Lite on Drive Flashing

You have been told in many ways that NO there is No way without soldering or a vampire probe.without being rude you best not try this as you havent read up about it and you dont seem to understand the basics.
there are lots of people out there flashing take it to someone local.

 

1. yes

2.yes but there are others

3.you need the connectivity kit to use the probe as that is what it connects to.

4.the new ones if anything will be more difficult.search for the jungleflasher.pdf for a comprehensive guide to flashing.

GOOGLE is your friend, please dont be scared to search with it.

 

Not sure where you are seeing that but in my tutorial this is what it says: "You may want to repeat this process a couple of times to ensure a good dump. You can use JF to check the MD5 of your dump.Once complete, repair your traces. I recommend a repair trace pen. Use a multimeter to test continuity."

You must repair the traces or your LiteOn won't power on.

 

Ok thanks. Well that probably rules me out then. I've done a lot of soldering but never any trace repair. I've destroyed some in my early days of soldering and I doubt I could get them back to working states.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

Your other option would be to buy a trace repair pen. It is basically conductive glue and very easy to use.

 

Hi,

I've found someone who will flash it for practically the same cost as the parts I would need. I now have a new set of questions

1) I think I read correctly that cutting the traces etc is to DUMP the drive? Does this mean to flash the drive later (to a new version of iExtreme if needed at a later date) would require no cutting of traces?

2) Do I actually need the dummy.bin / dumped flash from the people who flash my drive? Is this needed for upgrading the firmware at a later time? (I think I've read in iExtreme FAQ that you don't need it?)

3) Is there anything I absolutely MUST have from the people that flash my drive?! Drive key etc?

Thanks!

 

Also, I have re-read the iExtreme 100 odd page pdf guide and it DEFINATELY says you can flash this drive WITHOUT having to cut the traces. It says this is only needed if you want the calibration data using the MRA style method. If you don't want it or aren't bothered then you can skip the cutting of traces.. (see page 90 of the doc)

So how come everyone is saying you can't do it without soldering etc?

 

You MUST get the keys from the person who flashes the drive in case you ever need to update or you'll have to re-cut the traces. Can't we stick to one lite-on thread? Do we really need 5 lite-on threads of the same B.S.? These questions have all been asked a million times

 

Can i do it with just a probe and using my 360 to power the cd drive? and in other tutorials Ive seen people not cut the board and then repair it. I don't want to take a chance that it wont repair or something, so are you sure that the only way is to physically cut the circuits? Cause i can make the probe, and im pretty sure the only thing the other kit is for is to power the drive and open the trey and stuff, am i right? Thanks

 

No since you need an xtractor anyway to use the probe. It will have the cable to power the drive.

 

I have now seen the actual iExtreme tutorial say you can flash the 74850C liteon WITHOUT the cutting of traces etc (but you do need the connectivity kit and a probe) and also now the tutorial from Team Xecuter saying with the use of a Blaster CK3 (which comes with a CK3 probe). I've also seen a solderless LT Clip + Switch for sale from team executer that would appear to require no soldering or trace rebuilding?

I'm suitably confused anyway. Whos right? Either there are methods of doing this without soldering or cutting traces or both, or there isn't!!

And I jumped on this thread because it was open already and was regarding the same thing I wanted to know. I've read loads of posts on here and when I see information that (rightly or wrongly or even just misinterpreted by myself) contradicts either other then I ask for more information just to be sure. Its a £200 xbox and needs at least £40 quids worth of gear buying, I just want to make an informed decision before I run the risk of wrecking everything! Not trying to spam the forum with the same stuff over and over..

 

The correct way is to cut the traces. The LT clip solderless still requires traces to be cut. The Probe 1 method isn't a full dump

 

I'm not worried about cutting traces, it was rebuilding them I wasn't to keen on taking on. The key thing for me is obviously also cost (I would need fibreglass pen, conductive pen, probably varnish as I don't have these tools) and its actually cheaper to buy a blaster CK3 (with included V1 probe) than to buy the V2 probe and the connectivity kit.

