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#6176
I know this is fairly common knowledge from the past, but out of curiosity, what have Intel done lately in that regard?



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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#6177
So long Thermaltake. 4.5yrs of faithful service :(
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153023

It just kicked the bucket LOL! What's sad, is it was running a very old system. That system could not have asked more than 125 - 150W.

On another note, fanboyism aside, I'd hate to see AMD go out of business. Intel would price gouge in the worst way! The intel extreme processors would probably double in price...
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 07 Jan 2013 @ 17:39



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
#6178
Of course, AMD going out of business is no good for anyone, and even the most devout fanboys out there should never think otherwise.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6179
Originally posted by sammorris:
I know this is fairly common knowledge from the past, but out of curiosity, what have Intel done lately in that regard?
Oh, I don't know. How about selling under cost (loss leaders) for certain CPUs, like the i5-2500K, the i5-3550, and the i5-3570K. They are all loss leaders, intended to force AMD's high end prices lower, and then make it back by higher prices, on everything above those 3.

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


#6180
Source for this?

I find it surprising that those CPUs are loss leaders given they are expensive, and not even that price-competitive with their rivals from AMD...



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6181
Originally posted by sammorris:
Source for this?

I find it surprising that those CPUs are loss leaders given they are expensive, and not even that price-competitive with their rivals from AMD...

Sam,

Sorry, but I never compromise my sources. That's why I get answers when I ask questions. It's a matter of trust! Still, it's not hard to figure out.

At Newegg, there are 12, i5 processors (one out of stock) that all fall within a $20 price range between $199.99 and $219.99. The next price up is $80 higher. Not only that, but there are 8 of the i5s that sell in very poor numbers, and one unknown. Intel should drop the 8, but won't. Did you realize that only 3 i5s sell in significant numbers. The i5-2400, the i5-3750K. and the i5-2500K. The rest combined equal barely equal the sales of the i5-2400, and it's been around a while. The unknown is the i5-3470s, and I imagine it's a new chip as it's Newegg sales = 0.

Best Regards,
Russ
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 07 Jan 2013 @ 19:21

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


#6182
The latter doesn't surprise me as there are so many redundant options in the lineup. It was bewildering trying to actually buy one of those CPUs. I still find it very difficult to believe they make a loss on the 3400s though, the 3570K does cost more, but not a lot more, and the real money is made from OEMs, not the enthusiast-grade K chips, because those are what go in Dell/HP systems etc. They will be using the standard 3400s I almost guarantee it, and no way would they put loss-leading CPUs in those.

I own an i5 3470 and have done for a few months now, they've been around for a while.
Edit: Saw you mention the i5 3470S, not the 3470 - my mistake.
Still, the release date of those was H2 12, and I'm pretty sure they too were on offer when I bought my CPU.
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 07 Jan 2013 @ 19:23



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6183
I meant to post this PDF the other day. I sent it to a couple of friends that are planning to OC their 1090ts. I got called for dinner and I forgot to send it. Sorry!

http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_F...uning_Guide.pdf

While this is for tuning with AMD OverDrive, I just used some of the same settings in my motherboard's setup. The results are pretty darn good, if I do say so myself!

120,504 MIPS!




MB 12,466MB/s




Cache and Memory performance






Processor Multi Media! 601,104/421,998it/s




This is at 4.03GHz, with great temperatures. That's where I'm going to leave it for now until I get another A/C 120mm 77 cfm, pwm push fan for the radiator.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186078

You can pair two of them to the CPU fan header on the motherboard, using the wiring that comes with the fan, and since they are the same fan, they both run the same speed, controlled by the CPU temperature. I think it will do at least 4.4gHz, maybe more. The definitions of all the new controls in the setup, is worth reading, if you want to OC an AMD.

Have Fun,
Russ
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 18:58

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


#6184
Have received it in your PM Russ :) Sent a reply iirc.
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 5:33



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
#6185
Just spent the morning repairing my older-than-dirt stereo receiver. A Yamaha R-10 130W from about 1975. It was free, has sentimental value, and outputs excellent quality sound. Runs about 300-400W worth of speakers so loud it can crack windows. Signal quality is infinitely more important than power throughput. I have tried many budget and mid-range receivers and the difference is almost nil or sometimes the newer receivers are even a bit worse due to the analog-digital differences. I guess quality sound will always be quality sound :)

Had a broken source selector switch that caused horrible crackling and cutting in and out at random times unless jiggled. Was able to tear apart a similar non-working unit(Yamaha R-700) and cannibalize the identical switch from that. Very luckily, nothing was soldered. Just screw it in and plug in the connector and done. Was one hell of a project getting the front panel apart though. Brass screws and they are glued in place. Had to cut notches with a dremel and use a slotted screwdriver to break the glue.

