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Can anyone, anywhere, reliably burn DVDs?

Discussion in 'DVDR' started by Kiernan, Nov 25, 2004.

  1. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    nailedny,

    Try this link, in the Force ASPI 1,8 download you'll also get Kill ASPI, use this to clean out all the non-working ASPI drivers THEN install your 1.8 ASPI layer and reboot. Then run ASPI Check to make sure all is OK.

    Pete





    xrm454,

    Sorry, I'm out of my field with that BUT -

    Try to adjust your bit-rate as mentioned in these notes by Minion -

    a guide for going FROM VCD to DVD
    (by Minion)

    If the files aren't encoded then you should Use Mpeg2 instead of Mpeg1 because it is a better format and maybe "Bump" the bitrate up to about 1500kbs. This will increase the Quality quite a Bit and still allow you to get 6 hours on a DVD if you use a audio bitrate of 192kbs....

    This DVD Format is Called SIF or CIF format and not every DVD authoring program will support this DVD format especially Cheapo DVD authoring programs. Both DVD Lab and TMPGEnc DVD Author will support this DVD format accept with DVDLab you have to use Mpeg2....

    You can just encode your files to VCD but use 48000HZ Audio and then author them to a DVD with no problems. That way you could fit 6+ hours of VCD quality Video on a DVD....

    When you encode a low resolution VCD file to full resolution DVD Format you loose a lot of quality because you are resizing a small resolution to a large resolution which is were you loose all of the quality, but there is no need to re-encode VCD's to DVD because VCD's are already DVD compliant accept for the audio which needs to be 48000hz to be on a DVD......

    a Note about settings in the GOP Structure settings:

    Set the "Output Interval for Sequence Header" to "1" and this will Put 1 sequence header before every GOP...
    You actually get Better quality when using a smaller GOP but it can cause a slightly bigger file size...
    This is the GOP I use:

    Number of I Pictures in GOP: 1
    Number of P Pictures in GOP: 4
    Number of B Picture ins GOP: 2
    Number of Frames in GOP: 15

    Perhaps that will help - let me know -

    Pete





    Hey Dave,

    You say it just started recently - When is the last time you ran Defrag on your HD ? A fragmented HD not only drastically slows down your system but it can cause all number of things to happen inside your PC, a messed up burn being one of them. Sometimes that is a symptom. Run Defragmenter and see how it goes then -

    Let's also dial the "Target size" back in DVD Shrink, Nero or whatever encoder you're using to around 4300MB's.

    We can always check the basics - 1. Let's check for up-to-date Firmware for your burner.

    "OK, so what is this "Firmware" garbage?" Fair question. Firmware is a "tutor" who's job it is to "introduce" all the different kinds of media to your burner and to tell your burner a little bit about it. What type of media it is and at what speed to burn it. As new media is introduced OR, as the Mfgrs of your burner find new ways to use it, new Firmware updates OR "Flash upgrades" come out to "school" your burner, keeping it up-to-date.

    At the bottom of the page look for "What's my firmware? - Try this little tool I found," Download this tool and check out your Firmware's health (up-to-date wise). You can probably get a current upgrade there also -

    http://flashman.rpc-1.com/

    Firmware page -

    http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_all.php

    Always check your burner's Mfgr's "Support" section to see if some newer Firmware is there -
    Firmware, You can't afford to be without it -

    Now we need to see if we have a working ASPI Layer.

    "Yea right, and ASPI stands for Another Stupid Piece of Insanity, right ?" No, not quite, it stands for "Advanced SCSI Programming Interface". "Well that tells me nothing, what's it do ?" That's a much easier question to answer. It is kind of a "translator" allowing your software to talk your hardware in a manner that your hardware will understand. Let's imagine an Earthman trying to talk to a rock. Now, think of a sledgehammer as being the interface. With the interface in play, the Earthman can tell the rock to disperse into gravel no matter what planet the rock is from, OK ? Good, let's see if we have a sledgehammer -

    2. Check for your ASPI Layer. If one isn't present, we'll need to get one and reinstall it, then reboot our PC to allow it to "settle in".

