Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?

Good day people,
I'm a new memember, because my ps3 80g MGS4 bundle ylod on me on dec 13, 2010. i got it from amazon, new factory seal on March 9,2009. Because of this I learned alot of whats going on and totally suprise the hush hush of this matter for i never knew about ylod until then. Now, i'm not a hardcore gamer, never really played/enjoyed my ps3 due to family duties and i always keep my ps3 as clean as possible in open space. I figure i should never overheat. but on that morning, when my wife turn on the ps3 by pressing the eject button, prince of persia came out, and she put in a dvd for the baby, it went ylod.
now, i tryed the heat gun and stuff six times and all have fail. i took the dvd out by dissambling the drive, which was quite easy, and reset it. it actually beeps like it should when there is no disc in it. but if i try to put a disc in, it wants to boot up, but ylod still. OH, the fan does spin before it shuts off.
I never had the money to send it back or to get a slim. I call Sony just to report the problem and hopefully, it goes into their statistics of fail ps3.
I just wanted to share my story, for now i have a new hobby, trying to figure out how to fix my ps3. There is more to this story, all the details, and i have plenty of photos.
If anyone has a system like my, or know someone, i would like to know if theirs still running.
Thanks for listening.
Jah Blessings.

 

330 degrees is the heat setting

 

i got some kester flux of ebay it was like 8bucks. its brown and thick.so far i have fixed 3 ps3s and 4 360s. going on 2.5 weeks. im down to try anything. where did you that flux?

 

do you think linking the red and gray wire will work to keep the fan on high?

 

Hey sorry to be a bother, but i really interesting in know if you had worked on a ps3 system that was of the metal gear bundle. its model is ceche01mg 80gb. is like in need to do an impure resurrection ninjutsu on it, it just dont want to come back.

 

Hey, just curious, was your model also 4usb, card reader?

 

Hey, My board looks like that with what looks like flux coming from the board. my system is a 80gb 4usb cardreader,mgs4 bundle. that transistor in mine looks nomal, with numbers visible on it. however, i notice in my those solder joins from the pins are not separated. could this be causing my ylod. i have done 7 reflow, and nothing is happening. same behavior as the first crash which was press on botton, system do the green yellow red beep flashing. the fan do start spinning.

 

Hi Guys,

Has anyone located the Temperature Sensor on the PS3 slim or FAT logic boards.
I suspect that I have a faulty sensor, that gives YLOD symptoms.

 

Jesus just read 1266 posts on here and ever post on ps forum.

Where i am at the moment

Names of rebels with a cause
ricodadon
gbc (the guy from cyprus)
onehanded
sgebbie

these guys seemed to be the most progressive when it comes down to actually providing long term fixes for fats

ricodadons was lasting for around 5-7 months last time he posted
gbc around 2
onehanded around 2 odd i think
and sgebbie around 2 also

from what i can deduce, ricodadons and gbs havent been back because theirs havent ylod'd again.

sgebbie after sucessfully fixing it for a long period fell asleep for a night and couldnt revive it to its former glory (poor guy) and one handed is still active and i am awaiting his fan mod that he said he will post. However his seemed to be running fine until leaving it on overnight. I believe the key to this was that whenever he used it he unclipped the main housing and placed a fan directly on the psu and hdd.

With ricodadons, he refluxed the whole board including the psu (I still havent got round to understanding how he did the psu yet) then after that he erected the ps3 vertical as he said correctly "heat rises" and placed a large fan next to it to cool

gbc used a syringe to apply the flux directly under the cpu so he said that if the system ever overheated and threatened ylod again the flux would take over and allow it to cool down (thinking about it now it seems conflicting with ricodadons idea of vertical as if you overheat the flux it will eventually drip down MB..... there goes that idea.

and the only active freedom fighter onehanded

he has stated that the penny under the psu and other areas of ps3 does the trick, that said i am still waiting to see if he has any malfunctions with his latest frankenstiens and on his fan mod.

ive also read that reballing only fixes it for 4-6 months which is alot of money for very little play time.

I am still reviewing best thermal compounds and testing and possible psu housing alternatives.

 

BD Drive - Service Manual (1st Edition)
60GB PS3 - Service Manual (3rd Edition)
60GB, 80GB PS3 - Service Manual (5th Edition)
SEM PS3 - Service Manual (2nd Edition)

 

Arctic 5 is the best and a seperate power supply is my next move.

Mine has been running *****5 Months********* used daily, putting it down to the power supply getting hot as the capacitors have bullged (5 year old ps3) causing excess heat to cpu/gpu.

Wired extra fan onto psu pins and fixed over the psu but not pretty, only gonna rebox the psu if it goes again.

Once you have success at reflow, keep it cool !!!

 

c3401 capcitor 47u 10v ta

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U92WB2OX

 

Cheers again, I creep from the depths of the internet once more.


