Hi, Before I asked my question I have done a lot of research threw the forums but most things I read were from 2004, and now it being 2006 I was not sure of the relevance of the information since it is outdated. My question: I want to make back-up copies of my purchased dvd's. What is the proper software that is required to do this. Currently I have nero, clone dvd, and dvd shrink. Nero does not work because these dvd's are copy protected. I also do not want to lose any of the quality from orginal dvd to a burned copy, what is best so I do not lose the quality while keeping lal the menus and extras?
Try clicking on the link at the bottom of my sig and follow tons of links and guides to handle just about all your needs and questions.
If you download free 21 day trial of AnyDVD this will remove any copyright and then burn with Nero Recode or CloneDVD. Make sure you use good quality media such as Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden and burn at a slow speed, around 4X
Or if you have good media and equipment you can record at 6X or 8X, though I usually err to the safe side and record at 6X. If you have read errors, then you need to slow down. As mentioned, factory DVD movies are encrypted. So there's 3 basic steps to a DVD5 back up (2 for DL, no encode): Decrypt Encode Burn AnyDVD is the best retail app for decryption and the site link is http://www.slysoft.com/ . It has the trial, so take it for a spin. A similar freeware app is DVD43 at DVD43.com. Not close to AnyDVD though. DVDFab Decrypter is another free app. For a freeware encoder that's easily learned, it's hard to beat Shrink. Just load it, click Help on the toolbar, Help Topics, Guides and you have all the guides you need. Rebuilder with one of it's supported encoders is an excellent choice. The Pro version with CCE is top of the line. There are a lot of retail apps. DVDCopy 4 is a favorite of mine and then there's CloneDVD2. Slysoft sells it. I think they have a package deal with the AnyDVD. Nero Ultra has Recode. You can get the trial at Nero.com. No limit on trials, just have to reload periodically. DVD Decrypter or the newer writing version of the software, ImgBurn, is a good ISO writing app. Your encoder output has to be in ISO form to use this one. No problem with Shrink. Nero and the other burning apps work. Just about anything that will burn a DVD works. There are selected burners that work with Shrink so Shrink can start the burn without further user input. For the best quality on encoding to DVD5, the program Rebuilder is the best. The free HC encoder that comes with it is good. I prefer CCE though. Just a bit faster and I already owned it. Then of course there is DL recording. There you have the high capacity media and you don't have to encode (shrink) the files.
Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden are these the type of blank dvd's that your are speaking of? Also anydvd has a 21 day trial to it, after the 21 days can you just download it and run it again for another 21 days?
One trial with AnyDVD. Taiyo Yuden, Sony +R (MIJ or MIT), Ricoh, Fuji +R (MIJ), Verbatim (AZO, DatalifePlus or labeled MIJ), Maxell (MIJ) and TDK (MIJ) are all supposed to be good. The current Sony 8X +R (MIJ) is of Taiyo Yuden manufacture. I've recently used those and the Taiwanese Sony and both were excellent. The last Fuji 8X +R (MIJ) I used were TY as well. So, you have plenty of good choices. There is a media comparison guide at this link, take it with a grain of salt as there are errors. But overall, it gives a decent call on a bunch of the media. http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm
dont buy dynex i bought 50 of them cuz i was in a spot where i didnt have access to good dvd's and so ibought these crappy ones and they wont support 4.7 gigs full burn
I've never heard of that one. What is the manufacturer code (read with DVD Identifier, DVDInfoPro or similar disc utility)?
iamhead82 Only by illegal circumvention and some methods can kill your OS. If you want it, the safe and reasonable solution is to buy it.
Long ago, I remember reading that putting labels on DVD will cause degradation over time. I wonder if that's still true. I have done several DVD's that after I put a printed label on them, I started getting pixelation and freezes. I didn't get that before labeling. Is there a certain amount of time that I should wait before putting labels on or abandon the labeling idea completely? Used: Ridata DL 2.4X Maxell +R 8X TDK +R/-R 8X No problem with Verbatim 16x/DL 2.4X
Cman http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/291673 Look in on this thread about labels. Within it are several other links to refer to.
It's a matter of balance. Labels off center or otherwise out of balance can cause Jitter. Just picture the disc shaking like crazy as it spins and you have a good picture of Jitter. That level gets too high and you have read errors. Have it before burning an you get write errors. The label and adhesive has little effect on the laminate layer. As the label ages and the adhesive comes loose, you can have an increase in Jitter. So with labels, they can work now and mess you up later. I opted for a permanent marker pen on mine. Lot cheaper than all the ink and labels. If you like the artwork, there's labels you can make for the storage case.
Tanx Scuba. Its just a bit disturbing finding out you've been ruining your DVD's by putting labels on them. Live and learn. Guess I'll invest in the Epson R300 or R200 printer and do it the right way!
Yep BroBear, That's been happening as well. Usually takes a few months but perfect DVD's seem to go bad just sittin in their jewel cases. First I thought it was just cheap media but once I started buying better media, it continued happening. I'll definetly cease labeling with stick ons immediately. Tanx again!!
so does this apply for the same thing for DVD9 8.5GB Dual Layer movies??? 1. Decrypt (DVD Decrypter) 2. Encode (??? - don't know) 3. Burn Image (Nero, Alcohol 120%, DVD Decrypter, etc) i thought for DVD5 4.7GB movies all you have 2 do was 1. Decrypt (DVD Decrypter) 2. Burn Image (Nero, Alcohol 120%, DVD Decrypter, etc) PLEASE I REALLY NEED HELP...i've tried the guides but no luck thanx in advance
DL (DVD9) doesn't need to be encoded. Here's the way it goes. Factory DVD movies are usually larger in content than the 4.38GB capacity of a 4.7 disc (DVD5). So, when using a DVD5 as the target media, encoding (shrinking) is required. With the higher capacity DVD9, the files can be burned 1:1, no encoding needed. Since factory DVDs are encrypted, naturally the decryption process applies irregardless of media recorded to. However, I would advise getting a more up to date decryption utility, DVD Decrypter lost support some time back and newer encryption is being used by some of the studios. AnyDVD is tops, but then you have freeware like DVDFab Decrypter and DVD43.
Cman A few months for those labels to go bad is a bit fast. What kind of environment are you storing them in? I have some that are a couple of years old and the labels are still on and the recorded media checks out with low PiPO and Jitter readings and no read errors. They check as good as some of the new high quality media I have. This example was recorded in 04, the jitter is low and the PiPO barely spikes above 0 on the graph, you have to look closely to see it. It's Ricoh 4X +R media, possibly Memorex or Maxell under the label, the brand doesn't really matter as Ricoh manufactured quality media for several brands, including the likes of TDK, Fuji, Sony, and Verbatim. _________________________________
