I have a Lite-On 832S that support burning DVD+R DL at 2.4x. I wasted 5 disc DVD+R DL when i tried to burn Dual layers video. The last dual layer disc I burned, I use DVD Decrypter "Iso Write Mode", and it burned all the way 100% complete. Then it "write lead in" and that's where it start to make cracking noises again like it did to my previous dual layers disc I burnt. As if it couldn't write lead in successfully or something. And then the disc weren't playable in any dvd players, not even my dvd writer recognized it either.
Waterbird, Welcome to the forum. The " cracking noises " has me bothered me as there should really be no noises made by the burner. Try this to see if it is the burner. Take any movie you have already done on a DVD-5 and use Shrink to re-read the disk and to make an image file and burn automatically w/ DVDDecrypter( if you have them use an RW disk so you do not waste anything). If that works properly then it might be the blank d/l layer disks you are using. What brand disk are you using . I use Verbatim D/L and have had no problems doing D/L disks
Thanks for the response. My burner burned single layer discs fine, and it write lead in successfully with no problems and i even try the MDS image burnt by DVD Decrypter and it burnt sucessfully too. Its just the dual layer discs that causes this cracking noises problem when it write lead in. I uses Verbatim DVD+R DL too and that's all I use. I haven't tried any other manufacturer yet, Verbatim was my first since it goes on sale for $2 per disc in pack of 10. Before that, I bought 3 Verbatim DVD+R DL for $10 and all 3 were burnt with problems too.
Waterbird , Is the burner a Sony hacked to be a Liteon or is it a true Lite-on. Lite-on makes some of the Sony burners and people are hacking it to a Lite-on Looks like the firmware for that burner is up to VSOJ. Do you know what your burn's firmware is up to. You can D/L DVDinfoPro ( free) and it will tell you. Or DVDDecrypter will also tell you what the firmware is up to
No, my DVD burner is Lite-On which I told my brother to bought last year in BestBuy. it's not a rebadged Sony fortunatedly. Yeah, I updated my firmwares frequently when it is available. Around early last month, I notice Lite-On made a new firmware VSOJ for 832S since September 2005, so I download it and days later I flashed it. I didn't flash it right away after I download it because i want to compare the burn quality difference between VSOG and VSOJ for Verbatim Dual layer disc. When the first disc burnt with problem, I flashed it and the 2nd and 3rd disc also burnt with problems too... But of course, I remembered last year when I am not familiar with firmware update. I googled it and found some firmwares, I downloaded it and updated it...I believe is CG2B, CG3B, and CG3E... Then like a month later or so, someone suggested me to this site that notify you when the firmware update from the OEM, so I go there and downloaded vSOE for my 832S. I didn't know CG3B or CG3E weren't made by Lite-On but possibly by hackers. I thought little to no importance of it. But I update the firmware to VSOE, and later to VSOG, and now my version is VSOJ. So, I am not sure if this C2GE or whatever could still affect it even though I flash my burner to the latest firmware since last month? If so, do you know how do I go back from C2GE to the original firmware for Lite-On?
Waterbird The original firmware is VS01. http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_firmware.php?category=4&manufactor=17 I tried to figure out where you might have gotten: CG2B, CG3B, and CG3E but I can not figure it out as none of the other updates for any Lite-on mentions those letters and numbers. I also am not sure you can go backward w/ the lite-on firmware. You can on a few burners but not all of them. Before you try this either e-mail or call Lite-on and inquire. You can also ask a good repair shop as they should know
I think your last flash of the drive overwrites the previous flash. I do know you can destroy a drive if you flash it with the incorrect firmware, and those drives are usually good doorstops after that. Most cant be saved by trying the correct flash. That is why it is very important to do a correct drive/firmware match-up. I get my firmware updates from this site only, and maybe from the drive manufactures home page. http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_search.php
Car.Mike and MaxBurn, this is the site that I got the firmware CG3E from... http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html From the link you posted, forum.rpc1.org, I clicked on VS01 and it linked me to CodeGuide. Look under LiteOn SOHW-832S and on the lists, it have this: • CG2B/CG3B/CG3E/CG4E/CG5E - patched - improved +R burn quality (old), That is where I download it from...but that was last year...and the link do have VS01 firmware, but after i download the firmware, it said it's a stock version...and I doubt it's from OEM, so I delete it instead of flashing it.
