I tried to rip a movie larger then 4.7. I first decrypt it with decrypter in file mode. Then shrunk it with shrinker using the re-author option and edited it out stuff I didn't want. Then back it with shrinker again and burnt it with nero because the nero option was enabled. The movie wouldn't work on both my computer or home dvd. It would start playing in my home dvd but would stop playing in the first 5 sec. It would freeze. I tried also instant copy and same thing. Please help.
I tried to rip a movie larger then 4.7. I first decrypt it with decrypter in file mode. Then shrunk it with shrinker using the re-author option and edited it out stuff I didn't want. Then back it with shrinker again and burnt it with nero because the nero option was enabled. The movie wouldn't work on both my computer or home dvd. It would start playing in my home dvd but would stop playing in the first 5 sec. It would freeze. I tried also instant copy and same thing. Please help. without more info, the only thing I can think of is what media were you burning, and at what speed? I am using 4x Kodak media +, burning at 2 or 4x it's set for auto. I can burn a movie that's less than 4.7 with dvd decrypter and plays fine on my home dvd player but not on my computer using powerdvd. Larger movies I have been having problems. I want to be able to play them on both my home dvd and on my computer. any suggestions... thanks.
nemezis. I dont know if this help you or not, but it worked fine for me, and it's much simple, you need Shrink and Decripter, that's all you need. - Put you disk in the tray then run Shink. - After Shrink finishes the analysis, click the Re-author icon. - Drag what your want and put on to the left side box - Click backup icon. - Shrink will pop a window, then you set SELECT BACKUP TARGET to: ISO image file , and then select the directory that you want the ISO file stored to. And wait for Shrink do its job. - When Shrink done, use Decipter with MODE->ISO->WRITE to burn your dvd. Run Shink once and Decripter once your're done, simple isn't it.
You wrote, nemezis. I dont know if this help you or not, but it worked fine for me, and it's much simple, you need Shrink and Decripter, that's all you need. - Put you disk in the tray then run Shink. - After Shrink finishes the analysis, click the Re-author icon. - Drag what your want and put on to the left side box - Click backup icon. - Shrink will pop a window, then you set SELECT BACKUP TARGET to: ISO image file , and then select the directory that you want the ISO file stored to. And wait for Shrink do its job. - When Shrink done, use Decipter with MODE->ISO->WRITE to burn your dvd. Run Shink once and Decripter once your're done, simple isn't it. My reply First I used dvd decrypter to remove the dvd protection on file mode. Then I would run shrink to open the files in the directory I saved them in with decryptor. Then shrink would anylize the folder, I then select the re-author option selecting only what I wanted in the order I wanted it. Then it would automatically burn it on the disc after decoding using Nero. The is basically how I was doing it. Thanks. I will try your method.
Hi nemezis, As you've already been told, you're using crappy media, you need to change it - Cheap media freezes, skips, pixelats and may refuse to be recognized by both burners and players :-( A good grade, Hi-quality media is needed for DVD reproduction ! RiData, Sony, TDK, "Branded" Ritek G04's or "Branded" Verbatim Data Life, Verbatim DataLife plus, Taiyo Yuden's and generally, almost any discs manufactured by Mitsubishi are excellent bets. Among the better discs we're looking for, any media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO" - BUT it must say "METAL" AZO !, this indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc, while they are sometimes a bit "pricey" they are just the type of media we're looking for to do our DVD backups, Prices