being one of them. Once we've done that, our DVD burner should operate at peak efficiency ) Cheers, Pete Now let's see if everything will work together the way we want it to, OK ? Give it a test run and let us know how you make out - BTW, you purchase discs for their quality - price has nothing to do with it. As it were, Sony makes a good discf BUT Maxell is pure garbage for DVD Video work.
For real wicked2005 it looks like to me your burner is set up only for -'s. I am not an expert by any means but scuba pete does he even have a burner in that thing? shouldn't it say dvd+rw? It looks like just a rom to me although I have been known to be a complete idiot. And yes they do make -'s thats what most use I think (complete idiot's idea)
wikid2005 If what you have is a SAMSUNG CDRW/DVD SM-348B then it is a DVD-Rom and it will not burn a DVD. It only reads a DVD. You will need to get a burner
Many, many thanks to Scuba Pete for all the invaluable help he's provided. May I make a contribution to him or make a donation to his favorite charity in his name? Most grateful to the underwater guy!
Damn, I was ensured when I bought it I would be able to burn DVD's on it. Oh well, thanks anyway to all those who responded, and so quickly too. I shall try my best to stick around and help anybody if I can. Meanwhile I'll probably have to go out and buy a burner, so watch this space for more problems as the story unfolds lol And once again, thankyou
Hey wicked you can still burn a dvd to a vcd or svcd I am pretty sure just need a dvd rom and a cdrw which you have try this guide or others above on the guide tab. http://www.afterdawn.com/guides/archive/dvd2svcd_with_tmpgenc.cfm good luck ---zen-->
Good call Zen, Keep up the good work . . . wikid2005, When you purchase DVD discs it tells you on the box what it is either a +R or a -R. You're also lucky, for what used to be a several hundred dollad purchase for a burner, you can now get one for about $79.00 or so for a DL DVD/CD burner. Go get'em guy . . . Pete
Thankyou for all your help, everyone. I have since purchased a DVD writer and it works fine so far. If I have any problems at all I will not hesitate to come back and ask any of you knowledgable people p In the shop I bought the writer, I also saw some DVD-R discs, the first time I saw them, so I made sure it could burn both, which it can. Thankyou again everyone for all your help
Hey scuba pete, I have a question for you. I too have recently bought a new pioneer a09 I have a question about installing it I thought it wa s going to come with cables but I was mistaken. Any how guess I will use the ones already to my NECdvd +rw 1100 A my question is how can you tell if they are 80 pin or 40 pin. I have over heard others discussing this, I am kinda scared to install it. It is an internal one should the cables be all their already to use just transfer? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
zen, We may "say' the word "Pin" BUT in reality it is the cable wires we're talking about. Count the wires that go from connector to connector - we want the number to be 80. That makes for faster data transfer with little to no interference OR cross-talking between wires. Caio, @wikid2005, Now that you're doing well, it doesn't mean it's time for you to up and move on - this is a give and take kind of a deal ~ You've seen how we work and you've seen that we had fun doing it. - Now it's your turn, stop back when you're free and help someone else - You'll have fun and, a chance to learn some more, teaching is a learning experience too, you know Take a few minutes and check out our opening page. We've got a ton"O"stuff here at aD ~ Checkout some of our other forums, we have the "Safety Valve" a forum about anything - from "What's bugging you," to, "Where members come from" OR "The best joke you've ever heard." More free time on your hands ? Check out our forum's on Home Theater components (there might be an idea for something new to do with yours), CD's, PS2's, X-box or Gamecube topics OR check out the forum on Cellular phones, something new about yours might be there ~ one can never tell Me ? Well I'll be over there, behind the water cooler, under the potted Palm, sipping a "cold one" and chewing the fat, trying to help the next Newbie with the weight of the burning world upon their shoulders. - Feel free to stop by and say "Howdy" ~ I'll expect to Sea ya soon, Cheers, Pete :b)
Hey guys, it's been awhile but I managed to get things figured out. I wanted to thank everyone who gave me things to try and to help me out. I ended up using the DVD Shrink and then instead of the decryptor(which I was getting the aspi error on) I started using the program that came on my computer to burn. IT's called CopyToDVD. It works great except that it is telling me the software is going to expire in about a week. If I need help I'll come back. Thanks again to everyone and have a good one!!
CopyToDVD is an excellent burner. IMHO, it's the fastest easiest burning app available. I haven't regretted it once since purchasing it - Pete
I haven't bought the CopyToDVD yet. But i already had it on my computer. I don't really want to but it though. Do you have any idea how much it costs to but it?? It is a pretty easy program to use. Thanks for the comment ScubaPete.
$29.99 (USD) at your local web site - http://shareit.com/product.html?cart=1&productid=157972&languageid=1&affiliateid=70128 Cheers, Pete
(In my best John Wayne voice) Welp, your welcome there littl' lady, it's whaat we do . . . Now you becareful out thar, ya hear . . . ? Plopin' a few more quarters into my ole' horse "Paint", gonna head out across the parkig lot, moseyen' my way back home . . . Gettie up thare ole' girl, getie up . . . YEee Haaahhhhhhhh . . . . . .