For DVDs that large you need to run it through Shrink twice. Save it to your hard drive then open it up and run it through again
Hi there harismd, Yep, What Neph said. Run it through to a file on your Desktop using all quality enhancements (I suggest Maximum Sharpness) and deep analysis, then pick it up and run it a second time. There isn't a DVD made that won't be small enough after that . . . Cheers, Pete
Hey all... completely new here... and I must say... God Bless Scuba Pete... you are the man... your instructions on DVD Shrink & Decrypter were awesome and easy to follow... which I guess is going to make my inquiry either contradictory to my statement or make me look less technically incline than I am but either way... here it is... I am in no way new to technology... I've been in IT for over 10 years... but as someone else stated earlier... just new to DVD burning... my question is that I took the main title (only) of the film in question (Re-Author)... and then chose only 1 of the first two 5.1 audio tracks listed... I honestly can't recall if I took DTS or AC3 (think it was DTS)... but I only took one... went through the entire process... and it burned beautifully... but I get an error "no audio DTS" displayed on the players LCD... the picture plays immaculately... but my question is are both 5.1 tracks required or not? at first i thought it was my player... but there is no audio on my pc nor on my 2 dvd players... if i need both so be it... but i would prefer to compress as little as possible (not that there is that much difference in another 100-200mb of a second audio track)... if you could kindly elaborate I would greatly appreciate it... P.S. I've tried 1 click, dvdxcopy, and dvdxplatinum and I honestly like shrink and decrypter better... more control... using Plextor PX-716SA and Verbatim 16x DVD+R Advanced AZO thanks again... Taimakk
taimakk, I have had as many as 5-seperate, AC3 5.1 Audio tracks. I keep everything in English, discard all forgien languages, all AC3 2-ch, Unless I want Director's comments and I deltete the DTS tracks. All works out great. Keeping an extra Audie stream isn't adding all that much and by using the Re-authoring mode, you cannot tell the difference between the original, even on a HDD or Plasma set. I have 1-click and XCopy - XCopy was good in it's day BUT there's no way to control the encoding (to make it better) and so Shrink does a superior job. 1-Click is fine if you want speed and don't care much for quality BUT you don't need to be knowledgable to use Shrink in the re-author mode - Since you now like Shrink - I want you to try Recode2 in the :Remake a DVD" mode - you'll love that. Works just like Shrink (the same guy wrote both) BUT you keep active menus Burn on, Pete
Thank you for the quick response Steve... with that having been said and having read ALL of the tutorials you have listed from the link in your signature... I have yet to try another combination of programs thus far as I am still in work... however... in your opinion... since i used Shrink & Decrypter and only taking the main film in itself whereinas the 2 (quality) checkboxes in Shrink were grayed out so only extremely minimal compression was required - took about 40 minutes to do... would doing the newly suggested scenario in using Shrink "again" with Recode2 for the addition of menu functionality be a longer process?... It would be common sense on my part to assume that the Shrink aspect of the process would take the same amount of time... what I'm wondering is if the second stage would be quicker or slower in using Recode as opposed to the above scenario using Decrypter... if it's even fair to compare one to the other... each of course have their pro's and con's but I'm just trying to get the best quality/features/speed for my individual preference... Oh... and at the risk of being a total nuisance... should the actual "burn" process have taken 45 minutes give or take considering I used 16x DVD+R in my plextor and set Decrypter to burn at 16X if I remember correctly? The reason I ask this is because I thought that @16x you could burn 4.7gig in roughly 6 minutes according to Plextor's website. http://www.plextor.com/english/products/716SA.htm Overview "The PX-716SA DVD±R/RW CD-R/RW internal Serial ATA (SATA)drive from Plextor® offer all the advantages or our legendary CD-RW drives. Along with double layer and dual format capabilities, the PX-716SA is also supported by Intelligent Recording technology to enhance your recording activities. The drive achives blazing fast 16X CAV performance on recommended 8X DVD+R media, and burns a 4.7GB DVD in less than six minutes, the drive also supports dual-layer DVD media, enabling users to burn up to four hours of high-quality." Thanks again for everything and I'm sorry for being such a newbie. -Taimakk
(and again, as it happened once, so very long, long ago, . . . . I'm quite sure I hear the haunting melody of the Twilight Zone theme, as it advances, ever so softly along with a backdrop of an early evening fog, . . . . the sounds swirling with the fog, ever so slowly, as comes up from the bog and across the low-lying fields. I watch from the front porch, . . . . An after-dinner drink clutched nervously in a slightly trembling hand, the ice clinking lightly against the sides of the glass, . . . . I remember so very well, was it in another time, a lifetime ago ? Was I answering to another's name, who was this stranger named Steve who haunts my dreams, intrudes into my life ? I recall reading something about the lack of sound coming from a movie, No, it couldn't possibly be, could it ? Was it me OR was it Memorex ? The other me, . . . was he concerned about speed ? No, it's not possible . . . . I need sleep, . . . so long without it, . . . So very, very long with intelligent conversation, . . . my mind wanders so, . . . Do I imagine too much ? No, perhaps not, . . . Now the sound echos across the still night's quiet, . . . . Yes, without a doubt, it is the Twilight Zone, . . . . My drink needs freshening, . . I wander into the house, searching for sanity, . . . .
