Thank you. I have corrected that for future reference. If someone ever sends me some Guinness for that I'll share it with ya.
Thanks, I tried burning another one and it came out crap again. But I do recall the speed was set to Maximum. I will try it again at slowest speed possible. But how about just using plain ole single layer Verbatim? Any recommended burn speed for those?
Burn single-layer anything at 4x speed, DLs at 2.4 speed. You don't want to go too slow as that can be as bad as going too fast. Some recorders (and maybe media) just can't handle slow speeds well.
Got it -- 4 and 2, which begs the question: Why are they selling 16X blank DVD's if we shouldnt be burning at that speed? And do you know, its hard to find blank 8X let alone 4x media. Everything has gone 16.
Burn Speeds: If you have a 16x burner and 16x media, it is recommended you burn them at 8x. For Dual Layer, to be safe, burn at 2.4x. Use only Verbatim Dual Layer if you want the best results. Generally speaking this is the rule of thumb: Burn at 1/2 the media's rated speed for your burner, or 4x whichever is faster. Actually, burning 16x media at 4x isn't recommended UNLESS your burner won't support burning it at 16x. If it DOES support 16x burning, then burn at 8x for best results. Dunker: PM me for an address to send the Guinness! Just kidding Dunker, I don't even drink. Only coffee. Lot's of coffee. The stronger the better. :0
Ok, I have a rated 16x burner, so I should burn my SL at 8X, right? I was told earlier I should burn at the slowest speed possible, so I have been using my 16X Verbatim media (since I cant hardly find anything but that) and burning at 4x. Appears to be coming out ok, but takes a bit longer. So what say you all? 8 or 4x with 16x media? Also, plan to go to Best Buy tomorrow since they have Sony DL on sale and buy some. In light of your comments on only using Verbatim DL, I am now in a quandry. Need some help here: Sony or no Sony for the DL? I was told by someone early on in this forum that Sony was on the approved list of media to buy, along with Verbatim, Maxell and a couple of others. So should I be considering one type for SL and only Verbatim or another type for DL? Also, does anyone have any good internet source to buy the "acceptable" DL dics in bulk at a good price?
The going advice is, for single-layer media, to burn at 1/2 the maximum burn speed of the media or drive, whichever is less, meaning 16x media in a 16x drive can give you up to 8x burn speed. The problem is that I've seen enough complaints and PIE/PIF comparisons (these are on-disc error correction numbers which are usually used to indicate the quality of a burn) to suggest that while 8x is very safe, 4x is still somewhat safer, if you don't mind the difference in burn speed. Since the practical difference (in my experience) really isn't all that much, and since people seem to prefer nice rules-of-thumb, I just say 4x speed for SL and 2.4x for DL. As for your question about why 16x discs are produced at all, it's all about marketing. When 16x discs came out, many if not most people didn't even have hard drives that could keep up with the DVD burner, so you couldn't GET 16x or even 8x in some cases, even if you had 16x drives and discs. 18x drives and discs are just coming on the market in hopes of selling more DVD burners and newer media. But 16x and 18x really runs up against hard limits of what can practically be done with the existing technology. And I think this has a little to do with why the burn quality at those speeds is a little more iffy.
Thanks again, Dunker, for the excellent advice. 1/2 the rated speed. Got it. I think I will continue to burn at 4x for both SL and DL. You didnt mention anything about the brand of media. I went and bought Sony DL's today. The are rated at 2.4X. Since the slowest I can burn is 4x, guess that will have to do, right? Finally, ever run across any internet spots to buy media in bulk at a resasonable price? Have seen some Vebatim at Supermediastore.com for as little at $1.75 each, depending on speed. At www.shop4tech.com their brand is Matrix that, if one is to believe their customer testimonials, are just super discs to use. And then there was some that say "printable". That opens up a whole new thread of discussion: Is there some type of special printer to print onto these disc"s? I have stopped printing labels since they screwed up the playback, as you may recall in earlier forum discussions. So what's the deal with printable discs?
