Does anyone know a way to simply burn from dvd to avi ? (even if it suffers a little loss in quality) I want to backup a documentary, and I've tryed decrypter but it seems to complicated.
@ bobright : your a junior member , as such please refrain from multiposting in the forum.If you have posted wrong PM a mod to get it changed. As to your question have you tried a guide for decryter? If the answer is yes just continue with this thread and start telling us where you are having trouble.The dvd decrypter whizzes will see this post and eventually you will get help. In the sofware section of AD have a look at these guides: DivX and XviD · Convert DVD-movies to AC3 DivX using Gordian Knot · Copy your DVD into DivX format - Guide for 4:3 movies · Copy your DVD into DivX5 format - Guide for 16:9 anamorphic movies · Copy your DVD to XviD with AC3 surround sound · Extract AC3 audio from AVI file · Rip subtitles with SubRip · VirtualDub: Joining AVI files · VirtualDub: Splitting AVI files andmerr
sorry about that andmerr, will do next time. =) on the guide ive read a little on it - but im just not to fond of the iso files. it starts burning as an iso. file - but later turns into a dvd. file? it wont be multiple ones right - (the whole movie will be on that one file?) also how hard would it be if wanted to make two copys, i need to make two - this is just a documentary so i doubt it will be copy protected how ive heard people mentioning...
have you seen a program that is actually called dvd2avi, that would probably be better for you and its pretty easy to run another copy off after you have made one disc. Heres a link to the download site for you.See how you go if you have probs .Just repost and people will endeavour to help you out http://www.divx-digest.com/software/dvd2avi.html andmerr
im giving decrypter a shot. im about to write - but i was wondering if you/anyone can give me a heads up... it pulled up a .iso & a .mds - wich one should i go with?
yes, i just went with the iso. and boy was i impressed with it. this thing is soo fast - and you can just feel its error free - so smooth. quality wise - awesome! are isos the only type or file you can write? if it supported all files the thing would be untouchable
dvd decrypter can do most image files. Ummmmmmmmmmmmmm.i'll post the deal with it but i also burn .bin files with it and youcan do movies as well as games etc. BIN/CUE images are CD-Images that come in both a .bin and .cue file. The .cue file just stores information on the bin file for the burning software. This CD Image type is one of the most used today and is very reliable. Try the Afterdawn BIN/CUE FAQ here. 1) What is a .BIN? What is a .CUE? What is an .ISO The .BIN / .CUE CD image format was made popular by the CDRWin software. Afterwards many programs have started supporting or partially supporting it, including: Nero, BlindWrite, CloneCD, FireBurner. The .CUE file contains the track layout information, while the .BIN file holds the actual data. .ISO is also a CD image format, but is sometimes used for 'ISO9660 format' (standard, recognized by all applications) and sometimes for unique Easy CD ISO format. 2) I have download .BIN&.CUE/.ISO files - what to do with them? You can burn them to a CD-R or a CD-RW with: -Alcohol 120% - My favourite, excellent software, easy and yet very advanced (burns ISO, BIN/CUE, CCD, CDI, BWT files!): http://cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_tools/alcohol120.cfm - BlindWrite - easy to use: http://www.cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_applications/blindwrite_suite.cfm - FireBurner - also very good, a single .EXE file! http://www.cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_applications/fireburner.cfm - BurnAtOnce - A handy and FREE tool for burning .bin/.cue/.iso. Easy to use! http://www.afterdawn.com/software/cdr_software/cdr_applications/burnatonce.cfm - Nero - many of you have this, but it can't handle all image files: http://www.cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_applications/nero.cfm - CDRWin - This is the original BIN/CUE software: http://www.cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_applications/cdrwin.cfm You can also mount image files as virtual CD-ROM drives using Alcohol - http://cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_tools/alcohol120.cfm Daemon Tools - http://www.cd-rw.org/software/cdr_software/cdr_tools/daemon_tools.cfm There are also several softwares you can use to exploit & manipulate BIN/CUE files in various ways: CDMage - http://www.geocities.com/cdmage/ IsoBuster - http://www.smart-projects.net/isobuster/ 3) I have a .BIN file but no .CUE? .CUE can be made with just Notepad. A typical Playstation(One or 2) .CUE file looks like this: FILE "image-name.BIN" BINARY TRACK 1 MODE2/2352 INDEX 1 00:00:00 A typical PC CD-ROM .CUE looks like this: FILE "image-name.BIN" BINARY TRACK 01 MODE1/2352 INDEX 01 00:00:00 "image-name.BIN" being the name of the image file (IWDII.BIN, CIV3.BIN and so on...) Notice the difference of the track mode - PC-ROMs being Mode 1, Playstations CDs Mode 2 and (Super)Video CDs are also MODE2/2352. 