I am trying to burn a new MP3 CD for my car but it is not working. The last CD I burnt still works fine, but I have wasted about a dozen disks already trying to burn a new one that works, none of them do. Nothing changed since the last time I burnt, so why wont it work? Car's CD Player: Clarion, CDR/RW MP3/WMA compatible, several years old Computer OS: Vista Home Premium Media: Maxell 700MB CD-R I have changed no settings, and am even using the same disks as before, but anything I burn wont work. I have tried burning with Windows Explorer, Media Player, and Nero. I have tried live file systems and Mastered file systems. I have tried burning disk-at-once and track-at-once. I have tried different speeds from 48x to 16x (the slowest speed I can choose). NOTHING WORKS please, any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
where would I find my nero log? Also, the new CDs I burn will work in some other CD players, but even in the other ones, where it will take 5 or 10 seconds to read and be ready to play after inserting a disk, these new disks I burn are taking about a minute and a half to read and be ready to play. But my car's player just keeps trying to read it indefinitely, as long as I dont stop it it will keep trying.
Attempting to read forever... why does that sound like an unfinalized disk? The clue is they will work in some players.. check in the nero burn settings and make sure that "start multisession" isn't ticked.
nope i have a checkbox it says something like "allow files to be added later (multisession disk)" and the box is always unchecked. And when using windows explorer to burn, I always choose "mastered file system" it still never works yet it worked before. I just dont get it. The fact that it worked in the cd player at work but wont in my car is really baffling me, but like I said, it takes forever to read at work but eventually it does work. My car tries to read it forever without ever actually getting anything accomplished
Then it's either your disks, burner or a combination of both. Unless.. it may be drm related. Lots of drm features added to M$ software recently.
Have you tried running a cd cleaning disc on your car stereo? Lens could have dust or something on it.
Well said, but you would assume that all disks would be having problems, not just new burns. Now here is an odd observation.. blank media seems to have a definite shelf life. I find for cd-r it's about 3 years from manufacture until they start to exhibit weak burns and odd failures. I have a very picky portable device and I found that disks will sometimes sort themselves out after they have been played a couple of times in something else.. My first course of action though, seeing as cd-r's are dirt cheap, would be to try a different brand. Not all cd-r's are equal, just like players.
Your right, didn't think about that part. I have this happen with a couple low end blank dvd-r's, played fine, left them sitting for a couple years or so and then just didn't work anymore. Guess thats why you should only buy quality media, Learned my lesson.
well I have something new to add that completely boggles the sh*t outta me lol. Those new burns, still work in the player at work, but not in my car player. For the sake of comparison, I quickly rigged up another car player that I had laying around in my closet. The new burns and old burns both play fine. New burns still dont play in my car, yet the old burns do. And as far as media "shelf life" the old burns and the new burns are all burnt on the same disks, from the same spindle. For curiosity's sake, where would Maxell CD-R stand on the qualtiy scale? I've always thought of it to be considerably good.
i got an update for you. Now, although I cant figure out why my new burns didnt work before, I did get some to work now. Before I was burning at 16x. I always used 16x before, and it worked fine. Then one day it quit working, and i had all the problems listed above. I was told that if a burn doesnt work, to slow it down, well 16x was the slowest I could pick. So for shits and giggles I burned a disk at 24x.... it works fine everywhere. No idea why. So I have found a solution to my problem, I'll just burn at 24x rather than 16x, but if someone could still tell me why my 16x burns werent working, that would be nice cuz that still confuses me.
That's down to your burner ageing. It's probably suffering from what is known as "buffer overrun" where it is getting more data down the line than it can handle, and pausing while it sorts itself out. Some players don't seem to mind the pauses in burns, where others throw a wobbler and don't want to know about it. 16 is usually fine tho.. so something somewhere has changed, even if it seems totally unrelated. Possibly a mobo driver has updated or been changed by some unrelated bit of software.
As a drive ages, its laser diode loses power and the bearings in the motor and gears tend to wear. This changes the power calibration levels but has nothing to do with buffer underruns which are controlled by the RAM in the computer and in the drive itself. (This is flash memory which relies on exchanges of electrons in the chip's memory matrix.) Over time the record laser and the Clarion read laser have aged, and both or either of their aging could be factors. The fact that other players are struggling to start to read the discs means that the recordings being made are likely to be poor quality recordings caused by improper laser levels or even misaligned laser marks. (The slowness to respond could be due to the players' struggle to find the lead-in track and resolve it. That's often a sign of misalignment as much as it is of poor signal levels.) Today's most common CD-Rs use fast-reacting phthalocyanine dyes with a short write strategy. The dyes have been thinned out to respond to record speeds of 48 and 52X and often perform poorly at speeds lower than 24X. Taiyo Yuden uses a slower reacting azo cyanine dye with a long write strategy that performs better at slow speeds and less well at high speeds. Maxell Pro CD-Rs are manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, so a better choice with them is to search for slower than rated speeds to get better recordings. For other discs, 24X or 32X are probably the best compromise for discs rated at 52X. Slower than 24X will too often result in high jitter rates and unstable pit edges.
Did anybody see me use the words "buffer ubderrun"? NO.. I was more about the overrun situation where the drive receives more data than it can burn and causes an interrupt when requesting the next block.. You can see the drive pause while it waits for the next delivery. The wear and tear explanation sounds good. Most of the older drives I see refuse to burn faster than 16-24 without errors.
Buffers don't overrun unless the clock is screwed up and loses track of what came in when. That's a serious problem that would ruin all recordings.
