Official docTY Taiyo Yuden thread

Update to what I posted in the quote -

I flashed the Sony with the BenQ164B (which it really is) BEGB firmware, rescanned with Nero CD-DVD Speed and got 82%. I played it in a 6 year old player that does not do DVD+R but it played anyway to about half way through where it choked on what I assume was the layer break. On a DVD+R player it sailed right through that point.

I am not sure what the lesson is here but it may be to flash your burner to what make it really is. Seems to make the scans more accurate anyway.

 

Hi everybody!
I have been following this thread, just lurking around! I have a Nec 3550A with 1.Y5 Liggy firmware. I never got good scan scores,I figured my drive must not be such a good scanner. So I just gave up on doing that, as the movies play flawlessly. I only used Nero to do the scans. I would post in a different thread, don't wanna abuse doc's thread, but the media/scan experts are here:~)!

Well, then I read a few posts behind as how burning at more than just X4 you might get better results. I tried that, and I discovered that also the scanning speed has a lot to do with the Q scores. I really don'r know the right way to do it( scan at the same speed like you burn, or faster, or slower?), so I am asking for input.

I used Maxell MIT(RITEK R03), Maxell MIJ(Maxell 002), Verbatim(MCC 003), and Sony MIJ(YUDEN000 T02). So, all DVD+R X8 rated media. The two Maxells I burned at X8 and the Verbatim I burned @X8(I could've gone all the way to X12, although is rated X8). The Sony(TY) I burned it @12(although I could've gone all the way to X16). Then I scanned them at the same speed that they were burned at. The quality scores look decent I guess?

Maxell DVD+R burned @X8


Maxell MIT burned @X8



Verbatim DVD+R X8 burned @X8



And Sony MIJ(TY) DVD+R X8 burned @X12



I tried to scan the same discs at different speeds than the ones they were burned at, and they failed miserably from the start, down to 60-80. So that's how it is, you have to scan using the same speed, or depends on the scanner? I also scanned some of the discs that I have previously burned at x4 or x6, like I was first tought, they all failed with scores in the 60's, 70's, no matter what speed I would use for scanning. I don't have any playback problems with absolutely none of them.
I just don't really know what to conclude: burn faster than just X4 or X6, if your burner/firmware/media allow it; how reliable is a scan afterall, if I can get difference of 20-30 points using the same media and scanner, just different scanning speed? And if it is really a reliable tool regarding disc quality, what is the right way to do it?

 

@jake

yes, if you order unbranded TYs from a reputable store online, you will 100% definitely get the YUDEN000T02 media ID coding~

as to your TY coding on those Verb MCC003s, i was gonna say, HOW THE HECK DID HE GET THOSE? what part of the country, assuming you are here in the U.S., did he buy HIS MEDIA from? LOL if you hadn't updated your findings, i was about to poke you to death with questions so i could get some "Verb TYs" (as creaky calls em') here in the U.S. LOL~

@cyprusrom

i have an NEC drive too, it's much older than the one you use, but it's the 3520a...i have it on my 2nd comp. as a backup drive, so i don't use it all that often...however, i CAN tell you that when it comes to Pioneer and NEC drives (in particular), you really shouldn't put too much weight on their quality scan results; my Pioneer dvr-109 (w/ hacked 8.58 buffalo firmware) and my NEC 3520a (w/ official 3.07 nec firmware) are by far the most INCONSISTENT scanners i have...with the pioneer being in front~ LOL i don't know if NEC has improved the quality of their drives in the more recent offerings, but remember, i have an older model that is a solid burner to base my opinions on...

i've ran the same disc through my benq and my liteon and then thru my pioneer and nec just for fun to see how big the discrepency would be...i got 97 (benq)/ 99 (liteon)/ 40 (pioneer)/ 65 (nec)...mind you, this is an unbranded 8x dvd+r YUDEN000T02 disc burned @8x (i burn everything @8x since i've been comfortable with that speed for the better part of 2 years)...so, yeah, those are the results (sorry, i don't have time to take screen shots/cut & paste/host pics/put them up here for "proof", but you're just gonna have to believe me) mind you the dvd plays FLAWLESSLY on all my standalone players without a hiccup as well as on the PC~

so, with the scans you have up, i would say that they are pretty darn good, regardless of what scanning speed you had set them on...while i am a big advocate of 'burning faster' than 4x, you wouldn't believe how long it's been since i've burned @4x LOL; i DO NOT suggest to "overburn" as you have done (ie. burning FASTER than the rated speed of the disc)

from MY experience, i burn the 8x rated MCC & TY discs @8x, NEVER slower, never faster...with the 16x rated MCCs and the 'not so good' 16x TYG03 dvd-r (my own opinion of course), i still maintain my @8x burn speed, but @12x on those i get very decent results, hellava lot better than burning @4x on a 16x rated quality disc~

we all have our pet peeves about scanning, many of our opinions will vary greatly as to which is the "best" prog. and what is the "best" speed to scan at...then you mix into the bowl WHICH drive you are actually using to scan and then you got a big debate about "my scores are accurate, urs are not..blah blah blah"...so i try not to get too caught up in the whole thing...

