Hey Hickster - i am using 4x media and the drive was 8x although i only tried to copy at 2x. However i decided to change the drive when i noticed even playback was becoming affected. I have now bought a NEC 2510 ( oh yeh the dual layered baby) and i am burning beautifully now on plus minus ritek and everything. Lovely drive if anyones interested in UK got it from www.ebuyer.com for £68 inc delivery, only a tenner more than the single layer 2500.
Flip Glad the download fixed your problem. Just going by personal experience. I have a bunch of the 321 software on my PC along with several others. The problems I had to solve were software interference. (Guess I need to do some cleaning with all this software.) I have the DVDXCopy Platinum. Don't know about ClonerDVD2, I've got DVDClone2. I've kept up the Microsoft updates and have never had to download ASPI drivers. The ASPI updates, if needed, were possibly in the Updates. Seems this is off topic as how the problem dealt with changing a setting. _X_X_X_X_X_[small][bold]'brobear'[/bold] [/small]
Hey brobear, XP updates dont resolve the ASPI issue. I am an ex-321er, tier 2 support, and ASPI is one of the simpler resolutions to ripping issues or just bad burns. XP updates never resolve this. They plug the holes in the OS. ASPI isnt one. It just so happens that nero and certain others have an aspi software layer built into there programs. If you havent had to update APSI, good 4 u.
Don't guess anybody saw that qualified [bold]maybe[/bold] in there. Updates definitely keep you up on the latest DirectX and other necessary niceties for operating the XP OS. ASPI was included in some Windows OS (Don't think it came up front in XP). And as I said, I was speaking from personal experience of not having to download ASPI versions other than what came on the system. I'm running XP Home. I have GamesXCopy and both versions of Platinum running on my machine now. Excellent quality video and no recording problems (lets keep our fingers crossed). No Patin Couffin drivers needed either. I have the Nero 6 package with Recode2. Here is a list of other software in there: AnyDVD, CloneDVD2, InterVideo's DVDCopy2, DVD2One, DVD Decrypter, DVD Shrink, CopyToDVD, Blindwrite, Adobe Premiere Pro, and Roxio. (Yes, Roxio dwells happily on my system and I can still use Platinum). [bold]Seems like everybody wants to talk about Advanced SCSI Programming Interface (ASPI). The ASPI for Win32 is available from Adaptec Corporation and can be downloaded from http://www.adaptec.com. Contact Adaptec for questions on ASPI installation, use, or coding. That should cover any more ASPI questions. Adaptec distributes it and should have the answer for any questions.[/bold] ASPI may have been a simple fix in a lot of cases. Like this case, ASPI is not always the issue. As a tier 2 tech for 321, I guess you're aware the worst problem 321 had, software interference. Tech support had the big list of software that could cause problems. Some people gave up instead of deleting all their programs. My problem turned out to be InCD (deleted it) and all I have to do is turn the other programs off. The techs had mentioned ASPI and Patin Couffin and at the same time they sent me the huge prepared bulletin they had prepared. They knew they had a problem. I thought it something else when they said you had to delete programing for a fix. A person had to choose either 321 or the other software they were using. I think I would have asked for a refund before doing all that deleting.
Get down, and don't use the most recent verion of ASPI 4.7+ for XP, go for the force ASPI solution and get the 4.60 version. I've got to say though that I use XP Pro and althugh I've installed the ASPI drivers (compulsive habit),many-a-time I've received no gains as a result. In many cases they just don't seem to be needed. It's software dependent. fortunately Feurio and Nero have their own. BTW, there's a lot of OEM quality rebranded Ritek floating around and they do have problems. _X_X_X_X_X_[small] "Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth." Sherlock Holmes (by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, 1859-1930)[/small]
Sophocles, I live and I learn. Thanks for the info. The tool Praetor mentioned does a good job ID-ing the disc manufacturers. The DVD Identifier is probably the best choice for doing the particular job. InfoPro does the job and has more function, but they drop a ton of adware on the user. Looks like a person is going to have to start checking the manufacturer and not the brand of the DVDs. One manufacturer, Ricoh, manufactures discs for at least four major brands including Verbatim. I wonder if the jpn following Ricoh in the ID stands for Japan. Is it true Mitsubishi is one of the preferred manufacturers for quality discs?
I concur with Sophocles there are a lot of OEM quality rebranded Ritek floating around and they do have problems. Disks from Supermediastore are suspect. I had no problems with disks from: Meritline and Allmediaoutlet. Just a FYI.
