Intel vs. AMD

Friday 28th July Conroe UK update

Ebuyer: E6300 OEM - 28 in stock @ £135.06, X6800 Retail- 3 in stock @ £776.39 - others not listed
Savastore: Not listed on website
Overclockers: E6300 OEM - In stock @ £135.07, X6800 Retail - in stock @ £782.55, E6700 OEM due on 31st July @ £399.44 - E6300Ret, E6400Ret, E6600Ret, E6700Ret "arriving in august" at £152.69, £182.07, £252.57 and £411.19 respectively.
MicroDirect: E6300 OEM in stock @ £137.04, X6800 Retail out of stock @ £685.22
Dabs: E6300 OEM "due in 3-4 days" @ £124.98, E6600 Retail "due in 1-2 weeks" @ £219.99, E6300Ret, E6400Ret, E6700Ret, X6800Ret all "due in 3-4 weeks" @ £134.99, £154,99, £374.98 and £699.99 respectively.
Misco: E6300, E6400, E6600 and E6700 (all retail) all "usually in 5 days" at £140.99, £170.36, £234.99 and £387.74 respectively.
Komplett: E6300, E6400, E6600 and E6700 all "expected on 21st August" - 50,20,172 and 19 being stocked respectively at £125, £150, £220.01 and £355.
Scan: E6300, E6400, E6600, E6700, X6800 retail all "pre-order" at £151.52, £182, £252.57, £411.19 and £774.27 respectively. E6300OEM available at £135.07
PCNextDay:None listed


So what does that all mean?

Well, so far Ebuyer, Overclockers, Micro Direct and Scan can sell you a basic E6300 OEM forabout £135.
Ebuyer and Overclockers are the only two shops that can sell you an X6800 Retail, and they cost about £780, some of the not-in-stock shops offer them for around £700.
ALL of the other CPUs, including the retail version of the E6300 aren't available at any store yet, but pricing looks to be:

E6300 OEM £135
E6300 Retail £150
E6400 Retail £180
E6600 Retail £250
E6700 Retail £400
X6800 Retail £700-£800

 

i seriously would never take the 128mb out it makes the tiniest difference + i have no problems with my computer i have never jad one all of the games i tried ran smooth as so there is no problem, and if you'se were know everything then y havent any of use answered my Q's in the radeon 9200 se problems thread?

 

Well you've never had a problem, so how can we answer it?



On a more serious note, I personally only comb theforums every now and again, most of the time I just partake in these threads and look when I get an email update. However, I shall go there now and see what I can do.

 

Dazilia wheres your 9200 thread located? Chris

 

It's now at the front of the Other PC hardware forums, I've been posting in it.

 

@ Sammorris Thanks and hell of a answer you gave there your hard to keep up with. Chris

 

Dazila,
I reiterate,
Your memory configuration is slowing down your system!!

 

Yep, damn right it is! The monitor's also suspect I should think. Amazingly my 1999 monitor does 1280x1024, but not very many do.

Edit: I don't still use it by the way, that was just for reference, I have a Viewsonic G90f+ now, still CRT, but 2048x1536, and for a 19" that looks gorgeous!

 

Yeah i have my Hanns-G in 1280x1024 and it does look a lot roomier.. lol
i was running in 1226 by 728 i think... and the LCD itself makes my old CRT look plane ugly... and the DVI.. it is heaven... i love it.. i should be ordering my video card soon prob tomorrow...

 

Heres what I use to test my PSU's.........ROFL!!!!!!!!



As you can see a 500watt "Acme" brand psu @50 degrees centigrade can only push out just over 200 watts.
A good 510 watt psu only drops 10 watts at the same temp.
So Dazila,as you can see,your 150watt psu allowing for temp and component deterioration due to age is probably only good for a paperweight.Didn't realize the modular psu's suffer from extra resistance issues, although when you think about it adding extra plugs/sockets to any electrical components is going to cause extra resistance.

 

crowy,

How did you get a picture of my shop?? He! He!

Don't be picking on all the Acmes now. I have one in my D940 that's rated at 500 Watts. It folds it's tent at 513 Watts and shuts down! Not all Acmes are poor quality!

Happy Computering,
theone

 

@theonejrs,
That's true there are good"ACME" PSU's out there.
Unfortunately there are also some fairly ordinary one's too.

 

I believe Rosewill makes a 500W that's quite good for the price. My friend ordered it, shut down at 502W, not bad... here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817182016

My friend's has a very nice looking metallic finish as well. Only if my Liberty looked like that one.

 

@ Estuansis this is from the specs for that psu: MTBF 100k hours at max. load, normal line and 25°C.

