Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?

Yes. That is what I have been using. its got two settings... 572F/300C and 950F/510C

 

There seems to be a few root causes for the YLOD. One of my duties at work includes building profiles for an AIR-VAC BGA rework machine. We rework many circuit cards for the US military and I can offer a little as to what it takes to reflow. First off I'd like to say shame on any company that bows down to environmentalist and decides to use lead free solder. The US government will never approve PB-free solder for mission critical components because of it being less reliable and more prone to cracking. Pb-free solder creates weak electrical joints and weaker physical connections. Over time it cracks and the hot-air gun trick is simply repairing the crack. It has a higher melting point than Pb solder, typically 217 degree C (422 degree C) where typical melting points for Pb solder is 183 degree C(361 degree F).

The temperature of the solder must gradually reach the melting point (less than 1 degree C per second) and must gradually cool (<1 degree per second) for a quality joint. Once solder reaches melting point, it must stay there between 45 and 75 seconds for the solder to create a good joint.

Flux very important to use and is nothing more than a reducing agent that removes oxidation and basically cleans the metal before the solder melts, allowing for better flow creating a stronger joint, both electrically and mechanically. Boards are preheated to minimize warping and delamination.

One must also take care to not popcorn components. Moisture eventually seeps into every electrical component, including the boards. If you rapidly heat these components, the water will vaporize and forcefully escape, causing very small cracks to components. Popcorn pops because you heat up water trapped inside a kernel.

The EU and RoHS is a BS law causing decreased reliability in electronics. The PS2 never had these problems, granted that it uses much less power. It was built using traditional lead based solder.

 

happy ny guys

So I attempted this...without a heat gun ( i know...) and it worked for 5 minutes until the ylod came back. Something I noticed was that when i turned the thing on, the fans are super quiet - is this normal? Also the BR drive made a weird noise when turning on - the previous user removed a stuck game but i dont know how

going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?

 

going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?[/quote]

Yes def sounds promising,use flux and new paste(super thin layer)

I am on my third reflow of my bga's the 1st lasting a week, the second a couple of weeks, and the third has lasted 3 months and counting/
I have wired a 12v fan pointing towards my ps3 powersupply, as last time I cracked my ps3 open this was red hot and I believe this caused the original fault. The capacitors have limited life (5000hrs)and I reckon overheated my bga's

 

Yes def sounds promising,use flux and new paste(super thin layer)

I am on my third reflow of my bga's the 1st lasting a week, the second a couple of weeks, and the third has lasted 3 months and counting/
I have wired a 12v fan pointing towards my ps3 powersupply, as last time I cracked my ps3 open this was red hot and I believe this caused the original fault. The capacitors have limited life (5000hrs)and I reckon overheated my bga's[/quote]

I see..I do have flux and stuff just waiting on getting a heatgun. today i used a hair dryer and AS5. cleaned out alot of dust from the console too.

 

I see..I do have flux and stuff just waiting on getting a heatgun. today i used a hair dryer and AS5. cleaned out alot of dust from the console too.[/quote]

you are me 4 months back lol hairdryer is waste of time, good luck

 

That's why it's heaps quieter .. the dust makes them loud, plus they speed up quicker coz the unit is heating up faster coz it's full of dust

 

so i attempted this again with a heatgun and it's running now - another problem though, the drive doesnt seem to accept any discs? tried to eject, but nothing happens. Previous owner stated they manually removed a disc from the drive. Any ideas?

 

Just attempted to re-align the drive using

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mazLc...eature=related

I opened up the drive and moved the white cog until the two grey flaps at the front were down then closed it up..

I put a CD in and it accepted it, but i cant eject it..

and it took the disk in, problem is now it doesnt eject?

tried to follow this as well but it's not very good:

http://www.wikihow.com/Realign-Your-...Load-and-Eject

Ribbon cable is connected to the drive, power connected to the board from the drive. All the ribbons on the back of of the drive double checked and re-seated.

This is what I did to try and attempt to re-align it after the YLOD fix. As it wouldn't take in any discs.

1) I opened the drive up and the drive seemed to be engaged as if there was a disc in it (the previous owner did say they opened it up to remove a game after YLOD) - the flaps at the front were up to stop it from taking in a disc.

2) I reset the drive arms on either side and the little mechanism on the front that accepts discs to the positions where they would be if there was no disc inside the PS3.
The flaps at the front as a result of this were lying flat (so discs could enter the drive)

3) Re-assembled the whole thing.

4) Attempted to put any old cd in. When putting the CD in i noticed that no blue light began blinking and also I had to force the CD half way in before the drive accepted it.

5) The drive accepted the CD and started spinning - still no blue light and nothing in XMB

6) When attempting to eject I just get three beeps and the disc does not come out. It keeps spinning.

I've watched loads of videos on youtube about this and making sure all the bits and pieces are in the right places/mechanisms working as they should and I'm am now truely stumped!

