And some additional, possibly relevant, data. One of the reasons I thought this might be Comcast-related is that my 'messages' page 1 data shows that my unit appears to be puzzled about what its 'host' channel is. Over the last week it has sometimes been one of our PBS stations and now it appears to have settled on the FOX station. I cannot help but wonder if they (Comcast/Seattle area) rolled out something new on July 4 (which is when the first error/problem occurred).
I did the 'hard reset' and now I am really stuck. (Long story short -- I am in an 'infinite loop' of the blinking 12:00 (in the 'off' state) and the LONG "Please Wait" start-up that never quite makes it (ending in the "Error has occurred" message). What is the "Factory Reset" sequence for the E95? Thanks.
Hi all, In the UK and can't dub (either high speed or normal speed) from HDD to DVD; we are a university and have 3 x of these machines in my section, now with constant self check errors. Similar bad response from Panasonic who claimed we have over-used the boxes and the power source was cooked. Interestingly, 2 x zener diodes and an IC chip are being replaced in one unit's power unit (other still awating prognosis). It would seem (?) that the voltage stabilising unit is running 'free'; ie not keeping the ac voltage within prescribed tolerance; hence only getting problems when using both HDD to DVD, ie maximum current draw. Any comments, advice most welocme from sunny Britain. Clivo.
Hello Everyone, I also have a Panasonic DMR-E85h with the U99 error. My unot is about 16 months old and when I first got the U99 error, I contacted Panasonic to see if they would do anything under warranty, but they decided that I had to foot the bill on my own. I had tried to get the unit to do a firmware update but it would not try to read the CD with the file on it, always going to the U99 error. I was told by Panasonic to take to an authorized repair center, so I looked up one close to me and called the place. I had a good conversation with the reapir tech, who assured me that he had "ways" of getting the unit to take the new firmware that I could not do. So I dropped the unit off and waited 3 weeks (calling each week to get a status). After the 3rd week I was told that I had a defective harddrive and that it would cost $300 to repair. I felt that this was not correct and decided to pick the unit up. I ordered and recieved a new harddrive (same make & model as the factory one). I installed it and not only would it not try to read the CD, but now the unit will not even try to open the DVD tray (great!). One thing I noticed was that the PS cooling fan was not running at all. I was at least able to get the unit to go into diagnostic mode, but still always ran home to Mama with finally going into the U99 error mode. Well I finally got the unit to re-initialize to factory default settings which now has the PS cooling fan running, but after I trun the unit on (or even try to go into diagnotic mode), shows "TEST * L1" and then goes into U99 error after about a minute. Any ideas on what to try next? Bruce
On Resetting the Panasonics: I posted a detailed analysis of reset procedures a while back, but it's swollowed up in mearly fifty (!) pages of discussion, so I'll repost it for the newbies. I had to dig it out of my old e-mails this week because my E-85H which has been reliable for nearly a year (except for periods of TVGOS "upgrades"), as long as I kept following my anti-crash protocol to the letter (I'll repost that later), suddenly decided to stop loading any programming. I waited until it was *all* gone (to use up the delayed recordings I had in place), and then did a "Hard Reset" (see my next post) and, after filling in the information, I "forced" a time-correction by manually setting the time to 1:55 p.m., turning the unit off, and waiting for the time to change on the front panel (about ten minutes). I then powered the unit back up (time corrections do not take effect internally until the next power-on cycle), checked for provider info (not there) and then powered down for six hours (if you wait 24 like they say--and you need to select your provider, if there is more than one in your area--you then have to wait another day for programming to load). I short-circuit this by checking sooner. After six hours had passed, I powered it back on, selected the proper provider (which had been missing for the past few weeks), and powered it back down for another six hours to get my programming. When I then turned it back on, I had to go through the "modify Channels" screen to turn off the superfluous channels and turn back on the ones it didn't think I needed. I'm now back up and into my third day of fill-in downloads (it only loads days 1,2,3 and 8, of course). My old post will follow. Bob