online from Meritline.com have gotten Ritek G04 starting at about a $ .45 (USD) a disc - Question - If you make coasters out of 3 cheap or even average discs and good copies from 3 RiData, Ritek, TDK, Sony or Verbatim discs - which ones then will you say are too expensive ? The 3 "Cheapo's with no movie backup OR, the 3 recommended discs with a perfect backup on each disc ? Bear in mind, Memorex, Orange Pack, Princo, Fuji, Great AZO and others are quite good for your MP3 music, picture archives, Spread sheets, Data and your text backups and archives, they just don't work well for DVD backups. Even DataSafe G04's made by Ritek have been reported as an inferior quality media and are evoking that "Oh no, I shouldn't have gotten those." Remember, for DVD backups, purchasing inexpensive media or even average media is a gamble, some people win, the majority of people lose, varying amounts varying amounts, true but, they still lose :-( Using good grade media can guarantee you one thing to an absolute certainty; it surely cannot hurt. BTW, In an effort to clear the air, when I speak of "Cheap" or "Inexpensive" media, I'm not referring to the price you pay at the counter - I'm referring to the type of composite some manufactures use, their method of dye application and the lack of OR the poor quality control used during manufacturing. When I say "Branded" that means that when you pick up a disc in your hand, it says "Ritek" or "RiData" on the disc itself. The monetary cost of the media we recommend many times is cheaper than what you are purchasing now. We like to verify our information prior to recommending things. There are certain things we look at. For instance, when their dye and dye application are listed as unknown, this almost guarantees us they are using whatever they can get at a cheap price. Companies that use quality materials like to BRAG about it, naming names and staying with quality manufacturers who produce their media. I hope that helps, Pete
OK Thanks for the info I tried what you said with shrink and decrypter and I got another coaster. My home dvd player said NO DISC after it tried to load it for like minute, and using powerdvd it would say unsupported format. So obiviously you could be right. I will buy a better media. Thanks dude.
Hi there nemezis... for what it's worth, and I'd love (appreciate) commentary from others, I've found that DVD-R to be the most reliable for playback in any typical brand dvd player i.e. Toshiba, Go Video, Samsung, etc. I'm just sharing 'my' experience... When I used dvd+r, dvd playback on a PC was typically a non-issue (did have compatability issues between dvd drive types on occasion), but same may not play back on a standard dvd player; when using dvd-r a surprising difference, and in most cases any dvd player would play. Ok so I'm a compulsive nut... I have tested tested tested... I'm pretty sure I'm right. Compulsive on HW too: All systems IA P4 with hecka RAM hecka HDD Plextor PX-708A Plextor PX-712U TDK whatever whatever R+-8X Sony whatever whatever R+-4X I'm pretty anal (sorry if offend on stopping any what might be 'black listed' programs or services when doing dvd copying or video rendering... in fact have scripted most so I just stop them all and restart i.e. virus scan when copying/rendering completed. Do not keep virus scan stopped (hahahahaha) I hope this info helps. R
Thanks for the info. I do have one question. You're saying to use DVDR- instead of +. Does your burner have to be also - because I think mine is only +. I think....!!! I only ask because I read somewhere in the forum that your burner has to support + or - to get it right. Is that true? I could be wrong or misunderstood what I read. So what would be the best brand media for -. Thanks dude.
I have no problem backing up after reauthoring if I just back up the main title. I can't seem to be able to back up the entire disc. What might I be doing wrong?
