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dm4 lite or pro?

Discussion in 'PS2' started by mcgirkz, Dec 13, 2004.

  1. mcgirkz

    mcgirkz Member

    Dec 13, 2004
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    i may look into getting a mod chip for my v3 ps2.
    i think i'll go the solder route as, from what i have read, they have the most compatability and are set up for future upgrades. please correct me if i am misunderstood.
    i have all the necessary hardware and software, aside from the modchip. i am still uncertain about the whole bios thing? do i have to flash the bios if running either mod chip? as well where does the ELF file fit in? does it need to be used once and then they are both good for auto boot? is there any benefit to storing the ELF on the flash memory of the pro version?
    is ther a tutorial of what to do once the modchip is installed?

  2. Icemonkey

    Icemonkey Active member

    Feb 28, 2003
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    The onboard ELF support is an optional feature of both modchips and is not necessary to boot backups. it was intended for storing and booting homebrew PS2 software without the use of a boot device such as the DVD drive, memory card, HDD, etc. The DMS4 Pro simply has more storage capacity for such ELF's than the Lite version.
  3. mcgirkz

    mcgirkz Member

    Dec 13, 2004
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    ok so i after the chip is installed. i just install/flash the toxic 1.1 bios via CD and i'm ready to go?

    bump for a guide
  4. mcgirkz

    mcgirkz Member

    Dec 13, 2004
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    found this at: http://web02063.prolocation.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4198

    [qoute]Covered here:
    -"Should I attempt this? "
    -Placement of the Modchip
    -Flashing the Bios
    -Wire Definitions and what they do
    -Some troubleshooting options

    Lots of you have asked should I attempt this? You have to ask yourself if :
    Do you want to spend the money on the tools?
    Do you have the patience if something goes wrong?
    Do you want it running in one day?

    Side note: If you have a v1-4 or a v12 you may want to research it more as the 1-4 version hard hard to mod and the v12 has laser issues. The laser issues are fixable but might be a little more complicated.

    The easiest thing to do would be to take it to someone that's done it a ton of times and knows how to do it with their eyes closed. I tried it for my first time and actually enjoyed it so if you decide it's something you would like to try and figure "what the hell" then read on.

    Tools needed for the job:
    Soldering Iron : You can buy a soldering station which usually holds the iron plus has a controller to adjust the heat of the iron OR you can buy just the iron. The recommended wattage seems to be 15 watts but some people go as high as 30watts.
    Soldering Tip: You want it as small as possible. I used a .8mm but .4mm would've been easier to use as some of the places you need to get to are VERY small.
    Desoldering Wick or Desoldering Vacuum: both of these will save you ass in case you accidentally drop a piece of solder on the board or solder 2 legs of the bios chip together. Which is better ? Depends on where you need it or who you talk to. I've used both at different times. (The modchip reseller might include the desoldering wick.)
    Solder: You need rosin core solder about .6mm (.022") to 1mm. I prefer the .6 as it's easier to get into the tight spots. (The modchip reseller might include this.)
    Wire: For all connections EXCEPT the power and ground you can use 30awg or 32awg. 30awg will be a little stronger. For the power and ground use 20awg or 22awg. Most go with 20awg. (Again, some modchip resellers will supply this with the chip.)
    Electical Tape: To hold down the wires on the board and to protect the modchip by taping the top of it so it doesn't short out when you put the console back together.

    These Items below you can use to make things easier but are not required.
    Adhesive Putty or Double Sided Tape: I used putty to hold the modchip to the board. You can buy this from a stationary store. It has enuf strength to hold the chip in place while soldering yet you can pull it off if need be without leaving residue. The other option was hot glue but it can be quite messy.
    Lighted Magnifier: Most just clamp to the table or sit on the desk. They come with different diopter lenses. The one I bought was 3x which helped out a ton but a 5x would've been nice. They can be quite expensive but I puchased mine for 50 bucks.
    The last optional thing I had was a 8x magnifier that basically would allow you to see a hair on a mosquitoes back. Nice thing about this one is that it has a light built in.
    Came in handy when I was double checking every point.

    What Version of PS2 Do I Have?
    If you are confused about what version of PS2 you have then check it out here.

