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Is Shrink too slow?

Discussion in 'DVD Shrink forum' started by sean5775, Jan 5, 2005.

  1. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    Thanks. I just wished one of the ideas would work! lol. At least we found out some things. That's great that your motherboard is under warranty from a store. Maybe you do have a shot. Yes there is a rare possibility that the new HD is defective, but I'd have to say I really doubt it. First off your performance improved over the other one. Then 2nd, your problem is existant on either drive you try.. You also get better speed with the WD because it was even faster than your old drive. So if that were possible it would be very rare. If you had another drive sitting next to you, there would be so easy to try, but I would think you'd have to go to a lot of trouble to change the drive. I can't rule it out, but I just don't think so.

    You say originally the computer seemed really quick when you put in the new WD but then faded? Is it possible you just got used to it? Or don'tyou mean it's slower than the original system was weeks or months ago??. My MS word opens in less than a second here.. and on the slower computers too. 15 seconds? I suppose that's not a joke. Wow. That is insane. I agree you probably don't have a virus or spyware, but here's something extra you can test. One thing you can do is list all of your taks under task manager on paper. Then type them into google one at a time and if it's been reported as a virus/spyware etc, it will show up in google. I have 3 or 4 programs, anti-virus, the works!. But if there is a problem I check that list. They are in the processes tab. Like iexplore.exe is one that belongs to windows. But if you see things you are not sure of it's a great way to double check. I have found ones that did not show up in my spyware programs. They are rare though.
    I don't know what the noise is. Your HD makes noise? Or does your fan on your cpu speed up when it gets warm?

    Yes, I would go with the new ram and motherboard. Good luck on the ideas and post if they help or not.. probably not if it's your board though.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2005
  2. ddp

    ddp Moderator Staff Member

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    what cache on wd do you have as possible might have crapped out from overheating if not ventilated properly
     
  3. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    As for worrying your new drive being bad. Besides using sandra, you could test it like this. Get a 2 or 3 large files (500MB, 1GB+ etc) and copy it from one directory to another and time it. You could also do small and medium in another directory. Like roughly 100 to 200 10MB files.. Really any random directory will do, and time that. Mount your new WD in the other computer you have and hook it to middle so that it becomes the slave drive. Boot into windows and let it settle down for a min while it detects etc.. Your C: will now be something like D:. Find it, and copy the 2 or 3 large files again and time it. Try with the medium random files etc and time those. If your WD does poorly in the other computer then it's that rare case you wondered about. If it's hard to tell because the other computer is slowish, you can also test the WD drive against what ever drive is C: while it's in the other computer.

    ddp, I think he meant his computer is slower now than when he got it a few months ago and not with the new WD.. But he did say that right after talking about the WD, so I'm unsure if he meant this happened now on the new WD, or is talking about differences from weeks ago. I guess we'll know when he comes back. It's a good suggestion. As for the cache he has the SE which I believe has an 8MB cache. But spotted another page that listed it with a 2MB cache. Maybe only the OEM has 8MB. I think the SE (special edition) might be for the OEM only, but I sort of believe this page though: http://www.directron.com/wd120jb.html I'm not 100% sure this is his drive, but has the same title he listed pages back.

    Sean5775, If you really DO mean it is the new WD that was super fast a day or so ago, and now is slow, that makes the situation far different. It's also possible that some damaged hardware on the motherboard is screwing up the WD chip set. Maybe a bad voltage or who knows. That would be awful. I had also suggested checking your temperatures several pages back but I think you might have not seen it? I kind of assumed they were good because you didn't comment on it. While you could check your cpu temp, your motherboard temp (if available) would be some indication of a poorly ventalated case as ddp is also wondering. Only you know if you have good fans. If you have a smallish case, that 3ghz chip can generate a lot of heat for the rest of the components too. Especially when processing video. A 3ghz cpu's fan can also accumulate more dust, making cooling inefficient. This adds heat to the overall system. Have you blown the dust out of your fans? I use canister vac, with hose on reverse side blowing air out. I hold fan to prevent it from spinning since that ruins them. If you really meant your new WD was fast then suddenly slow then that is far different from it being slow from the first minute it was installed. One indicates a change, the other doesn't. Let us know! lol

    I forgot, For the virus check idea, I meant that in general. Not now since you just reinstalled XP.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2005
  4. sean5775

    sean5775 Regular member

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    I tried your idea of switching the Hard drive to the secondary IDE cable and left the drives out. This made a minor difference with transfer from HD to DVD9 around 5700 kb/s so thats 200 kb/s which basically is near nothing.

    I tried to get the temperature from that program I saw listed. I wasnt able to figure that out, but I am certain that ventilation is good, The case is fairly large, all the fans are more than sufficient, all clean, all working. It does gather alot of dust in the case as I leave it running 24/7 but I clean it at least once a month, and always have.