To properly compare power supplies, wattage claims must state the maximum ambient temperature for continuous, full-load operation. Unfortunately for the consumer, this information is usually withheld, opening the door for manufacturers to exaggerate their wattage claims. They do so by assuming an unrealistic ambient temp of only 25°C (77°F), even though the actual internal power supply temp is at least 40°C (104°F). Since the proper full-load rating is 15°C higher for home use and 25°C higher for industrial use, these power supplies produce 33%-50% less power than their advertised ratings.
I'm not saying this isn't a good PSU but: 500w minus 33%= 335watts.
500w minus 50% (for industrial use)= 250 watts.Then it doesn't look so good...Having said that,provided you don't exceed 335watts for 100 thousand hours and temps don't exceed 40 degrees celcius it will be fine!!!So expect 335 watts continuous use 24/7 for 100 thousand hours or just over 11 years!!!Now it looks good again!
The life of an electronic device is directly related to its operating temperature. Each 10°C (18°F) temperature rise reduces component life by 50%*. Conversely, each 10°C (18°F) temperature reduction increases component life by 100%. Therefore, it is recommended that computer components be kept as cool as possible (within an acceptable noise level) for maximum reliability, longevity, and return on investment.

* Based on the Arrhenius equation, which says that time to failure is a function of e-Ea/kT where Ea = activation energy of the failure mechanism being accelerated, k = Boltzmann's constant, and T = absolute temperature.

Don't ask me who the F**K Arrhenius is or was by the way!!

......Forget that last little bit have a look here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arrhenius_equation

 

To simplify everything when buying a PSU:
1.Use the psu calculator thats been posted several times before to work out your requirements.(Here it is for the lazy one's

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp

2.Add 30% more wattage to whatever the psu calculator tells you.

3.Go here and read through carefully and you should end up with a quality psu to suit your needs!

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=136602

 

And if your still in doubt just get one of these and you'll never have to worry again!!



I particularly like the independent test report for each individual PSU.
This thing reeks of quality.
Notice it's tested at 50 degrees celcius not 25.

 

crowy,

That formula only comes into play at a certain temperature, usually about 134F which is the design limit safe operating temperature for most electronics these days. Operating below that temperature will cause only normal degrading of the electronics. In the specifications for most things electronic, they list operating temps. Usually it's 32 to 134F. Power supplies may be different but it should still be listed somewhere on it. As long as those temps are not exceeded, the device should last a long time.

Happy Computering,
theone

 

@theonejrs,
Manufacturers of processors and other computer components specify a maximum operating temperature for their products. Most devices are not certified to function properly beyond 50°C-80°C (122°F-176°F). However, in a loaded PC with standard cooling, operating temperatures can easily exceed the limits. The result can be memory errors, hard disk read-write errors, faulty video, and other problems not commonly recognized as heat related.

 

@theonejrs,

Well if your still thinking about getting the artic freezer for your Prescott,you may want to get it now. Newegg has them on sale for $20.00! I picked one up along with some A/S-5 for a grand total of $33.41 shipped. Now I guess I'll have to wait until the model for my Amd setup is on sale again and grab one of those too. (that sale ended today)

 

boxwrench,

And that would be? Let me know and I'll keep an eye out. I'm spending more time on the computer anyway. When I do the Dental stuff it's a break from computers. When I do a couple of Customer Builds and a bunch of repairs, there is no break. I'm working on one while on line with mine. I'm always testing drives and things. As I stock new drives, I "Burn them in", so to speak by using them for a time in my computer. I've had a few drive failures, but my customer's haven't had any! It pays off. I have 1 customer I've built 11 computers for, in the last 3 years. A lot of my office customers have bought their home computers from me.

Now I suspect I'm gonna be building some decent game machines! People are starting to tell me that they want to play game as well as do work. I've been holding them off, waiting for the price cuts. Well, the price cuts are here! Looks like I'm finally going to get to build some mid to high end AMDs. I'm finally going to learn about tweaking 64x2s. Won't that be fun! LOL

As far as the Arctic goes, I like the heck out of it. I've caught some static from someone on the Hounds that says my MB sensors are bad. Being that the Prescott is down, waiting for a whacking big thermaltake "Thunderblade" 120mm for the case, I pulled the Zalman and put it back in my dual core. I tried every temp setting imaginible and they are the same as I had recorded previously at the same ambient temp. I put the Arctic bach in it and the idle temp drops 6 to 8C. Same with the case temps! Got the room up to 32C and checked the temps at idle. Got 33/42, with the 33 being the CPU. I've been told many times that that's impossible, that there's something wrong with my MB sensors.

Today I found the "why"! I poked all over this thing with my thermal probe and I happened to be looking at the Arctic through the side window and it came to me! The Zalman is all copper. Copper is a wonderful conducter of heat, but it doesn't cool very well. Aluminum does! Think about it, every air conditioner in the world has an aluminum condenser! Turn the computer off and put your hand on the Zalman and you can feel lots of heat. Not real hot but warm to the touch. Do the same thing with the Arctic and it's much cooler to the touch. All the huge copper fins in the Zalman draws the heat away from the CPU but contributes to the overall case temperature simply because it's there long enough to matter. Copper doesn't cool very well!

With the Arctic it's got the side case fan blowing directly behind the intake for the cooler fan and over the memory. Add to that my A/C blows that direction and I've got a 53cfm 120 0n the back of the case. At 32C I get 33/43 at idle and 48/42 loaded. My thoery is that the copper hear pipes draw the heat away from the processor and the aluminum fins cool the copper heat pipes.

Whatever it is, The top Arctics will be in all my builds in the future I clicked the air on about 10 mins ago and I'm now at 26/36. I'm satisfied!

Happy Computering,
theone