So i decided to buy a 2nd ps3 as my first 1 is modded and I cant play online. I found a broken ps3 on craigslist with the ylod for $40, great deal I think, anyway I also found someone to fix it on craigslist as well for $30. Anyway he fixed it and gave me a 1 month warrenty in case the ylod comes back. So I think I got a pretty good deal $70 in total, and the PS3 was in great condition and the warranty seal was still in tact when I bought it. So my question is what is the likelihood that the ylod will return, are ylod fixes just temporary or can the fix last for a long time? I am just really happy with the deal I got but I'm worried that the ylod will come back, I just hope it will last for a long time.
YLODs are caused by excessive heat changes, which are caused by the firmware. Fix this or else it will come back. You can build a fan controller to fix this using the instructions form the first link, or you can buy ready-made PNP units from the second or third link: http://killerbug.net/PS3_E-Z_CHILL_ECDIY_ASSEMBLY.html http://www.fixmypcdoctor.com/home.php?cat=4 http://consoletek.biz/en/
Or you can go my way and add aditional fans: http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-285/ps3_overheat-913152/#5561464 Up and running for almost five months now. By the way, all 6 fans blow cold air into the PS3.
You could also do water cooling, or even phase-change cooling...but there comes a point when you have to wonder, "Why?"
thanks for the info guys! Thats quit the fan setup you got on your ps3 Eisherz, but hey if you made it to six months on a ylod ps3, I guess your doing something right. Ya I think I'm gonna mess around with some notetbook coolers as well. Do you think it will help if I take out my hardrive and power it to a external housing with a sata cable running into the ps3? I'm just wondering if the hardrive is powered externally maybe there will be less heat build up from the ps3.
Because I am non-US and not good at soldering. Water cooling has been done, check youtube. I doubt that. Those notebook harddrives don't give out that much heat or use up that much power. Would be interesting to know if this solution works at all, if the PS3 recognizes a harddrive it doesn't power itself at all.
Unless you have a 7200RPM hard drive, the heat savings will be minimal. The hard disk uses less power than the fan, so the load on the PSU is also minimal. A laptop cooler will not do much to reduce temperatures...it will cool the plastic on the bottom side of the case which could cool the system by 2-3C, except that the PS3 has a thermally controlled fan that will just compensate for that 2-3C anyway. Either make the fan inside run faster or add more fans...or go crazy and do watercooling like Pirate.
Just get the ezchill. It's simple to install and it works great. Plus your ps3 won't look like a prop from Wall-E. Aother idea is to place your ps3 in a mini-fridge. Cut a hole to bring the wires through. In all seriousness, get the ezchill.
I think I know which PS3 you bought as I had my eye on it as well. It was an OLD PHAT WHITE PS3 right?? I decided not to in the end as I know once you get a YLOD it will return no matter what you do to it. Unless you take it apart and do the things you are supposed to then it will always return. Plus it's a lot of a hassle and unless you are experienced on taking apart and putting PS3 back it could mean trouble. So for this and more sutffing around I didn't end up buying it. Also I didn't know what he has been doing to the PS3, it could last only a couple of months and then die on ya totally. But I guess that's the risk you take when you buy a second had item ^ ^ Hope it all works out for ya.
so Killerbug I just ordered the EZchill. The installation looks very easy. Anyway it just seems strange that all the exchill does is use the ps3's current fan but just increases the speed. What do you recommend keeping the speed at on the EZchill? should I just keep the fan on max? By keeping the fan on max setting will this hurt the fan or ps3?
Max speed won't hurt anything (except maybe your ears). I usually recommend doing a functional test...you want the exhaust air to be about 10-15C warmer than the ambient air while the system is under stress (playing a game). Colder isn't a problem...except for noise.