Reposted: "Why My Panasonic PVRs [Almost] Never Get U99 Errors." Part 1: My 2 Top Tips. Over the last year, I have developed an almost-foolproof system for preventing those nasty "U99 Errors" on my two Panasonic DMR-E85HS and E95HS recorders. I've discussed most of these safeguards on this and other lists over the last year--as well as on my blog at: http://panasonicpvr.blogspot.com/ ...Which I have neglected far too long. First, let me list two *MAJOR* cornerstones of my "System": 1. THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT "FIX" (RECOVERY) STEP, AFTER *ANY* FAILURE: Unplug the unit for *AT LEAST* 30 seconds before powering it back up. This step alone fixes most problems and prevents recurrences if you have taken other repair steps. It works best after either a Soft, Hard, or Factory Reset(*). If you neglect this important step, you might "fix" your problem--but you may not eliminate all of the symptoms or recurring causes. (*) A "Hard Reset" has been discussed here often and is simply holding down ChUp/ChDown until the machine says "BYE" *AND* the red timer light is out, if you have timed recordings set. I did this reset this week and it wiped out all volitile data (but not recordings) and I started over with the "New Machine" screen. A "Factory Reset" is a three-button combination on the FRONT PANEL (*NOT* the remote), that vary from machine to machine and must all be held down at the same time until the machine turns itself *COMPLETELY* off (usually 5-15 seconds). This *should* set the unit back to factory settings, deleting *all* changes, *including* firmware updates. If it is successful, you get the "New Machine" setup screen and you can not do *anything* else until you enter all of the data. [bold][Note for cable box users who want to disable TVGOS: Try setting up as a broadcast RF--no cable, no box--but put everything else in right. Then, search for channels from the setup menu--which will disable TVGOS. To re-enable it, you theoretically have to do a "Factory Reset" (although I haven't tried a "Hard Reset"). Thus, you can now go back into the setup and change to your cable provider and set-top box. TVGOS *should* remain disabled.][/bold] A "Soft Reset" is a technique I got from Panny Support last summer. You simply hold down the power off switch *ON THE UNIT* (not the remote) and keep holding it until the "timer recording scheduled" light goes out on the front panel (5-10 seconds). After *ANY* reset, unplug the unit for *AT LEAST* 30 seconds. Failure to do so may result in recurring symptoms. I have kept both of my units (E-95 nd E-85) practically error-free this last year by: 1) Keeping the DVD drive *empty* when power is off. A recordable DVD in the the drive when a timer-recording powers up the machine, is the second most common cause of "Phantom Recording Errors"--the symptoms of which include showing "Recording" in the guide window box, but not actually turning on the red recording indicator or crating a title in the browser; unreliable recording of back-to-back and manual timer programing; and loss of TVGOS programming download. This is usually fixed by a soft-reset+unplug. 2) *Always* doing a soft-reset+unplug after *any* use of the "Divide Title" feature (the one on the "Edit" menu--not the "Divide Chapter" option of the Chapter editor--that works fine). Although the firmware upgrade fixed the Green Screen errors and the U99 caused by dividing titles, these were just two of the symptoms--the probelem is still there and manifests itself as "Phantom Recordings." If you Use Divide Title, then do the soft-reset+unplug before powering the unit for timer recordings and updates. Remember: You *must* power it all the way up after any reset or update before the changes are fully registered. bob
clivo: There are two major problems that cause most recording failures on Panny DVRs: Heat and bad (or incompatible) media. I can't stress enough the importance of using top-quality media. When a DVD fails, it can wipe out your entire system. I have a specific disk that is guaranteed to wipe out the system information *any time* I try to write to it. I have had three (cheap) DVD-R media in the past that did the same thing. When I switched to good quality (Prodisk and T-Y) media, this stopped and I've had nothing but success with my last 600 DVD-Rs. The DVD-Ram that fails is side B of a Panasionic 9.4, so I doubt the problem was Media quality (although it could have been a defective disk). My guess is, since it was very early in my recorder's life--before I upgraded--it probably was just in the drive when the system crashed and was ruined then. It was also before I did my cooling spacers and when I was doing a *lot* of burning at once. It's possible the unit overheated. Panasonic has a bug in their DVD