xbox turns on then off right away

Power brick is good, thinking a soder point on the board. What do I need to check? Yes I've tried another power brick. It lights up green for a split second before shutting off.

 

does it give rrod? might be a wire inside the xbox not plugged in right this is what happened to mine. once i connected the disk drives power cable back on right it worked right away./

 

I'm assuming it's not under any warranty? Sounds like it might be something to do with the rf board, I would open it up (if not under any warranty) and check everything obvious is plugged in properly. Are the fans starting up? Did you move it between the last time it worked and when it stopped working?

 

Nope not under warranty. Tried 3 other RF boards. What else to check?

 

Can you hear the fans booting up? Could be a faulty power socket on the 360.

 

doesn't even get that far. green light for a split second and that is it

 

Ever take it apart and do the xclamp fix to it? Could have your screws too tight causing a direct short. Even the penny fix would cause it to flex enough and short. Though you would think if it was a short the psu would trip and throw a red light.

If i were you i'd take it all apart, carefully put it back together and try it again. There's really not much you can do. There could be an smt fuse somewhere on the board and without carefully going over the entire board you would never find the fuse.

I'll look around and research this a bit more and if i find out anything useful i'll be sure to post it here.

 

I am using a rework station. I do not use the xclamp or penny trick.

 

Has anyone found a fix for this yet? I have the exact same problem as what the dude posted in the video. I have the X-clamp fix, the penny fix and a whisper max fan so could you refrain from reposting the same common quick fix things.

I really want to find out what is causing this so I can fix it.

 

I know gameover would of done a reflow, but have you either had it reflowed or used the heat gun method (cheap mans reflow)

 

Whats the re-flow method and heat gun?

 

Does anyone know what could be causing the problem?

 

Simple but have you tried powering with either your xbox buttons on your pad or your eject button? Does it do the same thing?

 

hey gameover9

Not sure if this will help but before i found the heatproof nylon washers i screwed my spring washer directly to the mobo (facepalm i hear you chant) i had one 360 that took offence to that and had the same problem as yours. I had to undo the bolts and sure enough one of the spring washers had grazed the mobo and was causing a short, i sorted it (who said botched) by making a small washer from a heatproof tape and put it back together again.

As far as i know it's still going strong.

 

If you have doen the x-clamp fix on it, make sure that your washers that are directly touching the mobo arent any type of metal, make thme rubber or nylon. If they are metal then the circuit board shorts out, which allows the xbox to run until the signal hit that point (usually about 3 seconds).

 

sounds like a short to me. Are you powering it on inside the metal chassis? Make sure none of those little metal tabs around the connectors are folded under. Take it out of the chassis and try to start it

 

I had nylon washers on the boards on both sides. No metal is touching that wasn't touching before. I also have the penny fix on the underside ram and the plastic heastinks that cam with the wisper max on the ram on the top side. It just happened all of a sudden. After the towel trick was done on it after I reapplied the X-Clamp fix (mine would always still red ring after a day or two with it).

As for what it does, just click the video in that the guy posted earlier. That is "exactly" what it does. Nothing is burnt out on the board an all other parts work fine.

 

remove the penny fix. If you have/had a ram related red ring, all that extra pressure will not fix your broken solder, only make it worse. Also, stop doing the towel trick. It is not good to force the gpu to go outside it's operating temperature and it does not fix broken solder (and probably increases flexing/warp). Try a different power supply. Loosen screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn on your heatsinks. If none of that works, reflow with a heatgun to actually fix the broken solder

 

The main thing I want to know is what is where exactly the problem it being caused. I figured a problem this specific could only be caused by a number of things.

Also, I don't have a heat gun so would it damage my 360 is I put it in a stove for a little while?

 

well the penny fix and certainly towel trick can both be causes of problems. I wouldn't be surprised in the least if either were the causes of your problem.
As for the heatgun, they're $20 and when combined with the x-clamp can fix nearly all 360s so they're a good investment. No prep work is necessary other than removing the heatsinks and thoroughly cleaning the chip die (and be sure to avoid the capacitors and plastic).
There's also two methods for doing an oven fix: high temp and low temp. High temperature is more dangerous obviously and requires a lot of prep work to ensure you dont heat anything that is not supposed to be heated. The upside is if you do it properly it reflows better than heatgun and may fix your system. The low temp one is more safe as it doesnt get hot enough to pop any caps or melt plastic but at the same time is much less effective because it wont melt the solder either! The low temp version is mostly used to remove any moisture and flexing in the board which can fix the system but most of the time a heat gunnning is required as well. Here's links for both high and low temp oven fixes respectively:
http://xbox-experts.com/tutorial/the-ultimate-xbox-360-oven-reflow-tutorial/
http://xbox-experts.com/tutorial/oven-bake/