my suggestion to you, be content with your quality NEC burner, if it gives you great backups with no flaws/skipping/freezing/etc. during playback, use your quality scan scores as just a "guideline" and nothing more than that...as long as you use good quality media, those should remain as good as they are now when you first viewed them~

docTY~

 

Trust you ha?!I want "pretty pictures", and want them certified by an axpert to mke sure they were not altered!
HA,HA!! LOL, that was funny!

Well, I was thinking the same, that was the conclusion that I came to.I guess I just wanted an input from someone with a lot more burning experience that would confirm my deduction. I have no complains about my NEC burner. When I burn within the rated speeds(I only have so far 2 overburns:~), just to experiment, just because"I could" do it!), is quiet like a sleepin puppy while burning,since I got the mod firmware, and it booktypes! All the backups play flawlessly.

As for the quality media, those are the 4 types that I use only(remember I told you about those Maxell I once found, 50pk for a little under $6), I went back an I found some not just MIT but also MIJ.I got about 300 now.
Thanx. I'll go back to lurking...:~)!

 

LOL

you have NOW been "confirmed" have a good one~

docTy~

 

Before I knew which brands were better than others, I was using mostly Memorex +R and occasionally Sony +R to backup my DVD movies. I've had a few problems here and there with both but in general most of them played fine in my stand alone DVD player as well as my computer.

Once I began doing some research and read quite a few reviews stating that Memorex DVD's pretty much SUCK, I decided to put away what was left of my Memorex spindle and ordered 200 Taiyo Yuden -R 8x from supermedisstore.

The problem I have is that the backups that I make using the Taiyo Yudens ONLY play when in my DVD burner (SONY DRX-530UL), the internal DVD drive in my computer (read only) won't even recognize the discs and my stand-alone DVD player keeps giving me the message "Disc is dirty" which I have never seen it do before. I've tried this so far with about 7 discs, all with the same results.

I spoke to supermediastore and they are willing to replace the discs or credit me, however I'm still in the need of discs and according to what I've read TY is the way to go, so I'm trying to get to the bottom of this problem. I use DVD Fab Decrypter and Shrink/Nero to burn the backups. The only thing I can think of is that it has something to do with me using -R discs (since I've always used +R discs in the past), but the SONY DRX-530UL is capable of burning both +/- and I'm almost positive that I've played both +/- in my DVD player and computer before.

I'm stumped! Can any of you guys give me some insight as to what might be the problem?

Thanks.

 

@docTY: First off, sorry for the belated thank you on the SolidBurn information. I read it, but didn't have time to reply earlier. I was sort of thinking from reading in context that this is what it did, but since I'd never heard of that feature on a drive before, I wasn't comfortable making that assumption. I'm looking forward to trying it out on some cutting edge high quality media in the future.

@Novakane: You know, standalone players are a totally different animal, as far as I'm concerned. There are SO many different players out there, and each one seems a little different from the next. Sure, we can talk comfortably about rewriters, PS2s, and such, but that's because they fall into some general "buckets" and have consistent firmware. Thus, it's fairly easy to find out what media works with what burner or with a PS2. Here's an interesting scenario I just had today:

I bought this new Toshiba Progressive Scan standalone player just to try it out. My JVC was not playing movies that well (lots of artifacting) and I wanted a replacement. So, I try this player out with a TDK DVD-R (yes, I know that's pretty much junk media), since the player is supposed to play them, but not DVD+R (although I am pretty sure it would play booktyped to ROM, not that I'm ever going to find out...). So, the movie spins up, I start watching, and what happens? The movie starts freezing, skipping chapters, sometimes huge sections of the movie, because it doesn't like that particular media. Now my movies have all played fine in the JVC, with the exception of some artifacting. It NEVER skips whole chapters or freezes up. My Sanyo works pretty well, also, except it can't translate PAL into NTSC like the JVC. It, too, doesn't skip chapters or freeze that or any other disc I've tried.

Moral of the story: The easiest variables to control are the media you use and the burner you use to burn it with. So, use the best of both and find a standalone that will accept the best, since settling for less just because it's compatible is going to leave you with a bunch of rapidly decaying media that will soon be a stack of coasters.

