How I fix RRoD 360s (video)

Yeah with every 360 i reflow i replace the xclamps with lammas xclamp replacement and only tighten them finger tight.

Wooly i want you to know i've been directing people to your video on youtube from yahoo answers. I haven't really been around on AD much but i've been helping people on YA.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...qZE7e8EjzKIX;_ylv=3?qid=20100206124532AAC8W0C

Anyway i don't really see what gameover is talking about. I own a reflow machine with a preheater and the actual working platform and i don't see how it it's not a reflow without a xray. I realize you can't really tell if you fixed the continuity issues between the chip and the board but if you have certain heat profiles there's no way the solder won't melt especially if you use flux.

Anyway keep up the good work, we have to keep people from doing hackjob fixes on their xbox.

 

I tried the heat gun but I wasn't successful same problem 2 red lights the fan kicked up as soon as I turned it on. should I do the heat gun again? I haven't put the screws through the chassis I at least wanted to see if the heat gun would worked. Any suggestions.

 

Hi C4RN1 do you suggest flux before heat gun if so where would you flux, Obviously i would flux after warming up the board before the direct reflow, Many Thanks

 

Thanks ddp, also guys what heatsink paste are you using , I find artic silver the best but also the most exspensive, Has anyone used any other paste ??

 

You can get the 12g tube of as5 for cheap at coolerguys.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556003076.html

You can do about 50 xbox's with one big tube. Figure the other size is the 3.5g tube and can do maybe 15 xbox's or so.

 

Thats o.k for you guys in the states but postage would throw it up for the uk , I,m off to maplins to see what they have this afterfnoon , I Presume P-C Paste is just as good as it keeps these running fine

Cheers

 

Nope, its no where near as good as AS5 for conducting the heat. Avoid Maplins if you don't want to get ripped off, I only ever use them on Sundays (where everywhere is close).

 

Can you guys tell me if I'm applying enough paste to my board this is after I applied it and turned it back on.

 

What do you mean turned it back on , did you Put the heat sinks back on and if so how much paste is on the heat sinks

 

Has anyone ever used the Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Paste , If so whats that like , I have just purchased some Antec Formula 5 from maplins as i need to get two done tonight and yes totally ripped off with price but i need it.. I have noticed that the Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Paste is slightly cheaper as well but if its no good i will not bother , Cheers

 

Here's my opinion based on "fixing" these consoles for around 2 years- there is no absolute permanent fix.

Well not economically possible unless you purchase expensive rework machinery and reball the GPU's BGA chip then check your work via xraying the board which would make repair cost ridiculously high.
So consumers would just buy a new console now more than ever since the prices have dropped for all 3.
In all cases heatgunning, xclamp fixing,and even "reflowing" are only temporarily patching the problem for a couple of months to a year at best if done correctly, but this depends on how reworked/used the system is already, & microsoft recommends only reworking the board up to 3 times. And in many cases microsoft refurbished consoles only last a couple of months then die again too which is in comparison to the results most people repairing these xboxes are getting, so once the 3RROD problem or any other error begins its a downward spiral from there. You may be able to "bring her back to life" once twice or maybe 3 times with these methods but
It may be more reliable to just replace the hardware than to repair it in the end.

 

Yes that is what I meant here are the heat sinks didn't know if you needed to see that.

 

With the greatest respect to SHADOWZ9, I agree but if your console has been apart for one reason or another, the warranty has ended, so if we can get extra life out of our machines at a minimal cost why not , I have got a couple back up and running thanks to wooly and my friends love me , Even though it may be short lived , Hopefully Not. Keep up all the good work guys it is appreciated .

 

This has to be the worst generation of consoles when it comes to technical difficulties.

 

True but at least M$ owned up to this and given us the 3 year RROD/E74 warranty.

 

Ok, I got a question. I took it apart, did all that i was supposed to do via youtube, drilled holes in the chassis etc. When I turned it back on, the fan came on for a sec, then died, and voila, now i have 2 red lights. I have tried screwing the M/b into the chassis, and I have tried screwing the heatsinks directly to the M/b without going through the chassis. Now I have 2 redrings, the fan shuts off in 4 seconds, and i'm at a loss. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, one nylon and one steel on the bottom, and one nylon and one steel between the heatsinks and the m/b.

 

That's the problem with these old youtube videos. They all have the spacing on the bottom wrong with 2 washers (and most of them tell you to overheat). You need 3 washers on the bottom if you've drilled through the chassis and the screw head is on the outside. If the screw is inside the chassis you only need 1 (and preferably tapered head screws). It's possible you dont have enough thermal paste too. Remove your heatsink and see if there's a nice square imprint of the thermal paste on it.

 

yeah, plenty of thermal paste. Its on the heatsinks, and on the chips. I wonder if the heatsinks are seated properly. I know when you put a heatsink on a cpu, it touches it directly, no washers. So, tell me, should I go through the chassis, or not. this is driving me nuts.