mhudson7, i just opened up my dvp 642 and i found where the c316 is located. it's capicator is much bigger than the ones surrounding it. is this the "buldging" you were speaking of? anyways, i dont know anything about soldering, so i wouldnt know what to do. but i read about alot of things, and i guess its the only option. so am i right so far?
back again. anyways mhudson, is this c316 really my problem? my player still works, turns on, plays audio cd's, etc. it doesnt have a red blinking light like the article from videohelp.com states (i'll post there message below mine). so is this really my problem? my problem again is that whenever i put a dvd disc, any type, burned, real, vcd, etc ... anything besides a cdr, than it will say "NO DISC." So, i dont know if this solution is for me, or is it? let me know ASAP, before i do anything else. again i found the c316 capicator and it's significantly BIGGER than the capicators surrounding it, which could be what you meant by "buldging." anyways, let me know what you think. here's the article from videohelp.com: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die, and you have a blinking red power button. This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did (and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away. Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it. Long version: 1. Unplug everything 2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover. 3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor (looks like a little drum with a '+' on the top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be leaking some brown fluid as well. 4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says 'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits... 5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's simply what others have reported success with. I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to find one that looks somewhat similar to the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2. 6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed one from a friend at work...this is NOT my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty! 7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that board out. Unplug the two cables connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding it down, and, using some pliers, hold down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the board down and slide the board up. I flipped this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in place. 8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the board where the C316 capacitor is attached. Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one shorter leg which is the negative side. It will likely be marked this way as well. 9. One side of the capacitor should have a '-' on it. Note which side this is. You may not be able to see it until it is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it. 10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron across the joints you identified as belonging to C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free. This is a little tricky to hold the iron, the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn yourself! Again, note which side is negative and which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is positive. There will likely be some solder left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two holes or you will short out the connection. 11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and the capacitor down to the board. 12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small mound of solder joining each leg to the metal of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's run to some other points, you'll need to do some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an expert at this. If you need a little more solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed your solder into the hot spot until a small amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then remove the solder. Look at the other solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look. 13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder. 14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables. 15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in. Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie.
No - the symptoms don't match so it's probably not the capacitor. And I guess you're certain it's not the DVDs!? It must be something else. Sorry, I haven't got a clue. Keep Google-ing and keep us posted.
Could a defective c316 capacitor cause playback of DVD to stop during playback. This happens alot with my DVP642/17. Also some (but not all) of my DivX files have audio in and out problems. While watching the DivX movie the audio will go out for a few seconds and then come back, the video stays in sync when this happens. I find this strange because I also have a RJTECH (RJ-250PDVX) portable DivX/DVD Player and these same disks will play flawlessly in this player but not in my DVP642.
i'm certain its not the dvd discs. i use taiyo yuden discs and they've been working for the last 6 months. i've heard alot of the players stop working after 6 months. what i find weird is that i received my dvp 642/37 on may 17th. my player stopped working and giving a no disc error on my dvd's on november 17th. weird eh? yea, i thought so too. haha, anyways i'm sure its not the discs. i find it weird that my player would all of a sudden say NO DISC to all my dvd discs, but not my cd discs. i've cleaned my player using a cd/dvd cleaner disc and that didn't help either. i opened up the player only to find one lens. so why would my cdr/rw's work and not my dvdr/rw's? strange. anyone have any solutions, tips, etc?
Just got the dvp642/37. I put five 704x396 divx avi files on one dvd-r disc. It plays great (the box and site does not mention dvd-r but it works fine). When I burn any file that is 480x360 the sound is out of sync or does not play. When I burn any file that is 640x480 its fine too. This player saves sooo much time, not having to encode the avi's to dvd. any ideas why 480x360 has problems?
I'm a big fan of diggnation http://revision3.com/diggnation/2005-11-17/media However, they are using the Apple h264 codec format with file extension m4v These files won't play in my dvp642, will a firmware upgrade provide compatibility for this format? If so, where can I download that. If not, how do we get in touch with Phillips to get them to include it in a new firmware update? Thanks
The DVP642 doesn't have enough brainpower to handle h264 and neither does any other stand alone dvd player right now.
Snake A5 To turn off progressive scan, turn on your machine, open the tray and hit the #1 on your remote...That should do it, if not, lemme know and i can map out the keys you need to hit on your remote for you. BB
I have a simple question: I burned a small AVI file onto a DVD disk thinking I should be able to add other movies to it later. However, when I burned another movie it wasn't showing up in the player's menu, the only file showing there was the first file I burned. The player is not seeing the second movie. I took it to my computer's DVD player and it was able to play both movies without any problems. Any reason for that happening?
