This will be an extensive post, I don't expect one person to answer everything, but please explain as much as you can!!!! okay I finally got my new build up and running properly... I am ready to overclock... However, before I start can someone recommend me a good HSF that will fit in my motherboard properly (Gigabyte EX38-DS4)??? I have arctic freezer 7 pro but it's extremely tight and the fan staya a bit loose so I'm thinking of changing it to Cooler Master Hyper TX2. system specs: mobo: Gigabyte EX38-DS4 F3 bios cpu: Intel E2160 M0 stepping stock cooling for now gpu: MSI RX3870 OC edition RAM: Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800 (2x 1Gb) (CM2X1024-6400C4) PSU: Cooler Master real power pro 650W HDD: Western Digital SE16 500Gb I am going to list EVERY setting in my motherboard's overclocking section in the BIOS, and the default setting, and a few from the advanced section that I'm not sure about! I maaaaaaaay have screwed up my computer during my first OC attempt so I want to make sure it doesn't happen again!!! ADVANCED BIOS (default settings) should I change these?: limit CPUID Max to 3: DISABLED no-execute memory protect: ENABLED cpu enhanced Halt (C1E): ENABLED CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2): ENABLED CPU EIST function: ENABLED PC HEALTH STATUS (default settings) should I change these?: CPU warning temp: DISABLED CPU fan fail warning: DISABLED The ones in bold below are the main ones I need help with MB INTELLIGENT TWEAKER (MIT) (default settings): robust graphics booster: AUTO CPU clock ratio: 9X ------CPU frequency: 1.8Ghz (200x9) CPU host clock control: DISABLED ------CPU host frequency: 200 PCI Express frequency: AUTO C1A2: DISABLED Performance enhance: TURBO system memory multiplier (SPD): AUTO ------Memory frequency 800:800 DRAM timing selectable (SPD): AUTO *****STANDARD TIMING CONTROL***** CAS latency time: 5: AUTO DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay: 5: AUTO DRAM RAS# precharge: 5: AUTO Precharge delay (tRAS): 18: AUTO *****ADVANCED TIMING CONTROL***** ACT to ACT delay (tRAD): 3: AUTO Rank write to read delay: 3: AUTO write to precharge delay: 6: AUTO refresh to ACT delay: 42: AUTO read to precharge delay: 3: AUTO static tRead Value: 3: AUTO static tRead phase adjust: 0: AUTO command rate (CMD): 2: AUTO *****CLOCK DRIVING AND SKEW CONTROL***** CPU/PCIEX clock driving control (800mV) CPU Clock skew control (NORMAL) (G) MCH clock skew control (NORMAL) *****SYSTEM VOLTAGE OPTIMIZED***** system voltage control: MANUAL DDR2 Overvoltage control: NORMAL PCIE " " : NORMAL FSB " " : NORMAL (G)MCH" " : NORMAL CPU GTLREF1 voltage ratio: NORMAL CPU GTL REF2 voltage ratio: NORMAL loadline calibration: AUTO CPU Voltage control: NORMAL -----normal cpu vcore: 1.32500V Should I even bother messing with the memory timing auto settings? I know my RAM is rated at 4-4-4-12 at 2.1V... How do I know when and how much I should increase the voltages to each of these parts? When do I know that further voltage increase will not help??? Lastly, I don't fully understand which RAM ratio to choose... This motherboard has different choices such as 2.00B for 333FSB, etc... What i'm confused about is... --- If I set my FSB to 300Mhz... do I select RAM ratio from the 200Mhz range (designated by the letter A), or do I select RAM ratio from the 333Mhz Range (designated by the letter B)???? Or does it even matter, as long as I'm right around the 800Mhz that my RAM is rated at??? THANK YOU SO MUCH!
If the fan's loose on your Freezer 7 Pro, have it replaced, they're not supposed to be, and they're usually good coolers, I daresay better than the Coolermaster. Here are the ONLY settings I changed for my X38-DS4 and E4300: CPU enhanced halt: Disabled CPU EIST function: Disabled CPU Host clock control: Enabled CPU Host Frequency: 350 for me, this is essentially the figure that determines your overclock. Start low, e.g. 250, then work your way up. Performance enhance: Standard System memory multiplier: 2.00D - Memory Frequency 700mhz System voltage optimised - Automatic.
kool thx sam, that gave me what i needed to know in a nutshell! couple of quick questions though not sure if you read them because my post was long as hell. you said you used the 2.00D setting for memory multiplier giving you 700Mhz... that's fine I can see how you got that... but what's the difference between using this and lets say x.xxB which is for FSB333 according to the bios??? if you can get the RAM Mhz range around the 700 to 800 range does it really matter which "letter" you use??? Also, I read somewhere else that you should NOT leave voltages on AUTO because the motherboard may push too much voltage??? you're saying that it is safe to do so?
just changing the basic options will get you so far but you will need to change the voltages for the lot at some point to get the most out of it. auto does tend to give more volts than is needed but it will give you an idea of how far you can get. i would manualy set the timings to spec and use which ever divider has it as close to spec as pos for the time being. turn off all the options in the advance section. as your starting from 200fsb you should be able to set all the mobo volts to their lowest settings and then inrease them only when you loose stability. only change 1 at a time so when you doso you know whats diffferent. you do want to try and keep the volts as low as you can as this will help keep the temps down.
