Is bose overrated?

@sd72667

Yeah, it really is; I'm just waiting to see what xXx has to say about it!!LOL!!

 

well if my opinion is to you so important, so piece of literature which i read was all altogether such, which told more than i knew.

 

Actually, I read a bit of that white paper about the driver design, and I have to say it is pretty weak. Quite frankly the author of this paper has no real concept of driver design and implimentation.

I have never known a speaker that could be "underpowered" by too small of a magnet. Outside of creating a field of magnetism for the energized coil to travel in, it is worthless. The only way to truely enhance the field power is through differant magentic materials (such as the "neo" magnets), not through increasing the size of the magnet. By increasing the size of the magnet we actually increase the length of the gap, and the stray flux that causes harmonic distortions in the driver and shortened Bl curves (Bl is an indicator of driver strength, and a "shortened curve" implies that the motor strength becomes weaker at the peak driver excursion). To counter this we use larger top plates which mean we need longer coils to sit in the gap. Basically big magnets are only really good for subwoofer applications where these harmonics are less audible and longer strokes are to be achieved.

Driver efficiency is what matters more than "magnet size". This can be achieved through lighter cone materials (ie. paper cones), tighter gaps, and enclosure design.

But the need to focus on important aspects of the driver design are ignored. Most importantly for realism, Le or driver inductance. Lower Le numbers indicate the ability of the coil to more rapidly absorb the signal and react to the signal. This creates an illusion of a transparent driver, since quick reaction times tend to reduce coloration.

I have never heard anyone prove that a 2.5 inch driver cannot be used for >18KHz drivers. I have heard XBL2 enabled 3.25 inch drivers extend beyond audible range, totally neutral, very flat impedance, and almost zero audible breakup nodes.

However, as a speaker connoisseur, and a speaker builder, I have to say BOSE sucks. They use basic misdirection to fill the room with a confused, muddled stage with zero image depth. Even Tru-Surround uses better driver misdirection techniques, with a more realistic presentation. I find the "dual-cube" design lends to hard wall refraction and heavy frequency spikes. Bose systems cross over their "acoustimass" unit too high. Sure, it readily handles the midbass region, but it takes a directional frequency range, and places it with a non-directional range, in a non-dierctional cabinet to be placed in an invisible location. Anybody can stick a subwoofer in a corner and have it disappear, but it is because subwoofers are non-directional. At roughly 60Hz in room we can begin to discern directionality, which destroys the "spacious" feeling we are to percieve if we stick that, plus an octave or 2, in a corner. Suddenly our stage shrinks to the location of the "acoustimass" module, and any hope of a deep image is crushed by the uni-dimensional output from a single speaker.

 

That was a great post sandt38!!

 

TY. I am a total noob at burning, so I am here to learn. But I saw a little home theater section here and thought maybe I can chip in to help in an area I know a little bit about.

 

@sandt38

Well,
I know a tad about DVD burning; I've been jumping around those forums for quite a while.....but now I've got my own method down and rarely ever need help with it anymore