handler that causes system crashes upon unknown conditions occurring when a DVD (type currently unknown by me) is in the drive. I use all types of media (-RAM, -R, -Video) and I didn't document which was in during what crash, but I know it does it (intermittently, not every time) with DVD-RAM. For instance, I forgot and left a DVD-RAM in overnight and didn't get errors--but was half expecting them when I powered it on in the next morning. Other times I'm not so lucky. If I wait several days, the crash is inevtable. Whenever I miss recording a scheduled program or lose a day's programming download, I look in my drive and almost always find a recordable DVD. This problem is so bad that I have a flap over my power switch that says "Remove DVD!!!" This doesn't help when I use the remote, however. ;P It's also possible that your systems or drives overheated. Make sure that you have *at least* 2" of air space above and below the machine and free flow of air around it (if it's in a cabinet, add a fan). I use Vienna Sausage cans as spacers below and between my units, and thermally-related crases have gone from about two a day to 0 in two years. bob
Here's an analysis of the Gemstar/TVGOS system I sent my cable provider's tech a few months ago while we were trobleshooting the problems caused by the latest TVGOS "Upgrade." Perhaps it will help some of you (and amuse others). Keep in mind, some of my comments are aimed specifically at how *our* local system (mis)behaves and may not match your specific providers: Surviving with TVGOS/Gemstar (but just barely) Most people overlook the fact that programming is downloaded only 3-4 times a day in 3-hour blocks that cannot be interrupted. The unit must be in stand-by mode and NOT RECORDING for the entire download period or the download will fail. If a recording is scheduled--even if the unit is off--that day's download will fail. Here's the skinny on TVGOS. At it's very *BEST* it's a pain. The manuals are vague at best and incomplete, for the most part. They say to turn your unit off for 24 hours before you can use it. If you do, you will find out that you have lousy, if any, channel selection. It needs the first download (usually within 6-12 hours) to download your programming options by zip code. After *that* you have to select which system you are on *AND* fix all of the discrepancies. At this point, you may find some of the channels programmed for three days (and some movies for a week), but you may not. Once you have your line-up selected, you need to tweak the settings in the channel setup screen. Some will be on the wrong channel, some will be turned off and/or missing channel information at all, and a whole lot of useless channels will be turned on (including all of the premium channels, even if you just have extended basic). TVGOS starts to balk downloading at around 50 channels, so turning off all channels you *know* you don't watch (i.e. I kill the Kids', foreign language, and shopping channels for starters) will improve downloads substantially. Next, they search for your information-download channel from the top of the listing down. Move all potential download channels (i.e. PBS and network) to the top of the list. Also, MSNBC or CNNHN may be used for older units as a generic download, and can sometimes be counted on as a backup channel. In our channel-population density area, there are multiple download channels available--not all of which include correct data for our cable system. Having the wrong channel come before the right one could cause corruption and misprogramming of channels--especially on system reset. I use the following order successfully on two units: CNN HN KCBS KNBC KABC KLCS (PBS 58) KCET (PBS 10) KOCE (PBS 8) I've had problems in the past when I had the PBS channels in different orders. This one has worked consistently for months now. OK, now that you've got your line-up correct (or close) you have to turn it off for *another* download period to populate the listings. Download times vary widely, but there appears to be a major one somewhere between midnight and 6 a.m.; another mid-morning; and a minor one mid-to-late afternoon. To download programs, the units must be in STAND-BY mode and *NO RECORDINGS SCHEDULED* during that period. Since the main download happens overnight, it makes the unit virtually useless for recording late-night shows and movies. Downloads last approximately three hours and turning the unit on during one will abort it--irreversibly. Also, not turning the unit off (or ending a programmed recording) until after the download starts will skip that entire download period. I've found that the only way to be *almost* sure of staying current is to turn my unit off by midnight and not allow it on or to record before 7 a.m. Sometimes if I miss