Next year analog TV goes away and only digital will work. Will the TV-Guide service that is used for the DVR schedule also go away as it is sent only over analog signals? Is digital TV the end of a major feature of our DVRs?
drsparc, Over-the-air broadcast of analog TV signals will go away. This is a huge spectrum $$ grab by the Fed - but that's beside the point. So, if you're using a TV Antenna, yes, you'll no longer receive analog TV signals. However, my understanding is that the same will not be true of Cable providers. They will (or perhaps must?) continue to provide analog channels in addition to their digital offerings. If anyone knows for a fact otherwise, I'd be happy to read it.
Hi all, I haven`t posted for a while as I have been busy at work sorting out more problems with panasonic recorders and plasmas screens. Just to put you All straight--don`t think that upgrading your firmware will act as a cure all for problems with these units--it will not!!!. The main reason for firmware upgrade files are for making the units compatable with the faster disks that are available now and nothing else.I must admit that there are some bugs in the original firmware that came embedded in the units but most of the posts I read seem to err on the side of ""if in dought then upgrade firmware" this is useless to cure problems people are having.I have been fixing these recorders for the last 3 years on a daily basis and the posts I read on this forum A. make me laugh sometimes and B, make me cringe at other times..The one with the capacitors tipped over on their sides insulated with god knows what sends shivers through my spine. In the U.K. we have a standard called BEAB approved and as such the equipment originally conforms to this standard--this ensures electrical safety for both fire and anti-shock--clearly the post I saw regarding the caps tipped over on their sides would not conform to the original safety standard that this equipment was built to and leaves the family and other householders open to the risk of fire.If you cannot get the original parts to fix these problems then for your own sake send the unit into a COMPETANT repairer and have the job done correctly and to the original safety standards that Panasonic designed.Using these bodges is the same as having a smoke detector installed in your house and not fitting the battery We engineers have been trained at some considerable cost to repair faulty units in a timely and most importantly safe manner--all this training and experience costs money, this reflects in our charges. Here in the U.K. people cannot mess with gas fitments unless they are C.O.R.G.I. registered (criminal offence) perhaps its time to have the same with electronic engineers. Repairman
OK I just started having problems with my Panasonic DMR-E85H it will only show PLEASE WAIT on the lcd screen the unit will not do anything else. I need major help cause I have shows on the HD that I have yet watched and I don't want to loose them. I also cannot be with out it due to the fact it is recording somethig almost every day for me. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED... I'M ABOUT TO PULL MY HAIR OUT.
Jgreaves, You are probably experiencing either the power supply problem (see REPAIRMAN posts), or the problem with the bad capacitors that has been mentioned several times over the past several pages (e.g. Atilla posts). Start reading at around page 61 of this thread. See this great link: http://vassfamily.net/projects/DMRE85H/dmre85h.html
FFoldwoman, my expectation is you will learn that you recorded some of those shows at a format incompatible with high speed recording. You may have had a glitch or power outage that somehow reset some program to the default normal setting. When you reset it it allow high speed recording, your shows recorded before you reset it, will be normal only. I have two or three on my hard drive that way. I will record them to disk at normal speed sometime when I can actually sit and watch the film at the same time, methinks. RE" Please Wait glitch, I suggest unplugging to force some kind of reset. REad this thread and the manual, there are ways around it even if you don't want to do some capacitor changes etc. Repairman. Thanks for your concerns. However, I once had a janitor tell me I could not walk across a dry lunchroom floor because he was the only one trained and authorized to officially declare that it was now safe to walk across the floor. I told him I would take responsibility for my actions. He later whined that it was unsafe for me to recklessly choose to walk across the floor that an untrained eye like mine assumed was now "dry". We yanks are daredevils, are we not? Heheh.
I think I see a key cause of the Please Wait Self Check Glitch. I used to think it was a function of just cheaper media. I mainly buy mine now only at Staples or other reputable companies. However, even a good disk can choke out the system if you put it in too soon. I had adopted a new plan about a week ago, to install a fresh new disk in the tray whenever it was open to allow me to remove a disk I had just recorded. For me, this is not a good idea. When I have the tray opened to remove my freshly finalized disk, the system is set to DVD rather than HDD, right? Well, when the tray closed in DVD mode with a blank disk, it triggers a self check, please wait warning most of the time! Best bet, always switch back to HDD, and then click the dubbing function, BEFORE you put in the new blank disk. Much less trouble this way. One of the self checks even knocked out my tv guide for a couple of days this week with the errant misstep. K
I hope I never have to live in a country that forces people to call an electrician when a lightbulb needs changing. The vassfamily guy did a good job getting his recorder fixed. As long as he doesn't use it while taking a bath, the risk of shock and fire are zero.
eternal "Please Wait" message - same problem as with mine - fixed for $8 by replacing the capacitors (capacitors $3, solder guy $5) - see my message about it on page 69 of this thread.