    Q)Whats the difference between gap and no gap?
    A) Gap and no gap simply refer to the spacing of the legs down each side of the bios chip. Gap means that there is a break between the two sets of chip legs. No gap means that the line of chip legs is continous all the way down the bios chip. If you take another look at the two bios diagrams for each, the difference is obvious.

    If you've ordered the DMS4 chip then chances it will come with another small board. This board is a laser fix for the v12. There are some other fixes out there that might work better so do a little research as new and better fixes come out all the time.

    There are sites all over the web that show you how to take your console apart so I'm not including that in this thread. With modchip in hand you should be ready to solder.

    Placement of Modchip: There are different places you can put the modchip. Every version of PS2 is different so you will have to be the judge as I can't include pics for every one. You don't want the wire too long so keep them as short as possible without making them tight. Here are a few installs so you can get a feeling as to what it should look like. Although mine (v7,the top one) is not as nice as the other two, but it still worked fine.
    You don't see it here but I put electricians tape loosely over my modchip before I put it back together so as not to short out anything.

    After you have glued/puttied your beloved modchip to the ideal place ,you're ready to install it. Everyone will have a different preference here. The road I took was to solder all points on the motherboard while leaving and extra inch or two past the modchip so I can re route it later and cut it to perfect length. Some might prefer to solder the modchip points first. Whatever works best for you. I found it easiest to put my soldering iron on the point I was going to solder, heat it up ,dab a bit of solder on the point while hot then insert my wire on to the point that has hot mound of solder, take the soldering iron away and its done. If you're unsure then try practicing on a old computer part or something that doesn't matter.

    It's way easier to add more solder then it is to take it off so add in very small amounts. Also DO NOT hold you soldering iron on the point too long especially if its on the bios chip as it will start to melt the plastic. One or two seconds should be plenty. After your all done it is HIGHLY recommended to double check all points in terms of soldering and making sure that "E" goes to "E" , "O" goes to "O" etc. Sometimes "O" can look like "Q" and "E" might look like "F".

    Flashing the Bios
    If you've installed a DMS4 modchip then you have to flash the bios before you can do anything else. To do that you need to download Toxic 1.1 bios OR Toxic .1 OS. The 1.1 bios is for DMS4 Lite and the .1 OS is for the DMS4 Pro. The .1 OS has the flash for the bios incorporated in it. You CANNOT use the .1 OS for the DMS4 Lite. After you finished downloading and unzipping the files, you need to burn the image to a cdr. Use Nero for this as it works best. In Nero, find"burn image" then select the .cue file and hit record. Don't record it at the fastest setting , instead pick a slow one so the data writing is better. Once done, you should have three files on the CDR, they are:
    1. system (1KB) special dial extension
    2. TB_UPG11.ELF (164 KB)
    3. ZZZ.ZZZ (28 610 KB)

    If you see a file with a .cue extension then you've burnt the cd incorrectly.
    Once done correctly,
    Turn the unit on, put the cd in and it should read it and from there you will be able to update the bios. It's very important not to turn off the machine or interupt it as its updating. Once done you should see the Toxic logo on your screen and your set to go!

    Wire Definitions and what they do. It helps with troubleshooting.

    A = 3.3v
    B = Ground
    T, P, W, U, V = CDVD data points (T is only needed on V8+ if you want to use DVD-RW).
    O = CDVD OE signal, one of the more sensetive wires. If this is too long then media autnentication may fail causing RSOD.
    C = Eject (Q is used INSTEAD OF C on V12 systems).
    D-N = BIOS points. D and E are the more sensetive out of these. If D or E are too long it may result in black screen.
    X = SCEX line, needed for booting PSX backups

    And finally Troubleshooting

    Things to keep in mind when soldering these wires:

    -are your ground and power wires 20awg?
    -are your wires short and not dangling all over the place?
    -have you shorted out any points with solder?
    -are all wires in the right place.?
    -are all wires in the right place - double check?
    -can you get the "DMS Disabled" screen up when you hold the square on start up?
    -when you put your system back together is the chip shorting out on any metal?
    -does your Toxic bios 1.1 cd have three files on it or one with the extension .cue?

    PS2 games fail to authenticate:
    Check points M-W. Fix your power and ground wires. Ensure that M is laid flat against the motherboard.