the overnight download, I can leave it off all morning and catch one. I've never had a successful update in the afternoon, as far as I can remember. Even when the download works *perfectly*, you are only going to get four days: Today, tomorrow, the next day, and one week from today (i.e. Days 1,2,3 and 8). Then, over the next four days, days 3 and 8 will continue to fill (and days 1 and 2 are updated), until all 8 days have complete programming. Movies and some PBS and sports seem to fill in at random over the blank "No Listing" days. Go figure. Also some channels (BBCA leaps to mind) are remiss in giving updated programming info to TVGOS, so shows may appear at different days/times than scheduled, and episode information may be reported wrong--usually +/- 1 week. Finally, crashing the system will usually crash the guide. Leaving a writable DVD in the recorder (if that model has one) will usually crash the system. Booting up with one in after a crash will often reset all settings to factory defaults. (No programming). Deleting a lot of recordings and/or using Panasonic's "Divide Title" feature will usually hang up the guide within two days, and cause what I call "Phantom Recordings" (i.e. it *looks* like it's recording, but it's not). The best fix for this is to power the unit off using the front panel switch--on my Pannys, that means *holding* the switch down for 5-10 seconds until it also exits the stand-by mode. Then you unplug it for 30 seconds, which allows the capacitors to discharge, volatile memory to clear, and pretty much clears all glitches. If you power it down properly first, this should not lose any of your setup information *if* the machine has no DVD in it and the HDD is selected (not the DVD drive). Power loss while the unit is powered up *or* recording can cause loss of all personalized data--including guide info and schedules (but not saved recordings--nothing short of reformatting seems to do that). I do the POWER-OFF/UNPLUG regimen every time I delete 15 or more files, and every time the unit seems sluggish or starts missing programs. Because of this, my crashes have almost completely disappeared (other than the ones caused by TVGOS screwing with their downloads). Leisure World has lousy power reliability. We average about one outage a month (usually for some kind of repair or construction) in my building. That's why I keep all of my video equipment (and computers) on UPS's. Hope this helps. Save it and pass it on. I have a lot more, but this should be far more than anyone needs at this time. bob
Unlocking DVD Drives and other "Secret" codes... (Thanks to Roger W. Amidon) The following is reposted from Roger's website: http://www.dxcc.com/dmr-e85h.htm Commands To toggle the disk eject from "LOCK" to "UNLOCK": With the unit ON, press and hold "Power" and "Stop" for 5 seconds. [Bobnote: This won't be possible if the unit won't power up, so try the next one:] To eject a disk if the unit won't operate (U99, etc.): With the unit OFF, press and hold "Power", "Stop" and "Channel Up" for 5 seconds. To initialize ALL parameters to factory defaults: With the unit OFF, press "Skip Rev" ( |<< ) and "Time Slip" and "Open/Close" for 5 seconds. To enter "Service Mode": With power off, press "Stop" and "Time Slip" and "Open/Close" for 5 seconds. "SERVICEMODE 00" is displayed. What follows are the more useful commands you can perform. You use the remote to key in a 2 number value. You can usually return back to the "Service Mode" by entering "00". If you get stuck, hold the power key for 10-12 seconds or until the unit shuts off. Try to avoid unplugging the unit while in service mode. In fact, because losing power while writing to either the hard disk or a DVD-R or DVD-RAM can lose everything, I use a small "UPS" (Battery backed-up Power Source) to power my units. This way, if the AC Mains go out, I don't damage anything… Oh, and DO NOT experiment with any number combinations that aren't documented here. If you do, you may wish you hadn't… 00 = Return to Service mode start. 02 = Display Firmware Versions. The display will show the following for 3 seconds each: 1. DVD Region Code (should be Region 1 for USA) 2. Main Firmware Version (0950DL, or something like that) 3. Timer firmware Version (0110DC, or something like that) 4. DVD Drive firmware version (J125, or something like that) 5. ROM checksum (I think) - It should be all zeroes. The ROM checksum will remain. You can get back to Service Mode with 00. 41 = The number of hours the laser in the DVD drive has been active. [Bobnote: This is handy when buying a used or "Open Box" unit.] 51 = All display segments are turned on. Use 00 to exit. 61 = Date the unit was manufactured. YYYYMMDD To exit Service Mode, hold the power key for 10-12 seconds until the unit shuts off.