The Vassfamily guy did such a good repair--I don`t think so--he could not even use the correct tempreature capacitors.The ones shown on that so good post were 85degree and Panasonic originals are rated at 105 degree. If the originals lasted a couple of years then these replacements will not last 12 months, they are wrong temp rated,are axial constructed(should be radial) and the wrong type to put into a power supply.As regards light bulbs, are you STILL capable of buying such things in other countries ?--we use mainly low energy,high efficiency and very long lasting discharge lamps in the U.K. Now to get back to the subject of safety, the post with the caps I showed to two of my friends who are fellow engineers and they were shocked at what they saw--they have both seen the after effects of people`s mods to equipment usually after the local fire service have been to put the blaze out and the one posted should not be fixed as it was shown. Please don`t put your lives at risk by doing a bodge like this--bear in mind that all the time your Panasonic is plugged into the mains supply then these incorrect type and fitted caps are sitting there waiting to go up in smoke,even when the power switch is off , most ,if not all of this power supply is working REPAIRMAN
To Repair, or NOT to repair, that is the question! Well, if Repairman's concerns are valid, sounds like it would be wise to use 105 degree radial capacitors if they are available. I guess I would have to ask our engineer friend, however, why there were no fires when the 105 volt capacitors failed on so many different machines. Furthermore, I think the Vass capacitors have already been around more than a year. Can someone enlighten me on the ecological risks of the gas filled tubes now being promoted over traditional light bulbs? Oh, and forward that to our friend Repairman lest he perish from the pollution, heheh.
Furryface, I showed my best friend Repairman's post about fire, etc. He is a 25+ year veteran Electronics Engineer for a major Television Network in the US. Keep in mind, he repairs much more complicated units than the Panasonic DMR we are discussing-- every single day. Here's what he said when I asked his opinion on this capacitor debate: "Truth be known, even if the absolute wrong capacitors were put in, the most that would happen is that they would pop and stink up the place. No flames. No house burned down. Every DVR, VCR, RADIO, (etc.) made has a little glass enveloped piece of metal in it to cut power to the unit in the event of excessive current draw. It is called a FUSE! Post that!" This is the same person I have asked to repair my machine. (I'll be sure to update you all in case my house burns down.) Thanks to everyone who actually helped with the repair info!
If anyone is having a hard time finding the proper caps to fix the panasonic power supply, I was able to find some good replacements at hsc is santa clara, ca. They had: 16v 680uf 105 degree radial (slightly taller than what was oem on the pcb) 25v 1000uf 105 degree radial (the next size up taller and diamater) Both caps fit fine. The 25v still fit flat on the pcb(or nearly flat). Thats what I put in mine. I would have to open mine up to confirm its in there flat. The caps were pretty cheap(less than $.50 each). Not sure if HSC does mail order for all their inventory(the online site on lists a few items). But if you really can't find them locally, I will offer to pick some up and mail them to you for cost.
When I went to HSC a few months ago they had the exact value with a higher voltage rating. They are also 105C so REPAIRMAN need not worry I bought 4 there and here's what they look like: They measure fine in a capacitance meter. How they perform in-circuit is unknown. From what I've read, only an ESR meter can show whether an electrolytic capacitor is good. Visual inspections or measuring the capacitance out-of-circuit aren't enough. Anyway, I never installed the new caps as the ones in my E85 seem to work fine. This will be a busy weekend for the E85 as it's Oscar time and I look forward to recording the whole thing for later watching and fast-forwarding through all the dull parts (which usually works out to all but 20 minutes of the show
I'M CONFUSED - PLEASE DO NOT EVER GIVE A TEMPERATURE NUMBER WITHOUT A 'C' OR 'F' AFTER IT FOR CENTIGRADE OR FAHRENHEIT! (aimed at everyone, not just Repairman - who I am very grateful to have on this site) - ANYWAY THE RADIO SHACK CAPACITOR #272-1032 IS MAX RATED 85F ACCORDING TO THEIR WEBSITE - IF THE PANASONIC RATING IS 105C THEN THE RADIO SHACK ITEM (THAT I PUT IN MY MACHINE!) IS WAAAAAY UNDER SPEC!!!! (YES THIS IS ALL CAPS - I'M CONCERNED!) (ps - more than one BIG project has been ruined by failing to precisely specify between centigrade/fahrenheit, inches/centimeters, milligrams/micrograms, etc. - please always specify)
The Post by --- Magnum19 Your friend is, --- 100% RIGHT ON The Posts by --- REPAIRMAN Are off the wall. and a post referring to light bulbs was just a point. Not an issue Your Quote bear in mind that all the time your Panasonic is plugged into the mains supply then these incorrect type and fitted caps are sitting there waiting to go up in smoke,even when the power switch is off , most ,if not all of this power supply is working ------------------------------------------------------------------ That is not so --- And keep in mind that a certified or licensed person does not necessarily know very much about whatever they are certified for, but that they were able to pass a so called test and had the funds required to be certified The Post by --- LCoop Quote #272-1032 IS MAX RATED 85F ACCORDING TO THEIR WEBSITE ------------------------------------------------------ I had not seen an electronic part rated in F [Fahrenheit] and checked, as this value made no sense, only some 13 degree above house temp, According to the Radio Shack Web Site The #272- 1032 --- 35WVDC operating temperature: --40 to +85°C That’s 185 degree F. Most part failure such as that mentioned is due to a unit not being given proper ventilation, or the part itself was defective to begin with
thanks LCSHG thats reassuring - that radio shack capacitor - yes now I see on the "front page", down a little, it does say -40 to +85 centigrade - I missed that and on the tech specs tab which is what i clicked on, it says that IN FAHRENHEIT - !!!!! - radio shack website screwup.