 

people on her need to think before they experiment.
The board is being heated over the cpu and gpu.
meanwhile,the heat is spreading throughout the board.
Some of the chips on the board cand only take around 100 degrees before they fail.
Repairing with a heatgun may fix temporary,but will only damage the components.
If you are reflowing,you need to eliminate the other components from deteriorating
The fixes you are trying are only tempory

 

I used the heatgun 3 times and nothing helps I have the fat 40gb ps3 that I bought in 2007 and all it does is shows blue led, then starts blinking red. I did the fan test and that went fine... I could eject the game and everything.
This happened in the middle of the game, I was playing cod and it just turned off. I tried to turn it back on it and it did for about 30 seconds (got to the log in screen) and they it turned off again.. since then I can't even get it to show anything on TV.
Like I said, I heated both chips and the smaller chips as well and nothing..

 

My ps3 yloded bout 2months ago, since ive got the ylod problem i still manage to power on the console though after SEVERAL minutes of SEVERAL on/off attempts, then when i put in "God of War3", 5mins into the game the fan gets so loud the ps3 turns itself off (happens with most of the games i have too), but weirdly enough when the ps3 manages to power on it stays on as long as im only playing a movie from dvd/bluray/usb or music till i manually turn it off, which to me is not really processor demanding.
Following gilksy's guide/videos i tried to fix the ylod myself, i took the console apart, cleaned off all the dust inside the casing and the ps3 FAN (not that much dust in there though), then for the cpu/gpu i was only able to get a "ST200 thermal compound" as opposed to what was actually recommended, after the whole process i put the console back together again, tried to power it on & still got a YLOD!, after i do the usual several on/off attempts again the ps3 manages to power on, though this time around when i put in the "God of War3 game" no fan noise again but console still shuts itself off after about 5mins into the game.
Pls how do i get this problem fixed?? is there a permanent solution to the YLOD??? i heard after ylod's been fixed successfully it still gonna happen again after a while.
Selling it off right now is not an option cos i still have to get it to work even if anyone's gonna buy it, then getting a new console right now is not in my budget for now and obviously selling this one i currently have after i fix the ylod wont get me the same amount to purchase a new one unless i add more, which im so not ready for right now.
So i need a way to get this fixed.
Thnx.

 

hello colin,
My ps3 yloded bout 2months ago, since ive got the ylod problem i still manage to power on the console though after SEVERAL minutes of SEVERAL on/off attempts, then when i put in "God of War3", 5mins into the game the fan gets so loud the ps3 turns itself off (happens with most of the games i have too), but weirdly enough when the ps3 manages to power on it stays on as long as im only playing a movie from dvd/bluray/usb or music till i manually turn it off, which to me is not really processor demanding.
Following your guide/videos i tried to fix the ylod myself, i took the console apart, cleaned off all the dust inside the casing and the ps3 FAN (not that much dust in there though), then for the cpu/gpu i was only able to get a "ST200 thermal compound" as opposed to what was actually recommended, after the whole process i put the console back together again, tried to power it on & still got a YLOD!, after i do the usual several on/off attempts again the ps3 manages to power on, though this time around when i put in the "God of War3 game" no fan noise again but console still shuts itself off after about 5mins into the game.
Pls how do i get this problem fixed?? is there a permanent solution to the YLOD??? i heard after ylod's been fixed successfully it still gonna happen again after a while.
Selling it off right now is not an option cos i still have to get it to work even if anyone's gonna buy it, then getting a new console right now is not in my budget for now and obviously selling this one i currently have after i fix the ylod wont get me the same amount to purchase a new one unless i add more, which im so not ready for right now.
So i need a way to get this fixed.
Thnx.

 

so,
im new to this.
i have been reading this for a some time and not sure if it dead yet.
i have been fixing systems sense the ps2 was hot. i have been trying on this YLOD fix as well. i use a heat gun flux and arctic 5. i found that dynx and other compounds run at higher temperatures. it seams like one ps3 will work longer then a another. some i have done with out flux and have been kicking around 2mo, most not. some with flux are still working (time frame under 2mo) and some i have to re fix.
i think temperature is a big factory.
has anyone tried a laser temperature gun on the back of a good working nonYLOD ps3??? and one that has been fixed from the YLOD. say that has been running for 15- 20min.?
i am going to try to find one cheep somewhere. ebay has them for $16.00 and up but shipping is like 20 days to the US. $30 to $40 for US seller.

 

Try flux underneath cpu and gpu.
I used the flux paste and put it into a tube.
I heated the tube enough to get the paste into liquid form
I then applied the flux into the sides of the gpu and cpu on both sides of the board to make sure I put it where it is needed
I heted the gpu up on both sides for around 40 seconds each.
I only did the cpu for around 30 seconds.
Sucess with out any problems

 

how hot was your gun set to? the low on mine is 550F.

 

crazy stuff

 

It was on the low setting
I bought the earlex heatgun from B&Q
I got the flux and put it in a syringe
like I said I heated it up so it went to liquid in the syringe and applied it on both sides of the gpu and cpu.
I then heated up bothe gpu and cpu.
DOOOOOOO NOT HEAT UP THE CHIPS!!!!
All you have to do is heat up both what I said and it works.
Also when you heat the gpu and cpu,just heat uparound the centre of them,because there are chips underneath the rsx cell on all 4 sides

 

I am gonna do a mod for the fan as well so I will keep you informed