VideoBob, I have followed your advice from the orignal post (w-a-y back in these 50ish pages) and the Soft Reset procedures you gave us have keep me (E95) out of trouble until recently. What I am now experiencing may indeed be a genuine error (e.g., HD going bad) and I'm due to ship my unit back (I have 3 days left under the seller's extended warranty). But perhaps you can shed some light on what you think I'm experiencing. (My recent writeups begin on p. 48, as "18. July 2006 @ 09:42".) At this point, I can use my unit (say, to dub off any remaining recorded shows) as long as I do not power the unit off. Of course, I have abandoned any notion of getting downloaded programming. So, I can dub; I can record (manually). Things got worse after my 18 July report -- after doing the Hard Reset, now whenever I turn the unit on I get the endless: Error occurred; press enter; then Please Wait; then the long-running 'ticks'; then the Error occurred; press enter; ... (never-ending loop). The only way to get back in operation is to leave the unit unplugged long enough (maybe 12 hrs.) so that it comes back up 'clean' ... and even then it goes through an "Error occurred" loop for one or two cycles before it gets to the point that I can watch TV or access my programs. ~ Keri
If I find I do need to buy a new unit, what is the currently-recommended machine? Today at one of the 'popular electronics retail stores' I was told that the DVRs with hard drives are no longer the way to go (and that they no longer carry this kind of item). It was suggested that I check with what my cable provider will rent to me. That would be Comcast and all they have is a box ($9.95/mo.) that (a) won't let me do any edits to the saved show and (b) won't let me dub to DVD (except through an external burner). Well, boo to that. So what are folks yearning to buy these days??? TIA! Keri
The only viable machine I have seen is one from Toshiba. It has a DVD burner and a 160gb HD. The only electronics store I have seen it in is Best Buy. Price is equal to the E85H when it was somewhat new - around $400-$500. Robert
I still can not find out how to get past where my machine goes into U99's. The DVD tray will not open and there is a CD in it from the service center. I used to be able to get it to go into diagnostic mode but ever since I re-initialized to factory settings, it does the same thing no matter whay commands or how I power it up. It starts by "wait", then about 5-10 seconds of the lines/hash marks moving across the LCD display, then "TEST * L1" shows up on the LCD display for about 45 seconds, then "U99". Some other questions I have about installing the new harddrive. - does it need to be partitioned such as with FDISK? - how is it supposed to be strapped, as Master, or Cable Select? I have tried all combinations, no partitioning with strapped as both Master & Cable Select. Also with DOS partitioning (no format) and both Master & Cable Select. What else can be causing htis thing to go into U99 so quickly? Bruce
Keriah: Re: Your Problem. It sounds like either a scrambled hard disk or defective unit. I would 1) dub all programs I want to keep to DVD, and then 2) reformat the Hard disk. If that doesn't fix it, send it back. If you need a couple of days to do this (hopefully, you have enabled "High-Speed Dubbing"), then call up for an RMA *NOW* and then wait until you are done to send the unit back. The warrany date is when you call for the RMA or Work order number. My next DVR will be a PVR--a computer-based system. My reccomendations for DVRs: *NOTHING* that uses TVGOS/Gemstar OR TiVo. The first, because it simply isn't reliable and, at it very best is a pain in the ass. TiVo, because you can't get a lifetime subscription and I simply refuse to pay over $200/year to use my own equipment. That leaves either computer-based PVRs or one of the ReplayTV-based units. I have four ReplayTV-based DVRs now and love them. One is lifetime free and the other three are $6.95 a month or $300.00/Lifetime each (a year and a half of TiVo unless you rent from your cable provider). Any units based upon the 5xxx-series models are also networkable. You can view programs on one unit from any other unit on the network--even if someone is recording and/or watching something different. You can also schedule or delete programs from anywhere in the world via the Internet. (Changes are updated overnight--not real time). The downside with most ReplayTV-based units is the lack of DVD writing capability (although I *think* there are a few models out there with it). Computer-based PVRs are built from scratch and unusally have both networking (like most ReplayTV units) and DVD editing and writing capability. They usually allow remote programming as well. The guy was an idiot. VCRs are passe' but HDD DVRs are still the norm--that's what the cable companies sell/rent. I wonder just what he thinks DVRs use for storage now? bob
