I am new to converting VHS to DVD, and for my first project what I wanted to do is convert some old college football games to DVD. My problem comes when I am done burning the DVD and go to play it on the TV through a regular DVD player, things are fine like commericals, and broadcaster shots, but when the screen switches to the actual plays the players become blocky ( for lack of a better description, as if the resolution has deteriorated, but resumes to normal when they go back to a view of the broadcasters, commercial or sideline. Has anyone else experienced this?? If so what do I do to correct it?? Thank you
Blockyness is usually Caused from there not being enough Bitrate to Encode the Image or from Plain Low Quality Encodeing....Scenes were there is a Lot of Motion and detail will need a Much Higher Bitrate to encode than Scenes that are Not so make sure you have a High enough Bitrate.....
Yeah, what minion said. Increase the CAPTURE bitrate and it should produce a better end product. Don't exceed 98000kb due to dvd spec. issues and allow for plenty of free HD space. The resulting mpeg is quite large- 4 gig and up.
OK I have tried this numerous times. I increased the constant bitrate it gave me a huge file with a little better quality. I also tried using varible bitrate with a peak of 9800kb, same result when things go in motion the picture gets blocky. And I do mean blocky, little square blocks. I even tried it on my other (more powerful) computer, same results. The specs on my more powerful computer are Intel P4 3.2 Ghz, ASUS P4C800-E, 1 Gig DDR400 Corsair Ram, SATA Raid 0 80 gig capacity, ATI 9800 Xt 256 MB Video, and I am using the new HP DC5000 DVD Movie Writer and software (Arcsoft Showbiz 2). really getting frustrated with this and would appreciate any further help. Thank you =)
What you are seeing is called "Macro Blocks" and they are caused from either too low of a Bitrate or Just Plain Crappy quality Encodeing and since you get this effect when useing the Max Bitrate then it means that the Encodeing is Just Bad.... From what I know about the "HP DC5000 DVD Movie Writer" is that it uses Hardware Mpeg-2 compression useing the "Conexant CX23416 MPEG encoder Chip" so the Video is Compressed to Mpeg-2 on the Device so if you are Getting this Bad Quality when you are useing the Highest quality settings then there is absolutly nothing you can do about it accept to take the Thing back for a refund and get something better ... Also if you are doing any editing in showbiz make sure you are useing the "Smart Rendering" setting because if you don"t then showbiz will re-encode the File useing is Crappy encoder which will greatly degrade the Quality..... Also what other Capture settings are there??? Is there a Motion vector setting or a Gop structure Setting?? as you will achieve better quality with a Shorter Gop structure and with the Motion Vectors set to the Max.... Also if the Source Video is of low Quality then your Captures will be of Low Quality but if the Football Game you are Captureing Looks Good before captureing but bad after captureing and you are useing the Correct settings then the only thing you can Blame is the capture device.... Any Hardware Mpeg encoder can capture good Quality when there isn"t very much motion on the Screen but it takes a Good Hardware encoder to capture High Motion scenes with good Quality which is what I believe you are experienceing.... Good Luck
will the analog pass throughs on a miniDV handle what I am looking to do. If so I am looking at getting the new sony DCR-HC100 link http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INT...ame=dcc_DICamcorders_MiniDVHandycamCamcorders that way I can convert and have a video camera to boot
Yes you can use the Analogue Passthrough to capture the Video to your Hard Drive... The Video will be converted to DV AVI format by the Camcorder and transfered to your Hard Drive and then you would need to use a Standalone Mpeg encoder Like "Tmpgenc Xpress" to Convert the DV AVI files to Mpeg-2 format and then you would just need to author the Mpeg-2 files to DVD.... The Process would take longer than your Present setup and you would have to learn how to use different software But the Quality would be better ..... Cheers PS: High Quality Hardware Mpeg encoders are generally Pretty expensive, one of the Better ones is the "Canopus Mpeg Pro EMR" which will run you about $400....
Not to be stupid here... just double checking the analog pass through will give me all the frames or whatever I need to capture the quicker moving scenes and action?? and remove the blockyness assuming I use a good stand alone encoder, then author it. just want to make sure before I waste $1,600 on a camcorder.
The Blockyness is created from Bad mpeg encodeing, you don"t get those effects when Captureing to DV because it is"t as highly compressed as mpeg is.... Some of the best Capture devices you can get like the Canopus ADVC-100 or the Matrox RT do pretty much the same thing as the Passthrough on a DV Camcorder... You shouldn"t spend a whole bunch of extra Money just so you can use the Passthrough on a DV Camcorder($1600 seems a Little Much for a Camcorder even with a Passthrough) that is if it is costing a Lot more to get one with a analogue Passthrough as you can get a Device that does the same thing But is specially for Transfering VHS and Hi8 or any Analogue Video to digital for about $250 ...... Cheers
I'll second what Minion said, If you going to buy a camcoder for this project you might be better off pruchasing the Canopus MpegPro EMR. That is one nice unit with some nice software. I'd bet it suit your needs very well.
Yes if you want a Good Quality Hardware Mpeg-2 encoder then the "Canopus Mpeg Pro EMR" is probably one of the Best you can git within it"s Price range...One will run you about $400 but at least you can skip the whole encodeing step with one of these devices.... Cheers
I copy my vhs tapes with the aid of a S-VHS vcr thru my Panasonic Mini DV Deck to my pc using Nero Vision Express. I then edit the dv avi file with Vegas 5 and burn to DVD using DVD Architect 2 with no problems. Results are pretty darn good!
Is it worth it to spend a few additional dollars to get Adobe software bundles included. Looking at the Matrox RT.X100, bundled with Adobe Premier Pro, Encore, and Audition. Or the Canopus DV Storm bundle. Does Adobe carry the same reputation in this field as it does with Graphics Arts like photoshop?
I suppose it is Worth it to get the software Bundle with the Hardware if you don"t allready have an editor that you use and if you are going to be doing a lot of Editing... Adobe premier is one of the Most popular prefessinal Quality editors and has a lot of Features but is Difficult to learn so if you allready have an editor that you are used to then you might as well stick with useing that....
I experienced this same problem using the Plextor TV402U. It seems the only way to get good quality is to capture in DV (raw digital video) and then convert to MPEG2 using a good encoder. When I was researching this I found this site http://www.videohelp.com very informative. You should be weary of any hardware MPEG2 encoders under $1000 I've even heard bad things about the Canopus even though their products are usually high quality. Depending on the number of tapes you have to convert, you might also consider having it done by a professional. Here's the company I ended up using http://www.convertmymovies.com . I was very satisfied with the quality, it looks just as good, maybe even better than my original tape. Hope this helps.