Sorry Pete, Interestingly enough when I was writing back to you all that kept ringing in my head between the picture in your sig and the name was "ScubaSteve" from Big Daddy with Adam Sandler. That's quite alright Wild77... for the feeble minded... resistance to temptation is futile... so you're excused... besides... we wouldn't want you to strain yourself. -Taimakk
taimakk, I know it doesn't do much good to speak against speed now a days BUT, I have to give it a try to avoid the questions that will crop up later. Yes, you can burn at 16X on 8X discs as long as you're burning simple Data discs. Ooohhh, yes, they forgot to mention that part. The thing with advertising, they don't give you 100% of the truth. Youngsters of today want cheap, fast and guarantees. No problem, I guarantee you one thing, if you try to burn DVD's at 16X you will generate a very large collection of coasters. Saving as much as you can buying "cheapo quality discs" will insure even more coasters and those discs you do succeed with probably won't play within the year, maybe 2. It isn't your settings, your software or anything else that you can fiddle with; it's your speed and your media. Thought you might like to know up front so you won't be wasting time posting endless threads. When attempting to achieve the best burn, consider reducing that burn speed to the 4X level. Iffin you have a new 16X, DL burner, you'll probably do well at 6X. It is my feeling that 8X and over leads to occasional coasters, even when using top grade stuff such as Taiyo Yuden's OR Verbatim DataLife Plus media. The second part of the solution is to always use a decent grade media. I suggest something like those discs made by Taiyo Yuden, Ritek, Mitsubishi or RICOH. Unfortunately, they are also the discs most plagued by pirate Mfgrs. and for that reason I like dealing with Mertline, Supermediastore OR Newegg who have a great return policy on their products. I have had great luck with RiData and Verbatim DataLife Plus discs and their prices are extremely reasonable.[/b] As a passing note, when buying Verbatim's, they come with a lifetime warrantee. Return them with your sales slip OR register receipt and a new one will be shipped to replace it. For the best online media stores to shop, try - Mertline.com http://meritline.com/ Newegg.com http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-132-344&depa=0 And, Supermediastore.com http://www.supermediastore.com/media1.html Shopping around can prove worthwhile - Staples, as of this date, offered HP+R DVD's (I LQQked them up in MediaMatch and they are made by Mitsubishi) for $18.00 per 50. Verbatim's were on sale $10.00 rebate for a pack of 25, $20.00 (USD) for a pack of 50 AND Taiyo Yuden where on sale with their -R, 4X DVD's for $.27 each (USD) in packs of 100, a fortnight past - Think of it, TY's for $27 ea. There are sales all the time for the "GREAT" stuff - So you sea, quality isn't always expensive ~ Something to watch out for, ~> In today's market, now more than any other time, beware of pirated fakes. See articles at the bottom of my post ~ DVD Video media; Memorex is an excellent example as DVD media goes. 90% of Memorex discs are made by CMC and is sub-standard as far as DVD backups are concerned. Figures as high as 50% coasters have been reported (One member bought a stack of 50 and got 23 good burns.), not what I would call an impressive record. Memorex made a name for itself with their magnetic tapes (VHS and audio cassettes) and have been living off it ever since. There are 4 different companies that manufacture Memorex DVD's BTW and product quality varies widely as you might imagine. Only 10% of the Memorex out there, those are discs manufactured by Mitsubishi in the 25 pack spindle , and they're the exception - they are the good ones. It's easy to see now why the quality of a big-named company can't be trusted - " Who's making your Memorex tonight ?" Is it just Memorex ? No ! I just used Memorex as an example, Princo, Orange Pack, Great AZO and most "store" discs aren't all that suitable as a DVD backup media - that's why we are specific in the type of media we are recommending. 1. * Cheap media freezes, skips, pixelats and may refuse to be recognized by both burners and players :-( Besides "Freezing", "skips" many times you'll get a "Cyclic Redundancy error" (CRC error) or an "I/O error". This message can mean that your discs are scratched or dirty, it can also mean that your burner won't accept your "cheap" media :-( Another problem which, "Pops up" is a "*Power Calibration Error". This can stop you right in your tracks and most often is caused by, "Yep, you guessed it", inexpensive media. *A "Power Calibration Error" can also be attributed to the Optical Components of a DVD Writer, though this isn't usually the case. Orange Pack, Princo, Great AZO and 90% of Memorex, plus many others are just not that good for DVD burning. Those same discs however, are quite good for your MP3 music, picture archives, Spreadsheets and Data..Even DataSafe G04's made by Ritek have been reported as an inferior quality media and are evoking that "Oh no, I shouldn't