Bruce: Did you try what I suggested earlier to open the drive?: "To eject a disk if the unit won't operate (U99, etc.): With the unit OFF, press and hold "Power", "Stop" and "Channel Up" for 5 seconds." You may need longer. No. In fact partitioning could screw it up. The same as your old drive. Don't bother to try a larger one--it will only see whatever size you originally bought. That's controlled by the motherboard. Defective hardware.
Thanks for the detailed reply, Bob. A couple of things: I'm glad (in an odd kind of way) to hear that you think this is actually hardware-related. Since I can get the record/dub to work (until I power down) I was tempted to keep the unit and try to just use it in this minimalist mode. But if it is actually on its way to death then I'll continue on the route I'm on (return under warranty). Yup, I've been dubbing everything worth keeping off the unit -- just about done with that. (And, yes, I do use high-speed dubbing.) Since the seller's extended warranty expires tomorrow I do have the RMA and form all set to return it. (I won't try reformatting the HD because I am doing the warranty return/exchange.) Of course, if they deem it dead what I'll get is a 'credit' (since they no longer sell the Panny), which means I'll need to buy something (maybe not another DVR/PVR unit) from them. And it also means that I'll be without a capability I've grown VERY used to having here at home. Guess it's back to old VCRing for some while. <s> I agree on the TiVo (pay to use stuff I own). Since I've basically 'turned off' TVGOS for the past few weeks I haven't found life without a 'live' schedule all that bad, which is one reason I had considered keeping this unit in its 'minimal operation' mode. It has actually been a blessing not needing to worry about hitting the window of the next DL! PVR? I don't know anything about that ... need to do some googling. Re. "computer-based" does it make a diff. whether it's Mac or PC? (I'm the former.) A year or so ago I did buy a Formac converter that lets me transfer VCR tapes to my Mac (for edit and DVDing). I think it also lets me get a TV signal directly, but I've not explored that capability. Is that the kind of set-up that a PVR is? When I talked with Comcast about what they offered I came to realize that the two features that I would miss most are (a) ability to *easily* edit (like I can on the Panny) and (b) dub to DVD. The cable-rental boxes don't have either of those capabilities. I will also miss the 1.3x play feature, which lets me actually WATCH the programs I spend time capturing, editing, moving around, etc. (what a concept) I did think it was an odd statement. Based on the reply a couple of messages up on this page I have now found a handful of units on Amazon -- what I assume is the Toshiba unit that was suggested, plus some other manufacturers. But apparently (?) nothing from Panasonic. Pity. Since I have an E85 in Hawaii I was hoping that I would be able to have a single set of things that *I* would have to learn/remember. ~ Keri
Bruce: Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I still can not find out how to get past where my machine goes into U99's. The DVD tray will not open and there is a CD in it from the service center. I used to be able to get it to go into diagnostic mode but ever since I re-initialized to factory settings, it does the same thing no matter whay commands or how I power it up. It starts by "wait", then about 5-10 seconds of the lines/hash marks moving across the LCD display, then "TEST * L1" shows up on the LCD display for about 45 seconds, then "U99". -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Did you try what I suggested earlier to open the drive?: "To eject a disk if the unit won't operate (U99, etc.): With the unit OFF, press and hold "Power", "Stop" and "Channel Up" for 5 seconds." You may need longer. [bold] Bob, I tried the command to open the DVD tray. The command ends up with the LCD showing either "Lock" or "Unlock" depending upon toggling between the last command but the tray does not open.