Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?

I wouldn't believe everything you read

I recently moved house so had to ethernet my internet (long story) until my "real" internet gets sorted .. anyway, last night while fiddling with the ethernet cable on the back of the PS3 I noticed it was blowing out an AWFUL lot of REALLY hot air, and the table it sits on was rather warm too. This was just while watching a movie.

The only reason I was checking the cable was that every 2 minutes or so I would get a message saying "An ethernet cable is not plugged in" or something .. and would always disconnect me.

I rebooted the PS3 and managed to play MW2 after the movie and didn't see the message again.

The slim does some weird stuff though .. and it's kind of concerning me. Sometimes it says "PlayTV tuner failed to initialise, please check the connection" or something while starting PlayTV, but then PlayTV works fine!

Other times, when I turn it with controller, the controller loses its pairing (and no it's not flat etc etc). I have to then plug controller in, let it pair, shut down while still plugged in, pull cable out and start up via control, sometimes have to do this twice before it pairs again.

Anyway .. hope the innards aren't knackered on this one. Given the different "diconnections" I think I might take it back if it keeps happening!

I love PS3's, but getting pretty annoyed!

 

sorry there wallyhale, i accidentally added something to your post.

"when you mentioned it i do get an Ethernet disconnection and have to fiddle it to make it work again , and sometimes the main menu pop's up without pressing the ps button, this happens on the 250gb ps3 slim"

here's my post.

 

The main menu popping up is a bit of a strange one! Hopefully they are releasing a firmware update which will resolve some of these issues. I have done some searching and the forgetting of controllers seems to be quite common

On my 60GB PS3 the control would "freeze" sometimes in game (not good for multiplayer Modern Warfare .. haha!) and would be stuck on whatever button you were pressing last, so turning right for instance the control would become unresponsive and I would just spin in circles for about 5 seconds then it would be ok again. Bad if you are cooking a grenade!

To get my ethernet cable problem sorted, I think I went through and set the connection up again (wifi shared on Mac then Ethernet from Mac to PS3) and then rebooted. So don't know which one actually resolved it and how long it will last!

I also notice since either the 1.7 MW2 update OR the dodgy internet connection I have at the moment, MW2 is REALLY chunky when playing Spec Ops, and the BluRay drive is going mental reading. It's almost like it's trying to compensate for a slow internet and working overtime to keep up

To keep this on topic .. I hope it's not stressing the Slim out too much and bringing on an early death!

 

Hey everybody i bought two ps3's one is the 60 gig launch model it had the (ylod) anyway reflowed it and its working. now the wifi isn't working and the controllers aren't working either they work when there connected but the wifi screen says scanning and the wifi lights aren blinking. did i mess something up? because the bluetooth and the wifi are in the same module right? Help!!!!

 

Hi guys!

First post here, looking for some assistance...ok I have a 40GB that was sent in for YLOD and I got it back and the warranty is now gone, the problem was that about 5 minutes after turning on, regardless of what I was doing (XMB,game,media anything), the fan would kick into high gear. It would start at low and within about a minute from starting on low it would get to jet turbine loud then overheat and prompt me to turn off.

What is weird is that the air blowing out was cool, and the case felt cool, same with the disc.

Anyway so I have done a few successful reflows before so I took the cover off this 40GB unit and figured maybe the heatsinks weren't getting enough contact, hence the quick overheat, so I did the clamp bend and added new thermal compound.

Well now it doesn't overheat, BUT, the fan still kicks into jet turbine crazy loud after a few minutes still, even when just in XMB. It doesn't overheat anymore, just the fan kicks up and is super loud. Same as before the air blowing out is cold and the ps3 is cold to the touch, or cool rather.

i am thinking possibly a thermal sensor issue??? Anyone have any ideas because the noise is FREAKING loud as heck.

Cheers!!!...and Gilksy you rock mate!

 

I had the same problem the first time I did a reflow: check you have not made the same error I made. When reassembling the PS3, I neglected to connect the ribbon cable to the wifi board (the small oddly shaped board at the front left of the PS3, in front of the power unit - at least on the 40GB model anyway). It is easy to do because when you attach the main motherboard to the metal plate you need to remember to feed the ribbon cable through the slot - if you don't, you just won't see it and probably won't realise you have not fully connected up the wifi board.

Once I found this out and ensured the ribbon cable was connected, it worked fine.

 

How much is sony charging these dayz to replace the ylod without warranty?

 

Aizen, i'm sorry, but only 2 or 3 days ago i answered that.. It's EVEN on this page... Read it?

Taz.

 

lol i missed that... I must be going blind w/ my old age thanks kid

Thats sux some of those sony reps can be really annoying.

 

It's the fact they are so limited on choice, and the price you have to pay for something you wouldn't accept if there were other options.

I need a new PS3, but i'm just not going to sell my old one. I could get £100 to £150 for it, but then it's lost forever. If I save and sell some of my un-wanted games, I effectively have 2 PS3's, just one needs fixing, that's all.

Taz.

 

First post here. Been following along for quite awhile now and have read most of this thread. Figured I would sign up and give you guys some info that I have found over the past month or so. Sony's fix is not the answer.