I have to admit, I'm not an expert on FSB Straps either, but from what I heard the higher the strap you use the more stability you'll earn, but there's some performance advantage to using lower ones, I haven't seen it myself.
@marsey and sam, ok this is what I plan to do, let me know if I should deviate at all. -Disable C1E, and EIST in advanced bios. -change performance enhance to standard. -Leave PCIE frequency and robust graphics booster on AUTO. -keep my current default RAM timings (5-5-5-18 at 1.8V) -increase FSB by 50 mhz increments and change RAM accordingly to match the 800Mhz default (doesn't matter which letter) -set all voltages to manual? or maybe I should leave it on auto and go as far as I can... then reduce the voltages manually to see how low I can go and stay stable?? sounds kinda backwards, but may prove to be easier and efficient if there's no risk of damaging parts... lol, what can I say, I like to cut corners. *** Assuming you guys decide that I should start with all manual voltages, should I set everything to their lowest BIOS setting, and then try to boot without over clocking to make sure it still works? Is there anything else you guys can think of?
btw I decided to go with the Xigmatek S1283 HSF... it got great reviews, even on newegg (not that newegg matters!) 36.99 including shipping, I guess that was the best deal I could find.
just an update... on stock I couldn't OC above 2.8Ghz... and temps were well over 60C according to speedfan v 4.34 with the xigmatek HDT S1283, I am currently at 3.0Ghz with temps around 50C during a 6 hour small FFT stress test using prime95. My current settings are: FSB: 333 RAM SPD: 2.00B (800/800mhz) Voltage settings are MANUAL with everything on "NORMAL" except cpu Vcore changed to 1.375. When I had all settings on auto, all of my voltages were ridiculously high, and vcore was at 1.552 (using stock cooler)!! ***Current questions: since I'm still well within temps and voltages are lower then before, is it safe to OC further? I would like to try for 3.4Ghz if possible... I'm not sure what order to increase the voltages in though? Should I keep increasing VCore, or should I also be adjusting RAM/MCH/etc.??? any specific order to try? how much voltage increase is too much?? Is it even worth going further performance wise??? Thanks for all your help guys! On a side note, my 3dMark06 version 1.1.0 scores are: Stock with lowest settings: 7552 O.C. with lowest settings: 11168
1.552 is a crazy Vcore, not sure why thats happened. leave the vcore at around 1.42 and see how far you can get without having to increase it.
ok i'm stable at 3.0Ghz with vcore 1.375... unfortunately I can't get past this... everytime I change FSB to above 350, cpuz won't update?? I set my FSB to right around 378 so I can hit 3.4Ghz... but when I boot to windows CPUZ displays "FSB 353, speed 3.1Ghz"... what gives? does that mean, my cpu cant clock faster then 3.1Ghz no matter what??
CPU-Z: 3157.4Mhz Mult X9, Bus 350.8, rated FSB: 1402.5 Windows Vista: Intel Pentium Dual CPU E2160@ 1.8Ghz 3.16Ghz Gigabyte BIOS: FSB: 378 Mult X9, 3400.00Mhz ??? I dont get it... does this mean, that my CPU cannot be clocked faster then 3.16 no matter what? Also, is there a forum section for questions about routers, or do i ask here?? Thanks!
lol, I emailed gigabyte tech support and they said "we do not endorse or promote overclocking and therefore cannot provide you with... blah blah, please seek assistance at our forums" WTF! interestingly... my friend has the EXACT same system, with the only exception being that he has a Q9450 instead of my E2160... his has the same problem... if I overclock at anything beyond 3.2Ghz, windows/cpu-z and any other program shows the processor speed and FSB at 3.2Ghz... BIOS settings however reflect 3.6Ghz... hmmm, i don't know what to do. Anyway... random question, are speedfan, and Hmonitor temperature readings accurate?? i simply installed the programs, did not do any calibrations or anything.
hmm I wonder if something is wrong with my friends computer then... maybe improper thermal paste application or something. BIOS temps show 31C... idle system temps according to speedfan AND hmonitor immediately after boot are 54C, and high 60C's while running prime95... seems really high considering everything is on stock voltages and the OC wasn't that much (3.2Ghz from 2.6)
Is this the CPU or cores? For the cores that temp is pretty good. For the CPU it's quite hot. Is he still using the cooler that came with the CPU? If he is, I'm amazed the temps are as low as they are, stock coolers shouldn't really be used for overclocking at all. Have you tried rebooting after this and looking at the readings in the BIOS once the PC is warm?
well all 4 cores read around the high 60s under 100% load... you're saying this is good? so what's considered too high for the cores? I'm not sure which temp listing refers to overall CPU temp. *** I forgot to answer your question, he's using Arctic freezer 7 pro CPU cooler, NOT stock. My E2160: P95 100% after 10hrs small FFT: (all of my friends temps are about 10-15 degrees hotter!) Temp1: 37C ---- what is this for?? Temp2: 54C ---- is this the CPU temp?? Temp3: -2C ---- clearly wrong, how do I fix it? Temp: 2C ----- same as above Core0: 54C Core1: 54C
Temp 1 will probs be the Motherboard and Temp 2 the CPU, though they're usually the other way round, I have had that 'reversal' issue before. Those temps sound fine. I can get to 60C on the cores if I stress test too.