Waterbird Here is the Lite-On site for Firmware: Looks like if you go to the earliest firmware that should be the original but I would still e-mail Lite-on to verify http://www.liteonit.com/ODD/English/e_downloads/e_firmware_dvd rw.asp
I still have vSOG and older vSOE versions and I try to flash my VSOJ back to older VSOG or VSOE and it didn't flash at all. As if it knew my version is the latest and didn't want to go backward. But I just wasted two more DVD+R DL discs trying to burn the Matrix as a try, first I tried ImgBurn this time, and since it didn't burn successfully. I go back to DVD Decrypter to burn and it burn with problems too... Both files I burnt using the MDS file that I extract from the Disc using DVD Decrypter and that is what it recommended for dual layer burns, but unfortunatedly. For some strange reason this time around, it didn't even burn at all. The burner crash, I couldn't even close the dvd decrypter or ImgBurn programs, so I have to restart in order to eject the disc out and both the disc are ruined. When I use Nero CDspeed to check the disc. it said disc not inserted... Anyway, here is the log of DVD Decrypter: I 21:26:06 Initialising SPTI... I 21:26:06 Searching for SCSI / ATAPI devices... I 21:26:06 Found 1 DVD-ROM and 1 DVD±RW! I 21:31:03 Operation Started! I 21:31:03 Source File: C:\THE_MATRIX_16X9LB_N_AMERICA.MDS I 21:31:03 Source File Sectors: 4,098,336 (MODE1/2048) I 21:31:03 Source File Size: 8,393,392,128 bytes I 21:31:03 Source File Implementation Identifier: UDF Toshiba DVD Video I 21:31:03 Destination Device: [1:0:0] LITE-ON DVDRW SOHW-832S VS0J (D (ATA) I 21:31:03 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: MKM-001-00) (Speeds: 2.4x) I 21:31:03 Destination Media Sectors: 4,173,824 I 21:31:03 Write Mode: DVD I 21:31:03 Write Type: SAO I 21:31:03 Write Speed: 2.4x I 21:31:03 Link Size: Auto I 21:31:03 Test Mode: No I 21:31:03 BURN-Proof: Enabled I 21:31:03 Optimal L0 Data Zone Capacity: 2,054,960 I 21:31:03 Optimal L0 Data Zone Method: Copied From Original Disc I 21:32:49 Filling Buffer... I 21:32:51 Writing LeadIn... [bold]W 21:37:47 Failed to Write Sectors 0 - 31 - Write Error W 21:37:47 Retrying (1 of 20)... W 21:41:45 Retry Failed - Write Error W 21:41:45 Retrying (2 of 20)... I 21:42:12 Abort Request Acknowledged W 21:46:20 Retry Failed - Write Error W 21:46:20 Retrying (3 of 20)...[/bold]
This is the only thing we have no tried and you probably have done so. Try cleaning the burner lens either w/ compressed air or a disk cleaner. After this I am at a loss as to what is wrong. You just might need to replace it w/ a newer model
Updated, so I tried cleaning the burner with a CD/DVD disc cleaner. Then days later, I burned another +R DL disc and it only burned 38% through before it froze, I left the room with the door closed. My brother came in probably pressed eject and left immediatedly. How did I know this? Well, I came back and check and noticed the door was opened. I look at the time from DVD Decrypter's log and it said error at the around the same time my brother came in. So, while I was in the room, my brother pretend to just came in again acting like nothing happens. I asked if he came in the room, he lied that he said no. Bingo! He may slipped away with his lies if he had said he did came in the room but he didn't touch anything...my brother is a jerk, makes me wanted to hit him. Oh well, I will be more careful next time. So, this time I burned the same dual layer video again on +R DL. And I am in my room pretty much the whole entire time. It burned 100% complete, then when it start to write lead in and finalizing the disc. It makes this clipping noises again. Then a message appear saying it finish burning. But none of my dvd players can play it, neither does my dvd burner and dvd-rom. So, feeling disappointed and depressed, I don't want to waste another disc. Today, I tried burning dual layer again on a different video. So, like the usual, use DVD Decrypter - ISO Read mode, then afterward. Open the .MDS file, and ISO Write it. it burn fine, write lead in seems fine, when it was 100% complete. It start to finalize the disc. And it does this clipping noises again. Then it finished. I tried the disc on my dvd players (sony and panasonic), presto! both of them recognize the disc and play it. Although it does take a bit longer time for it to recognzie the disc. I find that panasonic couldn't read layer 2, but sony read both fine. Also, I thought my dvd burner automatically change booktype from DVD+R DL to DVD-ROM. But it doesn't seems like it as the CDSpeed software read it as DVD+R DL as the booktype. Weird. I try both Kprobe and CDSpeed to read the disc quality. Both couldn't read it. kprobe read like .02% of it then froze, saying some sort of error sectors or something. Anyway, I am somewhat happy that my dvd players play it. Its still doesn't stop me from trying to burn dual layers with this burner. I will try to explore some more. Next time I burn a dual layer, I will try 2x speed instead of its Max of 2.4x to see if that will helps.