    ASPI Checker -
    http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/su...oduct/EZ-SCSI_5.0&filekey=aspichk.exe&sess=no

    Force 1.8 ASPI Layer -

    http://forceaspi18.w.interia.pl/

    If you've found you need an ASPI layer OR would like some additional information about it - here you go -
    http://cd-rw.org/articles/archive/aspisetup.cfm

    Finally, we need to check your DMA. "Ooohhh, no you're not ! Only my husband or my Doctor checks my "D", "M" . . whatever . . ." No, no, it's OK, DMA stands for "Direct Memory Access" transfer mode OR as we say in the computer field, it's a really, fast way to move stuff. Many PC's today are using UDMA or "Ultra Direct Memory Access transfer mode, or as we like to call it, a really super-duper fast way to move stuff as opposed to the PIO mode. The PIO or Programmed I/O mode, is a technique whereby the system CPU and support hardware directly control the transfer of data between the system and the hard disk since shortly after the beginning of PC's up until the mid-1990's. So we want DMA (fast) more than we PIO (slow).

    3. Let's check your Drive's transfer mode. It should be DMA-4, not PIO.
    Windows XP downgrades the Ultra DMA transfer mode after receiving six CRC errors and drops it down to the much slower PIO mode.

    To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager
    1. Open Device Manager
    2. Double-click IDE ATA//ATAPI Controllers to display the list of controllers and channels.
    3. Right-click the icon for the channel to which your burner is connected and select Properties. Now click the Advanced Settings tab.
    4. In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if available if the current setting says, "PIO Only."
    If the drop-down box already says, "DMA if Available" but the current transfer mode is PIO, then the user must "toggle" the settings. That is, change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and click "OK".
    Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to "DMA if available".

    OPTION: Right-click the burner and select "Uninstall" and then "OK" all prompts until the PC reboots. Upon rebooting, the PC should "find" your burner and reinstall it setting it by "Default" to DMA.

    LASTLY BUT IMPORTANT - If you are having trouble still with NERO, PRINT OUT NERO's log -

    Now let's see if everything will work together the way we want it to, OK ?

    Give it a test run and let us know how you make out -

    Pete






    Kiernan,

    The one thing that "Jumps" out at me is the media you are using. As kchev so correctly put it,

    I would change his statement to say there isn't a DVD Player made that won't play at least one format.

    HOWEVER, There are many, many standalone players that will not play RW media. Until recently, the majority of standalone wouldn't play RW's, only single write were accepted. I suggest you pickup some decent quality media DVD -R or +R media, whichever is compatible with your player. Here's the link to the compatible site - Also, lQQk around our threads to find some recommended media to use for DVD Video work. Picking the wrong discs can cause a whole host of problems and you've had your fair share of problems, you don't need any more -

    http://www.videohelp.com/dvdplayers.php

    Lastly, You just might want to run a laser disc cleaner thingie on your player, the lens does have to be cleaned every so often -

    Report back and let's see if we've made any improvement -

    Pete

     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2004
  2. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    vikings04,

    Memorex as an excellent example as DVD media goes, 90% of Memorex, made by CMC, is sub-standard as far as DVD backups are concerned, figures as high as 50% coasters have been reported (One member bought a stack of 50 and got 23 good burns.), not what I would call an impressive record. Memorex made a name for itself with their magnetic tapes (VHS and audio cassettes) and have been living off it ever since. There are 4 different companies that manufacture Memorex DVD's BTW and product quality varies widely as you might imagine. Only 10% of the Memorex out there, those are discs manufactured by Mitsubishi in the 25 pack spindle , and they're the exception – they are the good ones. It's easy to see now why the quality of a big-named company can’t be trusted - “ Who’s making your Memorex tonight ?”

    Is it just Memorex ? No ! I just used Memorex as an example, Princo, Orange Pack, Great AZO and most "store" discs aren’t all that suitable as a DVD backup media – that’s why we are specific in the type of media we are recommending.

    Orange Pack, Princo, Great AZO and 90% of Memorex plus many others are just not that good for DVD burning. Those same discs however, are quite good for your MP3 music, picture archives, Spread sheets and Data..Even DataSafe G04’s made by Ritek have been reported as an inferior quality media and are evoking that “Oh no, I shouldn’t have gotten those.”