What are the worries with not performing a full dump using the V2 probe? If its simply getting caught on Xbox live well I don't intend on having this xbox online, I will buy a second xbox anyway and purchase the games that I want selectively. If its because theres a chance in the future games may not play on my drive unless I fully dump it, then obviously that changes things.

All of this is a far cry from advice like 'You can NOT flash the drive without cutting traces and soldering' though, so you can see why its difficult to understand which is the 'best' advice!

 

Right. Bookable.

Heres the deal. You CAN dump and flash this drive without soldering or breaking traces (at least on the drive I say I have with the 74850C firmware).

You DO need the following

- A probe (I'm going to use the CK3 Probe V2 by Xecuter)
- A connectivity kit (This isn't just to power the drive its also to connect the probe so you must have it) (I'm going to use the CK3 Pro connectivity kit)
- You have to be able to connect the drive to a sata port in the PC

You can dump the drives firmware and get the DVDKey with just the above and NO SOLDERING OR CUTTING OF TRACE.

The reason they say to cut the trace is that a portion of the dump (calibration data of the drive) is not dumped if you dont do the trace cutting. However I think its debatable if you even need this. End of the day I think your gonna end up banned one way or another if you play backups on Xbox Live so who cares about the calibration data seriously? Check out this link http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55830

If you go the Xecuter equipment route like I do (CK3 Connectivity kit + CK3 Probe OR CK Blaster - which should come bundled with a probe) there are loads of tutorials here http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=120 that will enable you to flash your drive without any soldering or cutting.

To those posting in this thread, its not that I don't appreciate your help or the time you spent posting replies and helping, because I do, and its because of that I've tried to educate myself more, so thanks. But you have to ask questions why its being said in this thread that you NEED to cut the trace to get the calibration data BUT the main guys who manufacture the equipment you are saying we need is posting (see first link above) not even 2 months ago that you DO NOT need the calibration data so flashing this drive can be done without soldering or rebuilding traces?!?

Again, thanks for your help, I'm not trying to be the smart arse but hey, its pretty simple, you dont need to do the full dump simple as.

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I'm actually going for the blaster, its cheaper than getting the probe and connectivity kit on its own and it saves opening the case to upgrade again (which very easy, hey its another feature and its cheaper to do it this way) http://mrmodchips.co.uk/catalog/pro...d=759&osCsid=10861be0633b13f7fe2cc5ec48411f42

 

Full dump dumps the raw data including the laser calibration. Without this, your laser will weaken much faster.

 

Well I'm not being funny but the head guy on the Team Xecuter forums who make the tools to even be able to do this says that its junk data and saying its required is a load of bollocks to be blunt. Is what your telling me that they do not know what they are talking about?

Forgetting this whole do you dont you cut traces stuff I actually have another quick question if you'd be so kind..

I'm just about to order some parts to flash my drive and want to make sure if I need a VIA card or not (I read alot of NForce motherbaords work ok). If I connect the drive to my PC and simply turn it on in its stock condition .. if I can see the drive details in Jungleflasher, does this mean my SATA controller is supported and I dont need a seperate VIA card? (I think it does mean everything is ok but I would like to double check).

I pick a port and it lists the drive ok but obviously I cant do anything else without the probe at this point.

Thanks for your help

 

Then post over there. You have to cut the traces. That junk data has the laser calibration

 

This is exactly what i want. Are you sure that this works perfectly? Is it a trusted site? Its called "TEAM XECUTER BLASTER CK3" and i have a lite on v7 drive

Thanks

 

need a login to view

 

Can you navigate to the actual page of the item your looking at and post the URL again, that link doesn't open to a product for me? Also can you look on your DVD Drive in the xbox and just post what firmware it says it has on it..

I've just ordered a blaster so it will be here no later than monday. If you want to wait till then I'll do mine and let you know how it goes?

ModKing, Xecuter clearly says you don't need the calibration data and loads of people have flashed the liteon using just a v1 probe and NOT performed the MRA hack without any issues. Why do you feel this MUST be done?! I'm not just posting to some random person posting on a forum, this is the official main guys on the manufacturers website?