Hello..remarx33..What PROGRAM DID U USE TO BURN..assumeing u used nero..did u burn it in DVD-ROM[ISO].If yes then the 1st file would have to be started at-> start multisession disc..from their u can continue to add to the disc..at continue multisession disc
Just a heads up for all U Philips DVP642 lovers...COMPUSA is carrying these units right now..here in Tampa anyway they're 60 bucks + tx..But the best part is U can get a 4yr replace contract for 20 bucks..So I think thats good for this unit,even though U might have to give it up foe a couple O wks. while they figure it out..But 4yrs WOW..Oh well I guess they'll smarten up soon enough I had to take my L G back to circuit city,the Riteks & Ty's printed surface Discs would not load or eject properly,hung up..So i stopped in at COMPUSA & SAW THE PHILIPS units..They had another unit US LOGIC Divx player for 60 bucks so i thought I'd give it a try.Along with the 4 yr contract for 20 bucks..I tried all formats DVD Disc,AVI,Mpeg all worked.Tried all Disc DVD -R&RW +R&RW Cds VCD SVCD..EVERYTHING WORKS fine.Nice little no bells unit for the price Well for now that covers my 3 areas with players.But I'm bettin the Philips goes out 1st,at least according to all the reading in this forum..Good Luck all !! HAPPY Holiday season, & many thank for all the positive & negative thoughts contributed here,cause without one,you can't have the other
Whenever I play some xvids of smallville, there is about a .25 second delay between the audio and video... however when I play the file on a PC there is no delay, it's perfectly in synch.. the delay only happens when I play the file on my DVP642.. I found the firmware update CD, would that help? Also, I'm disappointed that there are no stand alone players on the market that will play h264.. it seems to me that the engineers of these products should have had the foresight to put in a processor slightly beefier than the bare minimum required for the existing divx and xvid mpeg4 standards... didn't they realize h264 was coming out a year or two later? or something like it? still mpeg4, just more complicated, right? I still think a firmware upgrade should do the trick.. amazing things have been done with software that bring out more power from older processors than what was originally intended/imagined.. let's have some faith and try to push them to do it even if they say they can't right now.. I wouldn't be surprised if in 5 years someone writes a hack firmware upgrade for this unit that will support h264 and whatever other codecs come into existence at that time. <--- I don't like to take no for an answer very easily. There is always another way or some workaround. I don't care if I have to cut open the unit and hard wire something to overclock the processor, if that is an option I'm all for it. I'll add in water cooling too if needed.
hello..hax0r77 the audio was probably not made carefully enough... The quick & easy fix is to re-interleave your AVI, using: probably NanDub would be best http://prdownloads.sourceforge.net/ndub/nandub-binary-1.0rc2.rar You need to set both audio and video to 'DIRECT STREAM COPY'. Then use Save as AVI [F7]..under FILE to save your new AVI..on a diff drive or diff file on same drive BELOW IS A METHOD FOR OUT OF SYNC AUDIO & VIDEO You cannot SLOW the AUDIO down, instead you must increase or decrease the video framerate. For example, if it is standard 23.976 you could change it to 23.984 There will be a recommended framerate listed, which will allow the audio and the video to finish at the same time (which is what you want But trial & error is the only sure way... Ideally you will read the AVI from one drive, and write the new file to another. If you have only one HD, try to read from one partition and write to another. If you have only one partition, make sure you don't overwrite any files - make a different (destination) folder. By manipulating video framerate and advancing or retarding the start of the audio, there is no messed-up AVI that cannot be fixed, or at least made more watchable. .NET Framework
Thanks Rick, however I'm not the person who originally encoded this file, so all I have is the already compressed .avi file. By using NanDub, as you suggest, using direct stream copy, is there any loss of quality due to re-compression or frame rate adjustment that is done? Is this procedure considered "re-encoding"? If not, what is the term used for this procedure? I'll accept "METHOD FOR CORRECTION OF OUT OF SYNC AUDIO & VIDEO", but it seems a bit wordy, although accurately descriptive. Thanks for the advice on using different hard drives. I would also like to add that it probably would help to defragment both hard drives prior using a product like diskkeeper, but to ensure that it is NOT running during the redubbing.
Hello...hax0r77 As far as quality loss I did see any..& as the rest it should've been pretty well self explanatory,in regards to fixin the out of sync audio..it worked for me..as far as the explanation that was just an original that I cut & paste,I keep it on hand as I do run into problems ever so often,& I've got a shitty memory,& often have to re-read these things the only file so far that gave me that problem was 7 seconds the vocal sounded like static when I tried to play it..So I followed the instructions..as per last post..& whala..had perfect pic & sound..Don't really know if this is classified as re-encodeing or finishig encodeing.Not real good at Techno lingo..but pretty good at trial & error till it works
I have a problem with an avi movie i have, it plays fine on my pc, but no matter what i do, the audio cuts in and out on my dvp642...I know it's not media, burn rate, etc...so that might help narrow it down. I don't pretend to know anything about re-encoding or codecs, so here's my info, hopefully someone knows...I think it's because it's VBR audio, but I might be wrong. I was once before, I think. It's a xvid, 640x272 size, 830kb/s bitrate, FPS 23.967, Qf 0.199 bits/pixel (wtf that is...), Audio stream, according to G-Spot, says 0x0055(MP3)ID'd as MPEG-1 Layer 3...Bitrate 127kb/s (63/ch, stereo)VBR LAME3, Fs 48000 Hz This is the FIRST divx/xvid I have ever had a problem with, ever, on this machine..Again, the video is perfect, and the audio is in sync, but it cuts out like every 2-3 seconds, sometimes gets a 10 second run where it doesn't.. Any help appreciated. BB
Thanks, am trying it now, hopefully doing it right...Will burn it when I get back, see how it goes, as that's the only way to tell what with it working on the PC perfectly...Didn't know if your fix applied to my intermittent problem or just out of sync... Thanks, will let ya know. BB
That worked fine, thanks !@ Quick too, and didn't change the file size...Problem now is my wife is going to watch that flick instead of shovelling the snow when I go to work Thanks again BB