nemezis, Several years ago that was a statement that had some merit. In the last couple of years players have indeed come along way and today's player can play a Mushroom Pizza if the cheese isn't too thick. In choosing media to burn DVD backups, the dye is the thing. A quality dye and appliacation and tight quatliy control are today's keywords. PLEASE SEE MY POST ON BURNING MEDIA - DVD-R-RW Although some of this refers to the eraserable features it describes in full the type of recording format used in DVD (dash) R media. DVD-R (which is pronounced "dash R" not "minus R") uses organic dye technology, like CD-R, and is compatible with most DVD drives and players. DVD -RW (formerly DVD-R/W and also briefly known as DVD-ER) is a phase-change erasable format. Developed by Pioneer based on DVD-R, using similar track pitch, mark length, and rotation control, DVD-RW is playable in many DVD drives and players. DVD+R+RW Although some of this refers to the eraserable features it describes in full the type of recording format used in DVD (plus) R media. DVD+RW backers claimed in 1997 that the format would be used only for computer data, not home video, but this was apparently a smokescreen intended to placate the DVD Forum and competitors. The DVD+RW format uses phase-change media with a high-frequency wobbled groove that allows it to eliminate linking sectors. This, plus the option of no defect management, allows DVD+RW discs to be written in a way that is compatible with many existing DVD readers. Which should you buy ? There are two main formats: "dash" (DVD-R/RW) and "plus" (DVD+R/RW). There's not much difference between them. They both record data and video, and they both read back data and play back video. Both formats are available as recordable drives for computers and as home video recorders. In spite of claims that one format is more compatible with players and drives, both formats are similarly compatible. There are speed differences, but it's a game of leapfrog. One format will come out with faster write speeds, then the other one will match it or surpass it. In 2003, drives reached 8x speeds. 16x is the theoretical maximum, so both formats will soon hit the limit. Source: http://dvddemystified.com/dvdfaq.html#4.3 BTW, The reason they call it +R media in the beginning is because it was considered better than -R media. Don't even think about putting -R media in your burner if your burner is a +R format unit. For what it's worth, I burn +R for 100% of all my work, that's well over 750 discs in the past year without a problem. I suggest you do your own research - DVD-R aren't "Better" Cheers, Pete
shrinker, You needn't go into re-Author when doing an entire disc backup. Stay in "FullDisc" mode, uncheck unwanted audio and click, "Backup". Cheers, Pete
Hi Nemezis - I think you got your answer from Pete on the media type/compatabilty for +R format only drives, just wanted to make sure you understood that you must use +R media with a +R format only DVD writer. I must say that I did not intend to indicate that -R media was the 'best' nor that +R DVD writers were inferior, I merely wished to share my experience. Pete brought up some very valid points that make me reconcider whether I may have sided with -R simply due to 'inexperience', inferior grade media, and as I mentioned in my post -black listed programs/services. Since embarking on this hobby I have learned to buy good media, not just what's on sale (although it's hard to pass up on .29c per disc sales on GQ 4X or 8X media from Fry's Electronics (MID: LEAD DATA) and I've had relatively good success with them I will take Pete's lead and burn a few +R's and let you know the results. If I no longer get 'no disc' or 'no media' messages I will retract my comment. BTW these same discs always played fine on a PC, just not on relatively new DVD players, several. Cheese mustuv been too thick <grin> And I do appreciate Pete's candor and objectivity, thanks. R
Hey guys, Well I decide to try one last time with the Kodak media DVDR+ by trying to rip The Last Samurai. I opened shrink and selected re-author. I only dragged the movie to the dvd. Then I only selected the 5.1 Ch box. Then I back it back with the burn with Nero option. Once the whole process was complete the movie played on my computer using powerdvd, and on my home dvd player. I haven't watch it all to see if maybe it freezes up half way or some other defect. But it works. I tried it on my friends computer who has the same burner and same powerdvd but wouldn't work for some reason. It would say unsupported format. So I don't know why it would'nt play on his. I will try another movies just to use up the Kodak's and then buy Sony's or whatever!!! Thanks guys.
This might be of some help - STOPGAP FIXES for Cheap Media:[/b] 1. * There's a little sometimes fix. It's to compress your DVD to somewhere around 4.2GB even (4200MB). For instance when using DVD Shrink, open it and click "Edit", then click "Preferences" on this page we're going to select "DVD Target Size" as custom and set the size as 4200MB. By reducing the amount to be burned you can stay away from the edges where the dye tends to be uneven and the discs may even be brittle. 2. You may reduce the number of errors while burning cheapo media by burning at a reduced speed. It takes longer but what the heck, you're saving money (Lol). Since you're compressing more it might be wise to burn just the movie, the less you burn the better the quality sooo, movie only, please. Try to clean your DVD discs. Yea, I know they're new and clean but do it anyway. Do it a few seconds before inserting, use a disc cleaner, Eyeglass cleaning solution or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a soft cotton cloth and rub-a-dub, dub Cheers, Pete