4) How do I make .BIN/.CUE files? CDRWin or the BIN/CUE format is not ideal for distributing. BlindWrite suite and CloneCD perform a lot better in this purpose and can also handle various copy protections. Both of these softwares can also create .CUE files for increased compatibility 5) I have a .BIN & .CUE, but my CD writing software can't locate the .BIN file? Edit the .CUE file with Notepad (or similar) and verify that the FILE "C:\path\image.bin" matches the location of your image file 6) My image file is IMAGE.BIN.EXE and I can't rename it! Read here http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/23982 7) Sector sizes of CD image files (by Aldaco12) When you talk about images must think on SECTORS not on DATA SIZE. The rules are: 1)A standard 74 min CD is made by 333,000 sectors. 2) Each sector is 2352 bytes big, and contains 2048 bytes of PC (MODE1)Data, 2336 bytes of PSX/VCD (MODE2) Data or 2352 bytes of AUDIO. 3) The difference between secor size and data content are the Headers info and the Error Correction Codes, that are big for Data (high precision required), small for VCD (standard for video) and none for audio. 4)If you extract data in RAW format (standard for creating images) you always extract 2352 bytes per sector, not 2048/2336/2352 bytes depending on data type (basically, you extract the whole sector). This fact has two main consequences: a) You can record data at very high speed (40x) without losing information, but if you try to do the same with PSX or Audio you get unredable CD (for PSX) od audio CD with lots of clicks because there are not error correction codes (and error are more likely to occur if you record at high speed. b) On a 74 min CD you can fit very large RAW images,up to 333,000 x 2352 = 783,216,000 bytes (747 Mb). This should be the upper limit for a RAW image created from a 74 min CD. Remember that if you store standard data (backup files), you can burn only 333,000 x 2048 = 681,984,000 bytes (the well known 650 MB limit). Please note that an image size is ALWAYS a multple of 2352 bytes (you extract SECTORS), if extracted in RAW mode. UPDATE 13.10.2002: Added FAQs 5 and 6 UPDATE 24.10.2002: Added BurnAtOnce UPDATE 28.10.2002: Added Alcohol 120% UPDATE 29.10.2002: Brief ISO comment UPDATE 17.01.2003: Added Aldaco12's sector size post. Cleaned the thread
[bold] ANOTHER FINE PRESENTATION BY SCUBAPETE PRODUCTIONS:[/bold] By working with this guide you'll be able to determine if you have any "damaged files" as DVD Decrypter will show them to you. If it's just a "doggy" DVD, the following will see you through - When you have a "touchy" DVD and want to back it up perfectly, follow this ScubaPete "mini- guide". You'll also want to keep this handy should you ever want to copy an episodel disc, as in a TV series type DVD. Are we ready ? Kweeeel - To begin with, let's create a folder for your HD backup. This is the place on your HD where DVD Decrypter and DVD Shrink will work on your movie files and where DVD Decrypter can pick them up to burn to disc. Try to put it someplace where you won't forget it (i.e. C:\ All My DVD Work\"Dumb and Dumber Meet the Parents Out for a Kill get Eaten Alive"). Next download DVD Decrypter - Here's the link for the newest DVD Decrypter - http://www.dvddecrypter.com/ Got it ? Neato, now lets rip this "puppy" - Under "Mode" select "ISO" then "tick" "Read". Lets "untick" "Verify", this will lessen errors. Where it says, "source", you'll put either your DVD-ROM drive OR the location on your HD where your DL resides. Lastly, where it says "Destination", select the folder we just made where we can work on our project. By doing this, we keep everything on the disc EXACTLY as it is including size. When DVD Decrypter is finished we'll need to reset it for its writing phase. Well Alrighty then, under "Mode" select "ISO", then choose "Write". Where it says, "Source", you can leave that blank as DVD Decrypter will find the location of your backed up DVD file automatically. Lastly, where it says "Destination", select the drive where your burner resides. Feel free to close DVD Decrypter now as DVD Shrink will open it when it needs it. Next let's download DVD Shrink, version 3.2. Here's the link for the newest DVD Shrink - http://www.dvdshrink.org/ Outstanding ! Open it and click "Edit", then click "Preferences" on this page we're going to select "DVD Target Size" as "Custom" and set the size between "4260" and "4300MB" - we do this to make sure that we don't write too close to the edge of the disc. Then under the "File I/O" tab un-tick "Enable burning with Nero" then click "OK" "File" then select "Open Disc Image". Allow DVD Shrink to rip the ISO image. Now you can place your original DVD in your DVD-ROM drive and a DVD blank in your burner's drive (If you have two drives). If you only have the one drive, put your original in that drive now. When the time comes for