    A good grade, Hi-quality media is needed for DVD reproduction ! RiData, Sony, TDK, "Branded" Ritek G04's or "Branded" Verbatim Data Life, Verbatim DataLife plus, Taiyo Yuden's and generally, almost any discs manufactured by Mitsubishi or RICOH are excellent bets. Among the better discs we're looking for, any media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO" - BUT it must say "METAL" AZO !, this indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc, while they are sometimes a bit "pricey" they are just the type of media we're looking for to do our DVD backups, Prices online from Meritline.com OR Newegg.com have gotten Ritek G04 starting at about a $ .45 (USD) a disc –

    For DVD backups, purchasing inexpensive media or even average media is a gamble, some people win BUT the majority lose, they lose varying amounts true but, they still lose :-(

    I'm so glad you're on a winning streak with your Memorex, May your luck never fail you -

    For the rest of you, remember, most of us, yes, myself included are losers - I'm still losing as more and more of my Memorex's are fading -

    One thing I haven't addressed is the life of a backup made on an "el cheapo" disc. We all know that data, music and video backups on CD's and DVD's will last forever, well, if not forever for at least 100 yrs or so - That's what we've read and I believed and that's why we backup our treasures to disc, so that they'll be safe. "BLAaaaT" (the bone chilling sound of an emergency air horn), Wrong, Dead Wrong ! Don't throw the originals away, you may very well need them. Your video camera tapes and family picture CD's and DVD's, may not be there the next time you want to look at them. "Point of fact," inferior discs have a tendency to "Break down]" in time. In a very short time, we're talking disc can breakdown in less than a single year, in as little as 6 to 8 months.

    This article was written about CD discs but DVD discs are exactly the same. I was miss-informed and this opened my eyes. Perhaps you'll find it as important as I did.
    http://news.independent.co.uk/world/science_technology/story.jsp?story=513486

    My personal observations on this subject -
    I have had about 40 backups that have refused to play after being stored for a year or more. I test all of my backups when they are burnt to be very sure that there are no problems. "In the Golden, Olden times," before I knew any better, the Memorex, Maxell and professional "Store Brand" discs (and any thing that was on sale) was what used before I switched to Ritek and Verbatim. It is the poor quality stuff that I have been experiencing my trouble with. I noticed that backup DVD's I had refused to play in my standalone player and on my PC. VOB files wouldn't play either and other discs that I backed up about the same time would "Freeze" part way through the movie. After switching to Verbatim and Ritek's, mostly the Ritek's because the price was right, I've not had 1 go "Flat" in over 1 ½ years. I still have some backups about 90 of them done on the "cheap stuff" and, as time wears on I lose a few more as I attempt to check them. I say to you, why did a backup play fine in "01"and "02" then "fail" in "03 ?? Some that were done in "01" never made it till "02" (it took me some time to learn, lol) and others done about the same time and "Failed" in "04"? Most of my backups from around December of "02" were done on the "good Stuff" and they still work fine today - not a single failure !

    As always, you have a choice -

    Cheers,

    Pete
     
  3. dravidham

    dravidham Member

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    Pete,

    Many thanks for the detailed reply.

    I've literally just picked up your message. It's 12.45p.m. here in the u.k, and after a rather hectic night of beer drinking the lads this evening, I feel it's best that I try your ideas out tomorrow when I can gather some brain cells:-/

    I'll post back & thanks again.

    All the best,

    Dave.
     
  4. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    It's OK there Dave, take care of the "Gray matter" first - get back to me whenever -

    Later, Mate

    Pete

     
  5. nailedny

    nailedny Guest

    Hi Pete,
    I did what you told me and everything is good so far.
    Thanks once again for all your help.
     
  6. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    Anytime at all - :)

    I'm certainly glad your problem's solved,

    I hope you know that you're welcome here even if you haven't a problem. LQQk around, check out some of the threads - You'll be surprised at the information you can garner.

    Information on "tricks" to get your PC humming faster, settings for your programs, new programs, some for free - some for trial that may save you time - warnings on hardware, S/w or media that might head off headaches for you in the future.

    You can make friends here, enjoy helping others - Though you may not feel that you know enough now to contribute, reading threads will add to your knowledge base in no time. Head to the "Safety Valve" forum and chat about any topic under the sun OR check out our forums on Digital Camcorders, Photography, Home Theater components, Games, p2p topics or even Cellular phones.

    We'll be lQQking for you -

    Me ? Well I'll be over there, behind the water cooler, under the potted Palm, sipping a cool one and answering questions - feel free to stop by and say "Howdy" -

    'till then, I'll be Sea'n you - :D)

    Pete
     
  7. xrm454

    xrm454 Guest

    Thanks again pete, At least I am burning now
    I will try this advice next. I'm learning alot
    #1 media to ALL that wonder this is true!!
    #2 read read read and ask.

    I will continue to learn find out what works
    and learn the controls

    Has anyone tried the vso divxtodvd ???
    seems pretty easy.

    also thanks Nephilim for keeping
    the forums useable for the ones
    who appreciate it

    Seee Yaaa soon LOL
     
  8. dravidham

    dravidham Member

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    Hi Pete,

    Well, I had a quiet night in last night, so I thought I'd try out your recommendations, starting of course with the easiest task first - the defrag. I then did a full disk scan.

