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Needed a break from soldering

Discussion in 'Safety valve' started by biglog9, Jun 3, 2003.

  1. biglog9

    biglog9 Member

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    let me just say that soldering the I H G D C B legs of the Magic 3.1 on a version 1C PS2 really sucks. People that have done it knows what i am talking about. I needed a break because i just put a bridge across three legs (i think the soldering iron when 30 yards when i threw it). Just venting
     
  2. chriso123

    chriso123 Regular member

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    Hope you finished chipping your PS.
     
  3. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    Yep LOL to that biglog9.

    Decided to take the plunge myself with the magic 3.1.

    4 Bloody hours last night - I consider myself to be a very good solderer as I am into electronics, but nothing prepared me for when the cover was removed and the board was just staring at me.....

    I H G D C B legs of the Magic 3.1, these were a major challenge - bridges everywhere (take me to the river).

    Got it done in the end, works fine however I am getting a little bit of interference on the TV.

    I now know the dam cables are TOO long, and route them differently, looks like I am going in for another pass this weekend.
    May fit some decoupling on to the supp line aswell.

    People have asked me, if I can do it, if I can do their's.........heh heh Dream on........
     
  4. biglog9

    biglog9 Member

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    well i got it working
    let me say that i soldered and resoldered those damn legs about thirty times to get it the way i liked
    what i finally did was put a piece of paper(yes i said paper) between each leg so i wouldnt bridge

    thanks for support
     
  5. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    Well I tell you have been soldering/desoldering for years, and that REALLY tested me.

    I have never thought of what you suggested, but shall give it a go this weekend - the simple ideas are usually the best - cheers
     
  6. train

    train Member

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    Yes those puppies are hard to get on correctly with no bridges, but i did it another way.
    You can touchup each leg with a tiny amount of solder. Then place it on the board held down with a cloths pin. Then us a shrink gun with a small hole for the hot air to hit it.
    I used some aluminum foil to get a small enough hole and heated the solder on the legs till they were all soldered in place.
    Only be shure to hold the gun for only a few moments and as soon as the solder melts get that heat away. (I fryed some of the board on my test piece)So do be careful.

    >>There are no knowns. You only know what you know when you know it.<<
     
  7. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    Heh train

    You're a crazy guy LOL... - had to read your post a couple of times before it sunk in.

    How bad did you fry the board - I know if I tried this - it would have been adios PS2.

    Funny though, here has been posted 2 methods - which work with a little patience/care.

    Anyone else got other methods for installing the magic 3.1 modchip?

    Nice method though - I wouldn't have thought of that one....
    Maybe start a new thread up....
     
  8. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    I have just found a new method.

    Get a small enough iron tip and your good.

    Just done another one - this one took me 1 hr 30 mins, compared to my VIRGIN one which took nearly 4hrs.
    (the correct equipment makes a whole lot of difference).

    LOL - I have just found out I am a dumbass.
    After my first mod I was getting interference on my TV - the problem was my digibox - causing ghosting.
    I found this out by plugging an unmodded PS2 in - did the same.....

    Should have done this first BEFORE opening it up AGAIN and re-routing the wires.......

    Well I have learned something from it - try the obvious first..........._X_X_X_X_X_[small]Beware of the Pixies - they move in over night and turn your life upside down

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2003
  9. train

    train Member

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    Well baabaa,
    I will only say that under the magnifing glass I was concetrating so much on the task at hand that when i scanned the other areas of the board some components were - like - no longer there.
    So i tilted the thing and surface mount fell on the work bench and some were "EASY BAKE OVEN" specials.
    At home i wish i had all the equipment Lockheed has at work the "PROPER INSTRUMENTS".
    So, i try everything that seems like it will work before i screw up like at work..
    At least i tested it first on a piece of junk first.
    At work i put on a $14,000 proto flat pack and pin 1 was not really where it was supposed to be. Just use your imagination on that one. The pop, the smoke, the smell, Geeezzzz that was a bad day!!
    Thank heaven they had ordered TWO. To say the least, i let the other designer put it on the spare board.
    Answered the question with no pride. ;)
    Later then. Maybe TMI. What the heh..

    >>There are no knowns.. We only know what we know when we know it!!<< (And i do know that one now)




     
  10. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    arrrr man - my heart bleeds, that was an expensive f';; up. LOL though.....

    However there are some very good heat resistance tapes you can get, which you can stick over ALL the components to stop the solder melting, however you need to wait until the solder has cooled BEFORE removing the tape or else the components come off STUCK to the tape.

    Still the components remain intact and give you an exact positioning of where they came from...

    Nice story, not worth mentioning in an interview though...LOL
     
  11. train

    train Member

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    You,Him,Her,Somebody,
    I have another problem and need direction to a thread, site, where ever on a fix.
    Problem: I got the famous "NTLDR missing" and took it into the shop (becouse of warranty issues) and he could do nothing to fix it. I got it back FUBAR.
    It is now close to death. I think he/they cleared my CMOS and now it will do nothing but beep at me on startup.
    If i can get it to POST, i can take it from there and get her operational again. (I think?!?)
    Got a place for me to go and get that info? Anyone?