you to put in your blank in either the drive door will open OR a message will appear. As for your DVD blank media, THIS IS IMPORTANT. Poor quality DVD blanks are responsible for a host of copying errors and hence, failures. Look for a thread dealing with backup media where we'll discuss DVD media in depth. But for now, PLEASE acquire some of the following. Recommended media for use with this ScubaPete mini-guide. Quality media would be Sony, TDK, Ritek G04, Verbatim "DataLife", Verbatim DataLife Plus, Ridata or any media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO", Taiyo Yuden's and generally, almost any discs manufactured by Mitsubishi are excellent bets. - This might be a good time to use a DVD RW. We won't use them regularly because for 1, many older DVD players don't play them and 2, they cost too much (Lol). We want to use them now because if we make a mistake, it won't cost us a disc. When we get our steps down we'll then switch to our single-write media. With DVD Shrink open, look to your right and under the "Compression" tab you'll see the word "Video" under that you'll see a pull down box that currently says "Automatic". Now, on your left you'll see "DVD Structure", that's where you'll see your DVD parts, "Menu", "Main Movie", "Extras" and sometimes "Unreferenced Material". By clicking on the "Extras", you can go back to your right and click that pull down arrow and you'll see "Still Image" OR "Still Picture". By clicking on "Still Picture" you can compress the "Extras" down to almost nothing, thereby allowing your "Main Movie" more room (less compression) thereby improving your picture. You can do the same with your "Unreferenced Material" to gain still more room for your "Main Movie". To top it all off, uncheck all the languages in both the "Extras" and "Un referenced Materials" and uncheck those foreign languages like Solarian Moon Mingle OR Klingon Basin Yak you won't use that are in the Main Movie, gaining even more room for your DVD without touching your menus. ) Finally, select "Backup". Take just a second and under "Target Device" go to "Select backup target " once there, select "ISO Image File and burn with DVD Decrypter". Now, under "Quality Settings, "tick" "Compress video with high quality adaptive error compensation" there you may adjust quality enhancements. Practicing with the settings can produce even better end products. For a no-frills DVD's like "There's something about Mary" I like "Maximum Smoothness" BUT for DVD's with a lot of special effects, I use the "Maximum Sharpness" setting. That's for me, you'll have to decide what you like If all the boxes are "grayed out" that's OK, it means your DVD is small enough that little will be lost from the original. While we're there and if you have the time to do a really nice backup, "tick" "Perform deep analysis before backup to improve quality". It may take a few hours BUT for an outstanding job, it's worth it Finally, where it says "Select target image file", browse till you find your created folder for your backup It will save this final ISO image right beside your other work, then click "Save". That's it ! Click "OK" and DVD Shrink burns that ISO image to your HD. It then opens DVD Decrypter and has it burn the ISO image to your waiting blank DVD. Don't use your PC for anything while it's working. After all this work let's not mess it up by stealing resources away from our project. * There have been issues where playing your DVD on your burner may result in errors during processing :-( When you're looking for a guide with a light side, shop ScubaPete ) Enjoy your backup and Let me know how you made out - Cheers, Pete PS Yea, I know, it's not such a "mini-guide" (Lol)BUT it is a good one ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The “old man” Pete (ö¿ô) Compaq 8000, Pent IV CPU 2.84GHz, 1024MB RAM, 520GB HD. Pioneer 107, 8X R/W , Nec R/W ND-1300A, JLMS DVD ROM. 128MB GeForce4 TI 4200, O/S XP This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. September 2004 @ 18:53 ScubaPete AfterDawn Addict 21. September 2004 @ 21:36 Report an offensive post swadewade, We're not using ISO Buster we're using DVD Decrypter. Under "Tools" select "Settings" then click the "ISO Read Mode" tab. When you're there "tick" "Remove PUO's" and try again. When you say you got to 91% then "Timed out", did you bother at all to hit "Retry" ? Timing out isn't very unusual. I just did Pumpkinhead and I timed out at 44%. I probably hit the Retry button 30 times, gaining a few percent each time to get over the bad spots on the disc BUT when I finished I could burn an error free disc and copy from the same. Try again -
wow, what you can do is endless... on the decrypter, i was watching my documentary and on certain parts i noticed blurry - box like images. =( what do you think could've been the problem? ( i burned at 4 or 6, nothing to high)
yeah, im gonna try burning it at a slower speed. you think that might of been a factor? anyway, thanks for your insight on this billy bob