    I took the computer in and had the tech check out the motherboard. He said it seems to work for the basic test they do on it. So with it appearing to work he couldn't do much for me. He did say that if I really want a new motherboard there are ways to damage it, but I don't know if I'm like that or I wouldnt know what to do anyways. Basically for this place all it has to do is fail his little test and its replaced with any model they have in stock. I tried to quiz him on the test he was doing but he really didnt say much about it.

    Yeah the WD was much faster the day I got it, but quickly went down to the way the computer was last week. For months it has taken me a long time to open applications, navigate through web pages, my other computer is far superior in these areas now, and this never used to be the case. The link for the hard drive you listed is the one I have, but as for how much the cache is well I havent a clue, I don't have the box or anything, they had to keep that.

    I also checked all processes that are running in google and none came up as spyware or anything that wasnt supposed to be there. It was very interesting however to see what some of that stuff is.

    I did try another hard drive in this computer some time ago, and it was also slow as this is now, that same hard drive works fine still in my other PC, So I guess that would basically rule that out as the cause of the slowdown.

    I really think this board might be the cause, I just wish it was broken so I could get a free one LOL.

     
  5. creaky

    creaky Moderator Staff Member

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    wow, 2hours for Shrink on a fast system. I was getting like 1.5hours for Shrink on all films, on a P3 500 with 384MB ram on Win2K. Now on Athlon 2800+XP with 512mb (same hard drive - a lowly 20GB AT100 WD drive) all shrink operations take max of 15-20 mins. Btw (can't remember if it's been mentioned in this monster thread) but all ripping using a DVD Burner is not recommended as they're not built for constant stop/start operations. I do all ripping from DVD Rom/cd writer combo drive - LG 4480B i think. (the LG drive is even hooked up externally in USB2.0 controller, yet still manages 15min rips). Sorry haven't got much to add other than that.

    Rich
     
  6. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    Well, thanks for trying everything and sorry one of the ideas didn't turn out to be it. Glad you liked the processes thing in google. There could always be more guesses out there, but I think the guesses are getting more and more unlikely, and it's simply that board. Actually I know is. What else could it be. And there were lots of good suggestions in this thread from every one, back to page one. At least you tried all the stuff and you got to hear what you expected from the guy. Deep down the main owners know it doesn't work right, but don't feel any obligation to do anything unless it's totally dead. Which obviously doesn't cover your situation and seems a tad unfair, but it's their rules. My shop will actaully just let me swap a board on my word... and a few questions of course.

    The fact that the one guy told you there were ways to damage it if you wanted a new board probably means he wants you to have one, but can only follow the rules there. So he dropped you a hint. In fact I was going to write that as a suggestion and sort of make a joke last night, but here the guy in the shop says it. Amazing. I know what you mean about wondering if you are like that etc.. The moral issues etc. But they don't see it that way. You also have to wonder if they are like that.. I mean if they would actually let you stay with it that way.. and they did. At least the guy was nice enough to tell you that. If it's dead, off they ship it and don't give it much more thought than that. Come on!! Unleash your deepest desire to destroy HP's evil empire! Grab a chair Sean and pretend the chair is HP! LOL. You know those little, little tiny pins around those chips? Cut one or pinch two together.. That 240 volt dryer outlet could do wonders to your motherbord. No wait. They might suspect you if you bring it in melted. Plug the BIOS chip in backwards. Short the video chip!. Black screen equals failed test. Who knows, maybe some better suggestions will follow. Any ideas out there?!? Well, of course it's up to you. You can also go motherboard shopping since you probably don't really want that same board back anyway. So you still have choices. :).
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2005
  7. sean5775

    sean5775 Regular member

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    If they cover it I can get any board in stock, thats the policy. I only wish I could destroy it and not make it obvious, I would do it too. But its gotta be something believable that would happen inside the PC. I have to bring the whole PC in for them to test it and decide to replace it or not. Simply the fact that the computer doesnt transfer data as fast as it should is not good enough for them I guess. See he said it was slow but said it could be software and blah blah but really I think he did know just couldnt do anything about it.
     
  8. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    Actually while I was goofing around, a couple of those ideas could work. But I know what you mean, it has to be believable. I'll give it some thought and post an idea if I can think of very inconspicous method. Also ask around. I re-read what you just wrote.. Yes, I'm sure he knew and can't do a thing until it fails totally. The software thing was just bull of course.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2005
  9. sean5775

    sean5775 Regular member

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    yeah I notice they always blame software, because software related problems are never covered. And almost anything could be software related but I now know this isn't.

    I just surely hope this board is my problem. I don't like it anyways so I would replace it, surprised I didnt initially.

