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are my speakers being ruined?

Discussion in 'Receivers and amplifiers' started by caza125, May 15, 2006.

  1. codydog

    codydog Regular member

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    Ok, give me a day to go through all of my notes. Most car speakers are open air, not meant to be in an enclosure. This is where your distortion is coming from. Use the bowl method, put some insulation, "some people use 1" fiberglass," it's ok for the sides of the box, but I would use polyester pillow balleling. It doesn't break down as easily as fiberglass, and won't get into the cone, core, structure. For your subwoofer, experiment with insulation. You can actually increase the box size 10 to 20 percent by adding insulation. This will give the speaker a virtually larger box to operate in. What type of sub is it? It may be an acoustic type that needs a sealed enclosure to work properly. I'll ge the equations put in and let you know.
     
  2. codydog

    codydog Regular member

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    To view the equations I've transcoded so far click my name and then my blog. This is as word for word as I could get. I will need a lot more time to decrypt the enclosure and port design specs. Lots of variables. This is becoming an ancient art, the new peakers just need to be stuck in a proprietary box.
     
  3. caza125

    caza125 Member

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    thanks so much for the speaker notes it will help me alot. the sub is a 'Soundstram USA10'at the moment there is just sum dacron in the box.
     
  4. caza125

    caza125 Member

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    thanks so much for the speaker notes it will help me alot. the sub is a 'Soundstram USA10'at the moment there is just sum dacron in the box.
     
  5. caza125

    caza125 Member

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    if u click on my name then u can check out the pics of my box and there should be pics of the sub specs
     
  6. codydog

    codydog Regular member

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    Looks good. I bet they are power hungry. I just uploaded some graphs on porting and enclosures. If you port you don't have to follow the enclosure restrictions. That's what the port does, makes the enclosure virtually larger. I hope I'm not telling you what you already know. I just like to start at "a" and go from there.
     
  7. codydog

    codydog Regular member

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    Ok, put more graphs and things, up. Glad to hear people still want to learn things. I have a lot more. It was the late 80's when I was doing this. Sure could have used the internet then. But, i've got pages out of library books, physics books, and stuff locked in the far reaches of my memory. Just takes someone to ask the right question to knock it loose. Like i tell some of the guys building computers, the fun is in researching and trial and error. But once you get it, I mean really get an understanding of it all, it then falls in place. Then share the knowledge. Or what you learned is useless. CD. I'll get off my soapbox now.
     
  8. janrocks

    janrocks Guest

    Just my 50c as an ex-pro sound engineer...thinking back on what I know of enclosure loading.. you need to work out the static resonance of the boxes ..volume x largest dimension..will give you a peak standing wave resonance..then ports need to damp that resonance while not "unloading" the driver at frequencies below the fundamental.. it's not to let sound out, but more to make the driver see a larger and elastic space..therefore increasing the efficiency (dB/W/M) of the driver..whilst limiting the maximum excursion of the cone at frequencies below the fundamental..basically stopping the cone tearing itself out of the frame.. It's not as simple as cutting a hole somewhere..there are optimum sizes and positions..and maybe even the need for a transmission line damper..have a good time..this is a massive subject..
     
  9. codydog

    codydog Regular member

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    Way to go janrocks. And when the rings around uranus align with the stars of the what??????? Too much info. I like to keep it a hobby. Sounds like a fun course though.
     
  10. caza125

    caza125 Member

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    wow sounds like a lot of work...lol
     

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