I started about 2 months ago and was running into all kinds of problems with my media but after trying every combination I could I finally got it down pat. I don't even buy expensive media anymore. I use the crap stuff and I have tried it with four different burners (Pioneer, LG,Sony,Lite-on)and they all worked with thiese tips. By the way, you won't have any problems with rewritable DVD's cause they are very high quality for rewriting so they work great all the time if you can get them on sale. As for using cheap media, I found out that no matter which burner you are using you need to rip and burn with the same device. Using a seperate DVD player to rip and then burning with another device is just asking for problems as the firmware may not be exactly compatible and you get data drop out errors from player to burner. So rip with the same device and burn with the same device, same firmware for both jobs. Next, try and us media that has very little writing or paint on top as this can cause the laser to flare when it is burning hence the second suggestion to take off the sides of your computer to let it get as cool as possible. Even low level lasers generate heat and the paint on top can gather the heat in spots and cause burnouts. Try to use clear tops or disks with very little paint and writing on them. This rule does not apply to expensive media like Verbatim etc but I cannot afford them at the rate I use them. I buy stacks of silver tops at $29.99 for 50 and lose maybe 4 or 5 in the whole pile but that is because of the next reason. You have to make sure the source DVD is spotless and as scratch free as possible. This s very important. Clean them and check for marks cause this causes data dropouts as well. I usually rent a movie just as it is coming out to avoid that and I always check the disk before I leave the store. Next.....forget about labelling your back ups. I know it looks cool and professional but trust me...it creates heat dams when you play them and the backups start skipping and freezing and once they start that they don't stop and are coasters. Just use a very thin permanent marker to put the name on and decorate the case instead. This is great for rewritables cause sometimes you get sick of a movie and you can just write over it and then add the new name to the DVD top,scratch the old title out and away you go. One more little tip to help.....use DVD Shrink and re-author and drop all the crap(subtitles,menus,previews etc.) out to avoid compressing too much. It's the movie you after in any case isn't it? Also, if the movie is really long split it into two disks using DVD Shrink so the movie is not compressed at all. It works for really long movies like Seven Sumaris and The Great Escape. Just use the splitting feature in Shrink and find a logical break in the movie to end the first part, back it up, burn it and then do the rest of the movie the same way. I know it can be a pain having to change a movie half way through but it's worth it to get a perfect working copy of a movie for your collection. Doing everything the way I have described seems to work with either the TS video format or ISO format. I have burned over 350 movies and they are all still woking and look great. I hope this helps and urge you to give it a try as I and about 10 people I know are burning this way and no complaints(except for scratched source disks) from anyone. Happy burning!!
Whoa, I was going to give a scathing review of this. Since it is a newbie, I'll just say, don't try this at home. If it works for ya, go with it. As for the rest of the world, there is a lot of bad advice here. Heat pockets, take the PC apart, use the cheap stuff, don't use the other DVD drive??? And the biggy, use Shrink to split movies? _X_X_X_X_X_[small][bold]'brobear'[/bold] [/small]
I'll go one step further and add that if you have $30 disposable dollars and you spend a lot on media, then don't use shrink at all. If your broke and shrink is all that you can afford, use it.
When I joined the forum,, I came here to add to my knowledge base and share experiences. I've heard of some bad advice but thats a lot of bad advice.. Hey son,, stay here and learn.. A little knowledge is dangerous!!!
Be more specific, such as which advice was bad and why. Part of sharing experiences is benefiting from them and if someone didn't tell you that DVD Shink isn't the best and that there's a lot better out there, then they would be doing you an injustice. Instead of defending what you think you know, why don't you find out what you don't know. Try some other transcoders and see how they compare. _X_X_X_X_X_[small] "Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth." Sherlock Holmes (by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, 1859-1930)[/small]
Sophocles, Guess I took an easy out, though I did give a string of what was off with the rhetorical questions. I wouldn't want to field the where and how on that post for the simple reason this Newbie hit just about every way not to do things. You'd think someone who knew a lot about DVD Video was trying to yank our collective chain. This particular post by the newbie covers so much, I would suggest different threads to address the separate issues. Just pick the problem and search the forums. It would take a book to cover so many problems and wrong ways to do things.
Ooops! _X_X_X_X_X_[small] "Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth." Sherlock Holmes (by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, 1859-1930)[/small]
Just did, left a message. Quick way to subscribe to the thread. ...Ditto, Ditto... May hafta be a geezer to remember ditto. _X_X_X_X_X_[small][bold]'brobear'[/bold] [/small]
Total and absolute malarkey. The firmware has absolutely no affect on the actual data being transferred to your hard drive and back again. The drive will either read it or it won't. This would qualify as something called "pure fantasy". How exactly does a laser "flare"? Yes, it is good advice to make sure the source is clean but to suggest that a bad burn is caused by the source disc is unfounded. If the software is able to rip the original without any CRC or I/O errors the rip is good. Any problems with the burn would be related to either a faulty burner or low quality media. Someone needs to read the forum rules, especially #5. Sound advice although I don't buy the "heat dam" theory. Labels have a tendency to spin the disc out of balance which causes read errors. No argument there. Good standard practice. Some good, sound advice mixed in with some very creative and unfounded personal theory in my opinion _X_X_X_X_X_[small] JMLS-166S/Plextor PX-708A/Plextor Premium[/small]
Hiya Neph, Hehehe I was wondering when that guy was gonna get jumped.. You a man after my own heart. Have Fun...