You're welcome. Read my sig line on media though. That question gets asked so often I just got lazy and put it there. I'm not kidding, I'd have twice as many posts on Afterdawn if I answered every media-related question, and I'd be an official "Afterdawn Addict". The Sony's are okay if it says Made in Japan on the label. There's the "Made in Japan rule": Check the label each time. If it says Made in Japan, it's probably good. The one exception is Verbatim, which is also good. This applies to CDs as well as DVDS though Verbatim CDs are not so good. Matrix looks to be garbage anyway based on the Videohelp.com Media database - like most "brands", they use many suppliers, most disreputable. Only two of the suppliers I found are of a reputable name (TYG02 = Taiyo Yuden, Ricohjpn = RICOH, but) these are almost certainly counterfeit and junk. Shop4tech has a terrible reputation anyway. http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia.p...rder=Name&hits=50&search=Search+or+List+Media
Thanks again, as always. I went to the shown advertisement on DVD printers and looked at all the Taiyo Yuden DVDs. Couldnt find any listed that were DVD+R, they were all DVD-R. Does Taiyo make +R's? Maybe just Media Depot doesnt carry them? So if I go this route, looks like I will have to order my discs online and invest in an Epson DVD printer.
I do all my shopping at Supermediastore.com or Meritline.com. TY's are widely-counterfeited, but SMS has the real deal and the best prices. Sometimes Meritline too. TY make +Rs, though they're quite a bit more expensive than -Rs, though some people say +R is theoretically better anyway. They have inkjet printables for use with an Epson. Look for the 8x (YUDEN00T02 code for the +R) offerings. 8x speed discs, whether +R or -R, are considered the best. I'd get the premium though most folks say the Valueline is just is good. The problem is, the valueline usually ships in tape wrap and doesn't always have free shipping included, so you're not saving anything. I get 8x DVD-R (TYG02) silver-tops for about 30 cents apiece in quantities of 100, with free shipping. These come in the cake box too so they don't get dinged up like the valueline that comes in the tape wrap. The +R inkjet printable works out to about 46 cents a disc. TY DVD-R 8x TYG02 silver lacquer top 200 pack free shipping http://www.supermediastore.com/taiyo-yuden-8x-dvd-r-silver-paper-sleeves-combo-200-pack.html TY DVD+R 8X silver INKJET PRINTABLE http://www.supermediastore.com/taiyo-yuden-8x-dvd-plus-r-4-7gb-silver-inkjet-50-disc-spindle.html
Thanks, Dunker. I will check these out and decide if I will launch off into writeable DVD's and invest in a printer.
Most. You might have trouble with really old players (maybe before 2000?) but not on anything modern. Even then, by booktyping DVD+Rs to DVD-ROM (which most drives will do, as long as your burning software does its part) then that may help.
Thanks to all in the forum who have been so patient in answering all my questions regarding dual layer and burning and playback problems, as well as type of media to use. Just check the several discussions that have taken place. I must admit I had a lot of problems but I have stopped putting labels on my DVD's and that has helped tremendously. This was never mentioned in all the discussion in the early stages. That should be made to novices, such as I, early on. Secondly, I really had a breakthru when a friend familar with AnyDVD told me to check and see if my Roxio Drag to Disc was in my tray. It was and that was causing major conflicts with being able to use AnyDVD correctly. I now can go back to burning at 16x, instead of dropping down to 8 or even 4X. I still have stayed with Verbatim; still not comfortable with some of the others. Just thought I would give an update to all you good people out there. Again, thanks for all your recommendations, suggestions and time.