Waterbird Sure sounds like your drive is bad or going out. I never heard a clicking noise on any of my burners during lead in write. The disc speeds up, but clicking noises sounds like something mechanical like maybe the laser bumping in to the disc? Also, the best DL to use is a Verbatim DL. I have burnt 15 of these so far with no problems. Some ppl have problems with other DL media manufactures. The verbs cost a bit more than the other brands, but they work 100% of the time for me. I also got them on sale for $2.00 each. Never tried any other brands for DL burns. If the Verb DL doesn't work, then it looks more like the burner being bad. I have used DVD Shrink for DL burns. All you have to do is change the target size to DVD9 . It worked fine for me, and Shrink calls up Nero for the burn (in my case), and Nero booktypes the DL to DVD-ROM. If the drive is still under warrenty, i would exchange it.
So far, I am using the one and only Verbatim DVD+R DL discs. Now, I do feel the problems lie within the DVD Burner itself...it write lead in fines, burn 100% complete fine, then when it start to close, finalize, or write lead out...DVD Decrypter or ImgBurn only manage to finalize or write lead out to only 2% to 3% then it starts to make clipping noises. It wasn't finalized 100% even though it said disc burned complete. Not just DVD Decrypter, even DVDShrink also encounter similiar problems when writing lead out too, so are DVD Cloner. All this only happens when writing lead out to Dual layer discs. This Burner was bought late August of last year, so I don't believe its still in warranty. This is the 10th and the last disc that i burned with problems. Here is the pic of Disc info from Nero CD/DVD speed. Any ideas?
And here is the pic of a single layer disc info that were burn successfully. Like most single layers disc that were burned successfully, I noticed on the extended information it said [bold]Recorder info: recorded with SONY, SONY DW-D18A[/bold]... but my burner is a Lite-On SOHW-832 DVD burner. Why did it say it's a sony? Honestly, I am just guessing but I am not really sure and can't really remember but late last year, I remember flashing to a firmware update when i didn't know any better that I flashes to 3rd party firmware instead from its official OEM firmware since I didn't know about it. I am not sure if that what causes my burner to believe it's a Sony DVD burner instead of a Lite-On... But since then, I have updated to 3 differents firmware, VSOE, VSOG, and recent VSOJ...so, I am not really sure what could have causes the problems with burning dual layers, especially when write lead-out or closed the disc... On the Raw Date for this single layer disc, it shown this information: Pre-recorded information in lead-in (0EH) while the dual layer disc it only show, Physical Format Information 00H... So, what should I do now? I won't buy any more dual layers disc for quite sometimes until a DVD burner support burning quality of 16x +R DL comes out so I can upgrade. Till then, I will just burned single layers disc and any video that are dual layers will be compressed more to fit the disc for now unless I can figure out what is going on with my burner...
