The title is self explanitory. I have a 40GB and I have it in a nice open area with not a lot of dust, and I don't play it for 8 hours a day like some people. Within the first 2 hours of Final Fantasy XIII, the system just shut down and I got the YLOD. I took apart the PS3 and fixed it using the hair gun trick. Now I want to know if I should try playing FF13 again because I really like it, or should I just forget about it because chances are it will break the ps3 again, whereas with other games it the hair gun fix might last longer? I'm just looking for some opinions
WEll isnt it mostly the launch consoles that ylod from getting too hot. Well if you have fixed it, how much dust was in the heatsink and fan? If there were large bits then as long as you used decent thermal compound it should be ok. And if you are worried, only play for a hour at a time and let the system cool before carrying on. I recently bought a faulty launch console and fixed it, though not done a full test on it yet, used the arctic silver compound so hoping I dont have to worry about overheating too much. though the vent heats up pretty quickly...
there was actually no dust at all in it, it was very clean, that's why I think the rumors about this game breaking consoles are true, i'm scared to try it again
Ok if the the heat gun reflow worked then FF13 did not break your ps3. You might want to look into a better thermal paste and having a look at the tutorial about overclocking your fan. The YLoD will return eventually, but you can at least extend how long it lives.
Thank You, I havent heard about the fan overclocking, I will look into that, the next time it YLOD I will try adding some flux as well. Just to update everyone, so far I still havent played FFXIII again, but I've been playing some other games and the ps3 is still working. Maybe the game is just very hard on the system and pushes it to the max because of the great graphics in the game, but I don't think I'll be trying it again anytime soon.
OK, you think you have fixed the problem (the YLOD)...but that was just a symptom. The problem (cause) is excessive heat. So, you have fixed the YLOD, but you have not fixed the cause of the YLOD...and if you keep using it like this (even without FFXIII), you will burn it out again, and next time, the YLOD fix won't be as easy, and will have a lower chance of success. So, NOW is the time to fix the problem. Open the system back up. Remove the RSX cover, clean the glue from the 4 corners (and any that might stick to the cover). Then use arctic silver 5 on the center square, and arctic adhesive on the outer squares, put it together, and put something with a bit of weight on it to make sure that it dries correctly. Wait 24 hours for a full cure. Then, put thin but even layers of arctic silver 5 on the RSX and the cell, and reinstall the mainboard. Then, just do the "fan OC" that is listed here: http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-153/how_to_overclock_your_fan-844137/
Isn't the problem unleaded soldering tin? As far as I understood so far the YLOD appears because this unleaded soldering tin isn't as good as the old leaded soldering tin and with the change of temperature coming up when using the PS3 and switching it off microfractures appear? When heating it up with the heat gun you close most of these microfractures (but not all) and the console works again. In another forum I read posts from a guy who fixed his YLODed console 5 or 6 times and after that all later fixes only lasted for a day.
Well I followed someone elses suggestion in the main ylod thread, and added some rubber pads under the psu so that it lifts it up slightly. So far teh air coming out of the side vent is a bit cooler, so guessing this means the ps3 is also running cooler, as the psu isnt heating up the motherboard since it's no longer in contact with it.
Yes, the solder is partly to blame...if it was lead-based, then it would not crack AS MUCH with heating and cooling...but that really does not matter, as the heatgun fix does not replace this bad solder. So, rather than fixing the solder that breaks when it gets too hot, we simply try to keep the solder from getting so hot that it breaks. The fact is, lead-free solder works for years and years without the slightest issue as long as the temperature changes are not too extreme...but going from room temp to overheating and back repeatedly will damage this kind of solder...and if it has been through a YLOD and a YLOD fix, then the solder is already distressed...so best to tread gently. Oh, and as for that guy that YLODed his console 5-6 times...that it because he did not fix the heating problem; so it just kept YLOD'ing...and now his system is useless because he did it too many times...and it is now too late for a simple fan fix. Also, there is a bit of hidden thermal paste under the RSX cover. When doing the heatgun fix, you break down this compound so it does not work as well...that is why I recommend replacing this compound any time you do a YLOD fix.
thank you for all these excellent suggestions. I will for sure look into them and keep them in mind to try them at a later time. I read about the YLOD but I never came accross this stuff. I did put the artic silver on the parts that the guide said and removed the old white stuff that was there by the way, but not on other parts. I'd maybe try the rubber pads as a last resort type of thing if the YLOD keeps occuring. I did understand that the YLOD happened kind of how Eisherz explained it because I can't see why my PS3 generates more heat than any other one, unless it's defective, because it's in a nice open area, with no dust.
That is just the thing...Sony setup all their fat PS3 consoles to overheat, by setting the fans to only start blowing after it is already overheating. "Defective" would mean that it died within the 1-year warranty...as long as it gets past 1 year, sony does not consider it to be defective. And you are correct...your PS3 does not make any more (or at least not much more) heat than mine...the reason that my console stays within 5C of room temperature is the fan mod.
Actually that is good to know, thanks. I am trying to get a PS3 as cheap as possible off ebay, which means I am going to buy a defective or misconfigured one. I read a lot about repairing different defects (actually found out some people don't even bother reading the instruction manual and put up their console as defective when it is only misconfigured to send out an HDMI signal which can't be displaied by YUV/Euro-Scart) and that actually was quite helpful.
We need to have a "HeatGun Fix" Sticky...with all the little tricks and forgotten steps of the YLOD fix and the follow-up...I keep seeing people skipping steps, often not even aware of the steps they missed.
I agree killerbug! I missed out on a lot of stuff, I guess I could have read more about it, but I would have for sure like to see a sticky like that before going through this whole mess. The things I have to do for next time are: - fan mod - quote "Then use arctic silver 5 on the center square, and arctic adhesive on the outer squares, put it together, and put something with a bit of weight on it to make sure that it dries correctly. Wait 24 hours for a full cure. Then, put thin but even layers of arctic silver 5 on the RSX and the cell, and reinstall the mainboard." (i'm still not sure what you mean by this step, I added artic silver where the previous white thermal paste was, but that's all) - adding no-clean flux - bending clamps (I heard this helps, I'm not sure about how effective it actually is) Killerbug, in your experienced opinion, how much longer will a YLOD fix last with all these small fixes?
I don't see why a YLOD fix has to have a time limit if done correctly...even if done without flux...if it comes back on after the heatgun fix, then the rest is all just to keep it from going back down the path of doom. This is why I keep recommending that you do the fanmod now; it will save you from having to do another heatgun fix. Plus, you don't even need to remove the mainboard from a 40GB unit to do the fan fix. That said, you may want to wait just a little bit...my next digikey order will include the POT I need to test my digital fan modulator...once I know it works, I will post the diagrams. of course, if you just want wide-open top speed operation (LOUD!), then you can do it now.
thanks for all the help killerbug, you really are great contributor to these forums! I read through the fan mod thread and will do it, although I will probably wait until you post the new guide as I'm in no rush.