    Tried about half a dozen burns after this, and they worked a dream, so I think I'll leave everything else as it is.

    Just bought a new Epson R200, so i'm off to buy a whole bunch of printable Riteks to play with.

    Thanks very much for your help. Happy burning.

    Cheers,

    Dave.
     
  9. huntert

    huntert Guest

    i have 850 mghz pc. i use dvd decrypter and dvd shrink with pretty good results. i rip with dvd decrypter,encode with dvd shrink, and burn with dvd decrypter. everything seems to take 1 1/2 to 2 hrs.
     
  10. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    xrm454 and Dave (dravidham),

    Hey Good Guys, Let's not think about saying "Goodbye" just yet -

    We'd still like you to stop by and visit even when you don't have problems you need help with - "Pop" in when you can and cruise around the different forums. You never know when we might have something that can make your computer work a little easier. You might pickup some valuable tips to boot. Checkout the "Safety Valve", it's a place where we "Chew the fat" on just about every topic under the sun. Heck, check out our forums on Digital Camcorders, Photography, Home Theater components, Games OR p2p topics.

    As an extra added bonus, when you see another person with a problem and you feel you might know something that could help, join in. As the Ogre said to the Cyclops, " Three heads are better than two." (Lol) You'll then see how much fun we have helping others. As a current member of our little club you can welcome the new guys in -

    We'll look forward to seeing you. "Me ?" You'll find me hangin' out over there by the water cooler, sittin' under the potted palm with my feet propped up, sipping on a "cold one", waiting for the next "Newbie" with a problem that I can help them with - maybe you'd like to join me . . . ? I'll be lQQkin for you - -

    Till then,

    I'll be Sea'n you -

    Pete ;p)






    Hi there huntert, welcome to our club,

    The reason that it's taking that long is because you're turning out quality copies. :)

    If you want to close that time to under an hour (the quality will be good but not as good as you're getting now) just go to "Quality Settings" when you're in Backup and "un-tick" both boxes. Your speed will shorten quite a bit -

    I like good quality myself so I wait the extra time BUT as in everything, the choice is yours -

    Peace,

    Pete

     
  11. nailedny

    nailedny Guest

    Pete
    [bold]
    Well, it did work. I downloaded the above. Killed all non working ASPI layers, installed force 1.8, rebooted and rechecked. Found 2 working ASPI layers and 2 n/a. Still the same message. ASPI layers not installed properly. One or more components have been replaced with older versions of software. I have a Plextor 712A and went to the website and downloaded the latest firmware. I am using G04 media. Iget error messages in both Nero 6 and dvddecrypter. I did have a successful burn using a verbatim last night after I killed all ASPI layers. This morning I tried it again using the G04 and another error in decrypter. I am running windows xp.
    Anything else I can try?
    Thanks
     
  12. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    Sounds like a "Dodgy" DVD Decrypter. Dump that "Puppy" and load this one up with the new settings, the special ScubaPete settings (Lol)


    Let's check your DVD Decrypter's settings. First, it should be version 3.5.1.0. Go to "Tools", "Settings", set everything to "Default". Then in the "General" tab change, "Removal Method" from "Normal" to "Aggressive", in "File Mode", "tick" Remove IFO/BUP PUO's." For ripping in the "ISO, Read Mode", "tick" "Remove IFO/BUP PUO's" there also. in the "CSS" tab, under "CSS Cracking Method", choose "Brute Force ~> I/O Key Exchange" and "On Failure" choose "Yes". . IMPORTANT: In the "I / O" tab, in the bottom right, "tick" the box which says, "Ignore read errors". This is an excellent setting for dealing with lightly scratched discs which may cause ripping problems.

    OK, Here it is - http://www.dvddecrypter.com/

    Cheers,

    Pete

     
  13. nailedny

    nailedny Guest

    Thanks Pete!! I will give it a whirl. I did dump my decrypter and downloaded a new one before I wrote you this am. I tried another burn with my g04 media and error again this morning. Put in a verbatium and that worked fine. I will do the settings thing. I thought it might be a bad batch of the G04's so I called Meritline and I am returning the dvd's for replacements. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
    Thanks again!!
     
  14. ScubaPete

    ScubaPete Senior member

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    You may be right if the Verbatims work -

    Let me know if the "new" G04's were the problem- I'd like to keep up on any problems in the media area -

    Happy Holidays,

    Pete


     

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