Doh! While replacing my "R" and L" button with nice clean ones (my cousins made them dirty) I accidentally put the back panel on wrong and it broke the tiny stick for the power button. Unless I have super super super precise super glue techniques, it seems nearly impossible to fix due to the size. Anyone have any idea what to do?
Based on my experience, super glue will not work. The shear force of sliding the switch will just snap he post off. Your options include (but are not limited to): Find a replacement switch. (I know of no known vendors, although it is rumored that the PSP switch will work.) In addition, the power switch is SMT soldered and unless you have the expertise and the equipment, your chance of success is minimal. Replace the logic board (easies but most expensive and time consuming) Live with it and use a pin or needle to slide the switch. A cork board push pin will work but you will probably find (as I did) that this is very inconvenient and not worth the trouble.
is there another place to solder on the power switch? i broke off the top contact and i cant turn on myy ds. any suggestions?
Same problem with shear stresses. If you've seen the switch post, it is less than 1/16" square and s molded to the slide plate. I tried using a steel pin and also a tiny screw to replace the post but the plate is probably only 1/32" thick so there's virtually nothing to attach it to. You could probably "rig" a plate to go over the top of the existing one but you still have the problem os shear forces since the springs in that switch are pretty tight.
You can get the switches from various places on the net. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-POWER-SWITC...yZ139969QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem It's sensitive work though so make sure your soldering skills are up to the task.
@mreese00 Next time don't try to hijack someone else's thread and you might get an answer. There is no other "contact" for the power switch. If you lifted the solder pad, you're done. If you broke the leg of the power switch, you might be able to reattach it. The power switch has 4 contacts that attach to 4 pads on the Logic board. 3 (2, 3, and 4) are common (ground) and 1 is the "hot" lead.
heres a replacement part power switch for nds lite only at $1.86 shipped worldwide at dealextreme.com
@dailun i wasnt trying to "hijack" the thread. i thought his question was answered so i thought i would ask another related question instead of starting a new thread. ps: try not to be such a dick.
Hello. I thought I'd give you my 2 cents worth. I busted the sticky-outy bit of my son's ds lite when replacing the shell (after he wrecked the hinge). The switch was broken by mis-alignment of the 2 prongs of the slider. I thought about gluing it but decided it probably wouldn't work due to the shearing force and I'd glue the whole switch together. Anyway, I fixed it using a metal pin from the wife's sewing kit. I got one of those pins with a coloured plastic knobbley round ends, heated up the sharp end with a cigarette lighter and CAREFULLY poked the needle into the plastic (where the pokey-outy bit was) by about 3mm and then cut the pin with about 3-4mm sticking out. This fits into the slider between the two prongs. The needle seems to withstand the shearing forces and the switch works well. Strangetrousers.
Hey, if you do see this reply, can you help me out, my switch broke, same as yours did. Can you elaborate on how you did this, i got a pin from a sewing kit and instead of a cigarette lighter i used a regular lighter, needless to say, it didn't work. I don't really understand the concept behind this either but if it works, then i don't care how. So, can you elaborate?
The power switch can be replaced by soldering on a new one. There are 6 solder points (2 of these are at each narrow end and are only used to secure the powerswitch to the board) 4 connections are to pads on the PCB board. If you look at these (starting at the 1st one near the 'L' switch) the 3rd one down does not need to be soldered, I've replaced several of these switches and on a few the 3rd pad has lifted from the board, I continued and soldered the remaining 3 pads and the switch works fine, This happened on the one I have and I've been using it for about 5 months now after repair with no problems. Desolder by using solder braid and use a really thin flat razor blade and a soldering iron to get the switch off the pads, one by 1
Could you describe with pics? Also, do you know how to solder the one of the shoulder buttons, one of them broke off.
Oh my old thread! Well I guess I'll update my status. Pop open the DS and use a crappy solder pen from radioshack and it went pretty well. I solder on the 4 pins and couldn't solder the two side supports. No biggie... I use a few drops of epoxy over the switch and it is solid like a rock!
The power switch can be replaced by soldering on a new one. There are 6 solder points (2 of these are at each narrow end and are only used to secure the powerswitch to the board) 4 connections are to pads on the PCB board. If you look at these (starting at the 1st one near the 'L' switch) the 3rd one down does not need to be soldered, I've replaced several of these switches and on a few the 3rd pad has lifted from the board, I continued and soldered the remaining 3 pads and the switch works fine, This happened on the one I have and I've been using it for about 5 months now after repair with no problems. Desolder by using solder braid and use a really thin flat razor blade and a soldering iron to get the switch off the pads, one by 1 Two methods of desoldering: a. Using a razor blade Heat the solder joints of the ribbon connector and slide a thin razor blade underneath while the solder is melted. Leave the blade under the joint until the solder has become solid again and do the same for the remaining joints. b. Desolder the original ribbon connector using desolder braid. Solder Braid is a specially treated fine copper braid which draws molten solder up into the braid where it solidifies. The best way is to use the tip of the hot iron to press a short length of braid down onto the joint to be de-soldered. The iron will subsequently melt the solder, which will be drawn up into the braid. Take extreme care to ensure that you don't allow the solder to cool with the braid adhering to the work, or you run the risk of damaging p.c.b. copper tracks when you attempt to pull the braid off the joint. The photo with the Razor blade is for indication only, as you can see it's for a different component. Ensure if using a razor blade to slide it under the leg and do not remove the pads from the PCB
@dailun HA! i found another place to solder a wire for my switch!shows how much you know! now i have THREE WORKING DS LITES! thanks for noth- i mean your help.