Glad I could repair this old receiver as it was given by a good friend who passed away a few years ago. Intend to use it until it is no longer useful. Again, very nice quality sound, and able to push high wattage speakers quite well.
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 9:25



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
#6186
Congrats on your Antiquated receiver :p Hey, if it works, heck yah! I definitely in some cases, find audio equipment to be more GREEN than it used to be. In which case, my 14yr old receiver is substantially more powerful. Though I know if I spent more, I'd get a more powerful receiver ;) I intend to one day.



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
#6187
Originally posted by Estuansis:
Just spent the morning repairing my older-than-dirt stereo receiver. A Yamaha R-10 130W from about 1975. It was free, has sentimental value, and outputs excellent quality sound. Runs about 300-400W worth of speakers so loud it can crack windows. Signal quality is infinitely more important than power throughput. I have tried many budget and mid-range receivers and the difference is almost nil or sometimes the newer receivers are even a bit worse due to the analog-digital differences. I guess quality sound will always be quality sound :)

Had a broken source selector switch that caused horrible crackling and cutting in and out at random times unless jiggled. Was able to tear apart a similar non-working unit(Yamaha R-700) and cannibalize the identical switch from that. Very luckily, nothing was soldered. Just screw it in and plug in the connector and done. Was one hell of a project getting the front panel apart though. Brass screws and they are glued in place. Had to cut notches with a dremel and use a slotted screwdriver to break the glue.

Glad I could repair this old receiver as it was given by a good friend who passed away a few years ago. Intend to use it until it is no longer useful. Again, very nice quality sound, and able to push high wattage speakers quite well.
The selector wasn't broken it was dirty a good cleaning with a quality contact cleaner/lubricant would have fixed it most probably and much easier too.

The difference between that amp, which I had as well, and newer ones of today is AB class verses D class. AB class are not efficient but in the past have a much better sound whereas D class are extremely efficient and way less but were lacking good low frequency sound. That has changed today as there are very good class D amplifiers like my Crown XLS's. Your 130w RMS is really probably around 90w RMS at 3db (20-20KHz) as Yammy's tend to have weak amplifiers for their rating, or one could say they lie about their wattage spec. It isn't that you can't get 130watts out it is that the distortion is unbearable at full rating.

I'm definitely a Yammy fan and have had several versions of Yamaha receivers over the years. What I'm doing now is using my Yamaha to control my sound environment but using Crown XLS amps to drive my main speakers (Front/Back) and allowing the Yammy to drive the surrounds which it is more than capable of doing. Because I have quality speakers, very expensive too, my imaging and low frequencies are reproduced very well.

As to quality sound it isn't true that quality today is the same as it was in the 70's, unfortunately the bar has dropped immensely over the years.
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 14:50
#6188
I was looking at getting a Yamaha receiver, but found that you have to pay a lot more money to get a similar spec. Perhaps there's extra quality involved too, but the Pioneer receiver I paid 250 for compares favourably spec-wise to the 500 Yamaha...



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6189
Originally posted by sammorris:
I was looking at getting a Yamaha receiver, but found that you have to pay a lot more money to get a similar spec. Perhaps there's extra quality involved too, but the Pioneer receiver I paid 250 for compares favourably spec-wise to the 500 Yamaha...
Pioneer is OK but Denon and Yamaha are much better for mid level audio gear. In fact even though I love my Yammy's, Denon is better gear from an amplifier prospective but from features Yamaha is better. I would put Pioneer in the third slot and then it is a toss up with Harman/Kardon, Marantz, Sony, and others. I know you love specs but they don't always tell the true story especially in the audio world. You really need to listen to Speakers and Amplifiers to determine what is better and do a side by side comparison unless you have a very good trained ear, which most people don't, even if they think they do.
#6190
Please don't put $ony next to the other names...