have gotten those." What we are suggesting is to download this DVD Identifier to find out who manufactured your DVD and if it's a decent quality. http://dvd.identifier.cdfreaks.com/ Once you have your disc identified, click the "More information" icon and see what information you're given. if you're not sure of the quality, come on back and we'll check it out for you - 2. A good grade, Hi-quality media is needed for DVD reproduction ! Phillips, TDK, HP, "Branded" RiData Go3's, Maxell +R (not the -R's as they cannot be trusted), Sony, Fuji, Ritek G04 and G05, Verbatim - DataLife, Verbatim - DataLife Plus and media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO" BUT, it must say "Advanced METAL AZO", this indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc. Generally, almost any discs manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, RICOH and Mitsubishi are excellent bets. [/b Prices online from Meritline.com OR Newegg.com have gotten Ritek G04 starting at about a $ .36 (USD) a disc - and just recently, a "super Sale" had TY discs, 2.4X for $.27(USD)ea. For DVD backups, purchasing inexpensive media or even average media is a gamble, some people win BUT, the majority lose, they lose varying amounts true but, they still lose :-( Using good grade media can guarantee you one thing to an absolute certainty; it surely cannot hurt. Cheers, Pete
scuba is soooo right about speed, i play it even safer, i only burn at 2.4x and no burning problems ever.
I have been using Memorex DVD+RW's and DVD+/-R's ever since I purchased my DVD Burner a few years back I have never once had a bad burn due to poor disc quality not once. Last year I bought 6 huge boxes of them because a truck that was carrying them was involved in an accident and the entire load was scattered along the road. I paid $100 for 5000 DVD’s and the only problems that I have had were from ones where there was obvious physical damage to the disc itself. I have gone through close to half of them over the last year and I have only made coasters out of 12 and that was because of chips or huge scratches.
@jlo871983, All I can say is that you're one incredibly lucky Dude. When I write about media, especially Memorex, it's not just my own experience, it's the experience of a thousand PLUS other pple from over the years that have proved, without any doubt, that 90% of Memorex media resides at the bottom of the quality disc list when it comes to DVD video work. I've used Memorex for storing Data such as business records, taxes, student records and teaching materials and not ever a problem. "Why," you ask did I get any Memorex if they were so bad with Video work ? Fair question. Pple have purchased tons of discs for me (thinking they were being nice) and for some unknown reason, when pple who don't know anything about PC'S Buy discs, they always buy Memorex, Go figure ? Soooo, when speaking to pple in forum, a place where untold others also read these lines, hoping to extract some useful information, I tell them about these thousands of other's experiences in order to save them money and headaches. For every single person that's had N/P, there are hundreds of others who have lost heir information because of premature deterioration OR have stacks and stacks of coasters because the dye toward the edge f the disc was uneven Or not even there. Cheers, Pete
Hi ScubaPete,I am new to the forum and to DVD burning. Many thanks for all your explanations.A question please, about 'audio' and what to leave out (when using DVD shrink) for better compression etc.. OK, so I leave out DTS audio, as well as all foreign languages audio, this I understand. But sometimes I find the same audio e.g, 'AC35.1-ch English' repeated 2 or 3 times !! and de-selecting one or more would lessen the compression. So How do I know which one to de-select when they're the same audio ? Also, I have only been using DVD shrink .. it does everything for me from start to finish. I haven't downloaded the DVD Decrypter..so why is there a need for it ? Cheers, Adam
Hi Adam, For one, the AC3 2-ch audio tracks are most likely "Director comments" sound tracks for AD's, trailers and such. Feel free to shut them down along with the DTS (Digital Audio track) The largest AC3 2-ch and the AC3 2-ch 5.1 (Dolby) are the sound tracks for the main feature. Actually the AC3 2-ch 5.1 is all you really need at it is your surround sound. Just keep these two There are some small tracks under "subpicture" which are your closed-caption and really of no use at all. As to your question about DVD Shrink, 1. Yes, it does have a ripper BUT it is old and not very efficient, maybe able to handle about 80% of the DVD's on the market, DVD Decrypter is far, far better as is AnyDVD. Also, DVD Shrink doesn't have a burner SO, although it can rip many DVD's, encode, edit and compress them, it cannot burn them to disc. It requires CopyToDVD, Nero OR DVDD in order to burn them. When the all the chips are in, DVDD (FREE) CopyToDVD (39.99) Nero Ultra Edition (79.99) Most pple like DVDD. Why ? Because it's closer to the beginning of the alphabet. Seems like the best reason to me (Lol).