    PS1 games fail to authenticate:
    Check point X. Fix your power and ground wires.

    PS2 fails to boot (black screen):
    Check points D-N. Fix your power and ground wires. Ensure that D and E are laid flat against the motherboard. Fix your power and grounds. Make sure you haven't bridged any pins on the BIOS chip of the PS2.

    PS2 acts as though no chip were installed:
    Check point C (Eject) or if it's v12 then it will be Q. If this wire is not connected, the chip may think you are holding down Eject and go in to Sleep Mode. The same will happen if C is bridged with ground, but in that case you will not be able to turn the PS2 on from stand-by using the Eject button. Fix your power and grounds.

    The ground wire is probably the one you need to look out for the most. It needs to be short and thick, and have a good connection to the motherboard. Out of the consoles DMS team received from forum members for our investigations, many of these consoles had problems caused by bad ground connection. The problem is that the pads where you solder ground to dissipate heat you apply with a soldering iron so its quite hard to get a good connection here. You need to use plenty of flux and a HOT soldering iron, otherwise you'll get a sub-par joint of the wire to the motherboard which will result in problems.

    Its important to note that the above guidelines go for ALL modchips, not just DMS4. Its not like DMS4 is ultra-sensetive, in fact it one of the, if not the most stable mod on the market.

    The most common problems were 1) black screen on boot, and 2) "red screen of death" while attempting to boot homebrew software via the factory default flash such as the ToxicBIOS upgrade disc.

    Below is a list problem consoles that were sent back to DMS for inspection .You can note the problem and solution to see if the same thing has happened to your PS2 and verify that the same mistake in installation hasn't happened to you.

    Symptom: RSOD while booting upgrade disc
    Problem: Installation with modchip was fine, in this case the problem was actually the burnt upgrade CD-R. The upgrade image was not written correctly resulting in corrupt data on the CD-R.
    Solution: Make sure you use up-to-date burning software, which knows how to handle BIN/CUE images (2352bytes/sector). We recommend Nero. This is a common problem, please make sure your burning software can handle the cd images properly!

    Symptom: RSOD while booting upgrade disc
    Problem: Wires were not secured properly so when the console was put back together the C wire (for the EJECT signal) was damaged. This means the modchip will never have known that a new disc was put in, so when the upgrade CD-R was inserted re-authentication would not have taken places resulting in a RSOD.
    Solution: We replaced the C wire and secured all the wires properly before re-assembling the console. Everything worked perfectly after this.

    Symptom: RSOD while booting upgrade disc
    Problem: The person who originally installed the modchip had mixed up the O and Q points on the chip, connecting O from the PS2 to Q on the chip.
    Solution: Once we connected the O wire to the correct point on the modchip it worked perfectly. PLEASE people, make sure you don't mix these two up. It might be a bit confusing since the O and Q look similar - O is next to A, Q is in between P and R.

    Symptom: Black screen on every bood.
    Problem: Something went wrong when the user tried to flash ToxicBIOS and the flash content became corrupt. Normally the checksum routines would detect this and display a red screen however this time it wasnt the case, probably due to very corrupt content.
    Solution: We booted the console into recovery mode by the "hit reset 3 times from standby" method. This results in the backup flash bank (which is read-only) being booted instead of the standard flash bank. Once the console booted using the backup bank, we inserted the ToxicBIOS upgrade disc which then booted and flashed the chip successfully. On resetting the console everything worked fine.

    Symptom: Random black screen on boot
    Problem: Bad modchip. We are still investigating the actual cause of this problem (faulty flash chip suspected).
    Solution: We swapped with another DMS4 Pro, worked perfectly after this.

    Symptom: RSOD while booting upgrade disc
    Problem: Bad solder joint on 3.3v (A) on PS2 motherboard. Its possible that with a bad 3.3v connection BIOS patching will still work ok but CDVD authentication will not.
    Solution: Once the 3.3v point was re-soldered, everything worked fine.

    Thanks to FilterX for supplying the tech specs.

    I hoped this can help some people with their installation.

    If I've missed something,said something incorrectly or have a dead link then just PM me instead of adding a post.

    Good Luck[/quote]

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