Intel vs. AMD

A decent cooler for overclocking? Go with something simple and big like the Zalman CNPS9700, Scythe Ninja or Thermalright. Arctic Silver V is obviously a must.

 

Wow you just brought the price down on my build

the zalman is 60.00
scythe ninja 45.00
thermalright ultra 120 extreme
47.oo
You just knocked bout 70 to 80 bucks off my build cool

 

Hehe yeah TECs are overpriced and unnecessary imho.

 

No changes? Order made... now I wait...

*does the wiggly puppy dance and squeals with glee*

I expect Thursday or Friday. Nice cool Friday night in the basement to build and run stability tests

Edit: Made changes to sig... and fixed a fillrate bug that was doubling the space below the text

I got meself a decent part time job that can put that $1200 back in my account in no-time. Good luck with that build

 

i know you have other opinions about my build any other suggestions

 

Nah it's just I don't a few of the ways things work in the US, I won't go into any more detail.
Overall that's a pretty neat system, not seen that case before, but it's just another Chieftec Dragon clone.

 

kool bro just picking everyones brain and doing research to get the best system for my budget

 

@marsey99

actually, that depends on WHO you ask to determine which is the "better" of the two...i happen to be on the OTHER side of the fence and feel that the P5N32-e SLI board with the true 680i chipset is SUPERIOR to the P5N32-E sli plus that YOU feel is better.

my reasoning for this is based squarely on the fact that i have used both the 680i chipset (currently am right now as a matter of fact for MY OWN builds) as well as the 650i chipset (which i built for a friend that was on a budget), the Asus "hybrid" which is the P5N32-E Sli [bold] PLUS [/bold] that you happen to feel is "better" is not a true 680i, it's actually a 650i northbridge coupled with a 590 southbridge.

i suppose it really depends on what a person wants out of their system, overclocking-wise the 680i chipset "takes the cake" over that of the 650i quite handily, not saying that the 650i is a slouch, it's not; but for the hardcore OC'in enthusiast, if given a choice, it's a no brainer as to which chipset they should choose in the Nvidia 600 series of mobos.

if someone wants a decent "balance" of sorts between stability and feature set and MORE IMPORTANTLY, [bold] BUDGET [/bold], then the P5N32-E Sli Plus would be a good choice, but if money spent is NOT the issue here, then i would highly recommend the Asus P5N32-E SLi over that of it's hybrid brother, the P5N32-E Sli Plus

while i personally feel these "hybrids" are a good compromise for those on a budget, and are "perfect" mobos for people who are just getting into the Nvidia 600 series chipset to become familiar with them and how they work, a true overclocking enthusiast would never consider them to "save a few bucks" and skimp on the mobo. the true x16 SLI feature is nice on this hybrid board, but if one considers never going SLI to begin with, it would be more prudent to get a solid Intel 965/975 mobo with a more mature chipset.

i've had my fair share of problems being an early adopter of the 680i chipset, but as time progresses, my issues are becoming few and far between; past the initial growing pains of becoming familiar with a brand new chipset and figuring out all the new features that come with it, it's been a pleasure to push my OC'in far past my prior limitations by my Intel 975 chipset.

anyways, i just disagree with your opinion that the Asus P5N32-E Sli Plus is the "better" of the two aforementioned Asus boards. if it were me, i would take the P5N32-E Sli (non-plus) anyday over the "plus" model.

but all of this babble is irrelevant as the original question had been answered and the poster went w/ the Evga mobo and the E6600 LOL (good decision i might add, that's how my CURRENT setup is configured)

 

Scratch the TEC cooler in favor of a Zalman 9700, the newer Zalman thermal compound is good stuff and easier to apply than Arctic Silver. I'd reconsider the case PSU purchase. I'm not big on Ultra power supplies. I've used some of the cases, but used Thermaltake fans. PSUs are often overlooked, but they need to deliver a good stable and well regulated supply. I've seen nothing on your list a good 620W Corsair couldn't handle. The Thermaltake and OCZ supplies are good as well. Corsair Dominator PC2-6200 C3 RAM, if too expensive for you, work your way back from there. For the classic look the Praetorian case is nice. If you like lights get one of the Cooler Master or Thermaltakes with a window. LOL I got one of those. For any IDE drives, get round cables. Often I add a combination floppy - card reader, easy to read memory cards and occasionally a lingering floppy flops up, LOL.

I forgot, Kivory covered the boards for you.

 

Sam,
what is the pci latency timer? and what should it be set on?
default 64.

 

Sorry, never played with it, I can only suggest to leave it at default.

 

Hey Sam,

Couldn't help but notice, what's that CPU cooler in your sig? Freezer what? ROFL!! Or is the Freezer 7 Pro only good for a 66% OC? LOL!!!

I was talking to Colin, the manager at Arctic Silver the other day, and strange as it seems he doesn't recomend Arctic silver 5 for CPU coolers! He recomends Arctic Silver Ceramique because the Arctic Silver 5 is electricly conductive and the Ceramique isn't! Seems if you go overboard in applying the AS5, it can burn things out on the motherboard! Honest, I swear to God that's what he said! He recomends the AS5 for chipset coolers! Imagine that!

Happy Computering,
theone

 

One of my PCs has Arctic silver on the chip cooler, what's so unusual about that?
I didn't list the Arctic as the best cooler because although it's very good, for the absolute best performance, the bigger coolers fare slightly better.

 

sammorris,

Nothing! I use it for that as well, but it does seem strange that he doesn't recomend it for CPU coolers. I mean just about everyone here uses it for that purpose. I always thought that's what it was made for to begin with, that's all.

Russ

 

yeah, I doubt such a popular TIM would be electrically conductive, granted thermal & electrical conductivity often go hand in hand, but if that were the case, then it would be so easy to disturb the CPU with static, surely?

 

They should merely put a warning on the AS not to use too much or fry some circuits. I've been using it for a long time and haven't found better. It used to beat the heck out of the thermal compound that came with most coolers. The only thing I'll use besides the Silver is the newer compound the comes with the Zalmans.

 

Sam,

It absolutely floored me when he said that, but he says that if too much is applied it can short things out and fry a motherboard. Apparently they get a lot of complaints about just that!

And yes, static electricity can destroy any microprocessor in a heartbeat, which is why it's best to wear an anti-static strap when handling anything inside the computer. We had quite a number of problems with static electricity when Dental chairs and x-rays switched from mechanical to microprocessor controls. Most offices at that time had all that nice looking nylon carpeting, so lots of static electricity. It got so bad for a while that most techs didn't want to work on them which was rediculous. The Siemens reps would request me all the time because I wasn't afraid of them because I knew that all you had to do was wear the anti static strap. My company territory was S. Texas at the time and they had me flying all over the US and Canada to do jobs that any competent tech should have been able to handle! Siemens even supplied the straps for free and the dumbos still wouldn't wear them!

Russ

 

LOL have to confess I don't use an anti-static strap, but then again where would I attach it? Unless they do one that's several metres, it wouldn't reach the unpainted section of the radiator (I here that's the only decent place), I hardly think a case when the PSU isn't attached to the mains is sufficient.

 

There's such a thing as personal responsibility, even with building PCs. It's hard to apply an idiot test for selling products to home builders. But I don't think it's good business saying not to use a good product because some inept builders can't follow instructions.

 

It is. Put on the strap and connect to the case. You're not supposed to be working in the case with the PSU hooked to the power. So what good would the strap be if not hooked to the case with the power off. Plus you should be using an anti static mat for the work surbace.