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XGD3 PC Burner Max + Memorex: A Cheap Media Tutorial

Discussion in 'Xbox 360 - Modding & Hacking' started by MrGreaser, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. MrGreaser

    MrGreaser Regular member

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    I spent a lot of my last week familiarizing (banging my head against the wall in frustration) setting up my iHAS324-B drive to work with my system. After achieving my first successful burn with a Verbatim MKM-001-00 disc, I started looking into ways to use my cheap Memorex (RITEK S04-066). I have picked up a lot of information along the way and have compiled this information for you here in hopes that it will work for you on your own systems. You can probably use this tutorial with any other cheap media you may have at your disposal by teaching the firmware for your drive how it needs to burn it. Please move ahead at your own risk as all of this is for testing purposes only and as with all other methods you can potentially damage your system or disk drives. This may or may not work for your setup.

    You will be downloading MediaCodeSpeedEdit, PC Burner Max firmware for your drive, and KPROBE2 to test your burns. If you have questions about PC Burner Max Firmware and the process for flashing the firmware, check out this prolific post by funksoulb which includes a link to a PDF tutorial explaining the process. EliteModScene has provided a link for PC Burner Max Firmware here


    1. Read about/Download and install MediaCodeSpeedEdit here-->
    2. Open MediaCodeSpeedEdit and load the firmware (for your specific drive)...you will be modifying c4eva's PC Burner Max firmware to burn Memorex Media (teaching the firmware how to burn your media).
    3. Choose the media id that corresponds with the one you will be using to burn, in my case I double-clicked DVD+R9 RITEK S04-066 8X,6X,4X and chose RICOHJPN D00-001 2.4 to replace. Press "yes" to ok strategy replacement.
    4. Save the modified firmware and flash it to your drive.
    5. Restart your computer for good measure though you may not have to.
    6. Open IMGBurn and go to TOOLS>SETTINGS>WRITE. Clear the box that Performs OPC Before Write. Then go to TOOLS>SETTINGS>I/O and click Page 2 tab. Move buffer size between 71-73mb, Main Buffer Threshold to 25%, and Device to 50%. Press Ok
    7. Prepare to burn (Write Image File To Disc). On this page you can change the setting to burn at 2.4x and advanced settings (settings area bottom-right of the three icons in that area). Go to Lite-On tab...In the Change For: dropdown-list you will disable Forced HyperTuning, Online HyperTuning, and OverSpeed. If not enabled, Enable SmartBurn. Press OK.
    8. Burn your XGD3 and verify. It should verify at 100%.
    9. Check your burned image using KPROBE2 which can be downloaded here -->. Open and Set it to read at 4x.

    Team Xecuter forums state that the PI should be under 100 and the PIF under 4 for a quality burn. I will throw in my two cents by stating that even if your readings come in slightly higher, that you should be ok as long as you can install the game to your xbox 360 hard drive. The reason? On regular games higher spikes may indicate dirty discs or scratches...natural anomalies that occur with regular disc wear. Please don't take this as gospel, I could be wrong, it's simply my opinion.

    Good luck on all of your XGD3 game burns. Please let me know if this works for you or if you can contribute by adding more to this tutorial.

    -MrGreaser

    P.S. this is a work in progress, if you see anything that needs changing, added, or can be clarified, please let me know and I will do my best to refine this tutorial in a timely manner.
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2011
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  3. mulletinc

    mulletinc Regular member

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    Nice thread. Well done.

    Subbed.
  4. Modking30

    Modking30 Regular member

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    Yeah there is actually a post over at team x site on this. I have still not been able to use any of my discs even with the 2.4x lock. I use gigablock media. I'll have some verbs by next week.
  5. wabashman

    wabashman Active member

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    make sure the verbs are 003's not 001s. been trying to get the 001s to give kprobe results without much luck.
  6. cooll903

    cooll903 Regular member

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    thank you so much. Memorex (RITEK S04-066) are only what i use, my 360 won't read verbs at all.
  7. scoobpoo

    scoobpoo Member

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    how do you check what disc you have? when i run my burnt disc through kprobe, all i see is "DVD+R DL, RITEKS04B [RITEK CORPORATION]"

    when following this guide "Choose the media id that corresponds with the one you will be using to burn, in my case I double-clicked DVD+R9 RITEK S04-066 8X,6X,4X" i cant find RITEKS04B in MediaCodeSpeedEdit, would I just select RITEK S04-066 8X,6X,4X?
  8. cooll903

    cooll903 Regular member

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    you will see it on the rigth side, on disk info when you use imgburn
  9. MrGreaser

    MrGreaser Regular member

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    Use IMGBurn. Use Burn Image>check the panel on the right hand side which should give you a lot of info in regards to the media code. Use that info in conjunction with MediaCodeSpeedEdit. If there is nothing that matches exactly, you can always try something close and see if it helps. If it doesn't, you can always restore c4eva's firmware.

    Modking30, how is your system setup? Are you using a raid configuration? Disks all degfragged? Have you tried removing other devices? I had to use a SATA to IDE adapter to get my drive to burn discs properly.