    Anyways I thank you for all your help bluelaser and others but mostly bluelaser, this thread has basically been back and forth between the 2 of us and has at least got me somewhere as far as narrowing it down.

    I might do some more swapping parts between the 2 pc's I am even willing to swap motherboards, I believe they are both compatable with each PC, in fact I know they are. I guess if this motherboard makes the other PC slow then its either the motherboard or the RAM I guess. And of course I can post those results, and of course if there is a way to have it damaged intentionally then I guess I would appreciate that as well. Its not normally something I would do other then the fact the tech actually suggested it, I should have asked him how LOL I got sucked into a $349 extended warranty at this store for a bunch of parts I bought. I have tried numerous times to get things replaced with only one time when a CD burner tray got stuck closed, they replaced that and other then that I have payed to replace other parts that were obviously damaged but not to point where they would replace it. Basically it has to be dead or a function of it not working at all. I learned my lesson about these warrantys, they make it sound so good to get you to buy it, but when it comes to actually replacing or repairing things they see it as software related and therefore won't fix it. But they say they can check for software problems and rule them out at my expense. Basically for them to rule this out for the motherboard he said a minimum of $75 for diagnosis would be the charge. not really fair if you ask me.
     
  10. bombbay41

    bombbay41 Guest

    Re Blue Laser's post on Jan 20. I don't think Sean5775 has a problem at startup but just a quick aside re startup. To check Windows startup processes, visit www.windowsstartup. Might be a tad quicker than Googling each process seperately.

    Hope you guys find the culprit after all your hard work, sounds like m/board is suspect for sure. Good luck.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 21, 2005
  11. ddp

    ddp Moderator Staff Member

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    could get in trouble for this but connect a usb cable upside down or a metallic object across the 4 pins in the usb port which should frie the usb circuitry thereby giving you chance to replace board as i've seen that happen by mistake but was able to repair myself but store won't
     
  12. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    Here's an idea for your collection. I like this because you don't have to do anything but run software. You could download the BIOS flash program and let it begin updating your bios. As soon as it starts, turn off your computers power while it's writing to the BIOS chip. After this is done, your computer (most likely) will not boot any more, will not show anything on the screen. Once you do this, you can't reverse it from software. They will probably be too busy to look into it and even know it's the BIOS in the first place. There would be a small chance that your shop would think of BIOS, and try to get it going again. But that would mean another BIOS chip. And if they did you could say thanks and bring it back in 2 weeks with some new hardware problem, if you find a way.. But this truly makes the computer look dead physically when it's not. They probably won't want to try and figure out what's wrong with it. Even if they suspect BIOS, they also won't know how it happened since BIOS can get corrupted by accident, a failure, or by software. Some viruses attack BIOS (rare), unless protected. But still, any little problem and someone's BIOS can go out.. So there's nothing they can say. Stil, that will have a good chance of making them think it's broken. The computer will be dead, and the worst that would happen is they reset it.. I bet they don't know it's bios or they don't bother with it. Of course there's always that small chance. What you could do is get a BIOS update, or backup your current BIOS to a file.

    For fun google, "HELP I erased my bios" in search or in groups to see what happens. Here's just one: http://forums.windrivers.com/archive/index.php/t-67532 LOL, poor person! He doesn't realise that there is no way to boot the computer again without the chip.
    You need a program AWDFLASH. See: http://www.jetway.com.tw/evisn/download/update.htm or similar to it. - But I have AMI bios, so if that's yours, then you need a different program. There are instructions on Asus site. It's a little hard to find but it's there. Or you can go through HP's site which is more cumbersome. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/genericDocument?lc=en&cc=us&docname=bph07680#

    And read this about flashing your computer's board ASUS P4G - LA http://www.computing.net/cpus/wwwboard/forum/7096.html

    It can only be done after you make a bootable DOS floppy. Put it on the floppy or on the hd in a folder like C:\BIOS and run it from there. Boot off floppy, then run it. You can read your bios into a file, then tell it to write it back out. Otherwise you need to locate a bios file. You'd have to learn to use the program, but it's a small utility.

    Juuust an idea for you. Just be sure before you do it. And you could try the memory switch.. It's probably not that, but I wondered since your scores were a little low. Your store is terrible for charging $349 for a warranty! I never buy them. In the last few years I've saved so much money by avoiding them, that I could also just buy a new computer anyway. Oh, and getting a new board shouldn't be too expensive. You could use your old parts and they should be fine. Then you'd be free of that store. There are many good sites on line to order from. Good luck.

