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DIY Projector Replacement Lamp

Discussion in 'Televisions' started by LiqdPlumr, Feb 1, 2006.

  1. LiqdPlumr

    LiqdPlumr Member

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    I have had an InFocus LP120 projector for just over a yar and the lamp has burned out. I've tried twice with two different companies to order a new lamp. Each time I received an email a few weeks later stating that they could not fill my order. (Most likely out of stock.)

    In the interest of science and saving money, I've decided to try making my own replacement lamp. I went to Home Depot and bought a 120v 100W Philips Halogen bulb. Everything fits together fine, the bulb is set up to run off of the projector's power supply. When I press the power button on the projector, the lamp lights and slowly gets brighter as the countdown from 10 progresses. However, when the timer reaches 7, the bulb turns off and the LCD on top of the unit reads "Retrying...Wait". It does this five times and then tells me that the "Lamp would not strike."

    I assume that I am using the wrong bulb type, voltage, or wattage. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?
    Thanks in advance,
    Skylar
     
  2. calhounm

    calhounm Guest

    sounds like maybe a voltage issue I wouldn't think it would be heat related however the lamp may not can handle what the projector is putting it through.
     
  3. eolhc

    eolhc Member

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    I would say there are some electronic signals telling the projector that something is up with the lamp. These would have to be bypassed to use a "custom/diy lamp".

    there's some info here which might be useful: http://www.stereo3d.com/discus/messages/21/2324.html?1080477918

    and a quote from one of the posts
    Beware the voltages/current inside the projector are dangerous
     
  4. Stinky_1

    Stinky_1 Guest

    I suspect the original lamp was a metal halide type. They use a preheat element that gets the gas hot enough to "strike" or turn on. That is why there is that warm up period. When the lamp does fire they should notice a quick spike in current draw followed by a DROP in current. Thats because once the gas fires up the current to keep it going will be MUCH less. But the ignitor circuit should break free.

    SO when you plug the regular lamp in it thinks thats the ignitor circuit going. ANd is looking for a drop in current after that.

    at least thats my guess
     

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