    Thanks in advance.

    >>There are no knowns.. We only know what we know when we know it!!<<
     
  12. train

    train Member

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    baabaa,
    I know that there is a page/thread on the NTLDR on the AfterDawn site and have read everything on it and really should not post this here but i am in a bad bind here.
    Should i start a new thread? Maybe? I dunno?
    No more entries on this subject from me here.

    Thanks :)

    >>There are know knows.. We only know what we know when we know it!!<<_X_X_X_X_X_[small]dtrain[/small]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2003
  13. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    No idea on that one I'm afraid - happy searching...

     
  14. biglog9

    biglog9 Member

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    any of you guys know were a good site is for alternate solder point. i am doing my friends ps2 now (magic 3.1, version 1C ps2) and cant seem to get it to work.
     
  15. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    biglog9

    not conversant with all the different versions.

    I used www.china-magic.com for my installation Jpegs and version types....see if there is anything useful there...
     
  16. biglog9

    biglog9 Member

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    well i been trying to get this damn p2s v2 to mod (2 weeks and counting)

    i think i found the problem

    i bought the magic3.1 from easybuy2000 and found out that the modchips are clones(with the ubicom chip on it).
    i ASSUME (ASS outof U and ME) that easybuy2000 was selling good modchips, being a sponser and all.
    funny thing is that the first ps2 that i modded with the clone works but all the others dont. maybe some clones work???

    where is a good site to get a real magic3.1???

    i wont buy modchips from easybuy2000. they might have other good products but not magic3.1's.
    i know sponsors are what helps this site so i wont bash them to hard

    (fuc&@*# horse Sh%@)

    sorry about that just letting off some steam

    -Jason
     
  17. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    Yeah man, very concerned about this issue.

    I am in the UK, my supplier has the picture of the v1-v7 magic 3.1, but sends the ones with Ubicom on them....

    Now I have just mailed them with a diplomatic approach concerning these issues raised.

    Now they have been very good for me, regarding ANY issues I have raised, and should get a response back sometime tomorrow....

    As with you, I have had NO problems with the Ubicom version - and actually wondering whether these rumours ARE JUST RUMOURS or not.....

    I remember with the original PS1, these chips came out and after a while there were different versions released, with more/less soldering of wires etc and also the 12c508 pic that was used was also available with the 12c509 pic.
    Now the type of chip did not make ANY difference in terms of working.....

    I am an electronic engineer by trade - and do know that, sometimes code has to be altered slightly SOMETIMES when using a different manufactured chip.

    The question which no one can tell me is WHO makes the chip with v1-v7 printed on it?

    People are saying about the different code on them however I cannot belive this as I have had NO issues with the Ubicom ones...

    I f I do not get any definative answer off my supplier, then I shall be inserting a device to my PS2 so that I can check the device BEFORE soldering - if they work, then I shall probably continue using them.....

    My supplier is http://www.psxservices.co.uk/shop/en-gb/dept_3.html.

    Static can play a major part - and can damage the chip, if the proper precautions are not taken - ie grounding yourself to earth....via a wrist strap...

    Probably doesn't help much but yes (fuc&@*# horse Sh%@)

    (fuc&@*# horse Sh%@)
     
  18. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    I have just had a response as follows:

    Thank you for your recent email.
    You are correct in that we get a lot of email about this.

    Our first batch of mods arrived with the sticker on them though we did change suppliers a few months ago.
    Since the switch the mods no longer have the sticker on them and some would argue that these are clones.
    There are so many different manufacturers of this type of device its very hard to keep up with who the original developer or manufacturer is.

    However, we haven't ever had any cause for complaint as the chip works flawlessly.
    Its the code in the chip that does all the work, not the colour or shape of the PCB used.
    Its even possible to download the current code and make your own chips.....

    All i can say is that the chips that we sell are guaranteed to do what the were designed for and if there's every any problems them, we are happy to replace them..




    This response is very satisfactory from my point of view - especially:

    Its even possible to download the current code and make your own chips.....
     
  19. baabaa

    baabaa Active member

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    Last edited: Jul 2, 2003
  20. biglog9

    biglog9 Member

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    baabaa
    what you are saying is true
    doesnt matter what chip it is, but the code on the chip.

    is the hex code on the ubicom just enough of a difference to have problems??? the only way to know is to read the chip.

    maybe i will try and get an original magic3.1(dont know what the chip is) and ubicom chip and read both and see what the difference is. or search the net and see if anyone else has allready done this.

    what i dont like is that i see more and more people posting that there mod with the ubicom on it is not working.

    as to your supplier, they sound legit.

    i am going to email easybuy2000 and see what they say

    -Jason


     

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