So.... Yeah, it's bricked. But I did get a valid CFW.bin All was well until it came to flashing the drive to its stock Keyed FW. Program: Jungle Flasher Hitachi GDR3120 Tab -------------------------- Drive was in Mode B. = Yes (Tested open/close) Drive was seen in Drive List = Yes (Selected) Use WinApi = Yes Drive Revision Selected = 78/79 Dump Drive = Yes (CFW.bin obtained) Firmware Tool 32 ----------------- Loaded in the Stock FW to spoof Key over = orig78-4c30.bin Spoof Source to Target = Yes Compared the 2 FW information. = Identical Hitachi GDR3120 Tab ---------------------- Selected "Restore Firmware" = Passes Stability Test (Yes) Clicked Yes to continue. = JF Freezes/Crashed 5 seconds later and a newly Bricked 360 Drive. Unresponsive to open/close tray button on the Xbox. Details: Windows Vista Home 32-bit Asus A8N32SLI-Deluxe MB Onboard Nforce Sata Controller Hitachi 78k ------------------ Luckily this is a release console I got for free due to RROD issues that were fixed. From what I've read this thing is dead and nothing short of spoofing my current key to a new drive is gonna remedy the issue. Any thoughts?
I think you have it covered. If the drive is unresponsive,then it's bricked. You will either have to get a hitachi PCB and start again with your firmware, or spoof another drive as the hitachi. You will still have to spoof the hitachi pcb if you get one that isn't the same as what you have now. If you have a 47 and you get a 79 pcb, it will need to be spoofed as your 47. If it's a 79 and you get one from a 59, it will need to be spoofed as a 79. ect. If you get a pcb from the same as you have now, from a 78, you can just put your key to it and start fresh.
The other option is to have the tsop desoldered and read/flashed then resoldered. But as long as you've already read your key, you might as well just replace the board and/or the drive. I know I charge $30 to desolder/read and I'm sure other's who do it are around the same. For that price you can probably get a new drive.
Thanks for the ideas peepz. I plan to get a Samsung drive to use in place of the Hitachi. So when spoofing my key to the Samsung, it doesn't require putting stock Hitachi FW on the Samsung does it? (Tutorial Link?) I figure I just need to spoof my key to the Hitachi iX1.51 FW and flash that FW to the Samsung. Does that sound correct? Or is there certain Hitachi/Samsung Spoof FW needed to make this happen? I definitely don't want to get another Hitachi as I have been able to successfully flash a Samsung, BenQ, and the new LiteOn drive via JF on this same computer with 0 issues. Hitachi is just screwing with me.
Thanks a bunch Bhetrick! That's a nice site. I found the exact information w/video for spoofing the Hitachi to Samsung drive. Very nice.
Ok, can someone confirm that I have this correct? 360 Firmware Toolbox (version 4.8) (Instructions are for iXtreme 1.4 which is a bit confusing.) 1. Open my Hitachi-CFW. Copy the key to notepad. 2. Open my Samsung-OFW and paste the key from above. Select "Replace Key" 3. Select "Tools" and then choose "Spoof Firmware" 4. Choose my original drive type - Hitachi GDR3120L 0078 5. Click "Apply Spoof" save the FW as ORIG.bin 6. Copy ORIG.bin to the location of "MakeiXtremeFirmware.cmd". 7. Double-Click "MakeiXtremeFirmware.cmd" 8. Flash my Samsung with the HackedFW.bin created from step 7. Questions: Is it necessary to dump the Key/FW from the Samsung drive? I figure I can just load the iXtreme Samsung FW (ix151-samsung.bin) into the 360 FW Toolbox source and "Replace Key" with the data from step 1. Spoof using steps 3-5 above. Then just flash that data straight to the Samsung drive. I'm confused as the instructions I have show to use the "Make iXtreme Firmware" once I have keyed and spoofed the info into the Samsung-OFW. Is that required with iXtreme 1.5? Thanks Again.
Yeah, that will work. The spoofing tut you read was based on the assumption that the user didn't have any firmware to start with. But you do already have the necessary firmware.
