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The OFFICIAL best media thread (noobs MUST look in 1st page, 1st post before posting redundant posts!!)

Discussion in 'PS2 - DVD backup discussion' started by LiquidusX, Oct 4, 2005.

  1. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm

    Burning media at slow speeds does NOT ensure better quality, in fact in many cases the quality will be worse, sometimes much worse. With modern burners, most media will burn it's best at its rated speed, although 16x media usually burns best at 12x or sometimes 8x. Verbatim 16x, at least MCC04 anyway, is one exception that usually burns well at slower speeds, but burning almost any 8x media below 4x or 16x media below 8x will result in worse burn quality. It will vary depending on every possible combination of media, burner, and firmware, but if you have a decent, relatively new burner, your best bet is to burn 1-8x rated media at it's rated speed, and 16x media at 12x.




    here's a little snippet for the top best ones click the link for the rest of good to crap media. at the bottom of the page in that link there's a very good list of what brand uses what media id/code.

    games with an iso/toc size 4.36gb-4.38gb MAY need rebuilding




    ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW

    Can media ever change class? Sure. But it rarely happens. LD01 moved to the top 3RD class spot (got better) and RITEK media moved to the last 2ND class spot (got worse). CMC DVD+R moved up to 3RD class, and SONY0xD moved to 1ST class. But those are the only four major moves to date. It is not a quick move either, these things take much time and many tests.

    What do the % numbers mean? This list is constructed from many tests on many burners from a handful of experienced people that use a lot of media. These numbers reflect the number of discs in a spindle that will give good results. For example, out of a 100 spindle of media, 1st class discs may kick out a few bad discs (0% to 5% of the media may have playback imperfections or be outright bad burns). The 2nd class media may have a dozen or so bad discs. The 3rd class discs could give you a half-spindle of duds. And the 4th class stuff can be pure trash. These are mean averages too, simple statistics math, meaning best tests and worst tests are discarded, and the middle range of tests is the basis for these numbers. You may sometimes find the rare instance where a CMC spindle will be perfect and a Taiyo Yuden spindle will be completely flawed, but those times are the exception rather than the rule (and are not part of a mean average).

    Testing procedures: Burns are subject to playability/reflectivity tests (usage tests), as well as software verification. Test equipment is under controlled hardware/software environments to eliminate user variables. Burns are at least 4GB or more to test the entire length of the media.

    Exceptions to the "Taiwan" rule: Not too long ago, Mitsubishi and TDK moved their operations to Taiwan. In fact, some of it apparently is being made in CMC Magnetics plants. However, because MCC and TDK are still using the same high quality methods and materials (this has been confirmed by a Verbatim spokesman), this geographic relocation has not affected the quality of their products.

    Why is a specific media ID (like MCC02RG20) not shown? When a certain base media ID shares the same quality, not every single code will be listed. For example, the "RITEK" classification include RITEKG03, RITEKG04, RITEKG05, RITEKW, etc. Same for "MCC". It includes MCC01RG20, MCC02RG20, MCC003, etc. Simplicity. An "x" has often been used in place of numbers, saving space by writing merely "TYG0x" instead of creating a long list of TYG01, TYG02, TYG03, etc.


    Fakes

    Luckily, it does not happen often, but it does happen often enough to be a major annoyance to media buyers everywhere. Most fake media comes from Hong Kong, as a general rule. Fake media tends to float around Europe and Asia more than it does the USA. Fake media is normally sold in flea markets, on eBay and online. Major brand name media sold in stores is probably never going to be fake.

    TYG02 = This was faked by INFOSMART (Hong Kong) in 2004-2005. Some OPTODISC media was also reported to carry this code. Mitsui is also faking them in their USA and Europe plants. The fakes are rumored to be for "improved 8x media detection" but low quality media is low quality, regardless of the media ID.
    MCC02RG20, MCC003 = This was faked starting in mid 2005, again by InfoSmart of Hong Kong.
    TTG02, TTH01, TTH02 = These are apparently "legal" fakes made by Mitsui, with permission by TDK to use the code. However the media is quite poor, not true TDK media. Another 2005 fake.
    MXLRG01 = This was faked by INFOSMART (Hong Kong) in 2002-2003.
    SONY = This was faked in 2003. Unknown HK manufacturer. "SONY" is not a valid media ID.
    Pioneer brand = Pioneer's PVC quit manufacturing blanks in 2003 (PVC media codes). LeadData and Ritek tried to sell their PIODATA and PIO coded blanks under the "Pioneer" brand name, but that was fake.
    TDKG02 = This was faked by PRINCO in 2001-2002. They wanted to "improve 2x writing" on the 1x write strategy media, as well as insure drives would see the media (not all firmware at the time had PRINCO as a valid media code).
    RITEKG03,RITEKG04 = This was supposedly faked in 2004. However, it is the opinion of this author that it was just a lame cover story by RITEK for providing subpar quality media, as even the "legit" media performed poorly at the time.