Well everyone, I am back with a new problem now. Seems that when I am backing up extra long movies, like 196m or even 240m, Clone2 will copy it fine using DL. When its time to burn it, a screen comes up and essentially says the target is to large to fit on the disk. And this after I have tried both features of either using it to copy everything, including titles (58%) or just the movie (100%). Since it didnt work using a DL disk at 58% I wasted the 35min copying time then started again using DL and copying only the movie (where it said it was 100%). After 35 min of copying I put in the blank DL disc and I get the same screen: The target disc is not big enough for the movie. Well if it wasnt big enough why did it say 100%? Couldnt it have told me that before I spent an hour trying both versions to no avail? Well to top it all off, I went to an older version of DVDShrink I had laying around. After doing its thing for 2 hrs and 15m, the copy came out fine on a non-DL Disc. I usually can always depend on DVDShrink in a pinch So what gives here with Clone2?
try clonecd..i use it, it works great WITH DUAL LAYER DISKS.. CloneCD is the perfect tool to make backup copies of your music and data CDs, regardless of copy protection. CloneCD's award-winning user interface allows you to copy almost any CD in just a few mouse clicks. Since the release of 5.0, CloneCD is not only able to copy CDs but also all DVD formats, such as DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD+R, DVD+RW, DVD+R Dual Layer and DVD-RAM. The movies are copied 1:1 and therefore not modified (compressed). Note that to copy movie DVDs you also require AnyDVD. link http://www.slysoft.com/en/download.html CloneCD also works with other formats such as ISO and UDF files and copies CDs/DVDs with the new SafeDisc 3 Copy Protection System. CloneCD allows you to create perfect 1:1 copies of your valuable original compact discs. Should your copy-protected music CD not play in your car audio, the backup created by CloneCD will.
Try burning a DL with Nero or, better yet, Imgburn. Rip a DVD-9 using DVD-Decrypter in ISO mode (use AnyDVD if necessary to bypass advanced protections). Then select the MDS file produced with IMGburn and let IMGBurn rip. This method tends to produce the best, most consistent results, it seems.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Dunker I downloaded IMGBURN and only have AnyDVD and Clone2. Do I have to buy/download other programs as well such as DVD-Decrypter to use IMGBurn? And why doesnt Clone2 handle the DL's?
Again, thanks everyone for your advise. Couldn't understand IMGBurn to be successful. Have a copy of Nero but havent installed it yet. I believe CloneDVD should handle the problem for me. Here is what I did yesterday when trying to copy THE GUARDIAN, 139m plus 45m with all the extras (and this has happened several times before with long-length movies, such as SPARTACUS, and others). The step-by-step process was as follows using CloneDVD after running it through AnyDVD: 1st Screen – Title Configuration: Changed it to DVD+/-RL, from DVD-5. This made it 100% versus 47% with DVD-5. 2nd Screen – Audio Settings: Only English menus selected & no Director’s comments. Showed 100%. 3rd Screen – Output Method: Made sure DVD Writer was selected. Speed @ max; Temp Dir – clonedvd temp; Delete temp video files after writing. After 32 minutes it stated: Created DVD Files – 100%. Asked for a recordable media be placed in drive D so it could write to that media. Put in a Verbatim DVD+RDL, 8X, 8.5 GB Go Data blank Disc. CloneDVD2 window opened up saying: Writing to video media not successful. Source data too large. This writer is not capable of writing the source data as required. To write this DVD files, please use the “Copy DVD Titles” or “Clone DVE” option from the Start Screen. When going back to the 1st or CloneDVD2 screen, there was in the Title Configuration window the following: directory not found: D/Video-TS, D sutilld [wString]. QUESTIONS : 1. How can the source data be too large since I am using a DL disc? 2. Why did it take 32 min of writing time before it could tell me that it wouldn’t fit on the DL Disc? 3. Why is there a DL option if the DL doesn’t work? 4. How can I solve this problem so that future long-length discs will copy on DL? 5. When it states "This writer is not capable of writing...." I presume it is referring to the Clone DVD writer and not the DVD writer in my computer, which is an Emprex DRW10161M 16x DVD+R/-R/4x double layer/internal writer which I bought in Sept 2005. Note: When CloneDVD2 failed me I went back to a 5 year old version of DVDShrink that I got as shareware and after 2 ½ hours it copied THE GUARDIAN fine on a single layer Verbatim disc with virtually no visual distortion. I would think that since I am paying for CloneDVD2 it should at least be able to match those results without all this hassle. Any help on solving this problem would be appreciated. Thank you.