Waterbird I think you have the right idea: There are many good DL burner drives out there, and it looks like you are going to have to get one, if you want to burn DL discs, as i think your drive is wacked in some way. Maybe the un-official flash you did a while back told the drive to do something non-standard on a DL disc, like write to an area not used in the Lead in/out process? I am only guessing. Many Sony drives are re-bagged Lite-ons. In other words Lite on made them, and Sony slapped it's name on the drive. This is from your codeguys link: and this is what the firmware page shows for a Sony DW-D18A they still make belt drives? Notice the OEM. Have you ran Nero Info Tool on your system, and does it report your drive as a Lite-on, or a SONY DW-D18A ? Sure sounds like something got messed up in the un-official flash, and there may not be a way to fix it, other than getting another drive. The price of burners has come down quite a bit, and you can probably get a very good one for less than 50 bucks. It doesn't help that your Bro is coming in and messing with your burns. I hate to suggest buying a new drive as your fix, but it sure sounds like you would be in DL burning heaven with a new DL burner replacement. Stick with a name brand, like the ones DVD Decrypter IDs on booktype settings, and you should have an easy fix for your problem. The costing you money part is a pain, but sometimes that is the only way to fix a failed hardware issue. You were using the best DL media out there, and drives don't normally make wierd noises on lead in/out. It's speed changes fast/slow for that and that make some noise, but not clicking. I bought my LG laserscribe burner, and it is a great little drive. Burnt 15 DLs with it so far, and all turned out perfect. I even got some good DL burns out of a memorex DL burner i have in another system, but i would stick with a better name brand, and i do not suggest you by the memorex drive. Good luck, and start saving you money for a new burner, unless you find a way to fix this without replacing the drive. I can't think of anything else as you have tried many different burning programs, and all fail. That points to drive or media, and we can rule out media in this case.
Maxburn, Thanks for the suggestion, I haven't tried that before and now I did and it said that it's a Lite-On though...strange indeed... and two of the first ever DVD-R discs that I ever burnt using one and only Lite-On DVD burner said: But my burner is a lite-on, and I never flashes my burner to any firmware yet when if first bought my burner. So, why does it says it was recorded by Sanyo? I agree that my burner uses gear, not belt drive, so maybe me flashing to Codeguide firmware messes it up or something...but shouldn't my burner say it's a Lite-On in the first place? Why does it say Sanyo before any flashing were made? Thanks for the help btw. I guess if I can't figure out what's really going on and how to solve it, then I will hold out buying any more DLs discs. Again, I will wait till burners support burning DVD+R DL at 16x speed before I bother to upgrade. Then till, I will do fine withe single layer burning.
I saw my own lite-on burn reported as burned by a sony also, and i think i was using DVD Identifier Pro when i saw that. I haven't done any cross flash of my firmware, so maybe the media id programs are reading a code that tells them Sony/Lite-on.. is close enough for them. Your drive still sounds flakey, and you will probably have to replace it. Just though i would let you know that the Lite-on reported as a Sony burn seems to be a common thing, and doesn't seem to cause any problems on it's own.
Hi I just have a quick question... I'm running Win XP Pro SP2, I just recently bought a IOMagic Lightscribe 16x internal dvd-rw writer. I burned 5 discs and they were fine, just the dvd movie onto the disc. I then went out and purchased HP DVD-R lightscribe discs. I used Nero 6.6 to burn to the dvd and the function failed. So I put that out to the garbage. Next trial, I burned with Nero 7 Premium and that burned the movie GREAT! However, I lightscribed the front. And I put it into a dvd player and it didn't work. I didn't check before I lightscribed though to see if the movie worked b/c I figured the 5 discs before worked perfectly. Does the lightscribe have any effect on the dvd-side of the disc? I was just wondering. I used Nero 7 to burn the dvd and I used SureThing 4.0xx deluxe to lightscribe... If anyone can provide any help on this, it'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
cavalieri The lightscribe process should have no effect whatsoever on the other side of the disc. You flip the disc over, and that laser can't burn thru to the other side. Sounds like you have something out of wack with your set-up. If you could post the nero burn log, it will show us where you are having problems. I know where Nero6 log hides, but i don't know the whole path for Nero7. In 6 it is program files>ahead>nero>nerohistory.txt. Just be sure to edit out your serial numbers from the log. We only need to see the last log, as that history lists many burns, and the last one is the one we are interested in. It will be seperated by something like =======NERO HISTORY===== and will list your serial number and name after that. The logs show exactly what is going on, and where your problems are. Part of your problem is probably going to be that HP media. I use Verbatim lightscribe discs and never had one fail to burn or be read by players.