LCoop It sounds as the unit was repaired OK The only real difference between the Axial or Radial units are the location of the – and + leads The axial, from both ends. The Radial, from one end. The only constraint in using the axial [mainly height] would be space available. Where a radial lead unit is not available a Axial unit will often fit ok if an extra length of lead is soldered on, usually the – end, and bent over so as the leads fit the circuit board. If the leads need to be bent to fit, that’s ok. If not sure of proper insulation, a piece of shrink wrap can be slid over the lead prior to soldering to the main board. Or just wrap the entire unit with electrical tape On a power supply the uf capacity of a unit is not that critical. .If you have to vary, opt for a larger value that is as close as possible.. Edit Just because the original unit indicates 105 c, does not mean that is a true value.
Hi all, I thought i`d get flamed for my last post,so I must reply to all you opinions out there. 1. Radial capacitors are fitted so that if the electrolyte dries up as they do in use(due to heat) then the gas that is produced is vented out of the top of the capacitor which is what you see when the top has bulged and that grotty brown stuff ouses out.Axial caps do not have that safety valve. 2. Temp rating at 105deg C is the max rating for continuous use. In these recorders due to the insane design ,they are fitted in the smallest of spaces possible with vey poor ventilation. I have scrapped units before now because of scorch marks on the pcb`s making the board material conductive. 3. Type of cap is important as I have been on the receiving end of badly fitted and incorrect caps in power supplies and I`ve got the scars to proove it 4. 25 years in the trade is a short time--(try 40 years) I have been in the industry repairing everything from old type projection sets with mains derived EHT circuits(Lethal if you get stuck across one)through valved transmission equipment for piped tv networks, valved colour tv`s to the modern monsters (up to 103 inch Plasmas.) I have seen a lot and repaired a lot more! 5. As regards fuses,I have seen an awfull amount of units in my time as an engineer where someone has fitted the wrong fuses and its come to light when the unit is in for repair.The ones that don`t show up only do so when the fire brigade have been called. It happened this week in my home town, a bodged repair by the owner caused a fire and the seat of the blaze was a Video recorder that the owner had fitted a new fuse to.So relying on the fuse may not be wise! 6 The caps shown in the post of (I think Furry Face) are correct. The ones in the Vass family are not. The ones in the Vass post are the same type of cheap caps I see fitted to the crappy stuff sold by local supermarkets at stupidly cheap prices that seem to be assembled in China. I have repaired some of them when the cheap caps have leaked-caused the power supply to go unstable and pushed the EHT up over 32kv before the power supply has gone BANG 7 Please note cap temps are usually quoted in deg centigrade in uk we have forgotten about deg Farenheit--sorry Regards Repairman
All, Been surprised and pleased at the relative absence of flaming on this thread - given its page length and longevity. And let's face it, there have been a lot of opinions, and suppositions, and hypotheses expressed on the various problems we've all encountered - including my own. So, let's not start flaming now. I have a CS background, but have had years of HW/SW integration experience (e.g. missiles, sensors, weapons systems). Still, I'm not a guy comfortable with probing a circuit board. I value Repairman's input and all of your input. In the end, each of us is ultimately responsible for weighing input and deciding a course of action when necessary. I, for one, don't want Repairman or anyone else to go away mad and cease contributing. And I really appreciate the great pics posted at http://vassfamily.net/projects/DMRE85H/dmre85h.html It's now documented exactly where the capacitors are located in case I need - or want - to replace them. And I now have each side of a debate at my disposal on which ones to use. This is the awesome aspect of the Internet at which I regularly marvel. This would have been impossible a mere 20 years ago. Also, if I really want to invest the time to become an expert on the physics of capacitors, I'm sure I can bring the Internet to bear on that goal as well. We're all lucky bastards! ;-)