Very new to this but all I am looking for is the best program to Copy DVDs! I want to be able to just take a DVD whether it be eposodic or not and copy it to a blank DVD and have it work down the road. Any advice on which program to buy and which blank dvds to use will be every helpful. Thank you!!
As you see, all programs have some problems. I've tested many, many 1-click programs and if you wish to spend some $$$$, I suggest AnyDVD and CloneDVD2 OR DVD2One as their encoders are well above the average in quality and they will take care of 98% of the DVD's you're liable to run across. My suggestion, I've just updated a new guide and it hasn't even been posted on my site yet BUT here it is. The programs are FREE and, as of this date, if you follow everything INCLUDING THE MEDIA RECOMMENDATIONS, it will copy 100% of all the discs in circulations currently. Here's A mirror image DVD copy using Freeware by ScubaPete We'll need us some things for starters and, since I'm such an old "Dude," you'll have ta get them for us. Right then, ~ Off ya go, we'll need your favorite DVD, so that we can make a copy of it, in case a tidal wave comes by in the next hour or so. Next, we'll need to have 2, really tall, cold Cokes and a really big bag of potato chips. One Coke for you, cause you're such a good kid and the other Coke for me. What's that ? The bag of chips you say ? Ooohh, those are for me, so that I can keep up my strength. Sorry, I can't share them with you, it's a medical condition type of thing. (Yea, that's my story and I'm sticking with it. ) Me, I'm going to wait right here until you get back and then we'll get started - Are you ready ? Good - Here we go, step by step ~ it can't fail, "Uncle" ScubaPete's ~ Mirror Image Backup Guide. I hope you're "fired up" 'cause me and thee are going ta burn a DVD backup right now. Of course the main thing is to download the programs we'll need before you can think of doing anything else ~ Program # 1. DVD Decrypter is the beginning and the end of our project. We use this program to get the movie files from the original DVD to our Hard Drive (HD for short) and then to burn them onto our backup disc. We sometimes call DVD Decrypter, DVDD for short. Remember that, there will be a test on it later. (Get your DVD Decrypter here ~ ) http://www.afterdawn.com/software/video_software/dvd_rippers/dvd_decrypter.cfm b]Program # 2.[/b] We need to get DVD Shrink. DVD Shrink is the workhorse of our backup. It takes our large DVD encodes it and compresses it to fit on a single-sided DVD. When we become comfortable with it, we can also use DVD Shrink to edit out unwanted things like foreign languages and trailers. (Get your DVD Shrink here ~ ) http://www.dvdshrink.org/ Now that we've done that ~ Get yourself nice and relaxed and follow this easy, step by step, this "puppy" can't fail, ScubaPete Guide. It's cooler than a snowball down the back of your pants in March (Weeeee ! ) First, Create a folder on your HD for your backup work. Name it something easy PLUS the name of the DVD you're working with. I call mine, "All My DVD work." Try to put it someplace where you won't forget it, i.e. C:\All My DVD Work \ Dumb and Dumber Meet the Parents Out for a Kill get Eaten Alive. Now, and this is important, create another folder inside the first one and name it "VIDEO_TS". [/b]Written EXACTLY like that as it is case sensitive. This is where DVD Decrypter will place your original's decrypted files. To be sure we don't miss a setting, and that all steps are followed EXACTLY ~ Why not PRINT THIS GUIDE OUT NOW ! (So much easier to work with iffin we do that, don't Ya know ? Next, let's get DVDD setup. ~ Did you remember what DVDD stood for ? Yea ? I knew you would Are you ready ?? Good. Then let's open up DVDD. Now, I'd like to make a couple of small adjustments to DVDD. For that we need to go to "Tools," then "Settings," then click on the "General tab." Under "Removal Method," - please change that from "Normal" to "Aggressive." Next, go to the "I/O tab." At the bottom-right I'd like you to put a check where it says "Ignore Read Errors." This will help speed things along by bypassing any tiny scratch-caused errors on the original disc. Finally, let's go to the "Device tab." Under "Eject Tray after," I like to check both "Read" and "Write" so that if I'm busy doing something and my PC's sound is turned down, the tray opening alerts me that DVDD's job is done. If you don't want that to happen, don't check those boxes. Now, click "OK." In DVDD's main window, under "Mode," select "File." ~ (If I'm doing an Episodel DVD, I use "Mode," then ISO and then "Read," to get all of the episodes, menus and the like. HOWEVER, for almost every other DVD, I use the "Mode" - "File" setting.) ~ Where it says "Source," browse to your DVD ROM drive with your waiting original DVD OR, if your DVD ROM isn't installed yet, locate and select your burner. Lastly, where it says "Destination," browse to the folder we just created and select the VIDEO_TS folder for your "Destination." Did you put that DVD you wanted to work with in the "Source" drive yet ? You didn't ? Well then, let's get the "lead" out and get it done. (Lol) Good, your Mommy would be very proud of you. While we continue working, let's start Mr. DVDD a-working on our DVD so we don't waste too much time. SO, to get that ball rolling, simply "click" the "Drive to HD" icon. DVDD will decrypt the DVD files and place them on our HD and, when it's all completed, it will let us know by playing a little "Finished" tune and "spit" out the Disc. ("Gee willikers Mr. Bill, I'm tired already - this is really a lot of work." (Lol) Next, open DVD Shrink. You have the final version of DVD Shrink so treat it nicely. Let's click "Edit," then click "Preferences," on this page we're going to select "DVD Target Size" and change it from DVD-5 to "Custom" and set the size no higher than 4360MB. If your blank discs aren't the best, drop your size to 4300MB. We do this to ensure that we're not burning to the very edge of the disc where the dye may be uneven OReven absent. Next, under the "File I/O" tab, ""tick "Enable burning with Nero" then click "OK". When you put your blank DVD in, it should be a Hi-grade, Hi-quality media. Only the very best media should be used for DVD Video burning. By that we mean, Phillips, Fuji +R's but not the -R's UNLESS they are made in Japan. Sony, TDK, HP, "Branded" RiData Go3's are also fine as is the Maxell +R, but (not the -R's, they cannot be trusted. The Ritek G04 and G05's are likewise good but not the 01's or the 02's, Verbatim DataLife, Verbatim DataLife Plus and media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO"are top-of-the-line BUT, it must say "Advanced METAL AZO." Advanced Metal AZO indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc.As a general rule, the majority of discs manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, Mitsubishi, RICOH and most Ritek are good bets. Look closely at the discs we recommended, you will see some dye types not listed by us. Those are poor risks even though they are made by the same companies. Prices online from SuperMediaStore.com, Meritline.com OR Newegg.com have Verbatim discs starting at $.36 (USD) a disc - and recently, a "Super Sale" had 100 Taiyo Yuden -R discs at 4X writing speed for $.25(USD)ea. NOTE: Those online stores I've just listed, beside having great sales, also have an excellent return policy. Don't underestimate DVD media, it is of major importance when working with DVD video. Using poor quality media, i.e. Memorex, etc. may well cause unnecessary errors, Now is defiantly not the time to put in your, "Boy did I save money buying this crappy stuff," This may be a good time to use a DVD RW. We won't use them regularly because for 1, many older DVD players don't play them and 2, they cost too much (Lol). We want to use them now because if we make a mistake, it won't cost us a disc. When we get our steps down pat we'll then switch to our single-write media.[/b] Let's open DVD Shrink and "click' "Open Files." Now, browse to our created VIDEO_TS folder where DVDD sent our original's files. We'll just "chill" for the 30-45 seconds it takes for DVD Shrink analyze those files. Ya ready ? Good ! Let's burn that "Bad Dog." Today, we're doing a total backup. That's means that all the things on the original disc we'll be putting on the backup disc. There's no problem in doing this as long as we don't see any "Red" on the size bar at the top, right-hand area of DVD Shrink's program. (If you should see some "Red" there, on the size bar, simply "Un-tick" any unwanted foreign languages like Bovine Slobber Jaw, Saturn Ring Worrble, Director's comments or DTS sound boxes until the "Red" disappears.) With no "Red," we just let the "Automatic" (Default) settings alone. THEN we select "Backup." Our final settings will take just a second. Under "Target Device" go to "Select backup target " once there, select "ISO Image File and burn with DVD Decrypter" . Now, under "Quality Settings", if it's SPEED you're after, "un-tick" the