    P.S. The only main differences between this and a few other tutorials I've seen are in the I/O settings which made a world of difference. Strongly recommend adjusting these, especially for cheap media...I think the KPROBE results will show an improvement.
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2011
  10. scoobpoo

    scoobpoo Member

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    MrGreaser you kick ass! My original xgd3 burns without this guide got a pi of 1186 and pif of 86, now im getting pi 37 and pif of 5

    I was curious and I tested my CODMW2 that I burned like a year ago and have been playing forever online and single player, and my pi was 236 and my pif was 13, so why do these numbers if are high mean anything if my CODMW2 has been working fine for over a year and with no ban?
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2011
  11. Modking30

    Modking30 Regular member

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    The weird thing for me is it always fails at the 50% mark of the burn
  12. Joe_1981

    Joe_1981 Regular member

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    Good guide, but I'm not sure I understand how this makes cheap discs work better. I thought the consensus was, if you have cheap, crap discs, they probably wouldn't play games very well. How can "teaching" the burner how to write your media change the fact that the edge of your cheap, blank discs likely has problems because of the crappy manufacturing process and dye that was used? If its a crappy, cheap disc, its a crappy cheap disc. I'm not sure I get how any program or firmware can alter that fact.
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2011
  13. scoobpoo

    scoobpoo Member

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    mine were originally failing at the %50 mark as well after flashing the dvd drive with the custom firmware. I played around with the Forced HyperTuning, Online HyperTuning, and OverSpeed and enabled opc. Eventually I got a 100% burn on Batman and others but with a high PI and PIF. It seemed whenever I didnt select verify it would fail...strange
  14. MrGreaser

    MrGreaser Regular member

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    scoobpoo, I'm glad this worked for you. If you're the only one that this helps then it was worth the time I spent writing this tutorial. Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.

    For the most part the reason why we want to aim to be below the recommended PI of 100 and PIF of 4 is because if we exceed these numbers we increase our chances of getting dirty disc error/failed game installation errors. However, the lasers in each of our drives perform data reads differently based on the wear and tear and/or dvd drive models. Those of us who have owned different consoles with different drives have probably encountered a burned game disc that will read on one system and may not read on the other. I may be wrong about this but from what I've gathered, the closer we can get to 0 on PI and PIF, the less likely we are to experience these errors across the different drives.

    I think the reason your CODMW2 burn worked in your console is that quite simply it was good enough for your laser to read without throwing up an error. It may have been just below the threshold...in other words, good enough. That burn may not play nice with someone else's console though. I've experienced more problems reading different types of media on Hitachi and Samsung drives...Lite-On and Benq have been less finicky for me. I've worked on hundreds of consoles over the years and there do seem to be exceptions from time to time.



    Modking30, the very same thing was happening to me at first and I was getting tired of wasting Verbatim discs. I finally got passed this by changing from SATA to IDE using an adapter/converter. It didn't play nice within a RAID configuration either. I removed my Sony Optiarc (my old trusty burner) for good measure (I was getting garbage/jargon symbols and letters in my bios settings, once removed this problem disappeared). I tried a number of different advanced features and finally got the results from the tutorial above. The biggest change I experienced however was when I messed with the I/O settings on page 2 inside IMGBurn. I got better burn results after testing with KPROBE2 on every media I was burning. Have only tried 3 different discs (all by Verbatim and Memorex) and have succesful burns using all of them, though it did take 12-15 failed burns to reach these results. I hope something written here helps you.

    Joe_1981, see my reply above to scoobpoo to see why cheap discs can perform better. The consensus is correct about cheap media...cheaper medias are finnicky to work with and usually are not worth the time or money invested. It's better to choose a media that has a proven track record across different computer configurations (such as Verbatim who has consistently performed better than its competitors). You are also buying into certain myths about media production that have been deemed innacurate or misleading. There are many reputable places where you can learn more about media production and the myths which have been perpetuated by user forums around the internet. Here's one source

    As long as a dye is capable of reflecting the data back to the laser in an acceptable manner, it doesn't matter whether the disc cost 1.00 or .10 to make. The cheaper dyes have lower lifespans, which is the reason why people avoid them. I don't expect to be playing most of my games longer then 10 or 20 years though...so why the fuss over dye qualities? We do need to be careful of the data we choose to write to these discs...this is where we actually get into problems...ex. CIV checks with Forza 4...the reason why PC Burner Max firmware was released in the first place and why we have a new 0800 firmware to read 100% of the XGD3 discs.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2011
  15. scoobpoo

    scoobpoo Member

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    just burnt the new goldeneye and I Got a PI of 38 and PIF of 4 thanks again MrGreaser, its working awesome for me with my shitty disks
  16. MrGreaser

    MrGreaser Regular member

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    That's better than what I'm getting so far scoobpoo. I'm still playing with my settings and it gets better sometimes and worse at others...still well under the threshold and verifying 100%. I got a huge stack of memorex discs to test on so I don't have to worry about running out any time soon. :)
  17. bleki25

    bleki25 Member

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    It's working great for me with my rebadged asus drw 24b3st to ihas524b and pro4media (ricohjpn-d01-67) disks. PI=55 PIF=5. Thank you so much.
  18. MrGreaser

    MrGreaser Regular member

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    Awesome bleki25, glad to hear you had success on the asus.
  19. brewsky27

    brewsky27 Member

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    Awesome! Got my first successful burn with this. Average PI of 60 and average PIF of 0.54. There's no such thing as having too low of a PIF is there?
  20. funksoulb

    funksoulb Regular member

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    Nope! A perfect (but impossible burn) would give you 0 PI and PIF.
  21. brewsky27

    brewsky27 Member

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    Just burned another one - PI 28 and PIF 0.48 with RITEK-S04-66 (Memorex) media. Drive is iHAS124-B. Thank you and great work MrGreaser.

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