Official docTY Taiyo Yuden thread

No you don't need to download the earliest firmware, just the one you want to crossflash it with, obviously the latest. I'm not sure if uninstalling Nero would affect the crossflash. Why uninstall it in that case? Unless it's conflicting with something else. I have Nero, DVD Decrypter, CDRWIN, CloneCD, ImgBurn, Alcohol 120% and have never noticed any conflicts. The advantages of Crossflashing really depend on what features your default firmware offers. For me, I wasn't nearly getting the full functionality of the BenQ DW 1640, so it was an easy choice. You need to look at the features of your default firmware vs. the features of an BenQ 1640 Firmware. For me it unlocked PI/PO scanning, overspeed, WOPC, auto bootyping, and SolidBurn (may have that before, not sure). It's really up to you. If it aint broke don't fix it. Then again that's what people told me and I crossflashed anyway. It's up to you.

 

@Jurgennop: With regard to reducing errors:

1) Use the best media you can, I recommend Taiyo Yuden, Verbatim, or Sony, in that order of preference (I have no personal experience with Sony, myself, but I've been reading that the quality of Sony is pretty darned good).

2) Eliminate as much background activity as possible when burning.

3) With the exception of 16x media, burn at the maximum rated speed of the disc, no faster. With GOOD 16x media, I would go as high as 12x, but no higher.

4) Use the latest firmware.

5) Try to find out what media your drive "likes." By this, I mean try to use quality media that your drive seems to perform best with. For instance, docTY swears by his Benq when he's burning any quality DVD+R media, but he feels his Lite-On works better for his quality DVD-R media. As for me, I have a Lite-On 1693S, and once I switched to KSOB firmware (from an experimental firmware which worked fine with TY's, but hated Verbatim MCC003s), I've had very good quality burns. I use TY and Verbatim DVD+Rs, 8x max burn speed.

6) Although I'm sure this probably goes without saying, don't burn directly from one disc to another. Always burn from an image file off of the hard drive.

That's all I can think of for reducing errors, short of replacing your drive, if none of those things help...

Good luck!

 

thx a lot,but can anyone explain what PI errors are?

 

http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=158522

 

I'm concerned with using the best DVD-R Media available, since, along with copying my DVD collection, I am a photographer, and need reliable file archiving. I just started burning DVDs recently, and I've already experienced some failures. I started out using "Ritek Ridata" 8X white inkjet hub printable purchased from Supermediastore.com. I've been writing at "8X" on an EZQuest external drive, but, due to the limitations of my system (MAC G4 Dual 866 / Firewire 400) the speed of the write is actually slower. Many of my DVDs skip and freeze after only 2 or 3 months. I've now switched to "Taiyo Yuden" 8X white injet hub printable (purchased from Rima.com), and selected a burn speed of 4X, and so far, so good. However, my concern is whether these DVD-Rs are genuine, and how to tell if they are. The hubs bear the mark VH520A302481GG, OR YE519A409206GG. They come tape-wrapped in hundreds and the name Taiyo Yuden is not in evidence. They cost about $45/hundred. Any advice?
Thanks

 

Well, I am not a real expert in here but i am here first so i will kinda anwser your question. If you get yours from rima. com its almost gurantee to be 100% real. I havent bought it from them but according to the guys in AD they will verify that rima sell authentic. The supermedia.com have a very complete method to tell you how to determine whether the TYs are real or not. Whats the serial number in the inner circle?? It should be GG0000xx or GG000xxx.

 

The serial numbers are VH520A302481GG, OR YE519A409206GG. Does that make sense?

 

i think the serial number on the outer box or something.
the number i mentioned is on imprinted on the blank dvd.
If you click the page 1 and read the first post by Doc then
you will know what i am talking about.
I am not sure which TYs you get but I am sure that
supermedia right now have a better deal.

 

sorry man,
the once you bought were the expensive kind.
the inkjet printable are suppose to be more
expensive then the shinny silver ones i bought.

 

@fauxlimey those are the wrong numbers, the ones you are looking for are not in the clear plastic area. they are under the silver paint, turn the disc over so you are looking at the burn side ( purple )they are hard to see but look closely and rotate the angle of the disc. there are two places that have numbers stright across from each other.


wrench

 

Got it. They are GG000xxx, so it looks like they're the real deal.
Thanks!

 

i just got back from best buy with
200 16x DVD+r. my questions is how is the
quality compare to the ty03??

thanks

 

I'm not sure you gave us enough information to determine that, Yujenh. We're going to need the brand name, at least.

 

Sorry guys, my mistake.
I am trying to compare the 16x Verbatim Dvd+r or -r
and the Taiyo Yuden 16X DVD-r. Which one get higher result??
On my first couple burn with my new burner DW1650 the best I got on the verb is 96. Whar are some other way to determine if this is good burn or not??

truely appreciated guys

 

A 96 is very good, espcially for 16x media. I wouldn't fret if you get 95+ scores consistently with 16x media.


93. Q. How can I tell if my burned disc is of good quality?
A. Well besides you using quality media like Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim's, you can use a program called Nero CD/DVD Speed to measure the quality of your discs. It measures POF, PIF and gives your disc a quality score based largely on it's prerecorded Media ID. In my experience that's the key component to getting a good quality score. A crap manufacturer like CMC Mag won't maintain a great quality score over time, even if you follow all the advice given on AD for successful burning. You don't need to know exactly what PIF's and POF's are, just know the more of them, the more likely your disc will skip, lag, freeze, or not boot at all. When people say CMC Mag or Memorex media is crap, that info is based largely on many Nero CD/DVD Speed scans by burn enthusiasts on CMC Mag media that have yielded terrible quality scores. Try it yourself and see. You can find Nero CD/DVD Speed here: http://www.cdspeed2000.com/go.php3?link=download.html Plextor DVD Burners aren't compatible with Nero CD/DVD Speed. For their DVD Burners you need to use a program called Plextools, which does about the same thing as Nero CD/DVD Speed minus the quality score. You can find Plextools here: http://www.plextools.com/download/download.asp
DVDInfoPro is a popular alternative to CD/DVD Speed: http://www.dvdinfopro.com/
K-probe is a scanner specifically for Liteon Burners: http://www.cdrlabs.com/kprobe/

 

thanks tokijin
i guess i am little bit more obessed with trying to reach at
least 98 becuase i have never got it before. which would be the best chance to get to 98?? TYG02 or the Verbatim 8x??
where have Doc been?? it seems like he haven show up in ages.

 

Dunno about Doc. I think he really is a Doctor, so he's probably on call or something. I wouldn't obsess over 98 and 99's unless you have playback issues. A couple of the Verb's I've scanned are 96's. I tend to get 97-99 almost everytime with TY and Verb. The lowest I've gotten recently is a 91, which must've been a slighly defective disc or some other issue. It plays fine, so who cares? If you really want 98's and 99's go with the Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD+R's. Those seem to give the best results on my Sony DRU 810A/BenQ 1640. Of course everybody's burner is different. Experiment with different types of quality media.

 

Yujenh: What media code did the discs come up as? I saw a pack of Verbatims earlier & they were Made in Taiwan so they couldnt have been Taiyo Yuden.