[/bold] Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some other questions I have about installing the new harddrive. - does it need to be partitioned such as with FDISK? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No. In fact partitioning could screw it up. Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - how is it supposed to be strapped, as Master, or Cable Select? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The same as your old drive. Don't bother to try a larger one--it will only see whatever size you originally bought. That's controlled by the motherboard. Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have tried all combinations, no partitioning with strapped as both Master & Cable Select. Also with DOS partitioning (no format) and both Master & Cable Select. What else can be causing htis thing to go into U99 so quickly? Bruce -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Defective hardware. [bold] How can I tell what hardware is defective? I have a new harddrive. Could it be the DVD drive? Any idea of where I can get parts for this thing?[/bold]
There was a time when you could open a CD drive with a straightned paper clip or some other long thin rod. There's a small hole on the faceplate that you insert the rod into and gently push until the tray opens. I'm at work so I can't look at my E85, but maybe the drive in it has that same access hole. This would allow you to get the CD out without powering up the unit.
I Wrote: My next DVR will be a PVR--a computer-based system. Kerie replied: PVR? I don't know anything about that ... need to do some googling. Re. "computer-based" does it make a diff. whether it's Mac or PC? (I'm the former.) A year or so ago I did buy a Formac converter that lets me transfer VCR tapes to my Mac (for edit and DVDing). I think it also lets me get a TV signal directly, but I've not explored that capability. Is that the kind of set-up that a PVR is? I Respond: Yep. In it's simplest form a Personal Video Recorder has a video input card (usually with a tuner), some software, and some storage (HDD, DVD, etc.). Most Macs have all but the tuner nowadays, I think and videoinput/tuners are available via USB for both PCs and Macs. Most come with software to download scedules from the Internet and manage your recordings. Macs usually come with editing capability. PCs can usually take more cards, and many cards are available with multiple tuners. There's lots of software available for both systems. Most PVRs are home-grown, nowadays, but that will soon change. I'm going to use an old PC box with a good Dual-HDTV tuner and at least four Large-capacity HDDs in removable racks. They will be interchangeable with the HDDs in my ReplayTV units, as there is freeware to dub directly from their disks. I'll probably use the free Linux-based MythTV software. That way, if I want to clone a few systems to pay for mine, I don't have to buy any software--including the OS. bob
Bruce: What I usually use in this situation is a good DVM and Ocilloscope, A set of schematics, a pile of tested spare parts, and about 30 years of troubleshooting experience. Lacking all but the latter nowadays, I'd toss it into the growing pile of dead TiVos in the corner and buy or build another. They simply aren't worth the time and frustration it takes to fool with them. It could be. That's the easiest test. Pull it out and plug it into a PC. Turn on the power and push the button. Use your current DVD or CD cable, as most CD/DVDs now require a signal to enable opening. My money's on the power supply or motherboard, however. There are factory repair centers--but by the time you pay them to fix it, a new one is cheaper--if it's out of warranty. Have you checked? Parts are usually much more expensive that the complete unit. One board could be alnmost as much as the whole box. In the '80s, I used to buy brand new printers for about $10,000.00 each and part them out for about $60,000.00. I buy most of my stuff off of e-bay. The ones that don't work are cheap enough to keep for spare parts for others I have bought/may buy. Most of my junk pile are TiVos in need of modem repair. I think lightning takes out a lot of them. When I have enough piled up to justify hunting down a schematic, I'll fix them all at once. No parts for the Pannys, though. I do ave the advantage of having two, so If one breaks, I can swap parts between them one at a time and see if the symptoms change. When they do, I've found the bad part. bob
