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after cpu upgrade no external monitor at bios level

Discussion in 'PC hardware help' started by kblackk, Sep 26, 2013.

  1. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    I've replaced the Intel Core2 Duo T7300 @ 2.00GHz CPU in my Dell latitude D630 laptop with the Intel Core 2 Duo T7800 2.6 GHz Dual-Core Processor(a compatible upgrade, according to Dell documentation). Every thing seemed have gone just fine until I hooked it up my docking station. The CRT external monitor no longer works at all at the BIOS level. I can watch the boot process on the laptop screen, but the first thing I see on the external monitor is The Windows 7 Welcome Screen. Since I leave the laptop closed, it's critical that I see everything on the external monitor. It works all right in Windows except that I can't get various resolution to work the way they used to using the controls on the monitor (can't stretch the desktop to the edges of of screen). I get the same result whether I plug the CRT into the docking station or directly into the laptop. I don't see any BIOS settings that would be relevant. My BIOS version is A17. There is an update available but from what I've I read, it seems very unlikely to make a difference. Obviously, though, there is something happening at the BIOS level. I'm completely baffled. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on?
     
  2. ddp

    ddp Moderator Staff Member

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    is a windows issue not bios issue. what windows?
     
  3. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    I'm using 64-bit Windows 7 Ultimate, but I don't see how it could be a Windows issue when the problem occurs at the BIOS level, from the very beginning of the POST. before the hard drive has even been accessed. None of the POST, including prompts, is visible because the monitor is receiving no signal. Once windows opens to the Welcome Screen, the monitor finally connects and behaves normally.
     
  4. ddp

    ddp Moderator Staff Member

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    did you try using the function key that switches monitors?
     
  5. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    Thanks, I gave that a try, but the key-stroke combo that does that only works after the hard drive is accessed and Windows starts to load.
     
  6. ddp

    ddp Moderator Staff Member

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    was multiple screens in the bios before upgrade of cpu as this link does not show that but for windows only? ftp://ftp.dell.com/Manuals/all-products/esuprt_laptop/esuprt_latitude_laptop/latitude-d630_user%27s%20guide%202_en-us.pdf
     
  7. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    Yes. Until I swapped the CPU, I was able to keep the laptop lid closed and use the external monitor exclusively.
     
  8. ddp

    ddp Moderator Staff Member

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    you didn't update the bios at all did you after the cpu change?
     
  9. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    I did after I discovered the problem with the monitor. It made no difference
     
  10. omendata

    omendata Regular member

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    Check your bios settings - reset to default if you havent already!
    Check the video setting in the bios - i think there is an option to set video display primary to "dock"

    Bios revisions A13 worked for these chips at the time.

    The only other thing you can really do is downgrade the bios and try different versions - I am always reluctant to give that piece of advice as you should never really downgrade a bios once it has hit a higher revision but if you really are desperate its all you can hope for!

    Onboard Devices:
    . Integrated NIC = enabled
    . Internel modem = enabled
    . External USB ports = enabled
    . Parallel port = ECP
    . Serial port = COM1
    . PC Card and 1394 = enabled
    . SATA Operation = AHCI
    . Module Bay Device = Enabled
    . Flash Cache Module = Off
    . ASF Mode = Off
    . Microphone = Enabled
    Video:
    . Ambient Light Sensor = Off
    . Brightness = max
    . Brightness (AC) = max
    . Primary Video = Docking Station
    Security:
    . Admin Password = not set
    . System Password = not set
    . Internal HDD PW = not set
    . Password Change = Permitted
    . Password Bypass = Off or Reboot & Resume Bypass (or any other value)
    . Wireless Switch Change = Denied
    . Wi-Fi Catcher Change = Denied
    . CPU XD Support = Enabled
    . TPM Security = Off
    . TPM Activation = Deactivate
    . Computrace® = Deactivate
    Performance:
    . Multi Core Support = Enabled
    . Dynamic Acceleration = Off (Can be set to On with T9x00 CPUs, keep Off with T7X00 CPUs or FSB speed is reduced)
    . SpeedStep Enable = Enabled
    Power Management:
    . Auto On Mode = Off
    . Auto On Time = xxxxxx
    . USB Wake Support = Enabled (allows waking from USB when laptop is on mains only)
    . Wake on LAN/WLAN = Off
    Docking:
    . Undocking Method = Hot Undock
    . PCI Slot Monitoring = Enabled Silent
    . Universal Connect = Enabled
    POST Behavior:
    . Adapter Warnings = Enabled
    . Fn Key Emulation = Scroll Lock
    . Fast Boot = Minimal
    . Virtualization = Enabled
    . Keypad (Embedded) = Fn Key Only
    . Mouse/TouchPad = Touchpad-PS/2
    . Numlock LED = On
    . USB Emulation = Enabled
    Wireless:
    . Internal Bluetooth = Enabled
    . Internal Wi-Fi = Enabled (keep to Disabled if you have an Intel card, they're not supported and need to be replaced)
    . Internal Cellular = Enabled
    . Wireless Switch = All
    . Wi-Fi Catcher = Enabled
    . LAN/Wi-Fi Auto Switch = Off
     
  11. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    I've spent a lot time trying, checking and rechecking BIOS settings. As I've said, the problem occurs whether or not the laptop is docked. Also, the problem continued even after I switched back to the old CPU, with which I never had a problem. At this point, I don't think it has anything to do with the BIOS version or Setup. I think it's a hardware issue, most likely the reed switch. I've learned that the POST will display on an external monitor only if the laptop lid is closed and some experimenting with Windows power options has demonstrated that my computer doesn't know when the lid is closed. The mechanism that tells the computer the lid is closed is interaction between a magnet under the bezel at the top of the display and a reed switch on the computer. People have said that the reed switch is located on the mb, but judging by details posted for replacement palmrests, it's actually on the palmrest itself. Tomorrow, I'm planning to go back into the computer for the nth time and this time I'll take some pictures. I've found the location of the magnet on the display and I need to match it up with what I see on the mb and the underside of the palmrest. I'll post back after I've done that. Damage to the palmrest during dis-assembly and re-assembly is certainly possible (it can be very stubborn to remove and replace, as evidenced by several YouTube vids) and I'm hoping that I can find visible evidence of damage, because it's quite cheap to replace.
     