box which says, "Perform deep analysis" and "un-tick" the box for "Compress the video with high quality adaptive error compensation". This will give you an acceptable DVD backup. Go to the "Let's Burn" section of this guide. If it's QUALITY you're after and have some extra time to spend, "tick" "Perform deep analysis" before backup to improve quality AND "tick" "Compress video with high quality adaptive error compensation." There you may adjust quality enhancements. Practicing with the settings can produce even better end products. For a no-frills DVD's like "There's something about Mary" I like Maximum Smoothness BUT for DVD's with a lot of special effects, i.e. Alien Vs. Predator OR Matrix Revolutions, I use the Maximum Sharpness setting. That's for me, you'll have to decide what you like Let's Burn ! If all the boxes are "grayed out" that's great, it means your DVD is small enough that nothing at all will be lost from the original. Finally, where it says "Select target image file", browse till you find your created folder for your backup (NOT THE VIDEO_TS Folder, JUST THE MAIN FOLDER) and click "Save". That's it ! Click "OK" and DVD Shrink begins the process that burns that compressed ISO image to your HD. What that means is, DVD Shrink then opens DVD Decrypter and has it burn the ISO image to your waiting blank DVD. NOTE: The "ISO" Image IS your processed DVD movie. Your movie can be in one of two forms either files OR an image. Both play the DVD on your PC and your standalone players. Now, this is IMPORTANT - Don't use your PC for anything at all while she's working. I'M NOT KIDDING ! STAND BACK FROM THE COMPUTER ! Burning a DVD isn't anything like working with CD's at all. It's a resource, that's processor and RAM intensive operation. Just chill and watch some "tube" for awhile and when PC's done working, she'll let you know, heh, heh - Hey, I've got to get going ~ I want to pick up a DVD to watch tonight from Block Buster's ~ Just give me a holler when you get done and "catch me up" on how it all turned out, OK ? Kweel "Beans," Chat with you later - When you need a guide with a misguided sense of reality, shop ScubaPete ) - THANKS FOR CHOOSING A SCUBAPETE GUIDE - Remember, hurry back, we'll be a-waiting for a full report - Cheers, Pete
Hi Pete, OK, I applied all the settings etc... as per your tutorial. I could see DVDD working hard at decrypting the DVD files and placing them in the VIDEO_TS folder I created. And sure enough, when the job was done, the DVD was ejected and an ''Operation Successfully Completed'' notice was shown. However, DVD shrink could not locate the file! I got an error message. I opened the VIDEO_TS folder myself .. just to make sure that the files were there .. but there was nothing !! completely empty!!! I started all over again and watched all the action DVDD was doing ..and all was looking fine .. the destination was the VIDEO_TS folder I created .. but the same thing happened, DVD shrink could not locate the files, and neither could I!! There was one oddity: As DVDD was doing its work, I could see 3 progress bars: ''Current,Total and Buffer''. At the end of DVDD's work, the ''Current and Total'' bars were showing 100% .. while the ''Buffer'' bar was still showing Zero%!!! and that's how things stood when the DVD was ejected, with the ''Operation Successfully Completed'' message !! Is the ''Buffer'' progress bar supposed to stay at Zero%?? Should I try to download DVDD again ? Cheers, Adam
Hi Pete, Please ignore my above post.I am not sure exactly what went wrong the first few times. I now deleted the original folder I created and just made another one and everything seemed to work Sorry for taking up forum space. Like so many people,I am very grateful to you for all the hours and hours you spend helping beginners like myself, and ofcourse the extra bonus: The humour Not sure which part of the world you're in, but if you ever contemplate a visit to Finland (I live in a charming City 200KM from Helsinki ) The beer is on me All the very best, Adam
pete In your guide, reading the description for the DVDD, it said for only dvds SMALLER then 4.36 GB. What if we want to burn a dvd larger then that!!
Well, I for one values Scuba Pete's posts as grade A information. He has helped me immensely in solving problems in the past. So much so, that I now have NO problems, however, I WAS hoping for at LEAST 8x burns on my movie backups, when I purchase my new computer with that 16x DL burner...............oh, well, even at 6x it is twice as fast.
