Whats the rules for getting a CD/DVD out of your reader? Do I just eject and shut it off, or do I shut it off first, then eject it?
Hi, I Installed the 1 switch method (like the org on the 1st page) except I didn’t cut any wires in the intention that I could use original functionality instead of cutting and extending wires and another switch. After a week or so the ps3 doesn’t pull the disc in even though the blue light flashes so I have to use the switch but the eject button/option (on case and on hypervisor) works fine (for the moment). And yes I do wait the 8mins 30 although I don’t think that the time I wait would affect this particular problem. Is there any way to get it to work properly without having to buy a new ps3 or bluray drive? also I found a ps3 from Hong Kong in the uk for £40 (which defeats the object of the first sentence) and if I swapped the drive from that would that mean that I couldn’t play my uk pal ps/2 games (I got a uk pal ps3) because I know that ps/2 from other regions don’t work but ps3 games do. The reason I ask the this question is because I haven’t got a ps2! (Shock horror) Sorry its rather long!
What do you mean by "I didn’t cut any wires"? You kept both the original motor wires and the new ones coming from the switch attached to the motor? I think this will return a feedback to whatever the original wires coming from.. and this is bad.
I did exactly the same. I kept the original wires so I could use the switch or the button, and after a while, the button didnt work anymore.. Now if I want to change discs (non bakups) I just press the eject button and use switch to eject. I dont know if there is a solution (buying new drive is little expensive for this little bad thing)
indeed, keeping the original wires sends the switch power to the motherboard and this is prolly what killed the internal eject. I'm certain this is mentionned in the thread somewhere.. Man someone needs to definitely amend the first post. btw, i didn't cut any wires either. there is a mini connector on the bottom left of the drive that you just needed to unplug! There's a pic of mine showing this, maybe between page 4 and 7 of the thread. If a better solution (..) is ever released, just unsolder the switch wires, plug the connector back and the ps3 is brand new again!
Yeah...as u can see im new and just now learning and studying this mod... i have all the materials needed im just concered about my switch...its center off toggle switch 10A 125VAC 6A 250VAC this was the only one they had when i went to the store and im wondering if i can use this one with the regular 3v method or am i going to have to supply a different amount of power to it or anything else... by the way im just doin the standard original way...one switch, no original functionality...thanks for any help and answers...
No it's a good switch. 10A 125VAC 6A only sais thats the maximum ammount of energy the switch can handle. I also see on the picture you dont have to solder wires on the switch, but you can screw wires on switch.
okay okay....i tried the method last night...and i dont know it just seemed like my drive just wasnt strong enough to pull the disk in maybe due to some bad soldering or just some weak generic batteries...so i ended up desoldering everything...and ima get some namebrand bateries and try again...just hope i didnt fry my board
Hello all, Yesterday, I sat down and read ALL 23 pages of this awesome mod(which was no easy task) and even though i did get through it all, i still have a couple of questions . They are as follows: For the PS1 (PSX): 1. Do I still need to find the largest TOC PS1 orig. game or does the size not matter with PS1 games? And if it does matter, what would be the best game to do the job? 2. Could a PS2 CD do the job or does it have to be PS1? For the PS2: 1. So in order to have full range over all the PS2 games, I would need a PS2 CD for CD backups(Ico ), a PS2 DVD5(Devil May Cry) for single layer DVDs, and a PS2 DVD9(God of War) for dual layer DVDs(MGS3)? Which means I'll need a total of 3 orig. disks? 2. Has anyone found out if the laser is really burning out because of premature ejaculatio- i mean ejection? Or is it rolling into standby after verifying the system checks or whatever until you actually press the game?(This question actually goes for both PS1 and PS2). I have not gotten my PS3 yet but i was eyeing this thread in hopes of doing it when i get mine and i wanted to know if i needed a total of 4 orig. disks(PS1 CD, PS2 CD, PS2 DVD5, PS2 DVD9). I was planning on using alien1201's 2 switch method to keep my orig. funtionality . If anyone could tell me their results it would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for any replies. Big props to everyone who has stuck with this thread, Pizzag for the great idea, alien1201, ChokeDYou, tsrps3, and anyothers that i didn't mention. You guys are the shit . Oh and once i start doing my mod, i hope to post help by video taping everything and posting it on youtube and see if i cant give back a little to you guys . Later dudes. Peace.
PS1: 1. Yes TOC matters for PS1 game. Region as well!! If you are on USA PS3 and want to play PAL PS1 game, you need to patch the PAL PS1 game with a program called "SetRegion" and set it to "USA". Then just load an original USA PS1 game with TOC bigger than backup, and swap with the patched backup and it works OK. (this is different from ps2 games, their region doesn't matter and you don't need to patch backups. In a sense, PS1 protection is more evolved than PS2 protection on PS3 hahah) 2. Absolutely not, a ps2 disc cannot boot a ps1 disc. PS2: 1. That's perfectly right. 2. for both ps1/2, yes, the laser is really burning is you swap while it's active. you MUST wait 8m30 after inserting the disc to be totally safe for swapping. Later, TSR
Thanks for the speedy reply tsrps3 and for the info. One more thing, could you tell me what the best TOC PS1 and PS2 CD orig. games are? Because my friend is already letting me borrow God of War (pretty much forever hehe) and im going to go pick up the Devil May Cry Collection i saw at Gamestop. P.S. Also, what gauge wire should i use for my wiring? Right now I'm looking at 22AWG solid wire from my local RadioShack. Is that thin enough and flexible enough? I'm probably going to make a little black box similar to your cassette case to house my two switches and battery pack. Thanks in advance for replies. Peace.
I have an early jpn ps3, i use Xenogears CD1 as JPN CD PS1 original (toc is huge). I use a JPN "Surveillance" demo to boot PS2 CD games.(dunno the US name for this one). About the wire gauge thing, i've no idea sorry, i used whatever small wires i had laying around ^_^; Later, TSR
Okay thanks again. I'll probably just walk into Gamestop and buy the US version of Xenosaga and see what i can do about the PS2 CD. I went to RadioShack today and bought some 24AWG wire(RadioShack catalog #: 278-858) that was like 4 wires all connected but i think i can just pull them apart if needed. I found my Load/Eject switch(RadioShack catalog #: 275-664) and a case(RadioShack catalog #: 270-1802) so I'm going to start hooking it up either today or tomorrow. Oh and the 2xAAA battery pack i got was RadioShack catalog #:270-3988. Just wanted to let everyone know what i got in case they were looking . I wasn't able to find the other switch that alien1201 had and i can't order it online so if anyone could tell me the RadioShack equivalent, it would be greatly appreciated seeing as how they ship anything you want to a local store from online. Thanks in advance my brethren and happy April 9(which is no major holiday but i just wanted to wish you all a good day haha). P.S. Wanted to know, when the load/eject switch is in the middle off position, is it sucking power from the battery pack? And if that's the case, that means that the batteries are going to get drained pretty quickly I'm guessing? Peace.