OK, let's work on the software that effects your burning (By the time we're done, your PC should Huum like a V8 ) There are some things we should check as they have a direct influence over how our drive behaves - 1. Let's check for up-to-date Firmware for your burner. "OK, so what is this "Firmware" garbage?" Fair question. Firmware is a "tutor" who's job it is to "introduce" all the different kinds of media to your burner and to tell your burner a little bit about it. What type of media it is and at what speed to burn it. As new media in introduced OR, as the Mfgrs of your burner find new ways to use it, new Firmware updates come out to "school" your burner, keeping it up-to-date. At the bottom of the page look for "What's my firmware? - Try this little tool I found," Download this tool and check out your Firmware's health (up-to-date wise). You can probably get a current upgrade there also – http://flashman.rpc-1.com/ Firmware page - http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_all.php Firmware, You can't be without it - Now we need to see if we have a working ASPI Layer. "Yea right, and ASPI stands for Another Stupid Piece of Insanity, right ?" No, not quite, it stands for "Advanced SCSI Programming Interface". "Well that tells me nothing, what's it do ?" That's a much easier question to answer. It is kind of a "translator" allowing your software to talk your hardware in a manner that your hardware will understand. Let's imagine an Earthman trying to talk to a rock. Now, think of a sledgehammer as being the interface. With the interface in play, the Earthman can tell the rock to disperse into gravel no matter what planet the rock is from, OK ? Good, let's see if we have a sledgehammer – 2. Check for your ASPI Layer. If one isn't present, we'll need to get one and reinstall it, then reboot our PC to allow it to "settle in". ASPI Checker - http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/su...oduct/EZ-SCSI_5.0&filekey=aspichk.exe&sess=no Force 1.8 ASPI Layer - http://forceaspi18.w.interia.pl/ If you've found you need an ASPI layer OR would like some additional information about it - here you go – http://cd-rw.org/articles/archive/aspisetup.cfm Finally, we need to check your DMA. "Ooohh, no you're not ! Only my husband or my Doctor checks my "D", "M" . . whatever . . ." No, no, it's OK, DMA stands for "Direct Memory Access" transfer mode OR as we say in the computer field, it's a really, fast way to move stuff. Many PC's today are using UDMA or "Ultra Direct Memory Access transfer mode, or as we like to call it, a really super-duper fast way to move stuff as opposed to the PIO mode. The PIO or Programmed I/O mode, is a technique whereby the system CPU and support hardware directly control the transfer of data between the system and the hard disk since shortly after the beginning of PC's up until the mid-1990's. So we want DMA (fast) more than we PIO (slow). 3. Let's check your Drive's transfer mode. It should be DMA-4, not PIO. Windows XP downgrades the Ultra DMA transfer mode after receiving six CRC errors and drops it down to the much slower PIO mode. To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager 1. Open Device Manager 2. Double-click IDE ATA//ATAPI Controllers to display the list of controllers and channels. 3. Right-click the icon for the channel to which your burner is connected and select Properties. Now click the Advanced Settings tab. 4. In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if available if the current setting says, "PIO Only." If the drop-down box already says, "DMA if Available" but the current transfer mode is PIO, then the user must "toggle" the settings. That is, change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and click "OK". Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to "DMA if available". OPTION: Right-click the burner and select "Uninstall" and then "OK" all prompts until the PC reboots. Upon rebooting, the PC should "find" your burner and reinstall it setting it by "Default" to DMA. Lastly, when did you last defrag your Hard Drive (HD) ? If you have to stop and think about the last time you did it, then it's way, way overdue. Here we go, (Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, Disk Defragmenter. When it opens, choose your HD, analyses it to see where we stand then if you need it (you probably will) choose Defragment.). After you finish doing it now you might want to think about having "Scheduled Tasks" in your Control Panel do it for you on a daily basis. A fragmented HD not only drastically slows down your system but it can cause all number of things to happen inside your PC, a messed up burn being one of them. Cheers, Pete Now let's see if everything will work together the way we want it to, OK ? Give it a test run and let us know how you make out -
Did we forget what this thread asked? From sjg199xp So the problem isn't burning or backing up the disk. So I don't really understand why you are giving the advise you are giving ScubaPete? It seems to me he is burning the disk fine if it plays on other players. I know you usually give very good advise and I value it greatly but I believe you are a little off on this one. His problem is simply playing back the DVD on his computer it seems to play fine everywhere else he try's. So it is either His copy of powerer DVD or his Video card I would suspect it is video card. Try playing the DVD using Windows media player Sjg199xp and see if it plays on there...
So very true bbmayo, I should have re-read his original post. I defiantly went off on a tangent. Your assessment looks to be right on the mark. My guess would be his video card also - Thanks for putting this thread back on track, Pete
Some of earlier Pentium III/AMD boards had shared 8 or 16 MB built-in video adapter. Also, any spyware tends to really slow down the processor; did you try checking for this yet?
Thanks I don't have any spyware on this PC, I am going to get a video card and see if that pinpoints the problem.
Don't go gettin a video card just yet, even though it looks like you need one.. LOL try playing your DVD's (Try originals first) through other software like Windows Media or Nero media.. Lets rule out the fact that it's not your software first... Also what settings is your video at right now? example Screen Resolution "1074 by 768" and color quality "highest(32Bit)" thats just an example. I just was wondering what yours is reading right now. You could also update your drivers for the video card and motherboard. There is a lot you could try before spending $$ on a video card. Personally I believe a video card is the most important hardware on your PC. You will run into a lot less trouble with a good video card virsus a high end processor. Just try those suggestions first and let me know what happens... Good Luck
Thanks again for the help woth this, I know it isn't the copy of my power dvd 5 because I have this installed on 4 other PC's and they play dvd's no problem and I uninstalled and reinstalled this a few times. I am trying to play original dvd's and I am getting the same skipping around with all the startup files disabled. I tried with window media player 10 and it plays the dvd and there is no skipping of the sound but I am getting no visual, just audio, if I could get visual it would be just fine The mother board looks old and has a PCI slot so I am unable to install the AGP video card that I had for this. My settings are set at 1024x768 pixels with 24 bit which is the highest I can go. Is there anymore recommandations taht I can try? Thanks again, Steve G.
Try your video settings at 800x600 and 16bit.. Do you have the most up to date drivers loaded for your motherboard and video card? Let us know ?
You are the man, I changed to those settigns and it is playing now. I am almost positive that everything is up to date in regards to the drivers, I did that last week. It looks like I am good to go, I don't think I need to do anything else because I am able to play originals and backups no problem unless can think of anything else that I should do also. I appreciate the help, this website is great. Thanks again all, Steve G.
No problem it was exactly what I expected. The Video Card. It just can't handle the extra stress. Your DVD's should look just fine in Power DVD at these settings anyway. If you are just using it for what you say then I wouldn't bother doing anything else. If you get a chance you could always buy a PCI video card to up grade, but I would say there is no need if all is working fine now.. I'm glad everything is working now Don't forget about us if you need anything else and have a Happy Thanksgiving