    Thanks for the suggestion bombbay41. It looks like an efficient site. The only reason I went the google route was in the event that a rare/new virus had hit. Some process sites are slower than others to list them. And some web sites, as you know, are currently using browser bugs to quickly install new programs, often under new names. Sometimes the new ones pop up on one site before others. Less efficient, but gives more results from all sites. I did look at the site you mentioned, pretty neat..
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2005
  13. echologos

    echologos Guest

    Hi, just joined today after lurking for some time. If I
    step on anyones toes on this first post I apologize in
    advance.

    I solved my burning problems in this way. Set up a dedicated machine to burn cd's and dvd's. It is a
    P3 Celeron 900, Intel 815 mobo, 20GB - 7200 rpm hd, a
    Optorite DD405 8x burner with win2000 SP1.
    No printer, no scanner, no internet, used monitor.
    Only loaded essential programs: Nero 6, JetAudio, WinDVD 4.0, Power DVD 5.0, and of course the brains
    of the appliance
    Dvd Decrypter and DVD Shrink taking up maybe 2.5GB of
    the C: drive total of 5.0 GB, with
    empty 14 GB on Drive D. Also not connected on purpose to the Internet,
    thus relieving 95% anti-virus and spyware problems.

    Total current upgrade cost of $52.00 for the Optorite burner, and $4.00
    for one new case fan. I already had everything else
    collecting dust.

    I would say average time for decoding and writing to
    HD with Shrink would average 1 hour if divided up between 10 random DVD's. I believe the shortest I had
    was 15 min. and the longest 1hr30min. I always re-author and try to keep compression between 75% to 100%.

    Burn time max never goes over 10 minutes with DVD
    Decrypter with 4x compatible DVD+R such as Sony that
    burns at 8x for 2/3 of the disc, the first 1/3 being
    at 4x.

    Troubleshooting problems have been mostly very minor,
    and as long as I leave the system "as is" I don't expect any that aren't easy to fix since the hardware
    and software are basically frozen now.

    So I have solved two problems, I have a back-up computer ready to connect to the internet modem if my main pc goes down and I have a stable media burning appliance I don't have to fiddle with every day.

    This is a $250. system that really solves time and
    headache problems. Now I have the time to play with
    my 2 new photo printers on my main pc and edit and
    print photos, labels and covers and surf the net at my leisure while viewing a dvd or listening to a cd.

    This is the only way to go, meaning a dedicated machine
    not my specific underfunded system, and its cheap too!
    That's my 2 cents.
     
  14. hardcandy

    hardcandy Guest

  15. sean5775

    sean5775 Regular member

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    Well thanks Bluelaser and everyone else. I got my motherboard replaced free of charge after convincing the tech that something was not right with the data transfer speeds. It took a great deal of convincing. This seemed to have solved all my problems. I now have a MSI 848P Neo-LS 800MHz which was recommended by the tech. I even got them to install it for free, after I had some problems doing it myself. I can now backup most DVD's in 30 minutes. The HD to HD transfer is now 11,300 kb/s which is more than double what I got before. And simple tasks like opening MS word now takes less than 1 second as it should rather than 10 seconds or more.
     
  16. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    Wow, that is great Sean5775 ! I'm glad to hear you got them to swap your board. I googled "MSI 848P Neo-LS 800MHz" and it got a really good review at http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/motherboards/MSI_848P_1.html . I noticed it has pretty much most, if not all of the features needed for speed that are found on better boards including mine. Mainly the 800 fsb, and support for the 400mhz memory. Not that you needed that particular memory to solve the your problems, but it's good to know it's there. Also the better memory controller. All around the quality of the board gives you a backup time several minutes better than when the old one worked at it's best.. The HD transfer looks very fast too. It's a MUCH better board and I don't see how you could have made out any better. And they originally were saying it was software, LOL. Glad to hear it's resolved and that you now have a great board.. Happy burning!
     
  17. sean5775

    sean5775 Regular member

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    Yeah it seems to work great, its like I just got a new PC. I just can't thank you enough for all the help you provided for me. Otherwise I would have still been running with all the problems and lack of performance I was having. Eventually I would have replaced my old board anyways, but probably not so soon. I also bought new RAM today and its got 2GB now, not that I needed it but it can't hurt. I got the speeds mentioned before with 512, I would have expanded to 1 GB but the price was great as it was on sale this week so I went all out with it. Now I also don't have to unplug USB devices and keep switching them to what I need now as I have the space to run all the ones I need at one time. It also makes playing games like DOOM 3 much faster then before as thats a game that's a little sluggish on even good PC's

    Again I really appreciate your help on this. I guess this thread is pretty much done.
     
  18. BlueLaser

    BlueLaser Member

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    The 2GB of ram sounds awsome and I would have done the same had there been a sale like that. I may pick up more sometime too. And as you said, it helps with the memory the USB used. I play DOOM3 too, and it does love ram, lol. You're certainly welcome and I was glad I could help. Have fun with your new PC. :)
     

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