If you are going to spend a few bucks on something (I've seriously considered this especially since it's local to me) Check this site out.

gamesmithrepairs.com/prices/prices.htm


Local place here near Columbus, OH that offers reballing for the PS3. They will reball with lead based solder for 99 bucks. Still a fair amount cheaper than Sony and then it's completely fixed and likely fixed for good. They also offer lifetime warranty on the reballing.

 

So here's a new one for anyone that's still reading this thread. I am open to suggestions. I just literally about 20 min ago finished a YLOD repair with a heat gun. I have a temp gauge on the gun and was between 700-750F for about 25-35 seconds on each area on the front and back. I also prepped the board with flux and cleaned the board up a bit afterwards with some alcohol.

I used Arctic Silver thermal paste on both chips and when I secured the clamps down I bent them just a tiny bit for more pressure and used two 6mm washers above the plates and below the head of the screws. Everything was put back together correctly.

I knew this board had the YLOD problem when I did this the first time and found out it also had a bad power supply that caused a 2nd YLOD after it got too hot. I had a spare PS and put that in the 2nd go around with the YLOD repair.

The bluray drive is the only part that I had that was iffy. When I fixed the YLOD the first time (without flux) the blueray drive seemed to just be stuck where it wouldn't take a disc. During the 2nd YLOD repair, I opened up the bluray drive and set the track correctly.

I fired this thing up and it worked perfectly. I reset the system time and date and got to the main PS3 screen and logged in my user. I then tried putting in a PS2 disc to see if the bluray worked.
(Backwards compatible 80GB unit) The system took the disc in and then the PS3 froze up completely. I powered the system down and when I powered it back up I once again have the YLOD.

I don't see how this is even remotely possbile that the solder developed cracks again. I don't feel that this is due to a heat issue this time but that's all I've been fixing so far so I'm a bit lost with where to go with this now. I had been feeling the power supply the whole 5 min I had this running and it wasn't hot at all. I tried holding down the power button and can't get a settings menu or anything. I've also tried unplugging the power to the bluray drive and that didn't help either.. still YLOD.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. To start with I just want to get this back up and running again. Secondly, I'd like to try and diagnose what's happening with the bluray player if possible as this is a fairly expensive piece to have to replace compeltely.

Thanks everyone.

 

Nobody eh? Anyone still reading this? Gilksy you still around?

 

try heating it up again, make sure not to move ti when it cools down

 

Hi guys, first post here.
I explain my problem:
Last thursday I've powered up my ps3 with PS button on controller and got black screen, led was green and the controller was connected but after a few second the led 1 begun flashing like it was in charge but without usb cable!! nothing happened and I must shutdown with the power button pressed for 10 second.
After a lot of tries I come to the recovery menu by connecting an old screen with scart connector. I tried the 3 first options, but always black screen, then I tried the update option, downloaded firmware 3.15 on usb stick, pressed start+select and it copy the firmware to harddisk, then restarted and the update begun....but when reached the 99% it freeze!! I'we waited for an hour but nothing happened and then i pressed the power button for 10 sec for shutdown. when I powered it up again it restarted the update and freeze at 99%.
Yesterday I've called the Sony assistance and the guy says me that probably was a overheat problem (but I haven't a yellow led!!, only green) so I've maked the ylod repair but nothing changed.
Then I said "ok my saves are lost" and I putted the original 40gb harddisk on, powered up, it comes the message that I must reinstall the system, I do it but appeared the 8002f281 error.
Is there anyone that has any idea to solve my problem? (please gilksy)

 

When you put your 40GB back in, did you update through the internet or off the memory stick again?

I would try the updates again and see if you get the same error code with the 40GB drive in. If it dies at 99% again, then I would think something is wrong other than the HDD. If it completes and works fine, then your HDD would be worth checking for bad sectors etc on a PC. If it gives the error code again, then maybe something else is wrong

Need to pinpoint before you can start checking / changing components

 

still here


just shit hot busy at the mo lol


emails have gone through the roof!
and i'm prioritizing donaters sorry

 

I am very proficient to most of this. I am using a system that has had the YLoD and everything is still good after the reflow. So my question is a little different.

My friend had his playstation dropped and of course there was some significant damage. This particular unit had the YLoD because during the drop a component was snapped away from the power supply's board. I was able to make the repair, but now when I power it on I get this message,

"Cannot Start
The Correct Hard Drive was not found"

Do you think that maybe the drop also damaged the hard drive? I can't test the hard drive in a PC right now, and I want to make sure that is the problem before I tell him to invest in a new hard drive. Also I cant boot into the recovery menu. I get that message everytime I power on the unit.

 

I also agree that there is no way that the solder is cracking. it is definitely something on the board or connected to it that is causing the problem. a possible attempt to bake it in the oven might work. I fixed a friends ps3 bout 3 months ago and it is still going strong. I also fixed mine with this method. We are both avid gamers playing at least 2 hours per night. Probably a last resort because I cant imagine baking the whole board would be "good" for it. BTW if you decide to give it a go don't worry about the plastic parts on the board they did not melt.I stuck mine in for 7 min at 580F (I think my oven could do a max of 600). i propped it up in six corners so it sat exactly level. I then turn off the oven and just slightly opened the door to allow it to very gradually cool. maybe give it a try. good luck.