    Branding Guide

    Although this will change on a regular basis, the following brands are known to use the following media makers for their outsourced discs. Be careful for CMC and PRINCO discs, as those are becoming more common in those "special sales" seen almost every week since early 2004. Some companies prefer dollars over quality, so be careful. Also be especially careful of "house brands" or no-names. Stores like Fry's and CompUSA have horrible return policies too, so if you end up with an unfavorable media ID, do not burn a test, just take it back for a refund and take your business elsewhere. Because of recent trends, the BOLDFACE represents known media at the time of this publish. Others are either past media codes, or codes available to the manufacturer. The (-R) and (+R) has also been added if only one is using that code.

    Accu = LEADDATA
    Americal = RITEKG01, PRINCO, LEADDATA
    Apple = MXL, MCC(-R)
    Arita = RITEKG03, RICOHJPN
    BenQ = DAXON, FUJIFILM
    Bulkpaq = Fakes TY/MCC, PRINCO, ISO001(+R)
    CompUSA = PRINCO(-R), AML, OPTODISC, LD
    Datawrite = PRINCO, PRODISC, AN31, RITEKG03
    DupEZ = PIODATA, LEADDATA
    ESA = CMC
    Esbuy = RITEK, LEADDATA, other budget IDs
    Fuji = TY(-R), MKM(-RW), MCC, RICOHJPN(+R), PRODISC(-R), FUJIFILM, RITEK
    GQ = PIODATA, PRINCO, RITEKG03, RITEKG02, LEADDATA, LD
    HP = CMC, RICOHJPN, MCC
    Imation = MCC02, RITEKG03, CMC
    Intenso = MCC01
    KHypermedia = CMC, TTG01
    Kodak = Various budget IDs
    LiquidVideo = OPTODISC
    Matrix = MATRIX, LONGTEN, YIJHAN, MUST
    Maxell = MXL, RITEK(-R/Taiwan), RICOHJPN, TYG01
    Memorex = MCC003, RITEKG05, RITEKR03, CMCMAG, RICOHJPN,
    Memorex (more) = PRODISCS0x, INFODISC, MBI, MCC01
    Meritline = Various budget IDs
    Mirror = AN31, ONIDTECH, PRINCO
    Optodisc = OPTODISC
    Philips = CMC
    Pioneer = PVC
    Princo = PRINCO, Fake TDK
    Prodisc = PRODISCS0x, PRODISCF0x, MCC01, MCC02
    Ridata, Ritek = RITEKG0x, RITEKM0x, RITEKR0x, RITEKW, RICOHJPN
    Samsung = TYG01, BEALL, RITEK
    Sonic, Shop4tech = LONGTEN, MATRIX, MUST, YIJHAN, various budget IDs
    Sony = SONYD0x, YUDEN, RICOHJPN, MCC
    Supermedia, Linkyo = Various budget IDs
    TDK = TY, YUDEN, TTG0x, TTH0x, RITEK, RICOH, MXL, CMC(+R), MCC, TDK
    Teon = MCC003(+R), CMC(-R)
    Verbatim = MCC02, MCC, MKM(DL), CMC, YUDEN,
    RICOHJPN, RITEKG03

    The PS2 laser inside the system, is fragile and sensitive. If you insist on using bad quality media, you're gonna wear the thing out much quicker (something which I have learn the hard way after previously using all the bad stuff, but I now use Verbatim!) which I'm sure you don't wanna do to your nice little friend no?




    my personal preference after trying all those above is taiyo yuden (YUDENT, TYG0x = Taiyo Yuden (Japan) = (+R)(-R))it's cheaper and burns with less PIF than verbatim and all those others for that matter. next is TDK, TTG0x, TTH0x = TDK Corp (Taiwan/Japan) = (-R). then MXLRG0x = Maxell (Japan) = (-R).

    while taiyo yuden only has one, taiyo yuden. they make their own ownage media, even for others like verbatim. that's why i recommend them over anything else guaranteed product cept for fakes but that's your fault for buying from shady sites. to ensure getting realy taiyo yuden get them from rima.com and supermediastore.com they got the real deal and is where i get them. oh yeah 8x made in japan fujifilm from bestbuy is also yuden.

    verbatim has 7 too many manufacturers to still consider it in that 1st class.