I am an owner of a launch model 60gb ps3. I recently had the "green/yellow/flashing red light syndrome and I have tried every fix not requiring me to open the case. I am confused..it worked 100% no problem for 4+ years. Recently, it was used for gta4, PlayOn Media Center, and folding@home, PlayOn being to most common thing used. It was on for maybe 24 hrs a week at most. I turned it off, and left it to collect dust over the next month (Ok, there were two gamings of gta4 in the middle of that, but they were short.)

After said month, I then got a used NEC AVR-1000e made in '88. It hums quite audibly. The sub we got for said AVR make the loudest pop when turned off, even when powered through a wall and not the AVR. I moved the ps3 very carefully, turning of the main power before disconnect as always, and set it up in a new location. I plugged the analog audio outs into the AVR, and left the video through HDMI. 5 days go by. It time to dust off the 'ole bugger and and whir it up. "Beep...whirrrrrrrrr......click.beep beep beep." I could have sworn it happened to me before, so I tried some fixes only to discover this was not going to end..I did some research, and discovered chances are i own a $600 paperweight till I cough up 50 for diagnostics + replacement costs.

Any ideas on my case? I even tried the trick to pop out the disk in these situations, but it will not spit it out. I turned my ps3 many different ways while cleaning it on the outside while relocating it. Is there a chance that the drive let go of the disk? If so, will the fact that the internals of the drive are blocked from moving into position cause this error? Or that the motor inside the drive has died, also leading to this error?

Is there yet a consensus of what this means? It seems that it's a hardware fault of a 1000 faces. i am not going to do the reflux trick, mostly because I believe this error stems from all essential component faults, not just the CPU and GPU.

Its my speculation the reflux/heatgun/oven tricks also re-liquify the electrolytic capacitors, transistors, etc, re-grain the more solid-state ones, and shrink the plastic components compressing what they contain. Thus, it succeeds, but leading to an average life of these zombie ps3's to be around 3-6 months. The bad parts are still there, and the stresses that made them so will only push them to fail again. It seems you would have to test every resistor, transistor, diode, contact point, the copper transfer lines whose name escapes me, and much more (obviously staring with the large, visible components, and finishing with testing the micro-components. If the thing is even turning on, you know the CPU is safe unless said tasks are managed by a co-processor (would be smart).

 

Its highly probable the lead free crap solder has cracked on the cpu or gpu.

 

I heard a story today Sony won´t replace broken 60 GB Playstation 3´s anymore because they don´t have any left to trade?

Can anyone over here verify this? Is it true? If it is, then we have to get into fixing them up ourselves, or else there won't ber any backwards compatible machines left in a couple of years. I want to check all resistors, capacitors and other small stuff on the motherboard myself. For a possible replacement of parts. Still no sound or image, green light is on but nothing on screen. Standard tricks won't work, somebody already did a reball to no avail. Still the same problem.

Is there a way to do a manual firmware upgrade on this fully bricked system?

 

This is an old thread I know but incase anyone is still looking for a fix this is it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U70SgRDVcBo&feature=channel
This is part one of a six part video covers everything from start to finish I have personally fixed 3 of my friends ps3's using this method.

 

I sure hope that's not true. I just got a 60Gb model from a buddy. He said If I can fix it, I can have it. Not sure what's wrong with it yet.

 

Hi, Did anyone experience a problem after the YLOD fix, and have the fan automatically go into fan test elevating to full blast? It is so annoying that I have to turn it off but everything else seems fine and doesn't seem to run hot.I have been going through the posts and could not find anything.

Also, I had a customer who had the video artifact problem and keycomp mentioned that a repair shop cut one of the ground pin from the power cable. Any more info on this?

Any help is appreciated.

 

You've basically got 2 ways to get rid of problems like this however, only 1 option can be the winner. The options are:

1. Send your Playstation 3 over to Sony.
2. Fix the yellow light of death error by yourself with a repair guide.

PS3 YLOD Fix By Sony?

This options sound so... Good... Right? Well, let me tell your something... It's not... Want to know why? Because of 2 reasons that matters a lot. The price, and the waiting time.

You see, when you are actually sending your console over to Sony, you will have to pay them $150 if your warranty has been expired. Also, you will have to wait for literally weeks before you can get your Playstation 3 back.

Mostly it's 2-4 weeks that you'll have to wait, but many people had to wait for more than 1 month.



Basically, this is your best option because it's cheap fast and it will be an easy Ps3 YLOD fix if you use a Playstation 3 repair guide. It's highly recommended to use a repair guide... Because... It basically takes out all the guess work. It contains step by step instructions and also highly detailed pictures from the yellow lights of death error.

When you do this, you won't have to pay $150 because you only have to spend a couple of bucks on the repair guide. Also, you won't have to wait for weeks. In fact, it's high likely that the PS3 YLOD fix will be done within 1 day or even within 1 hour.Here is one i used : http://tinyurl.com/lights-fix