Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?

I had this problem once with a console not connecting to wifi/bluetooth and it turned out for me that the problem was the ribbon cable not being properly seated. I would check this first. I do know for a fact tho that if the board isnt detected the machine will power up normally but wifi/bluetooth wont work at all, so im suspecting this is a connection problem (like mine)

However if your ribbon cable turns out to be ok and your still having issues let us know. (I have a couple spare wifi boards if you need one)

Wiiman

 

I think gilksy has a point here, the thermal compound is only there to conduct heat, too much of it and it simply doesnt do the job. As for the rebending of the clamps/using the bolts from the new 40gig units this is definately worth looking into.

I've been thinking a lot lately about what actually causes the ylod in the first place and why a lot of people are having to contantly reflow their systems. My thoughts on it are as follows.

1. The system is naturally exposed to extreme heating a cooling, causing the metal clamp plates to flex. Over time they will lose their bend and not hold as well. I figure this is whats causing the solder on the chips to crack/break connection.

2. The reflow works in the short term because you are remelting the solder joints, but im thinking in most cases only slightly..So as soon as the clamps flex again from the heat your back to square one.

3. The liquid flux idea seems to help the remelt, as does a longer, higher heat reflow.

Im gonna look into the new bolts and do some measuring as it may help to solve the ylod prolem. I know we're close here guys, Keep posting!!

P.S How many people wonder if Sony engineers are reading this thread hoping we really find a solution

 

i dont think it's the ribbon cable because the previous day the bluetooth worked fine ,and the next time that happened without me opening it at all...

i really have to know first if an ethernet connection can be established without the bluetooth board connected , else i believe it will be a waste for me to buy a new bluetooth board cause that will mean that the problem has to do with the motherboard if it gets connected!

 

guys please can someone do the test ? i really need to know if it works or now so i can buy the parts, else i am gonna buy a new one...

please i would appreciate it!

 

Tested the wifi without the board connected and wifi doesnt work. (Did a connection test, comes back and says it timed out, no other errors) As for the wired connection on the mainboard sorry but the way my computers are laid out I cant test it. Hope this helps

 

no you misunderstood me . i need you to do an ethernet connection without the Bluetooth board connect ...not a wifi connection...since wi fi antenna is connected on the bluetooth board..can you give it one more go please ? i really have to know !

just tell me if it connects via ethernet without the BT board connected , thats all i need to know

 

just noticed you cant test it thats okay appreciate the help ! anyone else can try please ?

 

OK guys, I've found some flux so on my next inevitable YLoD I'll be using some of that as well as a longer and hotter reflow than usaul. I'll also bend those clamps as well to try to get more pressure on the board.

Whenever I take the system apart, there never seems to be much of the Arctic Silver on the cooling system, but I'm confidant I'm putting on the right amount of compound. I don't want to put more on than usual, so hopefully the extra clamp pressure helps with the heat transfer.

I'll let you guys know how I go.

 

Panedi, for your info : after my last (2nd) YOLD I forgot to plug the blutooth / wifi board.
-> no ethernet connection possible
I replugged it and everything works fine now.

 

thanks for your reply , so i guess i am gonna order a new bluetooth board and see how it goes!

 

Okay, I know this is a dumb question but can someone make a picture of what clamps do I need to apply pressure? Where are those clamps?

I am going to attempt my second reflow sometime, and I want it to be the last..

Thanks.

 

its the two metal things with the 4 fat screws that tie the cooler with the motherboard!

 

I found that the two surfaces are not 100% flat and thats why you need more than what the giude states,

I have taken three apart after ylodding again 2 40gb and 1 60gb, each one had dry spots after disassembly.

after smoothing the compound on, if you put a small dab in the middle of the bga's it makes 100% contact,

Then just to add for more pressure one 6.4mm c-type washer to each clamp screw,

This works PROPPER

Thanks

 

Okay I got it. Thank you!

 

Hey guys,

Just a quick update here, I have now repaired 4 additional units using liquid flux and all 4 are still working perfectly I would seriously recommend this to anyone who has had to reflow their machine more than once.

Anyways I also have a PS3 with a different kind of YLOD failure and im hoping someone can help me out. What this machine is doing is starting and running for about 5 seconds (the amount of time it takes the unit to boot up) then just when you would expect to see the startup screen it YLOD's out. Also the machine will let me adjust the display settings, (switch between composit and HDMI) and will format hard drives. Its just when it tries to boot up the system that it fails.

I've tried the reflow to no avail and im thinking this is a corrupt firmware situation, however (and heres the kicker) this is an older 60gb machine and doesnt have the system restore menu! So if anyone else has come across a machine with this problem or knows how to restore/overwrite the firmware without using the restore menu let me know.

 

got a question after i upgate to 2.76 my blue ray went out and i took my ps3 apart to look at it and clean the laser after i clean the laser my 2yr somehow dropped a screw into the power supply area and i turned it back on and it tripped my surge protector. after i reset my ps3 would not come on checked the fuse and it was blown. i then jumped it out to see what else was damaged and i now have no hdmi or av video.. so my thought are the power supply sends some type of low voltage to the motherboard to make the video output works. any ideas on how i can fix it?? besides getting new parts??

 

gilsky, you're a lifesaver. YLOD thoroughly erradicated thanks to your guide. However, now I have a new problem. From the moment I turn on my PS3, the fan speeds up through all of the fan cycles all the way up to top speed in about 30 seconds. The system seems to be running cool, the air coming out is quite cool. But for some reason the system is kicking the fan into high gear anyways. Do you know if there is some thermal sensor on the board that I might have fried, or maybe bad heat sink contact? I'm afraid to leave it on when the fan is running like that regardless of how cool the air is. I have full functionality, system is running great aside from the fan. Have you experienced anything similar with systems you've worked on? Any ideas? Any help would be much appreciated...

 

seems like your heatsink compound is spread to thick!!

this normally gives the fault you are experiencing!

sort it straight away before it ylods again!

 

Did you check the one fuse or both fuses on the power supply? The second one is a little harder to see as its burried under the copper heatsink in the middle of the board. The rating on the second fuse is 250V 4.5A if I remember correctly. Also watch out for the capacitor laying on its side in that area, if you short it out you'll get a real nice spark show!

 

does this second fuse have to do anything with video output?? cause with first fuse jumped out it will come on..