  12. omendata

    omendata Regular member

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    I see i should have read more closely i thought it was more to do with the docking station but yes nothing to do with bios - must be something you have dislodged - i have a few Dell D630 stripped and awaiting repair - will have a look - its a new one on me but yes it probably is a stuck switch!
     
  13. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    OK, I took some pictures. The first one shows the front edge of the underside of the palmrest lying under the top edge of the display (the gray object on the bezel of the screen is a row of steel staples sticking to the magnet underneath). As can be seen, the area of the palmrest that would be directly under the magnet with the lid closed contains nothing at all. If the reed switch is under that plate covering the mouse pad buttons, perhaps the magnet affects it by creating a magnetic field adjacent to it? (The steel plate can be removed but I'm reluctant to mess with it).

    http://imageshack.us/a/img36/34/cmsw.jpg

    The second picture shows the front edge of the top of the palmrest and the corresponding area on the motherboard underneath. Again, nothing under the magnet but the battery compartment.

    http://imageshack.us/a/img833/8620/al3t.jpg

    Several sites selling the palmrest state that it includes "coin cell, touch pad, and reed switch". Since a reed switch is activated by a magnet, it has to be somewhere in the area opposite that magnet. I should go back in and remove that plate to see exactly what's under it and, unless someone knows the answer, I guess I'll have to.
    I really don't see how I could have damaged anything in that area by removing and replacing the palmrest except possibly the connector from the palmrest to the motherboard. If that's the problem, the damage could be either on the palmrest or the motherboard side, so replacing the palmrest would give me only a 50-50 chance of fixing it. Although I doubt that it plays any part in the process, I supposed the problem could also be in the LCD cable. Or some tracery on the motherboard. I hate to think that the only way to troubleshoot this is to keep replacing parts.
     
  14. omendata

    omendata Regular member

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    I have 4 x D630 in pieces - gonna build two good ones out of the bits so ill take the reed out and see what happens! If you need any parts at least you know where to come to!
    lol

    Cant do it till i get access to my server room / workshop on Saturday though.
     
  15. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    ".... ill take the reed out and see what happens!"

    I'll be anxious to learn what you find out. I guess that if I start replacing parts, I'd have to start with the entire palmrest assembly, considering that I don't know where the fault might be.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  16. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    I wrote that I didn't see how I could have damaged anything in the area opposite the magnet, but upon closer reflection, I do see how! At one point, while initially removing the palmrest, I remember briefly prying a little with a flat head screw driver, and I think that it was right in that area. I immediately realized that that was probably not a very good idea and stopped, but now, the most likely explanation for this whole problem seems to be that the reed switch is under that metal plate covering the mouse buttons and that I put enough pressure on the plate in that brief moment with the tip of the screwdriver to damage it. I could remove the plate and hopefully find a crushed glass tube underneath to confirm the diagnosis, but I feel confident enough that that's the problem that I've gone ahead and ordered a used palmrest from a reputable seller on eBay. I'd eventually have to try that, anyway. If it works, it will be a pretty cheap fix at $9 with free shipping.
    I'll report back on whether or not that fixes it. If I'd mentioned the screwdriver in the first place, it would have made a diagnosis much simpler, but I'd half forgotten it and it didn't seem significant. At the time, I'd never heard of a reed switch and had no notion of the importance of the computer knowing that the lid is closed in order for the monitor to work.
     
  17. omendata

    omendata Regular member

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    Yeah the lid always has a sensor sometimes mounted under the screen it presses it down usually not a reed switch the magentic method is more expensive but more elegant i think!

    Let us know how you get on but yeah when you take a laptop apart never force anything "ever" thats the general rule!!!
     
  18. kblackk

    kblackk Member

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    Bummer! Swapping the palmrest had no effect. Since I don't want to sink a bunch of money into replacing parts just for the sake of troubleshooting, I guess I'll have to basically give up for now. I did find out that the metal plate covering the bottom of the mouse buttons is permanently attached to the circuit board underneath, so undoing the screws just removes the whole assembly. If the reed switch is truly under there somewhere, it must be really small and jammed under or between the mouse buttons somehow.
    If I didn't damage the reed switch with that screwdriver, I'm sure I didn't do anything to damage anything else, except possibly the cable connecting the palmrest to the motherboard. I'm not sure if that can be replaced but I'll check it out.
    I'm beginning to think the problem may be in the lid somewhere. I don't know if you can see it in the picture I posted, but there is a crack in the bezel of the screen right next to the location of the magnet. That was there when I got the computer and I never had a problem until I disassembled and re-assembled the computer when I originally changed the CPU, but it might have something to do with the issue. Ideally, I'll meet somewhat who has the same computer who'll let me temporarily swap the display to see if that helps. In the meantime, thanks to everyone for their help.
     

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