    MCC02
    MCC
    MKM(DL)
    CMC
    YUDEN
    RICOHJPN
    RITEKG03

    too variable. worst off is they still use mcc media ID.




    best burns for PS2 games are ones with dvd+r booktype (AKA bitsetting) capabilities for setting dvd+r to dvd-rom for much better compatibility than dvd-r. only one burner brand is capable of booktyping dvd-r to dvd-rom (AFAIK) is NU-Tech such as my NU DDU-082.
    here's a complete list of dvd+r booktyping burners:

    BenQ
    LiteOn
    Plextor
    Ricoh
    LG
    NEC
    NU-tech (also only one capable of dvd-r bitsetting)




    those instructions saying to burn at lowest speed are outdated. today's burners burn much better at 8-12x than the burners of 5 years ago at 2x.

    i burn games at 12x with PIF levels staying below 60 with spikes at 2 only with 0 problems.

    ******thoughts*****Taiyo Yuden DVD+R and DVD-R are best of all the medias out there.

    media id/codes:

    DVD-R
    TYG01 = burn at 4x since they're 4x max, can be done at 8x on most burners but i don't recommend it.
    TYG02 = burn at 8x (these are cheapest and most available in the US)
    TYG03 = burn at 8x or 12x if burner can do it and if you have a good burner. they are 16x and will burn great at 16x so they're up to you just don't burn them below 8x, they hate it

    DVD+R
    YUDEN00T02 = burn at 8x can be done at 8x on most burners but i don't recommend it unless you have the best burner there is. (they are very available but double price over TYG02 in the US)
    YUDEN00T03 = burn at 8x or 12x if burner can do it and if you have a good burner. they are 16x and will burn great at 16x so they're up to you just don't burn them below 8x, they hate it (these don't exist in the US yet but are widely available in europe)






    the second best are

    Verbatim with ring code PAPAXXXXX made by CMC using MCC id code and dyes DVD+R and DVD-R

    DVD-R
    MCC01RG20 = burn at 4x since it's max is 4x can be done at 8x on most burners but i don't recommend it unless you have the best burner there is
    MCC02RG20 = burn at 8x since it's max is 8x can be done at 12x on most burners but i don't recommend it unless you have the best burner there is
    MCC03RG20 = burn at 8x or 12x if burner can do it and if you have a good burner. they are 16x but those two lower speeds come out better and more guaranteed given their variability.

    DVD+R
    MCC 002 = burn at 4x since it's max is 4x can be done at 8x on most burners but i don't recommend it unless you have the best burner there is
    MCC 003 = burn at 8x since it's max is 8x can be done at 12x on most burners but i don't recommend it unless you have the best burner there is
    MCC 004 = burn at 8x or 12x if burner can do it and if you have a good burner. they are 16x but those two lower speeds come out better and more guaranteed given their variability.


    however verbatims are variable in regards to who made them. for best results and no to less DREs go for Yudens.


    to get REAL GENUINE yudens buy from
    shop4tech.com
    supermediastore.com
    rima.com
    meritline.com


    yudens are only made in JAPAN

    verbatims are made in JAPAN, INDIA, SINGAPORE, TAIWAN


    verbatim and yuden fakes are made everywhere else china is one






    ****FROM DIGITALFAQ.COM****
    The thing that must be realized is that most media is produced by a relative small number of factories, located in several different places. These factories are mostly present in Taiwan, Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong, China, India, some European locations. There are more, but those are the largest ones. The best media generally comes from Japan and Singapore. The worst typically comes from Taiwan or China (in stores) and Hong Kong (online).

    This being said, understand that the media brand means nothing. Apple is a great brand, but they do not make their own discs, instead outsourcing to MXL (Hitachi/Maxell) or MCC (Mitsubishi Chemicals). Verbatim became infamous in 2002 by switching from high-quality MCC ID media to the inferior CMC ID media, although they quickly returned to using MCC. Companies like Memorex, Fuji and Imation all outsource to media vendors. When buying media online always be aware of fake media too (see the fakes information farther down the page).

    It is the media ID that is important, as it reveals the disc manufacturer. Unfortunately, this is not written on packaging or anywhere else. Companies want consumers to be oblivious to this sort of behind-the-scenes information. To learn the media ID code, a blank disc must be put into a computer DVD burner drive and the ID read by a special utility. Some burning software reads the code by default (DVD Decrypter, for example, in ISO write mode). There are also a handful of freeware or trialware tools available:


    For Windows: DVD Identifier (free), DVDInfo (free), DVDInfoPro (trial)
    For Macintosh OS X: DVD Media Inspector (free)
    For Linux: dvd+rw-mediainfo (free)
    ****FROM DIGITALFAQ.COM****



    instructions saying to burn at lowest speed are outdated. today's burners burn much better at 8-12x than the burners of 5 years ago at 2x.

    i burn games at 12x with PIF levels staying below 60 with spikes at 2 only with 0 problems.


    i may be a noob here but in terms of media and burners. i've tested a crapload of media using best burners of the day.