$ony can burn in hell...
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 15:05



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
#6191
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Originally posted by sammorris:
I was looking at getting a Yamaha receiver, but found that you have to pay a lot more money to get a similar spec. Perhaps there's extra quality involved too, but the Pioneer receiver I paid 250 for compares favourably spec-wise to the 500 Yamaha...
Pioneer is OK but Denon and Yamaha are much better for mid level audio gear. In fact even though I love my Yammy's, Denon is better gear from an amplifier prospective but from features Yamaha is better. I would put Pioneer in the third slot and then it is a toss up with Harman/Kardon, Marantz, Sony, and others. I know you love specs but they don't always tell the true story especially in the audio world. You really need to listen to Speakers and Amplifiers to determine what is better and do a side by side comparison unless you have a very good trained ear, which most people don't, even if they think they do.
Ah no when I mean specs, I don't mean things like amplifier wattage ratings, I mean feature specifications - number of HDMI ports, the ability to upscale analog inputs to the HDMI output, and so on. In all honesty, pretty much anything you can buy as a receiver would suit me for now in the amplifier capability department.
Amplification is a secondary requirement of the receiver as I'm currently using it with a set of PC speakers that normally would use their own amplifier - luckily the satellites use speaker wire so I can hook them up as normal and use the sub preout as the only input to the original speaker system.
When I move out and get more than a small bedroom and can actually justify a large sound system then some proper speakers may follow, but until then the 100W per channel amp in this receiver is wholly overkill - the 60W per channel the satellites are rated at isn't even remotely approached.
The reason for getting the receiver is the need to consolidate all my various inputs - composite, component, HDMI and so on, and I needed a receiver that could send an input analog signal over composite/component with RCA audio, out over HDMI, and you don't get that feature on Yamahas until the 500 mark, below that it's just passthrough - receiver amplifies the audio, but what goes in analog, goes out analog the other side. The Pioneer offered this functionality at half the price.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6192
Actually if you have good speakers 100w amp is just fine unless you have a large room or venue that you're using it in. And for the money you spent the Pioneer will work just as well as the Yamaha. It is a good idea to spend 4x the amount on speakers then what you spend on your amplifier, as a general rule. The most important area to focus on in your system is your speakers, then the electronics behind it falls in to place. Pioneer is good gear so you did well and saved money too, which is always a smart move!

Stevo :D....
#6193
Yeah my original purchase idea was a high-end earlier model Yamaha they had on clearance, but they turned out not to have it, so that was what I bought.
Currently using a set of Logitech Z-5500s, so brand new, they were worth about 1.1x as much as the receiver (back in 2005!) but since I bought them second hand about 6 years ago, they only cost me 0.6x what the receiver did!



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6194
Joke of the decade!

http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/In...39/product.html

Check the price. LOL!

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


#6195
Rofl, I think someone's made a typo there :) I'm guessing it was meant to be 4.28 or 4.38 judging from the two characters adjacent.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6196
I want to know how many you really bought at that price? Stocking up Russ? LOL
#6197
Originally posted by sammorris:
Rofl, I think someone's made a typo there :) I'm guessing it was meant to be 4.28 or 4.38 judging from the two characters adjacent.

Sam,

Nope, that's the price. I added it to the cart, and went through the whole process, up to the code. Price never changed!

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


#6198
Oh I'm sure it's legitimately added, but whoever posted the price to the database has obviously got it wrong! Nowhere legitimately charges that sort of money for those coolers.
I know we have it hard in the UK, but not that hard! :)
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 18:53



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
#6199
Originally posted by sammorris:
Oh I'm sure it's legitimately added, but whoever posted the price to the database has obviously got it wrong! Nowhere legitimately charges that sort of money for those coolers.
I know we have it hard in the UK, but not that hard! :)

Sam,

I just contacted Overstock.com, And they checked the price. It's not a mistake. That's the price! She even checked the master list.

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


#6200
ok guys here is what i have come up with getting opinions.



memory

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233336


MB

good to OC with? not really gaming anymore to speak of

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821


core

should be able to OC to 4 GHz ?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501

HDD

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a...5ed0735205ef12f

maybe this one or the 64 cache?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136555


thanks for all the help opinions guys..going with Windows7 64 bit OS
This message has been edited since its posting. Latest edit was made on 08 Jan 2013 @ 22:06




Antec 1200 Full-Tower Case/Thermaltake 750-Watt PS/ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Mobo/Western Digital Black WD5003AZEX 500GB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" HDD/NVIDIA GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card/CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 /Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics/CORSAIR Hydro Series H80 (CWCH80) High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler/3-Plextor PX-810SA Sata Drives/Asus IPS 27"PB278Q Monitor 2560 x 1440 resolution,5ms respone time/OS Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit

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