 

@Novakane
Just out of curiousity, what's the model # of the stand alone player you're trying the -TY 8x media on. I'm curious because I had the same problem about a month ago with the same media. I purchased a 100 spool and finally had to return them. I have 2 stand alones and both will not play TY-R 8x. Both have played everything perfectly in the + and - formats that I've ever thown at them including + -RW, never any problems. The only exception is they won't play TY 8x -R. Both play TY +R's and everything else flawlessly without booktyping. Which I can't do on my Pioneer drive without upgrading to hacked firmware. Anyway just wondering, since -R is SUPPOSED to be more compatible in stand alones and we're the only 2 that I've ever heard of having this problem. Oh if your interested my stand alones are Apex AD-1500 and Memeorex MVD2042.

 

The old scenereo that dvd-r's are more compatable with stand alone dvd players really no longer holds water. If anything the newer stand alone players are more compatable with dvd+r's. For older stand alone players (3+ yrs) the old rule that dvd-r's are more compatable generally still applies. You can plug your make of stand alone player in here http://www.videohelp.com/dvdplayers.php then locate your model to find out what media and format it does and doesn't like.

 

@mort81: I'm glad you shared that information about DVD-Video players being more compatible with DVD+Rs nowadays. I'd really like to limit myself to maybe one or two types of DVD media, if possible (Taiyo Yudens are a must-have, I'll always be keeping some of those around, and since I tend to find Verbatims on sale quite a bit, I was thinking of buying DVD+Rs of those, as well.). My Lite-On drive doesn't seem to like my Verbatims very much (scans show many more errors and failures, so far, and one actually failed), so I'm hoping the Benq will perform as admirably as others have reported.

 

delateur,

My litey SOHW-1633S didn't used to like verbatim dvd+r's but after a crossflash with SOHW-1653S firmware and an eeprom reset with the lite-on eeprom utility available here http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=83441 it burns the verbatim's nearly as well as my benq DW1620.

 

@mort81: Hey, that's great info! Since I'm only really banking on Verbs and TYs for my burning needs, I'll go ahead and follow suit. I'll let you know how it turns out when I next need to burn something. Thanks!

Edit: Ok, flashed myself a modified KSOB, reset my learned settings with that utility, and burned a Verb that I'd swear was a TY, another 100% using a quickscan, that's what I like to see! Thanks, mort, I think this is the best my Lite-On has run since I got it.

 

Jake02 as kivory said you will be fine with the TY DVD+R coding out as the real thing iam sure of it

that just stumps me with the TY DVD-R not playing on your standalone guys i use the TYGO2s DVD-R on 100s of dvd players and i think only two decks havent worked . IMHO i just think its an compatible issue between the burner/software used, Jake if your interested PM me and i will send you a TYGO2 DVD-R that i burned with my Plextor using clonedvd 2 with anydvd and see if it works on your Apex i would almost bet it would play on your standalone

 

delateur,

Glad to hear that litey is back up to snuff. Little tricks I've learned over the years of owning a lite-on. Happy burning.

 

I ordered some TY DVD+R media from Meritline. I got them yesterday and I'm positive that they're the real thing. I always check out the coding on the disc and the manufacturer. The coding on the inner hub of the disc is TG001162, the manufacturer name is Taiyo Yuden Co. Ltd., the manufacturer ID is Yuden000 and the media type ID is T02. This is genuine TY media, right?

 

@DakotaFan
Those TY's code exactly like my Sony MIJ(made by TY) DVD+R X8 that I have. Same media ID and same code on the inner hub.

 

DakotaFan
yes there the real thing you never have to worry about getting fakes from meritline,supermediastore,rima or newegg there all top notch seller of TY media

 

I'm having a little trouble with my nero cd-dvd speed scans. First of all, the scans don't show the PI Failures and secondly the speed on the bottom right corner is always around 1x even though I set the speed to 4x (kinda similar to some of Tokijin's scans before he cross flashed it).

I tried to look up for firmware for my Philips dvd+-rw dvd8701 but couldn't find any. After some research, I found some people said that Philips 8701 is a rebadged of BenQ 1640. So I'm wondering rather cross flashing would help? What is the main advantage of cross flashing it? And could someone please tell me how to do that as I have no clue what cross flashing means.

 

Hello Guys,
Does anybody know what the difference betwween
the Verbatim Data Life Plus 8x and those regular
Verbatim 8x??


thanks

 

Yujenh,

the datalifeplus's used to be a better grade but it makes no difference anymore. all verbatim now should be made by mitsubishi chemical company with the exception of some being made by taiyo yuden but these are not available in the states. stay away from the pearl whites as they were being made by cmc mag but are now made by ritek.