    BEST BURNERS:

    Benq 1620/1640/1650/1655/18xx series
    Liteon 6s series (ex 165H6s), 18aX1, and 20aX1 series
    Pioneer 110/111/112 series
    LG h10/h12/h22/h42 series

    the rest aren't worth it and/or don't do dvd+r bitsetting to DVDROM.

    a good free burn program to use is imgburn 2.2.0.0 i use this for everything works great


    remember to get guaranteed yudens get them from the 4 online stores above


    hope ya'll find this thread useful

    ****thoughts****




    thread is intended especially for the millions of daily best media threads. for the NOOBS!!!!
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2007
  2. Glitched

    Glitched Guest

    Nice site it should be on every dvd fourm on this site
     
  3. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    this should be a sticky
     
  4. steimy

    steimy Active member

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    it's nice and all but even a sticky would not
    stop people from asking the question 3 times a day
    I have seen it too many time before.
     
  5. p4_tt

    p4_tt Active member

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    Pretty good info, thanks :) steimy is right thou even if this was stickied some people wont bother to read all the info in the link and post anyway :( Still pm a mod and ask worth a try :)
     
  6. boobooman

    boobooman Regular member

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    fantastic great find got to be a sticky now i understand how you av fake disk

    i thought ritek g05 were first class
     
  7. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    mods should sticky this and start to delete those kinds of threads
     
  8. Glitched

    Glitched Guest

    your right there like 50 ehats the best media threads,lol even i created 1
     
  9. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    up for the noobs
     
  10. steimy

    steimy Active member

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    I understand, but unless you post to this every day it
    will just fall down a few pages and never be seen again.
    Like all the other best media threads.
    And people never read the sticky's
    If they did then some of their questions might actually
    get answered by their own research instead of by asking
    repetetive questions.
    Yet i still answer them i get mad because no one ever uses
    that nice search feature.
     
  11. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    up for noobs


    there should be a mod that closes those threads and refers them to a sticky
     
  12. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    please mods
     
  13. alkohol

    alkohol Regular member

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    This is exactly why and what I've been saying for the last 5 months that high quality media are genuine Taiyo Yuden (authentic Yuden can be found on the 8X DVD+R Fuji & Sony "Made In Japan"), Verbatim, and Maxell (mij by Hitachi Corp.)

    If a noob doesn't want to listen to your (our) recommendation list of media, then so be it. Let them go buy those cheap @ss Memosux, Dynex, Hyundai, Khypermedia, Imation or any unknown name brands and let them deal with "coasters" period.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2005
  14. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    it's intended to end the noob threads regarding media
     
  15. alkohol

    alkohol Regular member

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    Let me help you to bump this up.
     
  16. steimy

    steimy Active member

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    "If a noob doesn't want to listen to your (our) recommendation list of media, then so be it. Let them go buy those cheap @ss Memosux"

    hahahahahaahhhahaha :rolling on floor: hehehehehehehe

    and yet as many posts as there are about them, people still
    go out and buy them. Because they are a few $$$ cheaper i guess.
    But then you have a cheap stack of plastic drink coasters
    and have to go back out and buy the better media anyway.
    That is why i am always a fan of buying small pack sizes
    when you first start out to see what works best. Then after you
    get like 5-10 in a row to work flawless you can go get that
    100 pack you had your eyes on

     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2005
  17. alkohol

    alkohol Regular member

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    I agree.... it's sad but true.


    Attn: All Newbies,

    Before you're thinking about buying Memosux, Dynex, Khypermedia, Hyundai, or any unknown brands. Take a quick look below.

    Memorex is good for spending more and more money from your pocket. So yeah, go get them while Memosux are flooding at the stores now.

    Now, it's time for the MATH:

    100 blank of Memorex
    35 coasters
    65 successfully burned
    2 - 6 months down the road, 35 discs will freeze (picture gets pixelate and distort)
    And now it's time to get more Memosux again.
     
  18. Glitched

    Glitched Guest

    thx for the full explanation on how memorex isnt that good
     
  19. alkohol

    alkohol Regular member

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    Bump this up. Newbies need to know about these media.
     
  20. LiquidusX

    LiquidusX Regular member

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    up for the noobs
     

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